I had a 54 ford f100 I was restoring 30 years ago, someone wanted it worse than me so I sold it and got a 65 Chevy, sold it. oh well. Hope you had a Good Christmas, and have a prosperous new year .
This 53 F100 is customer's. We are not doing anything major. Just re-upholstered the seat and backrest and it had an AC installed somewhere, but apparently it wasn't working properly, so we fixed that as well. Now the owner is thinking of selling it and we are storing it for him. I am not into American classic cars. I like the little British beauties and Triumphs in particular. We are buying another TR6 now - there isn't much left of it. As they say in one of my son's favorite cartoons - it is so rusty, it almost doesn't throw shadow LOL. Happy New Year, Keith!
Another great video Elin....knowing my luck cleaning the threads on the deep holes in the block would have resulted in me getting the tap stuck...ha ha. One little tip I should have given you earlier when freeing off the pistons in their bores. Before the advent of WD40 and similar products we used old brake fluid ( I.e. Fluid that's collected after flushing or bleeding brake lines.) Don't know what is it in to provide its freeing qualities , but injecting some into each cylinder bore using a pump action oil can, and allowing the fluid to seep through over a couple of hours tends to clean all the carbon and junk that makes the piston rings to stick. We used the stuff to free of anything we found to be stuck or seized in the shop from steering King pins, shackle pins in leaf springs, hand valves....in fact it was usually our second choice of lubricant if WD40 failed. Something to think about if you find yourself stuck in the future
Yeah, getting the tap stuck inside was my biggest fear too. But everything went well. The break fluid was largely used for unseizing in my childhood too. I remember my father used it everywhere. WD40 or anything similar wasn't available in my country at that time. There was a rumor about Coca Cola having the same abilities, but I've never seen anyone using it for that, just because it was so expensive that it would be a sin wasting it on rusty bolts LOL. Anyways, my engine wasn't that bad, actually it wasn't seized at all. I just wanted to have some lube on the rings before I try spinning the crank, but it turned so easy, that even made me think the pistons were too lose. Anyways I will probably rebuild the engine just for a good measure, or at least take it apart and check if it needs rebuilding.
As far as I know the head and block are the same,,,rods are the same,,,Pistons differ,,,,just the stroke is shorter on the gt6 And yes, I totally agree with you about doubting all other work. I way I had the room and knowledge to do my own work.
My wife and I raced for 6 years, she a single engine and I a twin. Our last race was Watkins glen, 1978. We won several races, it was the least expensive way to race at real sports car tracks. Thanks for asking !
Not good at all, but I missed that part for the primer somehow. When I was spraying the black paint I covered the holes for the brushes on the starter. The openings on the generator I covered when I sprayed the silver on the pulley. It turned out the generator had bugger issue than some paint on the winding... you will see in the following videos.
Hello,,,the trouble with my tr6 low compression was the wrong crank,,,,, It had a gt6 crank that has a 2.99 stroke ,,,,,as my tr6 has a 3.74 stroke,,,, So the bottom end had to come apart once again and the crank swapped out for the correct one
To be honest I always thought GT6 engine was the same as the TR6. But I never had my hands on one, so I never needed to dig into specs. But I really hate when people, who consider themselves professional don't even check documentation before doing such a major work like this. Makes you doubt everything else they fixed on your car.
On the smoking TR 4 engine. I rebuilt mine and didn't watch the position of the rings and boy, did it smoke. So maybe you might want to check that out,, never know. Also, just a suggestion on you engine rebuild, you might want to fly cut the head and block to get a really good fit because most of the factory heads and blocks weren't done that well. As I said just a little old experience from the old guy, ha! Not trying to tell you what to to do or anything because I like how you work and appreciate what and how you do things, Jim
I am not going to touch the smoking engine any time soon, but I investigated a little and there are few issues. First I briefly measured the cylinders with the head off the engine and they are way bigger than the standard size. They probably require +.020" pistons and rings. I checked what rings did the mechanic order and guess what - standard size! - he never measured. Also the liners are tapered and out of round and they had a significant ridge under the top edge, so they needed to be taken care of, but this didn't happen. The other thing my boss is telling me - the guy mentioned something about overlapping the ends of the oil rings, because they were too long!!!! Oh, he also ordered two sets of rings from two different suppliers, because the first set was "wrong" and later he used the compression rings from one set with the oil rings from the other. LOL I also checked what main bearings he ordered - standard size again. I can't check the crank before I take the engine apart, but I don't think the crank would still be requiring standard bearings. I am 99% sure these are wrong too. So too many issues to look at. I just decided to rebuild the other engine and swap them. Maybe one day I will find time to look at this one...
