I love to watch what you do here. Keeping them preserved is one way to keep their history alive. With mine, my goal is to do a driver-quality restoration. I like them stock but my paint is what I get mixed at the local hardware store, and applied on the apron of my shop. I told one guy that my truck will haul the beer to the picnic but then the next week it could easily haul a load of sheep dooey to the garden. I have a lot of customers, some who are purist restorers, some who are into resto-rods and some who are into preservation. I don't get after anyone for doing it his own way. "Fix it the way you want but drive it," is the best advice I can give.
Love it that you like to keep your trucks in their working cloths, the minute people restore trucks and paint everything it’s story is lost. All the scares tell a story 👍
Bummer on the engine, but another great educational video. Although I do like your direction, not all will have the same approach to this stuff . . . But that’s OK, we can all get along! Great job. Loving the recent extra volume of videos.
Regarding stamping serial numbers, I have a copy of an old Model T shop manual. The mechanic procedure was to stamp the serial number onto the blank block when replacing an engine. Keep up the work! I am restoring KB-3 and am keeping it authentic. It’s only original once. These older trucks you are forced to make little changes because of lack of parts. Like for example condensers are all Chinese made and 9 out of 10 are junk. That forces a Pertronix upgrade under the distributor cap.
Thank you for the video. I was disappointed that the Green Diamond 214 block in my 49 KB1 had so many cracks. The casting on mine seemed like the grain structure was like styrofoam. I gave up on the idea of replacing the engine with another green diamond due to the cost. I appreciate keeping the rig stock and I applaud your tenacity to persevere. Looking forward to your next video regardless of what binder you're working on.
@@BareKnuckleBinder thank you for letting me know you have an extra Green Diamond engine. Last year I would have gone that direction. That said I've got green diamond accessories and 4 speed transmission available if someone needs it. The direction I went is a Ford 5.0 roller engine with a ZF5 transmission. The ZF5's granny 1st gear keeps the farm truck utility and the overdrive makes highway speed "possible". Not that I want to take truck with the stock suspension and bias ply tires on a high speed romp.
Ladd's Porting in Elkridge MD restores cast iron blocks. If your casting is not heated appropriately prior to welding. And gradually cooled down after, it will likely crack alongside the weld repair. Ladd's heats the block prior to repair in a furnace. Immediately after welding it returns to the furnace to gradually cool. For what little cracking you have at the top of the cylinder. It may not need to be sleeved after the weld repair.
At the start of this episode in the workbench scene, you had a red waterpump setting to the left of the flat head. The red waterpump looks familiar. Is it off an IH or Farmall tractor? Anyway, I enjoyed the video. Your video skills continue to grow. Camera angles, scene switching, narrating, editing, everything continues to show improvement video to video. That shows dedication to your channel. Great job!
Good eye, technically it's a truck water pump. The Silver Diamond truck motor family (SD/BD/BG) was reworked as an IH tractor motor in the late 50s and the water pump bodies are identical, however the pulley shaft is a different length. They can be modified to work in a truck, which some folks do since the tractor water pumps can typically be found for a fraction of the cost. Thanks for the kind words, Marion!
Back in the late fifties or early sixties my dad had a 35ish IH that he turned into an Ice Cream truck with a dry ice box in the bed....Have no idea whatever happened to it though...nice project Eric....
@@alcofrisbas. Rotella T4 15W40 is my go-to motor oil these days. You need something with zinc in it for the flat tappets. Pro tip: for some reason it’s cheapest at Home Depot.
@@BareKnuckleBinder super cool!! i usually use 20w50 vr1 for my old bikes bc the zinc. I was a bit worried that t4 would knock some sludge loose. I ended up going with castrol 20w50 and some oil stabilant, but next time, i'll hit up the rotella train. my B-140 loved the new oil. sounds better; *less* leaks etc.
I have a decent 1926 (I think, will have to check the title) INTERNATIONAL truck bed that was converted into a trailer. Bought it both to use as-is a little, but mostly to save it. Was thinking of trying to find the front part of the truck, but may end up selling it to someone who will use it. Virtually no rust on it since it's located in Wyoming, but has normal wear an tear. If you are interested or know of someone else that would be, I would let it go cheap.
Hello from Australia 3 x 214 green diamond here with that open water pump 1 x 233 green diamond here with the normal water pump... putting this 1 in the k4 soon
Is it frowned upon to bore the waterpump hole larger in the earlier block for the later waterpump? And can the odd-shaped thermostat hole be modded the same way?
@@fredk.2001 I don’t think it would frowned upon to alter the block to accept the more common water pump, you’d just have to be careful not to damage the block. As far as the thermostat, you could probably bore that opening if you absolutely had to, but the correct thermostats are plentiful and cheap. Just knowing which one to order will save a lot of time and work in that respect.
@@BareKnuckleBinder, the thermostat wasn't the main concern, just a curiosity. The waterpump however seems like an excellent mod to improve cooling on the earlier engine. Perhaps use a gasket, apply dykem to the block, scribe the new opening, and carefully diegrind the opening? Or if possible, get a machine shop to do the job?
@@lazygenes yep, mine does too. I briefly put a GRD233 in it and it was great until that motor developed a rod knock. Got another 233 I’m cleaning up to swap in, but that video is right around the corner.
