Jim Thode-thank you. I remember having a couple of those rectangular boxes that people said were Model T coils. They were 1/4 inch maple with square dovetail corners. The coils were imbedded in mastic resin . They looked 'new' or at least unused. I had no trouble selling them in '74 when I was in college.
Yes, that site has helped me out a lot. It actually got me in touch with my local chapter and a couple guys came over and lent me a hand with the engine already. That site is a treasure trove of T knowledge.
I agree the crank may be repairable. The thing about Model T engines and many other early engines is that they do not use shell rod or main bearings. The molten babbitt bearing metal has to be cast directly into the block (or rods) and machined into final alignment and size. Jim
A hectic project, fixing up a really old car is more difficult than designing and building a new car from scratch. On a new car if you cant get the part you want you can put in a part from another manufacturer, you can put in any thing as long as it does the job. On an old car there is no where to go to buy parts, so depending on where you are in the world you some times end up having to make them yourself which is really a hard task as making a replica of some thing is harder than making a part of your own design, because with your own design you can do what ever you want, on a copy there is only one way to do it, and if its a complex part it can be very hard to replicate. So well done in getting this car going it would take more patience than what I have left in me. I have done a couple of big builds, a 400 cube small block Chevy V8 went into a 1988 Toyota Supra and a Smart for Two which I converted to a pure electric car 60v DC, but having to re manufacture what was done in the past is much harder to do. I know the restorer of this car knows that, but a lot of people think the level of complexity with new builds and restoration builds is the same, but it isn't restoration to 100% of original on really old cars is much harder to achieve.
I highly recommend Amsoil Z-rod 10w30 for your car. It has the zinc your engine was designed for and is synthetic too. I use it in both of my classic Fords.
Reminds me of the first car I ever had a 23 T in about 45, I was 15! I used the vaporizer as a base and made a n angle to mount a Model A carb. The A foot pedal stuff bolted right to the back of the T block. Much more power and driveabilty. I used my Ruxtel with a lever and a spring. I torque shifted it. T low, Ruxtel high, Then, T high, Ruxtel low, and finally both T and Ruxtel high. As such, I got the missing second gear an get away was so much better. Many tales of that car
Thanks for the comment. Pulling with the left hand, thumb flat is the safest way to crank a Model T. If it were to kick back it would kick back before the TDC 11:00 crank position and push your hand away from the crank handle. Cranking with the right hand or cranking full circle can cause serious injury if it kicks back. Do a google search for "Model T Ford Forum: Different Method of Hand Cranking ?????" or "Model T Ford Forum: Left handed cranking a new insight " for more info. Jim
Richard, It has a standard Model T Kingston L-4 carburetor on it. Also it has a Ruckstell two speed rear end in it. It gives four speed rather then the original two speeds. Thanks, Jim
Love watching videos of the Model T start and drive learning curve. I was there once. It takes a bit but you'll get it. There is a definite science to driving the T. Hopefully you get it before you go through a set of bands. Once you get it down it will start first flip of the crank after one flip of choke. Get that idle down too. It's idling way too fast. Is your choke wire run out the front yet? Makes life much easier. Good luck with it. Love the T but they are not for everyone lol.
gringo le breaux, Not really breaking in, just testing to see if it would run and checking for any problems. At that time I drove it only about 1/4 mile. Thanks, Jim
At least you have a late model with steel spoke wheels (Only available for 26~27), the wood spokes tend to fail at higher speeds! Many wood spokes have failed and caused roll over accidents.
Very cool. I am myself building a roadster pickup: from parts though. I thought it would be a 25, but after checking my engine serial numbers turns out the engine is a 26. So I too am now building a 26 truck. I have the engine all apart now. It looks like i'm going to need new rings, new valves, hone the top of the cylinder (the rest is mirror bright, too bad). I also am going to need a new fuel coil for the trans and need to have one of the piston arms rebabbitted. hope to drive by end summer!
irishcowboy111 , I don't plan on putting a starter on it. Just makes one more thing to break and cause problems. Model T's from 1909 to 1918 had no starter. From 1919 to 1925 starters were an option and in 26 and 27 starters were standard equipment on all cars. You can find all the changes by year for Model T's by goggling "MTFCA Encyclopedia". Thanks, Jim
Thanks for clearing that up. I'm about to start building a Model T pickup with a 3 foot bed. Not having the money for the exactly right parts, I'm going to put the body on a modern frame. Well, maybe a '76 Datsun or an old Maverick frame anyway. Still in the acquisition of parts stage.
Weird. I was taught just the opposite when I owned my T. Back when I was a member at the Owls Head Transportation Museum, it was two fingers on each side to start it. The Commutator rod went over the top of the steering shaft correct? If it doesnt, then that would explain it. As my spark lever would have been backwards.
playingwithfirehurts The original problem was a bit of rust in the main fuel pickup in the carb. After that it has always started fine. Some things are done off camera. Thanks, Jim
In recent years, there have been several attempts to re-write history and claim that Ford's Model T was not designed to run on ethanol/alcohol. Attempts have also been made to re-write history to say that John Rockefeller did not use Prohibition to shut down the alcohol fuel industry. I just published a thorough review and analysis of Ford's intentions for the Model T, as well as an eye opening look at what I believe John Rockefeller intended to do. The story is called: Yes, Tin Lizzie Was An Alcoholic. You can find it at: www.theautochannel.com/news/2019/04/20/660939-yes-tin-lizzie-was-alcoholic.html
If you still have the T. Your spark rod from the commutator to the connector on your steering wheel is too long. Fold it in the middle (if the fold is there already, increase the fold), the spark lever should only be the distance of two fingers from the top to start. Then rotate clockwise to the top to the stop for the run position.
wi11y1960, Thanks for the comment. If you do a google search for "Model T Ford Forum spark control settings" you will find a chart of spark control settings for a Model T. The spark lever should be fully retarded for starting and the lever should be advanced or pushed down after the engine is started. Jim
The Hungarian Jozsef Galamb was the designer for the Ford T model. This man was the chief designer of Ford's company nearly 40 years. Jozsef Galamb goes to a school on Hungary, the upper industrial high school. In it for the school which one today for Óbudai University, earlier Donat Banki Technical College.
Awesome job! Must have felt pretty good to have it move the first time! Here's the question: How did you convince the fam this was something you needed? haha
paytontech, There are many sources for tires and wheel, both new and used. New tires run about $100 and up and wheels up to $350 fro new wire wheels. Jim
Easier to Start a Ford if the trans is allowed to roll over . The rear wheel acts as flywheel to keep the engine turning .If the bands are new(ish) it helps too.
Thanks...I went there, and yes you really did take it further! I'd say a complete restoration, as far as I can tell! Looks great, runs great, and certainly sounds great! Congrats on such a great job!
One was climbing the old gravel road from Alamogordo to Cloudcroft in New Mexico. Shifting up and down on the Ruxtel, just like the big truck guys di with their two speed rear ends. At night to alleviate the over heat!! later, I built a 23 speedster from junk parts. No try to crank it up. Put wife on the gas tank and towed. it. No start??? til i found she had the brake pedal down and the rear wheels did not turn, merely skided on the dirt roaf! Once fixed it fired nicely. ,Another story there/
The crankshaft is bad because it was scored by a bad rod bearing. The crankshaft may be able to be ground down to smaller size and the rod bearing babbitt re-poured. Then maybe the other crank bearings would need placed and bearings poured in the block. All together most likely more expense then replacing the engine with a good used engine. Jim
Daddy always talked about those being crank started. Does anybody know if they originally had an electric starter or were retro fitted with that later on?
Model T's started in 1909 and did not have electric starters. Starters were not available and the car did not have an electrical system that would power a starter. At about 1919 most Model Ts had electric starters but not all. All Model Ts made from 1909 through 1927 has hand cranks so they could be started by hand even if it had an electric starter as most of the later ones did. I don't have an electric starter or even a generator on me 1926. It is just less things to go wrong.
Hi Jim good job i see ya got 26-27 pedals anyways back when a boy maybe 13 my job was getting kerosene for the shop stove in a doctors coupe with trunk. This was just a go getter called today just a beater. My invention in the winter was a string tied to the spark lever cause i could hand crank better than the starter even jacked up. Always to run for spark & it always died. The string worked..bring it back in one piece (never mind me) or a lickin. can sterno heat no cops free USA. samuel
