1911 Barrel Basics - | Fusion Firearms | 

Thank you sir for the nice comments. We are working hard to bring you all the straight facts and to have some fun. We are not sponsored, so no Bullcrap infomercials here....:)

@@fusionfirearms I like it! As someone who works in the industry, I can appreciate that!

@@fusionfirearms is it possible to fit a 5inch barrel inside my colt defender? it comes with a 3inch barrel

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Glad to help

Thanks, will do! Thank you for all the support !

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Glad it was helpful!

Thank you sir for the super comments!

Well, Generally if you are putting in a match grade barrel you will want a new bushing, and will it drop in.... Not sure, but probably not.

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@Jerry Sam Instablaster :)

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We make them both ways, Ramped and unramped, just depends on what you, the customer wants. You can spec this when you order.

It does not change much, generally start with a No.3 link .278 Center to center dim. and see how you lock-up. You can also check the original link in your pistol, but I generally start with then No3 and go from there.

@@fusionfirearms since I’m going for a tight lock up and it’s a competition gun do you think I should also buy one smaller or one larger just in case? Or a good way to measure my current one to confirm size? Probably just order the 278 and if I have issues whatever issues I’m having will point to whether the link is too short or too long. And again thanks

No This will not work, you would need a new top-end and several other parts. See our Caliber conversion videos.

Sorry, no. Slide/Breech face is different and several other parts. We do have some video's up on this topic

Hi Harry, No not really. The frictional coefficient will depend on the Barrel finish from machining/polishing & prep, regardless of material. Coatings may help reduce frictional coefficient but coatings such as Nitro carb, Ion Bond, PTFE base finishes, all can be applied to stainless steel or carbon steel. So again, no real difference. For the internal bores, Our stainless match are all gun-drilled, reamed, hand honed(for exceptional finish) and the air gauged.

Very good question!!... thanks for asking

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Hi Vern, this is a good question, timing, yes this is all over the map with manufacture to manufacture. Some parts have to be looked at like spring lengths and tuning is a slight bit finicky because of the shorter wheelbase. I will do a short video on this or add it to our Q&A coming up… Thanks… Bob

Just call into customer support and we can help you. And Look and see if you have a ramped barrel and the type. You can also just snap a picture of your barrel and we can tell you which ramp you have if you do not know.

The barrel boss area is the main front points of contact on the barrel bushing. The barrel is on a "Lock-up" angle. There is sufficient clearance for the proper lock-up and function.

Chrome is a plating and will be silver color. Melonite(Nitro Carborizing, will be black and actually etches into the surface.

Another great question, The link, set-up & work on the barrel feet, of the barrel will depend on what you are working with (as in tolerances and fitment of the frame, slide & Slide stop pin diameter.) So once you assess this then you can have a place to start. I try to work with a standard No.3 link, but again, this may not be the best choice depending on the parts you have to work with. I can generally get a great lock-up with a No.3 with about 80% of the projects we work on. On new builds I generally gen the barrel lock-up the way I want it and then grind in/Blend the frame to slide back. But, most of the barrel jobs I am refinishing the entire Project. This is a real good subject and I will do a video on this because this can get into a novel…😊 . Super suggestion

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Not really, maybe up.. you need play with the ejector/extractor and recoil spring and see what you can come up with. No real good recipe for ejecting left.

It is hard to tell without looking at it. On the frame to slide fit, there is not much that can be done other than peening the frame to tighten.

On the barrel, I would check the bushing for fit in the slide and on barrel, if it has a bushing. Next you might have to "link-up" to a No.4 or so to see if it will help. Also, Check the slide stop pin, you can try a slide stop with pin diameter at .199-.200. This may also help. Thanks for joining in.

Yes they will

Yes, That would be our defender size, See the barrel selector on the website.

@@fusionfirearms thanks I'll take a look.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nxrqgteLH4o.html

There are more barrel videos in our yourtube listings, look at them.

Yes, you can. I have seen many folks do this. You just have to make sure that the barrel boss Diameter is long enough to ride the barrel bushing. Fusion makes their 6 inch barrels this way so you can use them on 5 or 6 inch pistols.

Guess you should just try one and see the superior Fusion barrel handles. These are not production barrel, they are drilled, reamed, hand honed, air-gauged match barrels. the real McCoy.

@@fusionfirearms I would like to try one Of your guns someday.

Unless muzzle device is pinned and welded or hi temp soldered

Measure from X to Y, please point out X and Y.

On a 1911 it is from the back of the hood to the end of the barrel. Remember generally this will be longer than what is called out. Such as a 5" Gov barrel will be about 5.15" or so, for barrel bushing thickness and barrel "stick-out" or crown area.