I just love to watch your work. Those tools are meet extensions of your hands. Very nice work! Thank you for taking the time to share your talent and knowledge.
Wow! I don’t even have words to describe how awesome this video is. It has certainly inspired me to attempt this on my next build! Thank you for sharing your talent!
~My favorite 1911 is in Black. I can't do the Blending you've done without having it refinished. ~I like watching you work. I learn a lot from just watching and remembering. Plus I save most of your tutorial videos. I wish we were good friends and we were neighbors. ~While you can buy 1911 Pistol with all these fitment details already done for you; you will pay dearly for the custom fitting of parts. ~Being able and willing to do the work yourself, will give you so much fun and your pride of ownership will go way up. At least it does for me.
Right now I’m trying to decide if I should order a quality half round file, OR grab my cellphone and credit card and have this man build me a proper 1911. He has already inspired me to try things I would’ve never attempted. Very grateful!
Remember boys and girls.......this and virtually all of MosinVirus's mods are dome with a set of good files!!! The guy is amazing!!! And, yes, I am green with envy. :) :) Seriously. I am blown away with the obvious quality of his work.
I have said for over a decade that the kids these days can't build shit. While I don't expect them to organically know how to run a mill or lathe, I do expect them to be able too use their hands and every one of them has proven me right, they can't. You on the other hand give this cranky old Marine hope. Well done sir! Your work is outstanding and I hope you inspire others.
I have been shooting 1911s for 40 years, and it's my favorite pistol. I started with the 1911 as an Armorer in the US Army and joined the Army Pistol team for Rack Grade and Composit shooting. I once outshot a guy (standing unsupported) at 50 yards with my composite 1911 with iron sights. he was shooting a scoped 7mm Mag. Rifle. Sadly I had to return my 1911's when the Army got rid of the 1911 and went with the Beretta M9 (yuk), and issued BB Guns for future Pistol shoots, and that's when I finally left the Army, shooting team. I then bought a personal 1911 (cheap) and continued to enjoy shooting it until I finally wore it out just as I was starting to shoot RU-vid videos in 2007. it was just a simple rack grade pistol with nonadjustable sights, but anytime anyone was at the range and having a hard time staying on the paper at 7 yards with (non-1911) pistols, I would take out my rattling 1911 and proceed to shoot better groups at 100 and 200 yards than they would at 7 yards (and really piss them off). Nowadays as a 56-year-old disabled veteran with 18 years of service, the sights are a bit fuzzy for 100 and 200 yards (need a red dot now for that far), but my carry pistol is still a 1911, but this one is a 78-year-old Spanish Star B in 9mm (I prefer 45 ACP) and I really miss my grip safety lol. As a master armorer, I'll never fall out of love with the 1911.... But, I know I'll never be able to afford the quality and perfection of one of your 1911s! I'm truly impressed by your work. I hope that in a few years when I can finally afford a new 1911, I can take what you show here to help improve my next pistol. it's not going to be as nice (I lost 4 fingers 16 years ago) so some things are a bit harder for me when it comes to tools, but if I can take my next 1911 to 50% of what you show in your videos then I'll be satisfied lol. the shooting? well, if I do my part the 1911 will always do it's part and make me look good in the process. you have to try pretty hard not to hit the target with a 1911 (even out to 100 and 200 yards with a bit of practice) My goal, is to convert my next 1911 to 460 Rowland, so I can shoot .45 ACP, 45 ACP +P, 45 Super and .460 Rowland cartridges out of one pistol. this way I can shoot 45 ACP for fun, and .460 Rowland for CCW and for 100 and 200 yard shooting for entertainment and a bit flatter shooting lol. We will see.... you don't join the military to make money, and you don't stay in so long to retire for lots of money, which makes purchasing more challenging. I will say this... for 100 yard shooting, even my 78-year-old Spanish Star B 1911 in 9mm is far more accurate than my stock Desert Eagle in .50 AE at 100 yards. (Note: ammunition was Desert Eagle brand 300 grain vs the cheapest 9mm blaser ammo with aluminum cases). it will be interesting to see how well the Glocks are shooting at nearly 80 years old...
Thank you for your service! And yes, I am in love with 1911s. Agreed, we will need to see how Glocks hold up over a long period, though I don't think we should expect the same endurance out of polymer wonders.
There is no substitute for craftsmanship. My favorite thing about RU-vid is the learning of how to. This is an exemplary example . thanks for sharing. Forever a fan ,Allen
Well done Sir. Holy smokes you are not a bit afraid of a file. It's nice to see filings fly ahead of the file like that. It's nice to see people using their hands and brains to do something like this. God Bless and many X's to you Sir.
@@MosinVirus Range officer. Put a few new parts in it but it really needs front strap checkering, undercut trigger guard, and a grip safety blended along with the back of the slide.
Thank you very much. Glad you liked it. Very little left to be done on this one - checker the rear and blend the magwell. After that I will send it off for a Ion Bond DLC finish.
Thanks so very much for the series of what I personally can say are , by far , the most informative and lucid of the many videos I have watched since purchasing my Springfield Loaded 1911 A1 Stainless . Well Done ! ( or, as we said in my Navy : " Bravo Zulu " ! >)
You always impress me with continual improvement in your processes. That being said, I understand why you break the edges on the frame backstrap, but I think it looks absolutely amazing when it's flush with the sharp edges. Keep up the good work! I try to watch every video you put out
thejohnnybob thank you. Those edges had a burr left over, so it needed to be removed, but I know what you mean about wanting to get that seamless fit all around.
Is it just me or is that slide to frame fit insanely good? I’ve seen good slide to frame fits but you can’t even see where the frame rails meet the slide rails below the ejector cut! That slide to frame fit looks better than anything I’ve ever seen.
@@MosinVirus I watched that first and now I'm going down your whole catalogue of videos. Absolutely outstanding work. Can't wait to see new videos after your house remodel is complete!
I don't like the added bump low down on the beavertail that isn't on a GI grip safety. I ordered a replacement beavertail and just ground that bump off and made it the same as the GI pattern in that area. Makes the pistol fit than much nicer to my hand.
It is a completely personal preference. All depends on how much of engagement you have between the trigger and grip safety and how much pressure/movement you want to disengage the safety. The bump is there to ensure full disengagement every time. In some cases the bump is level with the MSH. On one of my builds I think I actually blended the bump with the MSH. It may have been Build 6 (RMR)
@@MosinVirus For my hand and grip I don't need the bump at all so I removed it completely. (Saved the original beavertail, to go back to it if I want.) I also prefer an arched mainspring housing. It's what fits me.
Amazing work as always. Do you inherently enjoy the tedium of doing these kinds of jobs or do you have to push yourself through them? I'm curious because I don't think nk I'd ever has the patience to do this right.
Because I'm customizing my Kimber Pro-Carry II (I'm fitting parts to the frame & slide, but mot the frame or slide themselves), and this video looked ju*ad*st like what I was do*ad*ing. However, *ad* I didn't get very far in*ad*to the video *ad*, if you know what I *ad*
Игорь, приветствую. Да, внимание к деталям - ваш конёк, совершенно верно подмечено. Классная работа, как всегда! А у меня вот какой вопрос возник. Крупные, средние и, по большей части, даже мелкие опилки после слесарки можно смести щёткой, сдуть и т.п. Но при работе детали сильно намагничиваются (что говорит, в т.ч., о высоком качестве материала). Используете ли вы какой-либо размагничиватель? Как избавляетесь от остатков мелкой стружки и металлической пыли? Я, например, после полировки поверхности пастой ГОИ для удаления её остатков и продуктов обработки мою детали в ультразвуке. Есть у меня небольшая китайская ультразвуковая ванна на 50 ватт. В саму ванну наливаю очень тёплой воды чуть выше половины и в воду ставлю ёмкость с деталью, залитой керосином. 2 раза по 10 минут - всё чисто! Керосин подогревается и за счёт температуры воды, которая налита в ванну, и за счёт воздействия ультразвука. Его проникающая способность становится ещё выше, и он отделяет от поверхности детали практически любые частицы.
Очень хорошая идея. Я то все делаю в комнате, и думаю жена будет против ванн с керосином. Сейчас я просто беру щеточки, и мою под горячей водой с мылом. Успевает немного потемнеть, если не нержавейка, но я потом все равно пескоструем буду обрабатывать... сильно горячая вода нагревает часть так что остатки воды быстро испаряются и я их в большей части выдуваю сразу после мойки
Н-да, в помещении, тем паче - дома, с керосином особо не поработаешь... Я когда после тира чищусь, так моя ненаглядная за запах баллистола меня ещё и на следующий день "допиливает"...))))) Игорь, а ведь было у вас видео, где вы на улице работали, дюраль анодировали, если не путаю... Туда же ёмкость с керосином и ванну вынести да и помыть детальки. На всё - про всё времени с полчаса потратите, вряд ли больше... Очень, всё же, советую вам попробовать ультразвуковую мойку. Пусть даже горячей водой с мылом (а лучше, думаю, с какими-либо ПАВами типа средств для мытья посуды). Трудозатраты существенно меньше будут... Кстати, касаемо самих моек. Думаю, не надо вам говорить, что не стОит брать фирменные. Ну, там RCBS, Хорнади и прочее. Понты - оне, канешна, дороже денег. Но любая "фирменная" мойка - это будет тот же самый китай, только с лейбаком и втридорога. У хорнадиевской, например, точно есть близнец - китаец (не вспомню, к сожалению, название, но картинку на Ганзе (guns.ru) видел). Проще говоря - найдите на том же Али примерно литрового объёма любую китайческую. Или на И-бее, что вам ещё проще будет. Обойдётся она вам "дешевле грязи", так что даже если не пригодится, то и жалко не будет.
can you please list the maker and such of the jig you used that fit inside the trigger channel to load tension on the beavertail? Looks simple enough - did you make this or is there a place to purchase such an item? I've used other methods in the past, but this seems like the perfect jig/tool because of the adjustable nature of the setup.
Hello. I actually went with IonBond finish on Build 10. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dbShLKSnoB8.html. My Build 9 was cerakoted. See it at around five and a half minutes into this video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-usiXh_DFMf0.html
Shouldn’t have filed the back of the slide, rather the link stop in the barrel to line them up. Just a couple strokes with a round file would’ve lined them up.
@@mikef1949 you want some roughness if coating. Something for finish to grab onto. What you don't want is deep scratches or scratches going in different directions. When you go from filing to sandpaper try to change stroke direction 90°. That will show you deep scratches from previous passes, on the same grit turn stroke direction 90° again. That will show you consistency. With next grit up do the same. Etc. 400 is plenty smooth and could actually be too smooth for cerakote. I am not a cerakote guy so I don't know for sure.
Hi, again!! All this laborious art work about fiting the parts, makes me remember about the hand fiting work germans puted in their Luger pistols, some of wich were send to our armed forces here in Portugal before and after the Republic. I got a question that you know well: does the files you use for the frame front and back checkering are specific files for such? On it can be done with other more common file?? This maybe a silly questions, sorry but I'm very greeny. Again thanks in advance!! Good week end.
Checkering files are very different. They have perfect rows of triangular teeth. If you looked down the file you would see this pattern /\/\/\/\/\. They make those files in different lines (rows of teeth) per inch. The triangular teeth are 60° and multiple lines are cut simultaneously. Because the teeth are in rows it is also the reason the file wants to follow the lines already cut. But checkering can also be done without one of those files with careful measuring and then using a 60° V file. Each line would need to be cut by hand. Watch my Build 8 checkering video, and also my Beretta 92 checkering video for example of using a V file.
sorryociffer EGW beavertail and VytamenC 80% series 80 frame. As far as I know only series 80 frames (as far as 80% frames go) come with a lot of meat at the tangs (so the thumb safety pin hole is not right on the edge of the undercut). And I am not building as a series 80. I am using a TJ's conversion shim to fill up the series 80 space and build the frame as series 70. The .065" shim works best with these frames. Brownells has the shims in stock last I checked.
MosinVirus okay thanks, probably need to do this to my new GI spec. Need to replace the stock grip safety with a Wilson Combat piece because of irritation to my hand.
Not sure, I haven't tried all the options. I believe Caspian uses .250 radius. And both Ed Brown and Wilson are good choices. I try to go for a seamless fit so EGW (.245 radius) and Harrison Design (.240 radius) give enough room to accomplish that if the tangs of the frame are slightly overcut.
@@MosinVirus Thanks man, and thanks for the interaction. Your channel is fantastic, and the fact that you take the time to reply is phenomenal. I appreciate all of the time you put into this.
I don't have one. What kind of work does it need? I mean I wouldn't be able to work on yours anyway (lack of needed licensing for that) but asking out of curiosity.
MosinVirus No I don't have one either, but the design has always piqued my interest. I'd just love to see what you could do with one. The gun strikes my fancy because it's also a large steel frame that I believe to be superior to the 1911 but because of history did not take off more than it did. I bet you could make an absolutely gorgeous gun out of one.
MosinVirus More to the fact, it's just something else different enough and no one to my knowledge has ever really done anything custom with one. And the design is ripe for modification.
MosinVirus True, but I bet most are pretty beat up anyways. And would be cheaper. And it would be essentially a totally unique job and offering if you ever picked one up to work on hint hint please do this.
what grits of sandpaper did you use after the rough half round file? Also do you have suggestions on sandpaper? I purchased some sanding sticks from everglades ammo and some Grizzley PSA backed sandpaper so I can attach it to things.
I primarily use 120 and 220. Reason I don't usually go higher is because the finish will be bead blasted, and on simpler to see shapes, 220 will show the condition of the surface (waves, scratches) sufficiently. For harder to evaluate shapes (like the months of Magwells, I go higher in grit. The surface imperfections become more apparent that way. And this is only because I don't have a media cabinet. If I had one, a quick blast would produce a mat uniform surface that will highlight imperfections. I get my sandpaper at a local hardware store (HomeDepot). Because I am not polishing I don't need great sandpaper.
Thank you. I didn't get into making RU-vid videos as a source of income, but it dis help. I don't think I am at the point where I need an assist yet. The comment in the description is more about their incorrect views on things.
Armchair critic looking for attention. Other than an end user having the ability to bend stainless with the webbing between thumb and forefinger, at what point would the thickness matter?
