Lol "please pick counter-clockwise" - Bill picks clockwise. "Please don't pull core" - Bill pulls core. "Lock name hints that it contains warding" - Bill still acts surprised when encountering warding... Don't take offense please, I really am only poking fun, I just couldn't help chuckling at all the - err - interesting choices you made doing this one I really like watching the ones you have trouble with because there's more time to watch and learn from your work
Hey, those were RECOMMENDATIONS...;) Besides, the first part of that core would have popped out no matter WHICH way you picked it. Also,my BEST excuse of all: I went to a public school. So there.
Just an idea I had for a 2.0 version of this lock, I would think it would be more effective the further back the split was, just so that the tensioner would have less chance of catching the second core. As for retention, you could try machining out the core a little before and after the split, machining ridges on each core and using a pair of spring steel c retainers, similar to the back of the lock. Food for thought at least, right?
What about cutting some grooves in the cylinder that the driver pins could fall push into to hold the front in place? Have a "ramp" near the top to unset them when the core is relocked or something like that to keep it from binding up.
I love your work. From how you help keep the Locksport community going, the knowledge and wisdom you share with all of the entertainment whilst creating these videos and that's why I'm looking on a way to become part of the tribe.
He could have used pin 2 as a retainer for the front half by putting a ridge all the way around the core that lines up with the pin chamber. If the #2 driver pin rode in that channel, it would prevent you from pulling the front half of the core. It would probably be better to use pin 3 and move the split farther back, or even better, use a 6 or 7 pin core. Interesting idea!
Woah, I'm glad someone did this idea. I've been thinking about making something like this for a couple months but never figured out how or had the tools. Really glad to see it in action.
When you picked first half and removed it you should just shim it because there is no more lip preventing the shimming (put shim up to first pin, then push first pin into shear line then push the shim, and continue second pin etc)
Once the front part of the cylinder is picked and removed, you could also simply shim the back part one pin at a time. Only the front part has the lip that prevents shimming.
Needed a custom core, with a pin spacer where the split is. Then, put a channel on both halves at the join, like the clip channel on the back of the core. Instead of a clip, have a sleeve with ends crimped down to fit in the channels on both channels at the split. Insert core, and the sleeve will allow rotation, and retain the first half of it gets picked first. Recommend a seven pin lock, as you will loose a pin in the security design. As a bonus, the missing pin configuration can mess with the lockpicker.
Great job Bill, Phenomenal lock from K1 locks too. I did a split core and sent it to Bill Bacardi and he text me said it popped the top while picking and then it just fell apart. Lol
To joint both parts of the core, a sliding dovetail joint completed by enlargment of the chambers on the back. That slide might allow the front to move independently from the back, up to a certain point and keep both part together in most positions. (Or a system like the sliding ruler on a tablesaw, both ways could be made from the surfaces facing each other or from the exterior of both half part of the core) Enlargment of back chambers to make sure the front is picked before the back according with tensioning. When the front is moved, 1/6th to 1/8th of a turn, there is no place let for a pick to go in there. I understand the guy who did this 'prototype' had only one Yale. Another prototype could be made from 2 Yales, cut to make sure they make a whole lenght when put together and avoid lost of pin n between.
IDEA: Join the two cores with an I-bar slot cut and fill it with a long deep spool. It would force the first two pins to be picked and then twist, warding the second core. ╠═║═╣
Just came across your channel and i must say great vidoes ive watched quite a few of your older videos already. I don't know if you've made a video of this yet I'm going to keep searching but if you could only have three picks what three would you choose to open most locks? Just something to think about I guess. Hope you have a wonderful day stay safe and keep up the great videos thank you
Ohhh, I've just got a nice idea, machine the core so that picking counter clockwise locks the core together. key will work both ways, but if you tension the front of the core clockwise it will spin independent of the back half.
Interesting idea: 6 pin core split into 3 pcs (2 pins each) first 1/8 turn drops a sidebar into the three pcs letting the tail piece rotate with the rest of the turn. You would have to put a really long tension bar in it and only if you knew thats what you needed before hand
Bob Nips or have the back core (and housing) have a bit larger diameter, so you could add a ridge with that diameter at the back of the front core that would prevent it from popping out. Assembly would have to be done from the back of the lock.
Obligatory LockLab cat hair around 2:30, makes me not feel so bad for depositing stray dog hairs where ever I go! All I kept thinking was "Bill, stop, he said counter clockwise... counter clockwise Bill!" But, Bill is a pro, I trust his judgment. Besides, if i had done everything exactly as instructed, i wouldnt have had near the fun! Awesome job BD90! Ingenuity!
Black Dolphin just hearing the name of that place strikes fear into the souls of many, wouldn't ever wanna be sent there but it's the way Every prison should be run
I think I saw just about every video on this channel, but this one is my favourite to date. Why? A different technique, Bill struggling just a bit extra, and a gutting with a big chance of going wrong going right just by a hair. I predict more split cores in the near future :)
Well done, I believe tallan Pick opened a split core not very long ago and used a long reach tension tool to open it with success! I will look for it and add to this if I can find !
That's a good idea to have a multi section core if it would stay in. Who would think that they have to tension it all the way to the back and then the key would still hold all the sections together would need some kind of ring on the front to hold it in and the ring on the back to hold the back section in and hide the front ring under a cover
Great work but if you enlarge one of the holes in the bible you can place an over-size pin in there that will not fit into the core. Then you can size down the tip of that pin and cut a groove all the way around the core for the tip to rest in and hold the front of the core in place. Of course, this would make gutting this lock extremely difficult (basically requiring you to either remove the top plate or shove a pick up the right hole to disengage the retaining pin). I would also have moved the split further back to make tensioning even more difficult. ;)
What's with the black frame at 17:23? I was expecting a subliminal message, but it's just completely black for one frame. Also, when the front core came out your "field expedient" option could have been to shim the chambers one by one, since there was no shoulder blocking the cylinder anymore.
Nearly impossible to shim when there are serrated pins etc. as the shim will catch in the various grooves, and damage the leading edge of the shim, rendering it unusable
It is where the camera saves one file, then begins another. I have to paste them together and it looks like I missed one of the lead-in black frames. Sorry about that.
Hey Bill, rather than taking out the first half, wouldn't you (in the field) just dump the pins from the first half, then insert it back again, with a pin in the bottom to help tension the back half, and to give you better leverage down the back half? Seems a lot more convenient than having to pick something that deeply recessed...
I like the idea of splitting the core. Built correctly so the front half would stay put, any attempt to pick would only tension the first two pins. Once the front is picked it would turn to block any access to the back. Unpickable?
Nah, I've been thinking about building one of these but once you know it's a split core you could just get a long tensioner that slides down the entire bottom of the keyway. Maybe if I had followed through with the idea when I first had it Bill would have been stumped for an hour or so.
If you put a sleeve between the bible and the core (have seen this before) it could have been shaped such that it could both kept the core parts in the lock as well as maybe to lock up the second half of the core.
Very interesting. With a split core, if you pick the first core, you fall into the trap. Couldn't you use a tensioner that goes all the way to the back, keeping the core together? Kind of like an Everest shotgun. Then you turn it back into a non split core while picking. Just an idea as a possible counter measure to split cores.
Mill a groove in the front half back edge then put a set screw in the side of the bible to line up to the groove will hold it and when bill sees the set screw he will sware it's a trap pin
If this were in a lock that holds the core from the front you'd be pretty screwed. Have to pick it and then realize and repick it with a longer tensioner
Hey Bill, I'm a beginning lock picker and have picked my way through all the master/ ace locks up to "level 10" security. I'm a student so I am challenged monitarily, so I was wondering if you had any challenging locks laying around you could maybe send my way? I would be forever grateful...
Eddie, I'm sorry but I really don't keep stuff "lying around" the lab. Normally, I return the locks to their original owners after picking them. The few that ARE sitting around are temporarily living in my naughty bucket, waiting to be picked.
Could you tell me how to get into a lock trade? Like I said, the only locks I have are master.. I don't think ANYONE wants those. I'm just looking to advance my picking skill. Thanks!
With some redesigns this could be a very interesting way to make an actual lock more pick resistant. Has anything like this, multiple core segments, been seen in the wild?
Robert Szasz, the ultimate version of this is Mauer Millenium Guard. The core is split to protect from breaking the core, and most pins are in the inside half.
Yeah, excellent idea. I would like to see other experimental versions of this idea with a proper core retaining scheme. The ultimate might be a five or six wafer design with each wafer having one pin. This would make tensioning and pin access very difficult.
at one time I thought you would use the key to test every lock to make sure the key would operate the lock? You could do that without looking at the cuts on the key.
hmmmmm? is this a legitimate lock? Really creative split core idea, but would it really work in the real world? Logic Bob has the solution. OR, a spring ball detent in the body, with a groove in the plug??? hmmm
The rules aren't what I'd choose. I'd find more value in developing my skill on legitimate locks that would be in the field. These rules may have value I don't see. But locks who's key barely works with force or that fall apart are hardly locks.
