1964 Dodge D-100 WON'T start. Here's what was really wrong. 

YOu can short the two main positive bolts going in and out of the relay solenoid with a small spanner handle to determine If the starter will crank without the solenoid switch.

Yeah you gotta sand down all the connections, that's just how these ol trucks are. I have a 63 D100

Wow hope to see some more of that old dodge

I'm a new subscriber, been liking the content. Keep it up.

After reading these comments I’m glad you made that video showing the truck starting and running even if just for a second. Some of these people watch these other youtubers and think you gotta pull out a meter and lab scope for every scenario. As long as you find the issue it doesn’t matter what methods you used to get you to that point.You found and fixed the problem. Case closed. That’s a job well done 👍

Super job my friend. Excellent channel 👏🏻👏🏻

Love your videos been following you a month now I have a 91 pontiac 6000le had no start problem was fuel injectors

Been addicted to watching your stuff!

Just look at that Leaning Tower of Power sitting there all majestic and whatnot

Ernest: Great video. It's nice to watch how you trouble shoot things. Bryan

look at those fenders.. it's like a work bench.. i bet you only needed 10 tools back then to fix anything on those old trucks : )

Hey Ernest! Thanks for the video.

It’s nice to see old classics on here!

The pop tart wrapper made me lol.

Moustache is killer man !!! Canada approves 🇨🇦

Pretty sweet old truck!

The Leaning Tower of Power. SLANT SIX. Looks like is has the BIG two barrel carb super six.

sounded like the motor was locked up.

...you heard the fuel pump engage?. If That's an original engine....without doubt it has a mechanical pump

Voltage drop!

Most definitely replace a bunch of old probably still good parts with some China junk. Honestly that should have cranked with no relay solenoid or anything assuming the starter is good. Voltage doesn't mean it will carry a load. A job well done? Huh? umm no. Not trying to dog you but if anyone thinks they learned anything from this they are mistaken.

I owned several slant 6 vehicles . Most of those systems had a ballast resistor . You ALWAYS want to carry a spare . If it burns out , then crank , no start . Easy to diagnose . A voltage drop test on positive and ground sides of the starter would probably reveal several areas of high resistance . And if there is nothing at the S terminal on the starter on a crank , it's not getting there though the ignition switch , wiring or the relay . Unfortunately , some people see everything connected and think it should work . Good fix .

Great video

You sure that was a "a job well done"?? (P.S.....not a "hater" at all.....fan of your channel.....but sometimes a tougher question, other than pure praise, brings about responses about "haters" and "trolls". Don't be so sensitive.. you have skills)

The owner must have added an electric fuel pump. Those came with mechanical pumps.

That truck is old enough for Goober and Gomer of Mayberry may have worked on it.

225 slant six, I have one in my 68 Plymouth Belvedere 2 door club coupe, and I have the 3 in the tree..... 225 is an awesome engine.

From an old timer: I still have my 72 Valiant. also had 76 Dart. I seemed to have had a no start a couple of times. It turned out to be the "ballast resister" located on firewall. Replaced and started right up. This is a weak point on ignition. Great engine and transmission..just crappy workmanship when putting car body together at factory....Will run forever with proper maintenance.

I’ve retired those old trucks. You can get a whole new harness, which I would do if restoring it

Owner is going to restore it but cannot get it to start, hope he is not restoring it himself ?

Slant six was a great engine

That's why I gave up working on cars for people years ago, people are strange. I'd of HAD to crank it over, just to prove my work was good. I'm not coming back because of stuff like that. I'll put my own battery in it if I have too. I've started peoples cars like that many years ago.

Your Battery Charger looks like one that My Dad has. We have a Tractor with a 6 volt systems on it.

As great as the slant six was, that old truck is begging for a V8 swap. A warmed-up 318 would be plenty.

Looks like a 70s super six 2 bbl engine that was dropped in.

You should franchise.

Those Optima batteries are AGM and that style charger will ruin them.

A 1964 Dodge truck won't start? So what ? Do any viewers really much care about a truck that is 57 years old? Be realistic.

Have you ever received phone calls from fans just wondering cause your number is on your truck

Lots of bitter old heads in the comments today huh

It would have been nice to see the old girl running. I think it would be worthwhile to carry a battery with you as part of your tool kit. Its hard to accurately diagnose other problems when you have a weak battery.

Watching Ernest makes me wanna become a mechanic, at least half the mechanic he is

you got power probe in your hand and you didn't bypass the whole system to check the starter works .if not power probe bypass the relay and the starter will crank as a quick test set of jump leads to bat positive and one to engine bypasses earth problems as long as capable of high amps ,but would had a good known battery b4 doing anything especially if i went back to the job maybe carry an old good battery just for testing both parts possibly needed changing but in this video you achieved nothing ,the end result was the same as when you first got there ,but your video was constructive ,believe it or not i even learnt something as you do on every job in the motor trade,,, drop test live and earth first and always start with a good battery .not a jump start unit ,on new car could be fatal to ecu ,,i like you enthusiasm keep up the good work ,,ps did the engine rotate by hand????

Saludos gringo bigotes!

i think the new battery worth more then that old car 😂

the reason it wont start is because the engine is seized...knew that 20 secs in. was never a starter or solenoid or cca issue

I can tell you the first problem it’s a dodge

That battery is gonna be junk.. the optima red top gels need to be charged at 15v

this is why my uncle packs around a couple charged batteries in the back of his truck, not great ones, but salvaged that hold a decent charge, never know when you will need to do a road side rescue thats just a bad alt or battery or...when you will need one to figure out WTF happened... these old systems, arent complex at all thank god, once was given a truck by a buddy, who spent weeks messing with it, couldnt get it to run for shit... wasnt a starter issue... i just swapped out the guts in the distributor after cleaning the points and contacts very well and even buffing them... (Took me like 30-45min tops), he was giving me shit the whole time... took another 20min of dicking around to figure out a relay also needed replaced(was working..but only sort of... turned out an old man showed us a trick with contact cleaner he poked a hole in it, sprayed it, once we were sure thatw as the problem as well... the old guy just dug around in the buckets(5g buckets) of random parts and wires and found one that looked brand new on a socket and wires that were brand new.. tested and it worked....my buddy gave me the 378usd he had on him, and said "fuck me, im a trained mechanic and... how did you figure that out?" .... " i grew up around rednecks and have seen this kind of thing dozens of times, including our old ford truck... i tried to tell you but...well... you know how well you listen" hes still got that truck over 20 years later, he had me help him do a full tune up and partial overhaul when he started restoring it for shows... it looks amazing these days.. i dont care for the color of the paint, but, its genuine original paint from that era he got ahold of that was actually still in usable shape, so he used it.. he has said though, hes going to get somebody to help dip spray it both for extra protection, and so the original color/paint he had applied is still there and safe, after watching a bunch of the videos a fellow does with that stuff, it should be amazing... he wants to get it painted dark with a hypershift or something... oh, he did do something that wasnt the norm but, possible on the model truck hes got... he was able to install power steering, the mounts were there, it was just not a standard feature and many didnt pay the extra for it(most im told didint infact....sort of like paying extra for seatbelts was why many vehicles that could have had them, didnt...) now newer trucks/cars.... i have had computers claim 1 thing was wrong, when, it was something like 3 stages back in the system that was failed or had a bad connection, as i told my buddy, i hate it when he shows up, and wrangles me into helping him with his wifes car... often you just use what the computer says as a "oh, so we have to check everything leading up to that"... even the prof trained techs hate them... one GAVE him the software to install on his laptop that with the usb dongle he already owned, allowed him the same access and details the shop would be getting, and the guy just told him, since he was a mechanic himself, just use the software and work back from whatever it says is the problem... dont trust that it will know a relay has a corroded connection or something like that... i laughed when he told me all the things the shop tech told him.. (he paid over 500usd, for what would have taken him and whatever friend/friends he wrangled to hang out and work on it, at most a few hours... prob less since.. most of these guys arent mechanics but tech geeks who work with electronics alot, and have a predelection to working backwards from what we see as a problem, to what is causing it... be it in software or hardware.... im just mechanically inclined... when i was a kid, my uncle scarfed some wheels off grandads old mower because, he couldnt get it to run... i spent 45min pulled the carb, cleaned the jets with a wire, used wd40 to blast the whole thing, before re-assembling it, took 3 pulls and it was running i killed it, went and got him... he went and bought 4 brand new wheels for it and used it for years till some jackass stole it out of his truck, but left the much newer powered mower(the one they stole, didnt have power wheel drive anymore, we removed that to make the back wheels/wheel mounts more robust and reliable... and the stuff he used it for he didnt need power.... ) i was 8-11 yo someplace in there... he still brings it up from time to time as a "if i cant get it running, i will just have you try" , i refuse to work on huskavarna small engine carbs though... even the techs at the local dealership just swap them out and send the one that wont work property back for refurb...

Notification gang

Not to discourage you, because I love your "can do/job well done attitude". That being said you really need to get some training. It's cheap, Scannerdanner.com it's only 11 dollars a month and hundreds of hours of training. So, One solid click is always a bad connection(usually in the starter) a clatter noise is usually a low voltage situation, causing the relay/solenoid to engage/disengage. HTH

One mistake I saw you do . Was charging that battery with your face and body all around it BI G mistake . . Did you ever see or hear a car battery explode when you were next to it ? If you got scared from a pop tart wrapper making noise you would have 💯 % pissed your self and maybe sharted if it exploded when you were hanging over it 😱. They make a really loud BOOM when they go . Just saying charge it away from you Trust me Definitely loved the old truck though