I can't believe it took me so long to get around to watching this series. Good stuff for us non-mechanics. Gives me confidence to tackle projects outside of my expertise.
Just read a few comments, you have some real doozies commenting. I've done repairs for fifty years , your way of doing them is the right way. All the extras won't put food on the table. That rebuild would run about five thousand with the hard to find parts. We just scraped Kubota engine because of all the special items used on a bobcat walk behind fifty machine. Had to buy thru bobcat , they suck for parts pricing. Cheaper to buy the new motor then rebuild it. Part of the downfall of the USA. Did you ever get that batteries for the electric man lift , great deal on that. Your a damn good mechanic and I know when I see them work.
this tractor brings back old memories when I was about 14 or 18 years old my uncle had an old allis chalmers tractor similar to this where you sat to the right side of the engine and had one of those metal seats attached to a piece of steel bar and a big heavy spring under the seat I got the opportunity to be able to drive it he used it for farming I also like to go to places that have antique shows whenever I can watch and look at all these old tractors and machinery in action
Love to watch you analyze troubles. Rock solid troubleshooting! You seem to share my philosophy..If it's broke, try to fix it! If you can't fix it, learn from it. Keep up the videos please! You don't need to change a thing. BTW, your shop is amazing!
fasinating series, not being mechanically inclined I though I would not be too interested. However I find I love these videos. My forte such as it is, is electronics. You have inspired me to try fixing my old ham radio that I blew up a few years ago. Thanks for doing these. Regards Dave.
Oh yes I have a 45 farmal A and is still mostly original. There a great tractor, built to last. My tractor is hand crank start. Starts half a crank. That tractor sounds good.
Enjoy your videos..... especially troubleshooting. Worked on cars and airplanes since a kid, but not professionally so can’t compare to you. Enjoy your improvising and fabrication in repairs. Also appreciate your minimizing disassembly when possible....mechanical genius.
So the carbs are interesting on the A's, H's, M's. You need to find a good manual on them. For example: there is a non-flooding drain on the bottom of the carb... you might think it is leaking, but it dumping fuel so as to not flood. There are two screws: one for air mix and one for Governor adjustment. I had an H and it was sometime before I finally figured it out! You are doing an awesome job. Well done.
The part just behind the motor of course is the bell housing, then you have the torque tube then the transmission. Some of the newer carb parts tend to need a little finessing to get them where you want them. I typically do the same grind on the rod then tack a washer there which helps smooth it out. Nice job!
Great vid The carb gasket could be soaked in water to rejuvenate and give back its elasticity Just an an idea , you've clearly got the hang of tinkering to a fine art Keep up the good work
Great Vids! I subscribed. Yes, you should ALWAYS clean an old block in a proper parts washer. Yes, you should always put a battery charger on when starting a new engine and of course a shot of ether reduces the wear and tear on the old starter
Nice tractor. Can't believe it is used for tractor pulls. Looks like we got a tease of the inside of your trailer when you drove down the driveway . Thx for sharing the video.
thanx so much, I have a "B" . I somewhat understand my farmall a little beter now. mine needs break bands replaced and rearend leaks all gearoil out within 30 to 45 days,gets a little expencive to run . love my little b farall , thanks a bunch jeff
Nice fix on the linkage. Yes I put my cigarette out - hope in the can of rags was ok? Looking forward to you/he getting all the parts and seeing you work to fix everything. Especially that carb!
nice work mate i did hear a miss in it when it was running but that could have just been me. I think the carb work shohld solve the problem. would love to see it do a tractor pull. have a great day mark
Nice job on the throttle; looks like someone tried to rebuild the carb with a mickey-mouse repair kit; certainly needed your loving caress. Sparks and all! ;)
Yup the Venturi Horn Gasket has shrunken that's why your not getting vacuum , Good ol pallet liner paper works fine for gaskets on these pop had the Farmall M I had the W-4 and W-6
It certainly sounds a lot happier now. The carb kit and overhaul should make another big improvement, though I rather suspect from what you've found so far that a previous owner was rather more interested in keeping the tractor looking nice rather than dealing with the mechanical gremlins so I wouldn't be at all surprised if it turned out that the governor needed some TLC as well...
How did you know I was smoking? Weird! Nice video. That linkage is super tight in there and my Pops has a full threaded rod on his scraping the block. Probably gonna fabricate a new one from rod stock and thread for yoke.
Kind of funny . I watched till you pulled carb off and complained about bends twists and rubbing and was going to comment that whoever worked on it previously apparently replaced the rod from the wrong side which properly connected would have eliminated all the tweeks and interference and lo and behold dj madura , last commenter before me commented on just that same issue. That would draw the rod away from the tractor and eliminate the protruding end from rubbing bowl. I was just trying to find out correlation of throttle lever into gov and throttle linkage coming out if gov. My dad asked me to get his going and i was successful but you could move throttle lever with 0 response to linkage going to carb throttle. Im guessing there is a sleeve going ove both shafts fastened by set screws to unify movement inside governor housing or something along those lines to synchronize the levers and one of the screws loosened because both levers work but independently of each other. Dont have manual and its a two hour drive and dont want to start and not be able to finish so im just looking for reference material.
WE use to have a lever just like the choke but connected to the governor so that you could hold the governor wide open. But just for a few seconds when you needed that little extra kick.
Just keep in mind those carbs were made for multiple purposes so the manufacturer would not have put in twists and bends on throttle linkage arm. It would have originally been flat and a 90 degree bend and would have left it up to end users to adapt linkage and mounting points to fit up to the carb not vice versa
Looks like the governor linkage was supposed to go in from the carb side and they bent the arm inward to clear the engine. Think there's too much advance, sounded like a car instead of a tractor, good torque at little throttle makes it seem more responsive and revs easier but doesn't pull loads as well.
The governor seems unresponsive but hard to tell due to the poor sound quality of my Chromebook. You should get a pretty controllable throttle all the way across on the range of your throttle control lever. If the carb is sucking air that could be it. Is the governor spring built into the governor guts on that unit?
Do you read comments from older videos? This seems to be the last in the series of the Farmall. You might say that in the title, because I'd be looking for an update.
A&W that's not your father's root beer. And I thought I was all caught up and now I see ya got another one to view. Looks like a British tractor with the steering wheel on the ride side.
You could chop that door sweep down and screw it to the back edge of your mower deck and make some sweet stripes in your lawn like they do on baseball fields.
You won't notice any difference in your high yet unless your engine is under load. You can try just revving it by pulling on the throttle to see how it revs and adjust accordingly.
I have two things against you, one you didn't button up the whole tractor at the end of the series, I'm glad you made this one! the second was that you never showed putting the coolant in........ wasn't that the end of the story?
that air adjustment screw and the gaskit sounds dead on worked on that myself like 3 1/2 turns out should hear difference in sound your in the ball park on that one
What about disconnecting the governor all together? I want to think if he is pulling he would want full throttle with no interference from the governor. If you can get it it would be great to see this little fella pulling. :)
Hey guys got a problem I hope you help me with. Rebuilt a 1941 farmall a tractor but everytime I put it in reverse I get a loud rattiling noise by the gears
Bend that tab back out towards the engine block and flip over the shaft and put it in reverse from the way it is now as well as work the bends out of it theres supposed to be no bends in that rod connecting to the governer
I think if the pull point was lower it would help as where it is it has a tendency to lift the front up very easy as if it is lower it will be a lot harder
NO, this was after the original cracked block was removed, and replaced. You should watch all six videos..well worth watching !! Great old tractors !! from ALEX in Australia
