Exactly what I was thinking! Tho, the CV Earthquake bins were each made with 2 sheets - top and bottom - of 4'x8' plywood or MDF, and used 4x 18" CV drivers. Long ago, in Toronto, there was a club which had a pair of them, driven by Sansui and SAE P500 amps. 😎
this video is literally gold for me as a speaker builder and creator. So many tips and so much to learn from this video and its fun and relaxing to watch!!! Thank you so much xoxoxo 😎
These are cabinets without drivers or wiring. Where are the drivers? What kind of drivers are they getting? Who’s cabinet design is this? What are the end specs?
nice .. good assambeling with a lot of knowledge about wood ..painting in 2 stps very good thinking love this job . strong housings everything nice and useful. not enough for european market but let us talk about little changeins other effective housings line arrays an a few things . if prices can be comared to everything we should get buissnes parners
Sounds like The Chipmonks were doing some other work elsewhere in the shop with that speeded up audio. Also the look like the bass bins used in a local cinema in the days they had just a 10 watt amplifier when it was first converted to sound. They had renewed them but not actually got rid of the bin when it was demolished.
Your designs are clever. Also, you are very good at finishes and building. I'm not a fan of using nails, specially on a box that large. Screws and corner reinforcements would help. Some clamps would be good too in order to assure that the joints are properly seated with no leaks, and the walls seem too thin for such a driver/power handling, even with the reinforcements. For a parallel bandpass, the box volume and the port lenght in relation to the port area seem to short for low bass on an 18 inch driver, so yo can expect a very narrow bandwidth and high frequencies. I would expect around 80 to 120 hertz on the lower response and maybe aroud 300 on the higher, depending on the driver. If you are planning to install the driver on the back of the wall, check for leaks.
Excellent cabinet making skills! The materials, C&C machine time and carpentry is just a matter of spending a little money. The real world sweet spot result to calculate volume for the driver you have arrived at from experience in putting in a bunch of different club systems is requested. What are exact dimensions and what model # drivers were used?
The 18" drivers will probably go down to 20Hz, but the port lengths are too short to reinforce anything below 60? Hz. You will get 2 very loud bumps in the frequency response curve with this design due to the 2 different short port lengths. They will be where most of the low frequency music is from 60 to 120 Hz, but will have a hard time with the lowest notes. That's probably good for a large music reinforcement hall where you could bring down a building and over stress an amplifier with the lowest notes from such a large system.
@@HarmonicResearch I agree lol. I made a 4th order for my 15 inch Rockford Fosgate p3 and it hammered the lows like no other flexed my doors and bumper lol. I made it so the port was adjustable too so u could push it a big further in for those ultra lows. I wanted to make 1 for my 18 inch skar zvx but it would have been over 7.5 cubes n would have been a bit ridiculous it already shattered my drivers side window so I had to sell it it pissed me off so bad lol I regret it now so ill b buying 2 18s next time with 2 rp1500.1dm skar marine amps.
Those are woofers, not subwoofers, classic 6th order but tuned higher, and they will cover a large frequency range but not a low one, they have their uses, pair that box with two monitors that will cover the higher frequencies and it should get pretty loud
You guys must use smaller 18 because a single wall 3/4 won’t hold a real 18 we normally do three layers and they still destroy the box that and ours 18 subs weigh about 200 lbs or 90 kilograms
I like it, but I have to tell you, if I had made this in high school my woodwork teacher would have failed me. No joints, sloppy glue and nail work. He would have given me an F for sure
felicidades se ve genial la construcción de esa caja, seria bueno que subieran algún vídeo para ver que tal suena su acústica!! SALUDOS DESDE ATLIXCO PUEBLA MEXICO
Nothing. Also with improper dimensions, you will get peaks and dips in the frequency response. In short, unless you use proper design, this is just a fancy box.
cuando tenia 14 años , fabricaba cajas acusticas , podrias decirme que parlantes pondras , su resonancia , presion sonora , cantidad de litros de aire?
Tem como você enviar esse projeto pra mim ou me verde esse projeto eu gostei muito dele moro em Macapá Amapá Brasil se você verde ele vou fazer duas caixas vou colocar 4 alto falantes de 18 polegadas de 800 RMS pra fazer um teste quero ver como que vai responder os graves dela
делал саб, на двух 2А-9, КИНАПовских головках, любой корпус разрывало...крепил на болтах М8 и металлический уголок внутри, вырывало болты сквозь фанеру...
What is the advantage of flaring the end of the port like that? It obviously isn't about port noise chuffing, is it about widening the soundstage? How do you think this would work with a car audio enclosure in a car? Bad idea?
Cooles Teil. Nur wie ihr mir den Werkzeug umgeht teilweise ist jenseits von gut und böse. Kaufen sich eine cnc Fräse aber nutzen die billigste oberfräse und jagen die durchs holz ohne anzuhalten wenn der Motor kaum noch dreht. Mit Gefühl. Dann reißen die Kanten nicht so sehr aus und ihr müsst weniger Spachteln.
