You do some incredible work and you are very talented. Keep it up, I enjoy watching you turn basic 1911's into functioning works of art! I also use your videos as instructions when I want to fancy-up my builds, so thanks again for all of your videos as they are very helpful.
Thank you. It is not difficult but it is time consuming. And trying to impose your will onto the file as it is guided by already cut lines is not a good idea. Other than that just let the file tell you where it wants to go and you listen (assuming the starting lines were cut correctly) and all it will take is time.
Your file skills have always amazed me, I think I do pretty well until I watch you and see how many parts you sculpt with only a file. Getting those first vertical lines are tough on the hands aren’t they!
Thank you. Yes, holding the file by the teeth is never pleasant. That is why I put on some gloves. Still got a massive blister. I will be posting a video of the undercut later tonight probably.
~Oh boy, more tools I must have. I am an Amerature Gunsmith and a Tool Junkie. I must now try checkering. ~My wife does not know anything about your Channel or how you have enabled me to become a much better Amature Gunsmith and I thank you much.
Mosin, Great work as always. I practiced on a couple of mainspring housings and like you I did not see the need to use the single line file. I do use the single line file to clean up serrations on the old style GI pieces. Keep the videos coming. Thanks for sharing, Randy
Wow! Amazing work! I found this looking up videos to see if this was something I could do myself and I find a video of a master craftsman at work lol! Beautiful work!!!
Good file work. Watching your video's have inspired me to do some work on some of my 1911s I have always thought a mill was needed for most metal working operations. I have one question. Where did you get your checkering guide at? It looks a lot better than the one brownells sells. Keep up the good work
I'm not sure if you're familiar with the show, but it just hit me, your channel is the gunsmithing equivalent of The Woodwright's Shop with Roy Underhill
Hi! 1st of all, thanks for this video. Now please I'd like to know your true opinion about this: can the checkering could be made in a aluminum or zamac frame? If so, how do you recomend to do it? This stupid question has a reason to be: as I can not own a real 1911 in this country I'm in, I must get along with replicas. Silly but truth. Hence this question... 1000 thanks in advance, and please keep teaching us, you got the knowledge and skils of a surgeon.
I bought a pre checkered piece and welded it n on my 1911. it look awesome and you cant see that it is a welded in piece. I did not dare to try to checker it with a file, next time I will try.
It sounds like you are not easing the preasure on the back stroke is this jusy the audio or do you keep preasure on both strokes? Thanks again for your time to make these informative videos
Oh, no. I absolutely ease up on the back draw. The camera has a very sensitive mic. That is why it picks up everything, and sometimes makes it sound like I drag the file hard.
Hey Mosin, been rewatching your checkering videos as I'm thinking of finally trying it myself on my 92FS. Man, this looks way easier than cutting line-by-line with a V-file. The 92FS has vertical lines cut on it already, so it's as easy as running a checkering file like this horizontally, is that right? My goal would be to replicate the checkering found on the M9A1/M9A3. Would a Brownells checkering file work for most any gun's front & backstrap? For example, the curvature on the straps of a 92FS and 1911 are very different, would that matter? I assume using copper wire as a jig helps. Speaking of jigs, do you think one would be needed for the 92FS?
Hi, yes horizontal lines can be added using a checkering file from Brownells. The problem with using that file is the curved front and rear sections. Curved areas pose a problem even when using milling machines. A lot more setup would be required to continue checkering into curves. That is why you usually see it applied to straight sections. Plus, I don't think it would look right in concave or convex areas because you couldn't keep the lines parallel to each other. You would essentially see () or )( happening. It was very difficult to maintain consistency with a single point file and would be impossible with a checkering file on concave surfaces.
@@MosinVirus Ahh, I see, so there was a reason you went line-by-line with a single point file for that first Beretta video, makes sense. Well, this is gonna be harder than anticipated, but I'm still willing to try it. I believe I found the same 60 degree V-file you used on Brownells. Wish me luck, I THINK I know what I'm getting myself into lolol. Thanks Mosin.
@@lon242 yes, the duller the angle the shallower the cut between any two points. As for coarseness, the finer the file the longer it will take to remove material, though finer files leave better cut finish.
I have a parkerized firearm in which I am considering a gunsmith to do a front checkering. I probably will need him to also re parkerize the surface once he's done won't I?
I notice that you have your company name and serial no (presumably) stamped into each lower. Where did you have this done, or do you do it yourself? And, lastly, would you contemplate a series on .40 S&W, or is it too much like a .45 ACP? Thanks in advance for your response.
Even before CA mandated builders to pretend to be manufacturers and serialize their builds I did it voluntarily because I wanted to be able to report my guns stolen if, God forbid, that happens. I went to a local laser engraver and engraved the necessary lines to a depth of 0.020". It is a fast and really cool process. Aas done right in front of me. As for new builds, CA made it impossible to build semi automatic handguns. However I would be able to caliber convert. The reason I wouldn't do a .40S&W is that I don't have anything else in that caliber, but building a .40 is no different than any other non-45acp caliber in a 1911. Basically some specific parts.
Please correct my ignorance if I'm wrong but I thought files were only meant to be used in one direction to get the cleanest surface and edges? This looks great so maybe I'm wrong but I was curious.
@@MosinVirus Okay cool. I thought so. I couldn't tell if you were using one forward stroke or a back and forth and I was just thinking about it. Great video either way and great work!
@@Yomom12388 no, you noticed it correctly. I choose to not use the files properly. I don't lift off completely, but I do not apply pressure as I move the file rearward.
I was wondering is there any way of filing your checkering at a 45 degree angle instead of 90 degrees thank you for your time and effort really do appreciate your work and effort
If I made up a fixture with a 45 degree face instead of a 90 degree face it would be very doable. Perhaps I will do that in the future. I know they have checkering jigs with that angle.
@@whit1967 The one I have has been discontinued a while ago. It can be made , and there are other variations of checkering guides available on Brownells and MidwayUSA websites.
It is actually the file that does it. Checkering files have straight rows of teeth, so once you get a file lines started using a guide, it becomes difficult to "get out" of those lines. The file wants to continue to ride in the grooves, cutting them deeper and deeper until it bottoms out on the tops of remaining material.
Recently came across your videos and im very happy i did, super clear anf interesting videos thank you for uploading these, how did you learn these skills?
@@MosinVirus thank you for the reply, im looking to start a 1911 project in the near future, ive been binge watching all your 1911 videos, thanks for the content, and for the tools video especially, very helpful
@@JM-jb5cb it is my pleasure. Stop by Full 30 forum if you want to post your project, ask me questions, etc. I have a section there under Meet Our Producers. forum.full30.com/c/meet-our-producers/mosinvirus
It takes me under 4 hours to undercut and checker the front strap. If I am checkering rear of MSH as well, total time is about 5 hours. At first a guide should be used to follow while cutting the first few lines, afterwards the file uses those cut lines to guide itself. All teeth on a checkering file are on rows.
Short answer is yes, but you have to be really familiar with files and get a jig with a 45° edge. Brownells sells these now. With 45 degree checkering it will produce "diamond" pattern. I haven't tried it myself yet, but will in the future.
About what is the cost (cheapest you could manage)? I've chewed my AR 80% builds down to around $275... I'd like to try an 1911, but would like to be around the $300 mark or lower - is this possible? With the AR, I can usually get the lower and upper for around $40 (together), but every 1911 frame (80%) I see is usually over $100 and the slide is often more (minus barrel, etc.).
If you discount the price of tools, and get some parts for free or really cheap at shows, etc., maybe. But unlikely. I have not tried to focus on the cost aspect.
shootgp The cheapest I have paid to build a 1911 was about $650 complete. But, dont settle for cheap parts because they will not fit good or have to be replaced.
My friend, I congratulate you on your work. They are excellent. I ask you, would you be so kind as to text me the exact size and file of the file you use to carry out this work? thank you very much.
Не знаю точно как на заводах в массовом производстве делают, но думаю что так-же как и по одной на станке. Вот например: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XBCVfa91-E.html
MosinVirus по моему глубокому убеждению 1911 самый красивый пистолет, но мощный для средней руки (хотя это на любителя, в какой-то мере и мне .45 ACP по душе). И вот недавно на Ютюб я увидел Беби рок от Рок Исланд под 9х19... Влюбился!!! А ещё очень нравится CZ 83. Про любовь это конечно аллегория)) , но.. но примерно 5-6 моделей мне по сердцу.
To each their own, of course, but I like aggressive texturing. That one was actually very comfortable to everyone that tried it. What LPI have you tried or do you not like all of them?
I don't know what others charge for this, and I am not licensed to receive guns by mail, but the few times I did this at other people's workshops (with the owners present) i charged $200 for trigger guard undercut, front strap checkering and rear strap checkering. It usually takes me 4 hours
It takes me about 4 hours to produce the trigger guard undercut and checker the front strap. Another hour or so for rear strap if it is straight (not arched). It all kind of depends on vice height, lighting, and LPI.
@@czts4778 I personally don't know anyone that deals with CZs, and you probably want someone who specializes in CZs so the setup will be shorter. Try asking on one of the CZ forums.
@@MosinVirus You probably already know this but 25 lpi checkering files are super expensive compared to 20 or 30 lpi. If you had to pick between 20 or 30 what would you pick?
@@ogsniper743 depends on how you like your grips - aggressive or more comfortable. Many people find 20 LPI too aggressive. However, you can knock down the tips of 20 LPI pyramids to make it less aggressive. I personally prefer 20 LPI.
@@MosinVirus When you checker something does the Lpi of the file make it any easier or more difficult to pull off? I would think the higher the lpi the easier it would be to screw up since there's way more lines and there not as deep??? Have you noticed anything like that with all of your experience???
@@ogsniper743 the shallower the lines the easier it is to mess up, so yes, with finer LPI it gets more difficult to keep the file in the existing lines. But with shallower lines less material is removed so in a way it is faster.
The LPI is the same on both sides, but the lines may be positioned differently between the sides. For example, one side may have a half tooth on the left and the other on the right. When cutting horizontals I stick to one side of the file for that reason. The other thing I noticed is that the files are not always perfectly flat. Sometimes they are slightly bent. This matters when cutting verticals. And using both sides will make up for that.
It depends on your level of control of the file. Doing horizontal lines first makes it easier to do vertical lines because there is less material to remove, but because you are effectively gliding the file across horizontal lines it can get a bit "jumpy". So you could cut some shallow starting vertical lines in the middle of the strap, then do horizontals, and then the file will still "find" those shallow vertical files from before. But generally, you use more of the file on smaller surface when doing horizontal, and then less of the file on larger surface when doing verticals, so horizontal lines first helps me a lot.
@@MosinVirus ok thanks. Do you know anything about checkering a frame that's been parkerized. I can't find very much info and I don't really see anybody doing it. Maybe because it's a bad idea? I don't know. Do you think I could checker the front strap and then re-parkerize it? I don't know if the checkering will take the color. I see things like grip safety's that been checkered and either blued, parkerized or painted and it looks good and seems fairly durable. What is your professional opinion???
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 i like parkerizing a lot. It holds oil really well. Which is also the reason you would want to strip all old parkerizing (by sandblasting) before parkerizing again. You can checker the front strap and use cold blue the section, but it will stand out and will not be as good as parkerizing. I posted a video about parkerizing at home when I was building my "Exfoliator" (Build 8)
