1970 TR6 - Part 29 - Rebuilding Clutch and Brake Cylinders

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Before installing the brake and clutch cylinders, lets rebuild them. It would have made sense if I checked if I had all the rebuilding kits first but... turned out I was missing one :)
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15 дек 2023

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Комментарии : 25

@BruceBoschek 7 месяцев назад

The nuts are BS Whitworth. You need a set, or a genuine Whitworth adjustable 🙂. Another very worthwhile and instructive video! Thanks, Elin1

@gerardcianciulli5881 7 месяцев назад

Nice 🎉5medicationxx Jerry gndd

@iceman9678 7 месяцев назад

Merry Christmas!🌲

@davidberlanny3308 7 месяцев назад

Just wish you a very merry Christmas and a happy New year. All the best and Feliz Navidad from Spain!!

@tomswindler64 7 месяцев назад

I like the detail you go thru in explaining what your doing.just continue doing what your doing and just keep having fun,yea right,great video as always 👍👍👍😎😎😎

@iceman9678 7 месяцев назад

Glad you didn't give up on that slave cylinder!

@alexanderduncan4302 7 месяцев назад

Elin, see if you can get a tube of ATE assembly grease it’s blue & German ( so you know it’s good) Regards, Sandy 🔧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

@johnmoruzzi7236 7 месяцев назад

I think the honing tool in the clutch slave cylinder was a bit too severe... the pressure from the compressed springs in the narrow bore must have been high and scratched more than necessary ? I would have soaked the piston / bore in good old traditional 3-in-1 oil first before bashing it out, and then steadily polished the inside with steel wool or 800 grit paper and more 3-in-1, repeating the process steadily softens and removes surface corrosion on items like that....

@lordleonusa 7 месяцев назад

In my experience, Alloy cylinders are ALWAYS better than Cast Iron cylinders, for a variety of reasons.

@philtucker1224 7 месяцев назад

At the intro, I loved this car in Nardo Gray. (It’s a shame everyone feels obliged to always go with the classic TR colours..)

@omphaloskeptic4989 7 месяцев назад

Elin, I've decided to start videoing my bench work, that way, I too, will be able to find the pieces when they go flying around my shop! lol

@pda49184 7 месяцев назад

Great video Elin.. The one fluid I never enjoyed dealing with was DOT-4 . There wasn't much in the way of rubber gloves when I was working in the trade.. In fact apart from welding, the waring of gloves was considered unmanly. 😅 I always swapped out my brake fluid in my own vehicles for DOT-5 when it became available .. Hope you and the family have a great Christmas..

@oboeviolin 7 месяцев назад

You need your Whitworth wrenches! Merry Christmas

@johnmalone407 7 месяцев назад

getting there ! Thanks Elin.

@williamlucas8793 7 месяцев назад

I would suggest attempting to disassemble and clean the old switch. I have done this with success, but not on that model year switch in particular. Based on my experience, the rebuilt electrical components are far, far, superior to the aftermarket versions.

@philtucker1224 7 месяцев назад

Well no one is going to question your experience Bill, even if your quality has been questionable occasionally..

@lordleonusa 7 месяцев назад

Good explanation of the dual circuit brake system. I am only familiar with the single circuit system. I did rebuild my Lockheed Brake Vacuum Servo and as far as I know, there is only one company supplying the rebuild kit.

@philtucker1224 7 месяцев назад

(I know Moss Motors were talking about plans to manufacture their own copy brake parts) but the CEO put his foot down and it all came to a grinding halt..

@stevewalden3814 7 месяцев назад

I don't know the technical requirements for the switch you need, but eBay had about 1,000 (new) choices - starting at about $1. Good luck!

@alanm.4298 7 месяцев назад

Excellent video, but... Not sure I would put that much work into the clutch slave cylinder. A brwnd new replacement only costs $20. That's an aftermarket brand, though. The master cylinders for TR6 aren't too expensive, either. An aftermarket brake master cylinder is only $47. An OEM (TRW/Lucas) is $150. An aftermarket clutch master cylinder is $90. All prices are Moss Motors, where the OEM brake master is currently back ordered, while the other options are currently available there. Might be different elsewhere.

@redfoxclassics 7 месяцев назад

I’d tend to agree. Plus with all these cylinders having sat so long with remnants of fluid in them, especially given the state of the clutch slave and the grit in the brake master, I’d not be confident they’d last all that long.

@truequan 7 месяцев назад

My 75 has a non working hazard flasher and horn. Looking at the 75 wiring schematic, could my non working horn be the same issue as the pull out hazard? Your training sessions always seem to mimmick my personal issues.

@philtucker1224 7 месяцев назад

Sorry your’s aren’t working Quan but honestly, I don’t give a hoot..

@lordleonusa 7 месяцев назад

I do not like those plastic pipes thst connect the clutch Master to clutch Slave cylinders, they are prone to failure

@papabash 7 месяцев назад

I think its great showing us all how these components operate ,but i would have gone with a new master and clutch slave. Time , labor and parts are just not worth the end result. Brake fluid alone is very corrosive now add moisture and you have a recipe for rust and scoring of metal. Honing will change the size of the bore and could result in a soft pedal or worse The OEM brake booster can be re built by shops that specialize in that you need the equipment to open the case to access & replace the damaged diaphragm . Please don't get me wrong here i love your work and have watched all your videos and learned so much from you ! this is just my 2 cents