White WB-20 Tow Truck, we call her the Big Ugly Pumpkin can we get it to start after sitting for how long?! #white #1949 #willitrun #willitstart #1949 #ratrod #towtruck
I miss these old behemoths. 💔☹️ They are so reminiscent of my childhood days. Seeing this old workhorse put a good feeling inside me. 👍😊 Thanks for the memories son. I'll nod off to sleep now to have the sweetest of dreams thinking about my life before modern vehicles. 👏😊
I agree! The slant six is a good engine. Taxi drivers love them. They last forever. But... a 225cid is a bit small for such a big heavy truck. Torque and gear ratios, I guess. 🙂
I'd love to see you do more with this old white. There are only so many old trucks out there and a lot of youtubers purposely destroying them because they have no value to them and they want views. I would like to see you get this in to roadworthy condition where you could take it to antique truck events. A lot of us enjoy an old truck that hasn't been restored better than showroom or cut up into a rat rod. That's just my two cents worth though.
I agree. The ones that really piss me off are idiots like Bruce Wilson and KT3406, who repeatedly make videos of Detroit 2 strokes deliberately allowed to run away and blow up, for their amusement and clicks 😠. Senseless destruction.
My uncle has 2 of those trucks in his barn. He bought them both back in the fifties. They're in mint condition and start and run like new. My uncle is 93 now.
Dont forget to put a little grease on the points rubbing block and to put some oil into the felt under the rotor and there are gaps in the base plate to oil the mechanical advance weights also the older distributors had an oiler on the side of the body for oiling the shaft.Make sure the manifold support stay is installed as it is a very heavy lever on the mounting studs which you also need to tun a spanner (wrench in your lingo ! ) over regularly. Regards
The bolts sticking out of the rear brake chambers are caging bolts. When you tighten the the nuts and it pull the bolt up, its actually pulling the service brake spring up so the brakes are in the released position. The screw that you are turning in on the carburetor is probably the idle air mixture adjustment. it should be turned in until the engine just about dies, then back out until it smooths out. If its backed out to much, you will just have to high of an idle. The whole in the floor next to the shifter looks as if it originally had a duplex shifter twin stick. The front wheels have been converted from bud style to a unilug. Love the patina on this truck, great find and really great thing to do with you dad. All the best.
We loosened the nut till the caged bolts were fully in (even loose) and still didnt have brakes. Neither the spring brake or brake pedal gave any resistance. When we pull the air brake knob the bolts back out all the way and are able to come out completely, not sure if they should be left in or not but it seems weird that they are just loose with the ability to come out. We're not too familiar with these old air brake systems, if you are we'd love some info on them! Thanks for watching!
@Edward-Thaine Those "bolts" as you call them are only inserted into the hole of the brake chamber and turned a quarter turn in order to release the park brake which is what the know on the dashboard is doing with air. If you have no air then to release the brakes you must use those special bolts. They need to be removed and left in the truck if needed in the future. The foot valve which is the brake pedal on the floor sends air to the brake chambers at all wheels and moves the arm that is attached to the lever on the shaft which on a 60's and up truck is called a slack adjuster. Not sure whats on a 49 originally but I doubt much of that truck is original except for the cab. The slack adjuster is designed to be adjustable so as to be able to limit the distance between the shoes and drum and is attached to the shaft coming out of the brake backing plate. The rear brakes are "cam" brakes. The shaft turns and the cams on the shaft have rollers against them that are on the brake shoes and as it rolls up the cam the brakes increase in diameter and press against the inside of the drum. The brake shoes must be thick enough and the drums not oversized and the rollers working properly and no damage to the cams as the shoes should only be 1/8 or less from the inside of the drum. Excess wear in any of those parts can keep the cams from being able to expand the shoes far enough to reach the drums. Google, air brakes and truck brakes and cam brakes. There are pictures and even videos on the brakes.
@@crazyoilfieldmechanic3195 Great explanation! We took the bolts out and theres actually a holder for them on the side of the can. Still got nothin from the brakes. Our guess is pads/drum/cam is worn out. But we will find out when we dig into it more! Appreciate the reply!
Remember that a Slant Six has solid lifters, so there HAS to be valve lash. That's the noise you hear. Someone has put a Chevy stovebolt carburetor on it. Chrysler ignition systems of that era used a coil that was designed to operate on about 6 volts with the key in the ON position(running) which was dropped by the ballast resistor originally. During cranking, the starter circuit through the ignition switch routed power around the ballast resistor to feed the coil full 12v. There is no "terminal on the solenoid"...these commentors have been around too many Chevies. If you don't wish to fool with a ballast you can find a coil that has an internal ballast. Not sure how long the points would last with full 12 volts. It has a pre-1970 valve cover on it. The only factory Slant Six painted that blue color with that style cover was a 1969. You can determine the year of the engine by finding the stamping that is on the deck surface right below the #1 sparkplug. It faces upward and will be something along the lines of F225R 6733 2809 F is the year code, 225 the displacement, R is regular fuel, one of those two sets of numbers( your's would be different of course) is the shift code and the other the production date as deciphered by the 10,000 day Mopar calendar. Have fun!
Thanks for all the good info! The coil we got has an internal ballast so it should be good. I think the engine had 1970 on it somewhere. Ill double check it with the codes you gave, thanks!
On the starter solenoid, there should be a terminal that appears to do nothing. It actually provides 12 volts while the engine is starting and should hook up to bypass the balast resistor to the distributor. Should take care of the starter drain you were having.
We backed the nut off till the cage bolt was fully in, even loose. and we still didnt get brakes. the bolt does pull out though, does it need to come all the way out? We're not familiar with these old school air brakes, any info would be greatly appreciated!
May not be standard on a Chrysler product, but this is a very non standard situation, Chrysler motor grafted into something else, Battery cable sizes, terminals, condition etc all affect this. Suggest a reading coil voltage at coil terminal while cranking as a starting point, is the coil a 12V for Chrysler or 6V from original install. Maybe a direct cable from battery to coil bypassing all original wiring, don't leave connected between attempts or you may burn coil. Check coil polarity as well, original had a generator suggesting +ve earth, alternator on current motor would be -ve earth. Coil polarity and voltage are important, hence question about whether it is original 6V or updated 12V coil.
I grew up in Michigan, in the 1960's, the town we lived in was the gravel capital of the United States, I remember a gravel pit using the late 1950's White WC2264's as pit trucks....I had a tandem axle WC White dump truck some years ago. I had to part with it due to health reasons....
Cable operated well drilling rig or "sputter" in the field. Very old and dangerous. You would go through a lot of rig hands using that antique today but people should see it running so as to understand how much things improved.
I'd like to see a part 2, possibly a part 3 where you get the engine running and go through the brakes or go through the transmission and get the truck moving
Referring to the firing order, a mechanic named Denis taught me, "15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right." Except the next year, I found out that 36 was just right. Giggity.
We had a 1956 Oliver Super 55 diesel farm tractor, acquired by White Trucks, then Massey I believe. I had 2 deal with Massey when they went bancrupt, on a cash basis, 2 days a week, no guarantee there WOULD be "another day"! 4tunately, I got the engine parts/pump and injectors rebuilt b4 they folded! Years of ether starts destroyed the sleeves/pistons/rings, so I rebuilt the top end. an old diesel mechanic taught me the "paper timing light", after the engine got accidentally bumped with the injector pump removed! I had a few sleepless nites! lol
Сравнительно древний (1949) автомобиль, а его двигатель работает очень устойчиво, особенно "низы". Автомобиль в коллекцию! А вам - успехов в работе. A relatively ancient (1949) car, and its engine works very steadily, especially the "bottoms". Car in the collection! And I wish you success in your work.
Brown and Lipe auxiliary trans, brownie for short. Many different sizes and ratios. Some had "power towers" that ran the winch. You would have had better luck using ether rather than flooding it. From appearances this truck was used in a salvage yard. Turned out pretty good for not having help from a mechanic.
granpa used to drive a 1963 valiant with that same engine and that is the sound i remember. i was what, 4, 5 ish years old? the car is in the house but very rusted out. grandpa passed 2 years ago.
Your so lucky you get to work on old trucks with your pop I wish I could have done that I did get to fish with him a lot but fishing was his thing Motor head was mine
love watchin this truck, my was a old fueling truck from a paper company in oregon an it doesnt have the air brakes an its all origial except missin the tanker but im going to build it into a road tractor
That piece where the coil is hooked up is a ballast resistor, run your hot wire directly to the coil and if it runs that way, the resistor is bad. Pretty common on Chrysler products. Operating the throttle will help as well. Keeping the engine RPM above idle will help as well, especially if the engine hasn't been run in a few years . Good luck. 😊
A12 volt coil you can get a one wire alternator and get rid of a lot of that harness check the key wiring to fix your delayed start the engine is starting on the rotation after you turn the key to run the ballast resister brings the voltage down to 91/4 for constant running I love old stuff IF YOU CANT GET IT ALL GET SOME!!
I have a '51 Supper and found out the hard way about brake technology of the time. The brakes on mine work backwards from the way they work now. They release when you loose air presser ,then it rolls down hill.
You're not getting 12 volt ignition. To increase the voltage when starting, normally the I terminal on the starter solenoid must be connected to the coil + side. When the starter is energized, the solenoid sends 12 volts to the coil side of the ballast resistor. When you were trying to bypass the resistor, you were not actually bypassing it. When you try to run without the resistor in circuit (like with a "12 volt" coil, you'll soon start burning out points, do the very high current being drawn by the coil. As best I remember, 12 volt coils were essentially the same as 6 volt coils, hence the ballast resistor or a resistor wire taking its' place. You can easily check this is the case by comparing the coil resistance between the two small (+ and -) terminals with an ohm meter.
too tired to comprehend that in full, but in short you are right, the points should not get a full 12 volts as starting drops the battery to 9-10v on crank, the ballast resistor is designed to keep the points at this voltage once cranking has stopped and the engine is running
@@oliverroedel1111 You obviously do not know what a ballast resistor is for, On Crank the coil and points get 9v in start postion allowing for starter draw, then when the key is returned to on that runs through the ballast resistor to keep the coil and points at 9-10v. You learn something new every day :)
@@user-yd7nc8ls1dI know very well. How ignition systems work. POINTS never get 12V, they get the hugh voltage from the coil. the COIL does get 8-12V, depending on the ignition system.
@@oliverroedel1111 Never get 12v? but you just said they do depending on ignition system. thats as varied as my ex fiance's opinions on the sky being blue
hoesntly id leave it a yarder with the system the way it is on the winch an boom, its going to come in soooo handy when your moving around stuff, or if ya wana git rid of it ;) i have a hefty collection i like trading around
It might be a waste to rat rod this truck. The truck has so much character. Maybe get it mechanically sound and tidy the body and chassis a little so as to keep its history. I think you would have a crowd pleaser definetly. Regards from England 🇺🇸 🏴
We would keep the looks, just some power upgrades, wheels/tires, give it some stance to drop that bumper down a bit 😁 weve got some cool ideas! Stay tuned. Thanks for watching!
@@Edward-Thaine-- Well, if you "ratrod" this truck I won't stay tuned. I hate it when someone destroys a piece of history or a neat old truck, even though it doesn't have the original engine. I've refused to sell some of my previous classic trucks to people for this reason. Once they told me their plans I refused the sale. Sure they were pissed, but they are not going to destroy one of my trucks!!
@@ironcladranchandforge7292 There are enough "Rat Rods" out there built to be rats. Survivor vehicles made safe to drive and run daily are a better choice. I have a 1933 BB Ford survivor, 89 years old. Fresh from the fields of Great Falls Montana.
@@Edward-Thaine Yeah it is, I saw that Slant 6, an earlier industrial unit, and thought "Oh man that's gotta be nearly gutless considering how gutless my '83 D150 is with a Slant 6 and a 4 speed straight drive" haha! Still fun to drive I bet tho!
