Hi Mike, Thanks for your videos, I am currently in the process of restoring a 67 Porsche and your attention to detail in the videos is a most valuable resource. I have just had a fun weekend of cleaning and painting suspension.
Hello Ron! Its in the works=) Ive been sidelined with some family matters taking priority Project looking good though and will be uploading soon Thanks for your patience and enthusiasm !
Hello Jeff Thank you and wishing you also the very best in the New Year! The support and enthusiasm from everyone really makes it a pleasure See you in the New Year with more to come=)
Mike! Such a treat to get another great video from you. For someone not well acquainted with this level of technicality, it is fascinating to watch! Hope you take a nice break and enjoy the holidays for a bit. Looking forward to the progress to come in 2019.
It's odd how sloppy these couplers are fresh from the factory, right? I ordered one especially because I thought the one in the car was worn out; in the end I just ended up re-using the old one. Once again great progress on the car. This is truly a labor of love!
Hi Feesh yes you are right about the play..its seems weird but I'm sure its engineered this way for some reason I cant imagine.. Maybe it takes slight pressure of the shift rod inside the transmission ..easier on the synchros engaging??..Ill definitely look closely at this when digging into the transmission
Hi Mike - how come you bought a new coupler instead of restoring your old one? Cheers mate... Can't wait to see your 911 driving video soon ... I'm rebuilding a 1969 912 in Perth, Western Australia and your videos have been a huge help...
@@MikesRestorations Thanks for your reply Mike. Just a word of warning for anyone about to do this. If you have the handbrake and heater cables installed you'll have a hard time squeezing the carrier passed. I ended up taking it off and pushing the rod through naked and reinstalling the carrier once inside the shifter gap. Take the good with the bad and don't worry about which one is coming next.
Mike,I am so glad I came across your videos, I am very impressed. Based on one of your videos, it looks like you go to McFadden for hardware. I am a Las Vegas local (Henderson, NV) and am restoring a 356 SC and 1966 912. I would like to meet you and chat about my project. Could we meet?
Hi Mike, how are you? i changed a shift rod bushings but now it works a little bit hard, is ok or the shift rod must work free like in your video? Thanks a lot. Michele.
Hello Michele I think shift rod bushing should feel snug and will probably break in after awhile. In the video Im not hooked up to transmission which might give the appearance of easier shifting. If its feels too tight maybe some more grease?
Thank you for another instructive video. I forwarde your view on using different types of grease between different materials to my son, who is into restoring classic British motorcycles. Right no a BSA DBD34 Gold Star. We don't want him to use synthetic grease between metal-to-metal, do we? I don't understand the difference myself, but if you recommend it, I take your word for it. Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year!
Hi Anders Thank you and Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to you too! Wow restoring classic motorcycles sounds like a super fun hobby!! Regarding some of the grease variations..Modern synthetic is a good lubricating agent for metal surfaces however Petroleum based grease tends to operates more smoothly.. Synthetic has a tendency to feel as if the surfaces are too clean and a bit gritty but still can be used and hold up very well under all conditions. Lots of luck to your son with his restorations!
Another great video, I can’t tell you how useful these are. One question regarding this one at the end you show lifting the handbrake lever 4 clicks then the pads are just skimming the discs . So basically the handbrake isn’t engaged at 4 clicks ?
Thank you Bike Im so glad they are helpful. Yes that is correct..How ever not necessarily would 4 clicks tighten the drums enough to hold the car. It's a starting point and may need to be adjusted with a higher pull up depending on how the drum brakes settle it after driving. If the shoes to drums are not fully releasing then more slack will need to be added. Also over time the cables will stretch. It is something that needs careful adjustment once you are rolling
Hi Mike, how are you? I would like to ask you something, I change a shift rod bushings, but now work a little bit hard, it is normal or shift rod have to work free like in your video. Thanks a lot. Michele.
Hello Diogo Thank you its beginning to really take shape now! I use POR 15 on specific parts and areas of the car. Its great on suspension parts, brackets if they are not being zinc plated and interior sheet metal that will be cover with carpet. All other areas will be painted with 2K finishing products or plating of some sort. Its a super product used in the range of these areas
@@MikesRestorations Hello, Thanks for the answer Yes I have had the opportunity to be able to use the product, it is indeed an excellent product In many cases it requires care in the preparation of the metal to receive the paint, with the products POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and POR-15 Metal Prep In case the parts are blasted it becomes easier Continuation of a good work
Yes Its quite product for sure and definitely all in the preperation What amazes me is its hardness for a single K product.. almost like a porcelain coating
Thanks Mike, an amazing video! Thanks for the videos this year! You must be super excited as the project is getting close to be a complete car. How long do you think it will take to complete from now?
Hi Viko You are very welcome its been a pleasure=) Not sure how long until turning the key but depending on how much time I can devote to her I would think very close to a complete car by years end It sure is getting exciting Thanks for always tuning in and best wishes to you in the New Year!
my 1985 911 gas pedal is sticking, it hangs up and idles high (20K) until i either tap the pedal gently or reach down and pull the pedal back up manually. Could it be the throttle rod bushings are disintegrated , missing or out of place? I did replace the bushings at the pedal and at the trans, so they are somewhat new... Im, told it wouldn't be a spring because it wouldn't "hang up", it simply wouldn't come up at all. any thoughts before opening up the tunnel again? thanks great video!!
Hello J Gurni I would have a look near the floor board where the pedal linkage hooks to the throttle rod that runs the length of the tunnel. That spot right there is real iffy to make a smooth throttle return without hanging up. You would need to remove the wooded floor board and try to get your head down next to the pedal where all the ball sockets are.. My guess is dry or worn ball socket or even rubbing the tunnel in that location. If you have checked everything else you can disconnect the pedal linkage and try manually pulling the throttle rod to see if you are able to feel anything inside the tunnel. Good Luck!
Mike’s Restorations is it possible to change the ball socket, if it is indeed worn, from the throttle rod or is it all one part? How can I tell if it’s worn? Thanks for your help.. it’s been making me crazy!!
Thank you It could very well be me on the audio..I use an iPhone for doing the camera and sound..the mic is the weak spot though for this basic video technology.. Perhaps one day I will invest in a more professional set up! Need more time=)
Hello Gustavo Im running a couple weeks behind going into this New Year as some family matters taking priority however I have one in the works and as editing is complete will upload soon!
Hello Adam I use several suppliers I can recommend, Genuine Porsche parts I usually source from San Diego Porsche online or Sunset Porsche out of Oregon. Stoddard, Asse sales, Sierra Madre, and Ebay all all great sources for parts. I have tried other sources but have had the best luck and customer care with these guys. Good Luck!
Awesome, thank you for the reply. Super excited to tear into this car and see what I’m up against. Great videos, by the way, I spent a good chunk of my day watching your resto series
Hi!, again, Mike ... Hope you had a great Xmas and New Year's ... Keep up the great work you're doing on an awesome series. Am still working on my '69 911T and have a couple of questions. The first is how did you finish the insides of the doors? POR 15? Epoxy sealer? Covered with an appropriate topcoat? The second is which fasteners are you using for the fender attachment to the body? The original 9 mmkay Allen screws into the original 'clip' single thread nut or did you go with a 9mm Allen screw with washers (flat & lock) with a 9 mm nut? I know the reason Porsche used the original 'clip' nut but did you reuse/cad plate them? ... Once again, an awesome series ... Jerry Endler (poppy@brand22.com)
Hi Jerry Thanks and yes a super holiday and off to a great year! Inside the doors were paint stripped as best as possible but very gooey mess..Then media blasted with 80 grit glass bead. Finally I used small spray cans of wurth undercoating to get inside and coat them best as possible followed up with the shutz gun. The space is tight in there but is possible to do something. POR 15 would also work very well in that area because you can use brush. The fender bolts and speed nuts are original with a couple of new replacements from Porsche..re-plating the Porsche replacements so that all the finish matches.. For the most part they were all in very nice condition. Also using the original rectangle washers re-plated. Will be doing a video on these fenders when time to reinstall. Good Luck!
