1911 barrel fitting - Reaming and polish the chamber 

you probably dont give a damn but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.

@Duke Gatlin Instablaster :)

@Timothy Kamden thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

@Timothy Kamden It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thank you so much, you really help me out !

@Duke Gatlin you are welcome :D

That is just incorrect all the way around. And 9mm is genarally considered low-pressure in most instances. Rough chambers is a pretty common cause for extraction problems, especially in rifles.

Now its customized, you know? 🤣

Wow you must be a genius

I'm guessing by gauges, you mean a 9mm or 45ACP go/no-go gauges?

I use a cartridge to set the headspace and it’s less than minimum.

They are definitely not precise. They only say if safe . They wouldn’t tell u much u didn’t already know

That was a finishing reamer, guess what, it cuts the throat too!

Thank you very much.

@@wolf83-channel friend l want to have 357 sig witness so l have to buy 40 sw slide and 9 mm barrel and 40 sw reamer ??? 357 sig bullet diameter is same as 9 mm but case is 40 sw so , how to make 357 sig case seated in 9 mm champer, what are needed ? 40 sw reamer and gauge sizer 40 cal needed ?

When you put 20 grains of Bullseye behind a 200GR slug I'm not surprised.

thanks

Thank you very much:)

Thank you!

@@wolf83-channelI have a p220 and I hand load cast powder coated bullets. If I seat them a bit long it cuts into the bullet with a sharp edge where it seats on the lip of the cartridge. I’d like to ream it a bit and open up the area there that starts it into the rifling. I wander is something similar would help so I have more flexibility with my loadings. It honestly looks un even when I look at the lip inside

Excellent, Mr. Mota

No

Thank you very much:)

Hi Juan! The reamer I am using is a finishing reamer, that is widening the chamber, sets the depth and the throat in one step. But you have to go slow and measure the chamber depth often, so you don’t over do it and ruin your barrel. Your issue can be several things, do you have this problem with all types of ammo? Or just reloads? Is the issue ejecting live ammo, or fired brass?

the barrel I am trying to fix is a 9mm tanfoglio barrel (if that helps). The issue has been happening with my reloads, they all have been case gauged so they fit the chamber properly. Now and then, very randomly and from a clean gun, brass would stay in the chamber. I have checked the ejector and replaced the ejector spring and this is still happening.I have contacted the local rep for this brand and they said that the chambers in these barrels are very tight and this could be the cause.I have tried 124 gr bullet loaded at 1124 COL and 147 GR at 1090 (which are the maximum my barrel will allow for these bullets) and it has happened with both.My guess is that the chamber is a bit tight so I was thinking of reaming it myself but I am afraid of course of over doing and changing the seating depth.The seating depth should be fine in my barrel so I do not want to modify this, I am just trying to make the circumference within saami specs and perhaps making the throat a little deeper so I can load 147 to 1100/1110 COL but that is it.Thank you very much for your prompt response! Very much appreciate it.

Yes, many of these barrels are a bit tight. A finishing reamer might do the trick. As long as you go slow, no force, you should be pretty safe. But use a good amount of oil and clean often. The reamer will start widen the chamber and throat before it changes the depth, but check the chamber depth often as you go. And give the chamber a good polish when you’re done, this can help both feeding and ejection.

I see, so just I get a better understanding, the seating depth will only change once you are touching the shoulder of the chamber? do these two make contact always from the beginning of the process? or do you do the walls first until you naturally drill through the thickness of the walls and makes the reamer seat lower... I am confused on the mechanics of the process. I watched your video a few to see if I can figure it out, and I see you always measure the depth. I also noticed you go very slow at first and on the second part of the video (close up) you go much faster. Maybe I am over thinking this.

Yes, seating depth will only change after you hit the shoulder. You will first ream the chamber and throat as you go deeper. Since the chamber and throat is slightly cone. Yes, I go slow at first to see how much I am cutting, then a bit faster when I have better control of how fast it cuts down the chamber. This due to various chambers. If you go too fast and and suddenly go too deep, the barrel is ruined.

Thank you very much:)

I suppose that may affect the dynamics on a simple blow-back action, however the 1911 pistol is a locked-breech design utilizing the Browning 'tilting-barrel' lockup. In this configuration extraction doesn't begin until the bullet has left the muzzle and pressure has dropped, meaning the brass doesn't move until the system unlocks. For weapons like this, slide/bolt velocity is unaffected and the polish does nothing more than help ensure reliable feeding and extraction. Sufficient obturation will still take place regardless of surface finish, and you'll notice that many high-end barrels, especially those manufactured for precision rifles and EDC handguns, will come with a mirror finish from the factory. This finish is commonly found on barrels from companies like Wilson Combat (expensive 1911s) and Criterion barrels (precision rifle barrels with hand-lapped rifling and rather exquisite chambers and crowns).

Hold it in place for WHAT ?