I've been working on 1911's for 50 years. I've never known anyone to take to something like you have. Great work sir. I've watched you from the beginning and you've done expert work with only a file. Hat off to you!
Thank you. You should check out my Build 8 and Build 4 videos if you liked this one. And then take a look at the Beretta 92 conversion. ;) this pistol shoots very well. I think I have a video with me shooting it up here on RU-vid.
It takes a lot of Nerve to attempt what you are doing without a milling machine !! You are like me, adapt and make due with the tooling at your disposal !! There is more than one way to skin a cat !! Beautiful Work !!
+Gerry K Thank you. Indeed there are many ways to proceed. I almost wish I didn't try to use the drill press. If I went by hand the entire way, I am sure I could have not had that much of a gap in the back.
+MosinVirus The drill press would have been fine for those areas you were 100% certain of !! Always creep to the critical dimensions !! PS: It Doesn't Look That Bad !! However, you like me appreciate Perfection !!
+Gerry K not with my drill press. I need to take a look at it again. I bought cheap, and now with replacement parts it costs as much as a better press would cost, while it is still not as good.
+MosinVirus I always say it's worth the money to buy Quality up front !! Recently I've Not Heeded My Own Creed !! Grips for my 1911, cleaning rods and more.
Little gasket sealed in on the back end will make it beautiful...or ...skip it entirely. Should affect the function...either way that's a beauty....God bless and keep up the good work. You're doing well and keeping them hands busy.....idle hands.....idle hands .
Thank you very much. It does work just fine. And yes, I am trying to stay busy all the time. Still working on the house at the moment. Merry Christmas!
+Chris Park Yes, it is very interesting. Seeing how it is made makes me wonder how the baffles are setup in barrels with longer ribs and more ports toward the back of the barrel.
Thank you. I have a few 1911 build playlists you will probably like. If you click on the channel name and then go to playlists it will be easier to watch the series.
You did a nice job by hand that everyone else uses a mill for. I`m always impressed and inspired by your work. If you get a new barrel for this project with a little longer compensator area you can make it fit perfectly. Then use this barrel for a different project. I`m not sure why your drilling efforts did`t work but just a little advise for drilling holes in stainless steel. Run the drill bit as slow as your drill press will go and use plenty of cutting oil. Running a bit a high RPM in stainless will do nothing but burn it up. I use to drill hundreds of holes every week in stainless for my job and while others were burning up bits, mine seemed to last forever. PEACE, AJ
+TWISTEDSTRINGS69 Thank you. I think the problem was that my drill press is not as solid as it should be, the vise was sliding around on the non-flat base (cheap press), and the vibration plus flexing made the bit simply jump around which is why I ended up with gashes around the pilot hole. Then it would simply not bite down and continue to flex away.
Since I see that you already have a chamber reamer for seating head space, I might suggest that you take off a few thousands off of your hood to slide difference, This will tighten your gap (but keep some gap, you don't the barrel slamming against the slide returning to battery.) Then check and adjust head space, then you can do you frame to barrel fit using all of the parts that will go on the build. Just a thought. I've never done a raised port like this, only cut ports. Also it appears that the radius on the port and slide are equal, changing that will seat it back.
at this point, when the hood is fitted, the locking lugs lockup. there is no way to move the barrel back. shortening the hood will only create a gap at the breach face.
Anyone who comes across this and wants to drill into steel, you need to drill very slowly put the drill press on the lowest RPM and use a lot of oil on a drill bit. His drill press was set on high RPM and he burned the drill bit.
👍Nice work as always. Did you drill your center punches with a small pilot bit first? Like a 3/32". Drilling on a rounded surface is tough without everything rigidly fixed as I'm sure you found out.🙂
Тема необычная и редкая, во всяком случае первый раз увидел на твоём канале, тем немение находятся дизлайкеры)) Да по большому счету тема любого твоего видео оригинальная. Чесно!
I'll make a couple suggestions for you. In the trade we used dykem, but you can also use a felt tip marker on the area you are going to scribe with your calipers - this way you won't need to scratch the surface deeply and can still see the line. Clean up with alcohol. Your attempt to drill the 3/8 holes in one shot was your problem. Start with a drill around 1/8" then 1/4" then 5/16" then 23/64" leaving 1/64" for cleanup with the dremel tool. If you had a milling machine available you would still drill the holes and then plunge cut the material out between the holes. To get square corners you would use a small dia. endmill and finish it off. If you also work on AR-15 or any rifle with bullet buttons be sure to check out our ThumBee at www.thumbee.net
I can't find the brand I used to use on the store website where I originally bought mine. But it wasn't a Dremel brand. What I finally bought is a Foredom. This is the one I have now. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032OTXO0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the best rotary tool, and I got lucky and found 5 handpieces on Ebay dirt cheap.
Seriously...I am in awe of your ingenuity and skill! I only found your channel today, and have already watched several of your videos. I have always wanted to do some of the things you have done in your builds, but have been too worried about destroying my pistol(s). I have never seen this particular modification done, and is way out of my skill set...but, you have given me some confidence that I may be able to tackle a round butt mod... so Thank You!
Invest in a good set of high speed cobalt drill bits. They would have ate threw like butter. Just a suggestion. Great work by the way if you never try you can never learn and succeed.
the barrel is stainless, the slide and frame and all other parts are carbon steel. the pictures I gave you links for are of this pistol finished with parkerizing.
Разметка на плите, которую вы показываете в этом ролике, делается штанген-рейсмусом на той же плите. При вашем наборе оснастки, объёме и уровне выполняемых работ пора бы им обзавестись...)))))
+Николай Маслов В техническом смысле? В стволе, под отверстиями находятся выточенные пазы, образуя мембраны по всей окружности. При выстреле, пороховые газы следующие и толкающие пулю ударяются в мембраны, тем самым уменьшая отдачу, так как они создают противодействуещее влияние, тоесть толкают вперед. При этом, отверстия сверху позволяют тем же газам выйти вверх в тоже время как они всё еще оказывают давление вниз, помогая противодействовать скачку дула и всего пистолета вверх при отдаче. А если хотите посмотреть на стрельбу, то вот видео. Тяжело увидеть разницу, так как я не подгонял другой ствол в этот пистолет, но поверьте, помогает :ru-vid.com?o=U&video_id=hhejYDbKAOM
MosinVirus have you tried doing another ribbed barrel with your mini mill? I follow your videos pretty closely. You helped me before with fitting a cone comp to a replacement slide for my open gun.
Pistols at Dawn no, I had another ribbed and ported Schuemann barrel but I gave it away as a birthday present to a friend. It would be much easier to do with a mill.
nice lookin ! even if its a bit off there ,but your known to use a file fore some drastic designs so... i belive you will come up with somthing that makes it look cool!
Привет! Это компенсатор + стабилизатор ствола (минимизировать отклонения). Правильно понял? 😉Я тут над смыслом перевода твоего ника размышлял. Вирус Мосина, типа как оружейная болезнь)) да? А я тебя Мосин, Мосин:))
with bull barrels you use a reverse spring plug. The reverse spring plug is inserted from the inside of the slide, and is retained from going forward by either a step in its diameter (collar style) or a ledge (hat style). I have a video on installing a hat style reverse plug.
+filipe silva there are two types of reverse plugs. one is a sleeve kind, where at the back the outer diameter of the spring plug is a little wider. The slide's spring plug tunnel needs to be reamed at the rear end to allow the sleeve to fit. The other kind is a hat or flange style. this one has a flange going around the rear end, like a hat of the screw. The rear of the slide's spring plug tunnel needs to be cut off just the same amount as the width of that hat on the plug. Basically, the hat will make up the removed material.
Ok, "I don't have a mill, so I'll just use my hacksaw." What you didn't show was the greatest job of hacksawing in the history of hacksawing. You're messing with us. About that gap, it's not noticeable. What I want to know is how you mounted a front sight on it.
+Mike Melina Hacksawing was actually pretty easy. I filed the Novak slot into the rib, just like I did on the slide in build 2. Also not too difficult. Just have to be careful and stay flat and square with the file.
Awesome. We hope you video things you haven't included in other builds, like the fire control fitting/installation and trigger job, final finishing...stuff like that.
+Mike Melina thank you. This is exactly the type of feedback I need. If you think of anything else I could show, please let me know. I will try to make vids as requested.
you must be a surgeon with those steady hands man... I can't wait to try this... I'll get several slides so I can mess up lol.. have you ever messed up a slide?
