I love how you make it look so easy, meanwhile I’m dropping washers all over the place, gears are slipping off the shafts, Kickstarter keeps over turning while I’m trying to slip the spring and collar down. This also doesn’t include that once I button the two halves together that none of my sprockets move... I’ve taken it apart/back together 20 times now and the sprockets are jammed tight as hell. If I remove a touch of pressure off the the bolts that hold the halves together then everything moves freely.. very strange behaviour and this isn’t my first build.
Hey man, Great vid! Just had apart my own 125cc Loncin. On the plate you mount on top of the clutch, mine has a bushing and a spring that goes into the ballbearing. Do you now if that is different from different makes? Otherwise, exactly everything looks the same in the engine you've rebuilt and in mine.
Figured I would see if you could possibly help me/ give me any ideas before I tear the 110 I just rebuilt back apart lol, I had checked the gears and kickstart lever as you had shown in the video, and they seemed to have been working properly at that point, but then after mounting the engine and putting the shift lever back on there is zero movement up or down, I more than likely assembled something wrong, but any advice would be great before I split the case again haha, Thanks Kindly and great videos!
Great video. But when is put my engine in neutral I hear a rattling noice coming from the kickstart assembly, when I press it in I don’t hear the noise anymore. Any tips?
The videos are good but fitting the kick start section is rather confusing the case section gets closed the gear selector fitted then further on he is working on the inside of it again with the selector removed can anyone explain ?
Great video helped me understand alot that i didnt exept in my clutch where you put the final plate on where the barring gose i have a button like thing that gose there what is it? And what dose it do
@Anon Ymous clutch works like this: the lever in the case pushes on the big alloy basket, the basket moves towards the engine, so it creates space between clutch plates.
On section 2:24 what is that Allen key bolt for? I NOTICED ONCE TIGHT YOU CAN CLICK IT IN ANY DIRECTION AND IT CLICKS 3 times and it has a strange COPPER washer with a hump on it, but what is the purpose of this 3 clicking for ???
I just finished rebuilding my 125cc engine and after finishing I noticed the engine would only shift gears twice, still haven't filled the engine with motor oil. Can it be that I installed something wrong or maybe that it needs lubrication to turn the other gears?
The lower engine is wider (i think) the crankshaft is bigger, piston and cylinder are bigger, and the cylinder top is "IN SOME CASES" bigger aswell, all around slightly more powerful engine. Correct me if im wrong
Hey man thanks for the videos! I’m following along with your video and I’m trying to get the kick starter set correctly. The shaft seems to move freely but there aren’t any “clicks” when I move the shaft clockwise shown in your video. Any idea of what I may have done wrong?
if there is a large washer on top of the 'shifter star', its to keept the spring loaded arm on the star pattern. sometimes the arm goes ont top of the shifter drum.
Got a problem mate just changed the crank shaft in my lifan 125 put it back together and it's not selecting the gears propply I done every think that you did I think how could I sort this problem thanks for your time
My gears are spinning without an issue until I put the other half of the case on. It went on and screws in no problem but now the gears don't spin or it is really tough to get it to spin with the kick start but then stops. I am able to turn the shift drum to all 5 positions so I am not sure what is causing the bind. Have you had this happen before?
If the gearbox is taking 2 gears at the same time the shafts will stop spinning after half turn or so. probably wrong assembly between gears and washers, or bend shift forks is what your dealing with.
@@wrenchmaster8889 You nailed it man, had too thick of a washer on one shaft! Now it is back together and shifting well. I have about 3mm of lateral play on the output shaft, is that too much??
Hi all just a question I have a manual engine with a starter anyway the starter has failed and I've ripped all the electric out so can't be bothered to fix it any way the left side of the pitbike engine case has a starter mount there and it is blocking the carburettor air filter from going on I was thinking could I get a left side of a pitbike engine and put it on with kick start flywheel and stator plate so the starter mount won't be there in asking as I can't be asked to buy another new engine as this engine is in good condition my engine case is 156 FMI on the left side can I swap the left side with another 125cc left engine side without the fat starter mount on top judging by your engine left case it is very similar
Hi there. Looks like you have 2 options. One is searching a different intake manifold, so your carb and airfilter are higher and go above the elektric starter. Second one is like you say. Swaping the engine cases. But this require a fully rebuild. An other engine is also a solution.
I just recently rebuilt my 125cc after getting everything back together I went step by step from your video I have no compression now and I just can not figure it out I've tryed a hand full of things like timming I've taken the head of 3 times now I'm stuck I was wondering If there was any way it could be the clutch that's giving me now compesion
Hi, the clutch has nothing to do with compression, the things to have compression are: spark plug in the hole, valve play on intake and exhaust valve, and correct timing.
@@Chozenfew73 if the piston rings are really worn out it could cause it, but usually its a leaking valve ir valve play, there are plenty of tutorials of how to setup the valves:)
Alright mate love the videos I have a problem with a 110 cc engine just rebuild the gearbox and selector is sometimes stiff also can’t find neutral soon as I remove the clutch assembly I can find it, could this be a possible cause for clutch basket failure
Is it one down 4 up gear shift pattern transmission? I wonder would it be possible to convert 8t to all 4 forward press type of gear shift pattern? I have same engine but want to convert its gear shift pattern.
@@tomjakl3334 mine was doing in when I was selecting a gear and push the bike forward it would make a clicking sound so yeah it's very important that the kickstart goes at the highest point
When i rebuilded my engine that knut came lose in about 20km, the clutch was stuck but it didnt break anything (in my case) i used a hammer and a screwdriver to tighten the knut but i suggest using the tool if possible by any means
hey man, I've been busy with my clutch for a while because he does not disconnect. I screwed the clutch apart and saw 3 clutch plates. I had to assemble my clutch with the hydraulic press ... is it possible that there is one clutch plate too much between? and that therefore my clutch does not have room to move, so that it is not released? I really hope you can help me!
You must indeed squeeze the clutch together to mount the circlips. I think there are 3 friction plates in it. (not sure and it depends on the type of clutch) To disconnect the clutch you have to make sure that you pull enough on the lever on the outside of the engine. If this does not work, try turning the screw in on the right side of the block behind the plate. www.google.be/search?hl=nl&biw=1920&bih=938&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=QOOfW-3lDMHLwAK5gLaACQ&q=pit+bike+clutch&oq=pit+bike+clutch&gs_l=img.3..35i39k1l2j0i19k1l3.341478.342035.0.342186.3.3.0.0.0.0.59.174.3.3.0....0...1c.1.64.img..0.3.173...0i30i19k1.0.rQFG4k4Hy8U#imgrc=QVjm-kxK61UBvM:
@@wrenchmaster8889 i have now 2 friction plates in it, but when i opened the clutch there was 3 friction plates and 3 metal plates in it. If i mount the 3 plates, is the clutch at the end of the 4 springs. Or is this good?
@robin berkhout. I looked at a very common model and there were 2 friction plates and 2 metal plates. If everything is assembled with the giant c-clips at the end, you have to be able to press the clutch + - 3mm together. ( Next time we could do it in dutch :) .
That clutch casing backside tooth wheel is bad technology my Yamaha had it would break so yamaha redesigned it with a wedged pattern wheel that don't. Break That is why I m Yamaha fan they work hard to make things right