1911 Link, Lower lug, Vertical Impact Surface, Barrel Bed Interaction

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HARRISON DESIGN & CONSULTING TRUE RADIUS PRO SEAR JIG | snp.link/5232281d
ED BROWN 1911 SEAR JIG | snp.link/293938b6
NORTON 6" X 1/2" X 1/2" INDIA STONE | snp.link/3cdeb22e
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BROWNELLS 1911 ANODIZED BUSHING WRENCH | snp.link/5218f3d6
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22 июн 2013

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Комментарии : 90

@bodeine454 4 года назад

So John Browning figured all this out in his barn, I mean his shop over a hundred years ago huh? 🤔 😳 🕶

@nobearsyet 11 лет назад

That was probably the best and most in depth explanation of what a link does and how a barrel is supposed to fit I have ever seen. And I went to Gunsmithing school

@wd2901 2 года назад

Finally a video explaining the lower lug fitment that I can totally understand. Great job On this video!

@sedlocknload9394 5 лет назад

My man you just saved me hours of filing had problems with my new barrel not releasing from the slide. Found out it was the bottom the V.I.S getting caught on the pin. Glad I watched your video!

@tankerd1847 2 года назад

Excellent video dude. I just put a new barrel in my 1911 and this helped confirm I have the right barrel link, I also understand how this weapon works so much more now. I appreciate it!

@adonikam1 Год назад

9 year late comment. EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT VIDEO!! THANK YOU!

@Bentnutt 10 лет назад

You are so pathetically patient and thorough. Thank you so much.. Molon Labe ..

@jayphilipwilliams 10 лет назад

Thanks. I appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed the video!

@john90430 4 года назад

Yes, it is all rather complex. The barrel needs to pull down far enough to disengage the top lugs from the slide, yet rise far enough in battery to sufficiently engage the lugs far enough into the slide. As for which surface is best to arrest the rearward motion of the barrel, one can imagine the link being put in tension if the underside of the barrel hitting the bed is what stops it. The link is unlikely to "stretch" but will more likely will break. When that happens, the top lugs will fail to completely disengage from the slide on the next shot, damaging the barrel lugs and slide lugs. Ideally, the upper portion of the rear surface of the lower lug should do the stopping, on the vertical impact surface, with the barrel just coming to rest on the barrel bed - barely "kissing" it, if you will.

@alanex5225 3 года назад

THANKS for showing us the tilting positions of the barrel. I think my radius is too short because the link is too short. Thanks very much for these videos, Jay.

@jayphilipwilliams 11 лет назад

Thank you. I am definitely planning on doing some more videos.

@mikeruane4744 11 лет назад

Very well done Jay. Now I understand it much better

@Crybotenabled 9 лет назад

Awesome video. It gives great insight on everything that's going on in the inside in a very easy to understand way. I would like to see more about other parts of the gun, such as trigger action, hammer, and what all is going on in the firing pin housing. Very educational.

@ga45guy 9 лет назад

Great video and very helpful especially when purchasing a used or even new 1911 as well as honing smithing skills. Thanks!

@joenoffsinger6376 3 года назад

Very nice. I like the cut away to the other media

@rjmprod Год назад

I really got a lot from your video here, for my 1911..Much thanks for great descriptions....!

@aaaaa1957 4 года назад

Great video. I know videos like this brings out the “ the experts “ but I don’t care because now I have a better understanding on what questions I need to ask. Thanks

@peterock8217 3 года назад

So, long ago when I got my Colt CCO, it used to jam on feed every now and then. I noticed the feed ramp was extremely close to the barrel edge, so I filed off some material from the bottom and basically did a feed ramp polishing job, pre youtube days, yes long ago!!!! It fixed the problem, but all along it could have been the barrel link being too long!! Gonna take her apart with a microscopic now, lol great video and thanks!!!

@urbanmerc1 11 лет назад

Jay u sooo need to do a 2nd vid series for ur next build. I can't find any vids as thuro and in-depth as ur. Thanks.

@sthengr 9 лет назад

Very helpful video, thanks!

@jayphilipwilliams 9 лет назад

It took me quite a while to understand all of it, but I'm glad I could pass it along.

@jayphilipwilliams 11 лет назад

Wow! Thanks! Since I botched a few things on my first build, I've really been digging into it and trying to understand it.

@silvermediastudio 2 года назад

How'd that work out

@danielvarela303 6 лет назад

Excelente, gracias!

@jayphilipwilliams 6 лет назад

De nada. :)

@ScoutSniper3124 9 лет назад

Great video and information, THANK YOU.

@jayphilipwilliams 9 лет назад

Glad it was helpful!

@saraivaarmeiro3816 Год назад

Muito bom video bem explicado

@jayphilipwilliams 11 лет назад

I honestly don't know. I'm figuring all this stuff out as I go. If I learn that info, I'll definitely post it in a future video. For now, you might try posting that question in one of the online 1911 forums like 1911Forum or 1911Pro.

@gator340 8 лет назад

Thank you for an excellent video regard the most challenging (for me) aspect of the 1911. I earned a lot from your explanations and the video captures what you are discussing very well. I just want to keep my 1911 running well and take care of it myself. I have found too many conflicts between 1911 "gunsmiths" about how the gun works and how to maintain it.

@pbc1951 5 месяцев назад

Wow, Good video.... My first 1911 build 20 years ago, Just bought a new frame and a Parts set out of Shotgun News.... Dropped it all together and bingo... Had a good shooter !! Now I am wanting to up grade the old mil surplus Brazil slide to a new SS Slide and a Ed Brown Barrel ...... Now looking at your and about 100 other videos.... so much to do to get it right.... I think I will sell 2 or 3 of my guns on gun broker and just buy me a Ed Brown 1911 .... Thanks for the very good info here....

@acab247 8 лет назад

Thank you squirrel. You took my understanding to another level.

@acab247 8 лет назад

Also how do you know if barrel bump is occurring?

@jayphilipwilliams 8 лет назад

+HagsTac1776 This should answer your question: forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=281003 Also, I'm glad the video was helpful. By the way, my avatar is a chipmunk, not a squirrel. :)

@acab247 8 лет назад

+Jay Williams thanks! Great thread. I've only put a hundred rounds through my build so far. Definitely something to keep an eye out for. Are you planning a 2nd build anytime soon?

@jayphilipwilliams 8 лет назад

I have a lot planned, but it's slow getting there. Mostly, it's contingent on getting a mini mull and oxy-acetylene tanks (I've collected all the other welding gear--just need the tanks). First, I want to weld up my botched barrel bed in my first build using a thin piece of stainless and the oxy-acetylene welder, then use the mill and Weigand fixture to mill the lower lugs after having them tig welded. Second, I've already started a second build. I have a video of the slide fitting, but I haven't done anything beyond that. Again, I'm waiting to get the mini mill to use that Weigand fixture for the barrel fitting. After I have that mill, I'll move forward with that build. I already have the frame, slide, and barrel. Third, I'm planning on doing another build in 10mm on a titanium high-capacity Caspian frame. I have the frame, slide, and barrel for that build, so it's ready to go. Again, I want the mill for the barrel fitting. I'm pretty fired up about that build, but there will be some challenges. Last, I've been toying around with doing an 80% build, but don't have any parts for that yet.

@acab247 8 лет назад

+Jay Williams Titanium will be interesting. Are you cutting the frame yourself? I've read about people having problems with galling on the titanium frames.

@benjaminharris1795 10 лет назад

I just broke my Springfield 1911 loaded. The left hand lower lug broke off while firing, after a close inspection I found that if I lined up the broken piece back to where it broke off of, it was slightly sticking out, thus it was making hard contact with the frame every time I fired just on the left hand lower side, instead of a nice even contact as was pointed out in the video. I will say that I bought the gun used and have no idea how many rounds were put through it, I have put somewhere around 700 rounds since I bought it. I am going to call Springfield and see if they will replace the barrel, as it appears to be a manufacturing defect. Thankyou very much for the video it really got me looking at all of the mating surfaces and I now have a better understanding of what go's on in there.

@jayphilipwilliams 10 лет назад

I'm glad the video helped!

@benjaminharris1795 10 лет назад

Very happy with Springfield they replaced the barrel for free and paid all of the shipping and only took 2 weeks

@jayphilipwilliams 10 лет назад

That's great service!

@jpnmn 11 лет назад

great vid, but is there a perfect ideal way to figure out what size barrel link is needed other than the method described in one of your previous videos?

@HammeringHank100 11 лет назад

Great video. After seeing it I checked my Colt Gold Cup and it only has a bow tie on the frame. Below the bow tie the frame is relieved .010 to .015 thousands' and the surface of the bridge shows no ware after thousands of rounds fired. I would think all frames would be made like this. This would make your video correct in every way. Hank

@evilcowboy 7 лет назад

Curious. Was the frame you are pointing out everything on been welded to repair slop in it? Just noticed it looked like a pretty nice weld if it has been.

@jayphilipwilliams 7 лет назад

Good eyes! If you watch some of the last videos in my first 1911 build series, you'll see that I made a HUGE mistake at the very end of the build. Huge! Anyway, I tried to repair the mistake and what you noticed is part of my repair attempt. I discuss the screw up and the repair attempt in a few different videos.

@Jerry944T 11 лет назад

You're learning Grasshopper. Jerry

@blusky7072 4 года назад

Put a .273" link in my Wilson Combat #D33 barrel and not the slide release cross pin rides the lower lug ramp perfectly. After I get the frame back from the gun smith to remove staked grip bushings I will see if the VIS and the bridge are the surfaces where the barrel lands. Theoretically the OEM link size is .278" but I have evidence that this was too long.

@wayneg5433 3 года назад

You need to be very careful putting a longer Link in your 1911 ! By doing this you are making the bottom lug hit the impact surface earlier! ( Before the top lugs are clear of the lugs in the Slide!) At around 5000 rds this often shares off the bottom ugs from the barrel! I have seen many guns with this problem including factory fitted guns!!

@TacticalTerry 2 года назад

@@wayneg5433 Seems like he went with a shorter-than-OEM link. Excellent point though.

@robgarrett4609 8 лет назад

At the end of this presentation, there was mention of potential damage to the slide stop when using too short of a link... aren't slide stop pins generally harder metal (Rockwell) than the stainless steel used in the manufacture of barrels?

@jayphilipwilliams 8 лет назад

That's beyond me. Maybe someone else can help.

@gianfrancotuzi3400 6 месяцев назад

hi, in the 1911 pistol what should be the support points between the barrel and the slide, at the end of its closing stroke?

@ericwendelin5066 3 года назад

No jay , mesure 290 from the back of the lugs , file off any extra and file the slope of the lugs so the plunger from your recoil does not touch the face of the plug , anything over 290 is bad / barrel bump , mesure the leg surface from the surface to the top of the link pin hole , take the shortest leg and subtract 3 thousands,, that’s your measurement if it’s a no4 you need not all links mesure the same that’s how you get the right link , on my last build I had 3 no 4 links but only one mesured right

@jasonr8534 10 лет назад

Great video Jay! I think it would be a good idea to add the interaction of the barrel bushing as the slide moves rearward. Since the bushing isn't on the same plane as the link pin, the barrel tips back on a slight angle as the slide moves rearward. If your barrel struck the VIS and bed at the same time, the tipping motion the bushing causes would create some binding, especially with a tight link. Just my observation.

@jayphilipwilliams 10 лет назад

Actually, the barrel is parallel to the slide and barrel bushing when the gun is out of battery (i.e., when the barrel has linked down to the rear and is butted up against the frame bridge). The potential for binding on the barrel bushing is when the gun is in battery. Regardless, I'll think about discussing that in a future video. Thanks for your feedback.

@jasonr8534 10 лет назад

Jay Williams Your right, you most certainly are. I forgot that the 1911 locks up just shy of parallel which is where you get your springing when fitting a new bushing. Sorry for the stupid comment, I had just been working on my glock when I saw your video.

@jayphilipwilliams 10 лет назад

No sweat. Don't worry about it. :)

@ClutchTacticsGaming 4 года назад

On my 1911 when the slide is locked back the barrel is a tad bit loose is that bad ? I think it should be tight with no movement

@jayphilipwilliams 4 года назад

I don't know that it's important as nothing is really happening then. The case just got ejected and the slide is about to start moving forward again to chamber the next round. I doubt that it matters.

@ClutchTacticsGaming 4 года назад

@@jayphilipwilliams ok thank you. Probably just my O.C.D lol i just bought it the other day and in trying to learn about them. I just want to make sure its not something that needs to be fixed or whatever

@ClutchTacticsGaming 4 года назад

@@jayphilipwilliams the rest of my 1911 is solid though, zero movement and play so im happy with that lol

@MrErroltortola 3 года назад

Did you weld the barrel bed surface to add more metal?

@jayphilipwilliams 3 года назад

Yes. Better not to take off too much to begin with. :)

@MrErroltortola 3 года назад

@@jayphilipwilliams I've got a problem with mine, too. My empty cases show that the firing pin hits above the center of the primer pocket.

@DjPorkchop73 6 лет назад

You mention barrel throat to feed ramp distance of minimum of 1/32. I hav eread it can be up to a 1/16". Mine that I just built is skating thin ice on being over 1/16". Will this cause light primer strikes and or other issues I am not aware of yet? I had fit almost 100% of my gun. I did go with a Ed Brown match grade barrel and bushing. No matter how I look at it, the gap is a proud 1/16". I pondered grabbing some layout fluid and doing some testing as your animations suggest to see what I have going on as far as barrel touchdown and lug engagement with the frame. Great video! Thanks for sharing with us.

@jayphilipwilliams 6 лет назад

I believe the only thing that distance will affect is feeding. It certainly shouldn't have anything to do with the firing pin and primer as the barrel isn't even resting on the bed when the gun is in battery. I don't know of any issues other than feeding that might be affected, but I'm just an amateur gunsmith like you. :)

@DjPorkchop73 6 лет назад

That's what I was thinking was feeding issues at best. Well, I was hoping for. It feeds snap caps just fine and extracts them just fine. I'm going to polish it all up and fire it. But have to do that polishing. It has that just built nice and grainy feeling to it with everything that is done ; squeezing the trigger, engaging safety and all. Thanks again. I appreciate it.

@warrenrosen132 Год назад

Did Browning have anything to say about these timing issues?

@brianmirelez7804 4 года назад

What frame is in the video

@jayphilipwilliams 4 года назад

That's a stainless Caspian. It's all outlined in the build series.

@user-eu3lh8zi1p Год назад

ความคิดที่ไม่มีไร ลอกเลียนแบบใด้😮

@silvermediastudio 2 года назад

It doesn't make sense to say the rear of the lugs shouldn't touch an area called the "Vertical Impact Surface." If it wasn't intended to impact, why would it be called an impact surface? It is important to note that many of the drawings in the shop manual aren't perfect, aren't to scale, aren't inclusive... either for clarity or simplicity. I don't know if this was intentional on the drawing in question here. A way to test all this out in your gun is to clean the surfaces thoroughly, apply a little grease first to the barrel side, and manipulate it down, observe, then clean again, apply grease to frame side, and repeat. This can be done first "open" like you do by hand, and then again built up, and then again with a live round. The grease gives a witness as to where the parts are touching. This can also be done with markup fluid like Dykem or other products, to give varying degrees of information.

@skully22100 7 лет назад

cant get my barrel link out any suggestions

@jayphilipwilliams 7 лет назад

If you mean that the pin that holds it in the lower lugs is tight, you'll just need to use a punch. Sometimes, that's a tight fit.

@nicop.8566 5 лет назад

If it's really tight try sticking it in the freezer overnight then tapping it out.

@TheJennflip 5 лет назад

Tighter than hell--bent my punch,used a nail set and a hard hit with a ball peen--probably supposed to be hydraulic pressed---my measurements show about a thousands difference in pin and hole size--so mighty tight...

@josephbolz4550 2 года назад

So how dya know it’s a tie between the vertical and horizontal impact surfaces🤓

@ryanfreeman125 10 лет назад

Wow you really beat that vertical impact surface contact stuff to death

@broot1375 Год назад

So how do alloy frames hold up to the impacts from a steel barrel slamming into the alloy frame bridge? I ask only because I have a Wilson Combat alloy frame that shows virtually no wear on the bridge after many fired shots and countless racking and dryfires. I would think that if it was a hard impact area the steel barrel would damage the alloy almost immediately... im not trying to discredit anything the video described...im just genuinely curious

@jayphilipwilliams Год назад

My understanding is that an aluminum-framed gun won't last as long as a steel-framed one, but I don't know that from personal experience, as I don't shoot enough. My advice would be that if you want a lighter gun, get that (aluminum) and shoot it. If you don't care about light weight and you shoot a ton, get a steel-framed one. If yours is aluminum, just keep an eye on it and make sure it stays reliable enough for your needs. Those are just my informal thoughts, worth what you paid. :)

@aaronbullock5785 2 года назад

Damn fine video, you sir have a beer waiting for you at the bar just as Soon as the Democrats decide it's "safe" to do so giggity!

@greyfox4230 6 лет назад

Lots of bad information here. If the barrel's downward motion during recoil is arrested by its impact with the barrel bed the link will be arresting its rearward motion. The result is that the link will be stressed, eventually breaking the link.

@blorton87 6 лет назад

james long not necessarily true, if the VIS is in the right place, that will arrest the horizontal momentum. The link will only arrest the horizontal momentum if the VIS is too far back (either because of manufacturing defect or because the HIS/bed needs to be lowered.

@hotrodray6802 6 лет назад

Military term = cluster frag !!

@opmike343 5 лет назад

These videos are ruining me. The various 1911 forums are filled with people doing nothing but talking about how pretty their guns are and them posting groups of how "accurate" the guns are. We know these higher end 1911s are accurate. We know these higher end 1911s are pretty. What videos like this have me wondering is who is and isn't building a 1911 PROPERLY? You can build a 1911 that is accurate and reliable for X amount of rounds, but what if it's slowly beating itself to death?

@kcstott 2 года назад

Whoever told you that the barrel lugs should hit the VIS is an idiot. The barrel should fall into the barrel seat and stop. The lugs should never touch the VIS. That’s how John Browning designed it. That’s how Wilson combat builds their guns. That and I see the scrap parts you’re using as props. That frame is so far out of spec it’s sickening