Beautiful and inspirational. My conversion of my Ericson 29 (notch stern, not lazarette) will look nothing so professional but I hope it will get me back out on the water.
brilliant. I had a Halcyon 23 with an inboard well and it is much much better than an inboard engine. For maintenance alone...then there's the weight and space saving!!! great boat ....great job!!!! like the anchor roller too!!!
Yes it's always cheaper to start with a boat that already is in the best condition you can find and one that the previous owner has already repaired/upgraded if it was done properly and with the same choices you would make when fitting out but those are rare finds and sometimes you have to just work with what you have.
Lovely boat . I hope in two weeks to own a similar type boat smaller 27 feet of the 1970 era 3/4 length keel skeg rudder 10 HP SAAB diesel inboard does 15 mpg USA .However spares for old engine like this might force me to rip it out and do similar outboard replacement .The boats back region is similar to yours so glad I saw your convention if I need to do that .I was thinking I would do outboard bracket of the stern but your system is better .I will update you . It is a pity the old Yamaha 8 HP gasoline paraffin engine of the 1970 era is no longer made . It is far safer to carry mostly Paraffin than gasoline. I was surprised you got Nearly six knots ~ 7 mph from the 6 HP outboard at full tilt but suspect your mpg will suffer more like ~7 mpg at full tilt . For best mpg and life span for motor 70% gas is recommended regime for outboards and should return with luck 4 knots and maybe ~12 mpg best case. Here in communist controlled high tax EU we pay double the price for gasoline than the USA . That means in the EU we prefer diesel inboards most every time
I learnt to sail on an Alberg 22, then ended up owning the boat again about 10 years later.. Sadly the owner before me let the upkeep go and I ended up having to scrap it. My dad has the mast planted in his front yard as a flagpole. I currently live about 5mins down the road from there the boat was built.
Wonderful ! Very inspiring ! Had to do a lot of work to fit a composting toilet ? Seems like they are a little too big for the available space. I am looking to do that on #630. Keep on the good work !
Thanks. Yes, to fit the Airhead required we cut a notch out of the interior liner and add a small extension to the inboard end of the floor. The original door wouldn't open all the way but we wanted to replace that with a curtain anyway. Otherwise, fits fine. James
An outboard motor in a well with a 25" extra-long shaft like this SailPro motor, instead of a standard 20" long shaft, does a good job of not sucking air in choppy waters. Not quite as good as the lower prop position of an inboard motor but close. James
everyone thinks it is too posh to ask but I am a good ole boy, how much did all this cost your client and did he save money by not buying something newer and up to date? the work you have done is unbelievable and so well done, it truly looks like a new and with the times boat now, in fact you have added a few features, the big boys should pay attention and add to their lines.
+Brad Hayman Thanks. Although I'm not comfortable discussing my clients finances, the cost is significant, which is why you won't see many boats of this vintage upgraded this way. The alternative is you either have to have the skills and time to do the work yourself or you're not likely to find an equivalent boat on the market. People restore and modify these old classics partly because similar boats are not being produced today and if you could commission one it would cost much more than this project.
I am wondering how many hours of work this refit was? You and I seem to have similar taste and ideas about the ideal boat. If I had the chance to get a very cheap Alberg 30 one that needs work anyway) and let you refit it similar to this one (not including sails or rigging) how much would it cost for you to do it for me? How long to complete? would you recommend exterior hull mounted chain plates while you are at it?
This was an extensive rebuild because the boat came to us in rough shape. I think the work took about 6 months nearly full time for my wife and I. Refit costs vary from boat to boat and what the owner has on his job list. We're not taking on any more work at this time though. This channel has many DIY videos of the work we've done so that people can either do certain jobs themselves or show the video to a local contractor to have them do the work. I like exterior chain plates in general but normally don't see the need to do that as long as the originals are replaced with something larger and the knees are strengthened.
Kianna Jo The outboard well in a lazarette locker works best on boats similar to the A30 with a large overhanging transom and rudder post placed far enough forward for clearance. It also works on my similar design but smaller Pearson Triton, except I had to modify the bulkhead to fit. James
Since they were good quality and best price I found I bought all my trailers over the years from sailtrailers.com/ They're located in Columbus, GA. You can ask them to quote for an A30 with same trailer specs as James Baldwin uses and they'll know exactly the features and dimensions you need. You can see the trailer details at the beginning of this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i97n5rG9gU0.html
That motor housing fabrication took a lot of guts. I think I would have gone electric I am not sure why we don't see more hybrid systems. A generator could provide electricity while under power and AC while not. Seems like a lot of work to take out that compass and admire your finished product. I am not as handy so I bought a hunter 260 in very good condition. Then I bought several hundred bucks worth of teak, VHF, and even a 12v TV.
A hybrid generator/EP system using built-in diesel generator is becoming more common on larger yachts but probably costs $20K and is too tight a fit for this boat. And an outboard is more easily repairable or replaceable than having some electronic component go out and take down the whole system. The other option of a small portable gas generator that can push the boat around 3 knots in a calm when the batteries are finished is a common DIY EP system used on these size boats but we chose not to go that way on this boat for several reasons. Here's a video of a friend with a Columbia 29 with that type setup: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EoDakonESz8.html
Would an electric drive worked in that back engine well? Seems like this boat would be the perfect electric conversion. I have the opportunity to possibly own a Alberg 30, but will need work.
You should be able to fit an electric outboard in that locker and the center bilge has space for several more batteries if you cut away any liner in the way. The Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 T is the right size but if you only want minimal propulsion then you could get the 2.0. If you find a different model that works I hope you'll let us know because I'm interested in doing EP myself one day.
No I haven't seen any problem on the 6 or 7 A30s I've worked on such as swelling of the fiberglass from rusting ballast. Apparently they are well encapsulated.
We quote for individual jobs based on $50/hr for myself and my wife working together. Net profit varies from job to job and boat to boat. After all our expenses not sure what it is but enough to keep us working.
+lrrcew The teak looks good because it's still new. It has no varnish or other treatment yet but the new owner plans to use some type of coating on it. Lately I've given up varnishing ext teak and don't mind letting it go gray as it ages. I wash it with TSP and water and use teak brightener (oxalic acid) occasionally to refresh the golden brown new teak color. People who don't want to let it go gray and weathered and don't want the frequent maintenance of oil varnish often use Cetol Natural Teak or one of the new teak sealer treatments or just apply teak oil.
I've copied below the reasoning as I laid out in a recent Good Old Boat magazine article. Although a diesel does have its advantages here are some of the advantages of a properly designed tilt-up outboard well on a suitable boat: 1. Less cost up front and for future maintenance. 2. Less weight and wasted space. 3. Reduced complexity, which makes for easier future motor replacement or repairs. You can take the motor to the repair shop instead of bringing a mechanic and all his tools to the boat. 4. There is no fixed prop to snag fish traps and nets under sail. 5. If the prop ever gets fouled or damaged you just tilt it up and clear it or replace it by reaching over the transom. 6. Sailing performance is noticeably improved by less drag and turbulence once you remove the inboard’s fixed prop and seal off the prop aperture between keel and rudder. The rudder will also become more efficient. 7. You have the ability to swivel motor for side thrust when entering a tight marina slip. 8. An outboard well puts an end to inevitable diesel fuel and oil spilled into the bilge and their odors. 9. The self-contained outboard motor reduces holes underwater-no engine cooling water seacock and plumbing or prop shaft in a leaky stuffing box. 10. Because you no longer need to access a diesel exhaust and prop shaft and all the rest, you can now seal off all the cockpit lockers from the bilge, giving you the added safety of collision bulkheads and less chance of flooding. 11. There is no need for a separate engine starting battery and charging circuit. 12. The motor does not radiate unwanted heat into the boat all night when you try to sleep in the summer or in the tropics after motoring. 13. A smaller motor has a smaller environmental impact. There are also intangible benefits to downsizing to a small self-contained motor located within an outboard well. The more limited range and thrust of a small outboard teaches you to become a better sailor. You will find that as your sailing skills and experience in passage planning increase, there will come a corresponding decrease in the horsepower you need. After weighing the relative merits of outboards and diesels, each sailor chooses a system based his or her own needs. Most cruising sailors are not going to switch from a diesel inboard to an outboard well conversion. However, if you don’t have unrealistic expectations and are looking for an alternative way to bring back to life a suitable older classic sailboat, the improved outboard well is worth considering. Perhaps more of those neglected but worthy old boats languishing in forgotten corners of boatyards because they have a blown or ancient inboard engine will now be rescued from the scrap yard.
Yes the stainless opening portlights are from Newfound Metals. Here's a link to an installation video of the bronze versions on another boat: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5x9EWCGHIho.html
Adequate means different things to different people. After sailing engineless for years, I'm quite happy to be what most sailors would call "underpowered." As you saw in the video the 6hp moves the boat at 5.5 k in calm, flat water. Speed will drop to around 3-4 knots in 15-20 knot headwinds and choppy water and drop further the worse the conditions get. That's when the sails need to be used or at the very least pinching while motorsailing with mainsail alone. That's not adequate for some sailors, I know. The boat has been on the hard in New England all winter so will have to wait for the owner's reports after some more sailing/motoring time.
Thanks for the reply, we have an old 28' lancer that has a factory lazerette. I put an old merc 6hp on it last year just so we could get in and out of the marina. While it was fine for forward motion and would push the boat close to hull speed the reverse was very poor and made it difficult to get in and out of our slip if there was any amount of wind on the stern. I looked at the Sailpro from tohatsu and am trying to decide between it and the 9.8 hp tohatsu. The deciding factor may be the electric start on the 9.8 vs pull only on the sailpro as the configuration of the lazerette makes it difficult to pull the rope so electric would be nice to have.
Chadd Thompson The 9.8 will give you much better performance in reverse. The SailPro 6 is quite weak in reverse, if that's important to you. On most boats you can add an access hatch in the lazarette bulkhead to reach the starting rope, as I did on another A30 outboard well that was non-tilt. James
Thanks for the info. Reverse is important for us as our marina isn't really sailboat friendly, it is more setup for power boats. So it is difficult to get in and out of the slips.
Chadd Thompson The 6hp will make it easier to get out of slips than a larger inboard unless you have currents because you have side thrust. Anything over about 1.5 knots of current that you have to motor against in reverse is a problem. In most cases it's not an issue. James
If the dinghy is kept on the coachroof between mast and dodger there isn't clearance to place the lower end of the boom vang at the base of the mast. In that case you either move the vang side to side on a stanchion base as needed and adjust it frequently when adjusting the main sheet. Or you can use dual vangs with ends led aft to the cockpit for less running around at the cost of more clutter. Alternatively, you can use the vang in the standard way at the base of the mast and keep the dinghy on the foredeck between mast and windlass. That gives better visibility from the cockpit and allows you to open the forward hatch slightly in light conditions and still keep spray out. I use the later method now on my own boat.
No alternator, no hot water, no cabin heat, inboard is more seaworthy, inboard is faster, inboard is more efficient, but I like the idea for some reason.
There is a small alternator on the outboard but it is tiny output compared to an inboard. Even though there are several advantages to a inboard the list of advantages of an outboard in a properly designed well include: 1. Less cost up front and for future maintenance. 2. Less weight and wasted space. 3. Reduced complexity, which makes for easier future motor replacement or repairs. You can take the motor to the repair shop instead of bringing a mechanic and all his tools to the boat. 4. There is no fixed prop to snag fish traps and nets under sail. 5. If the prop ever gets fouled or damaged you just tilt it up and clear it or replace it by reaching over the transom. 6. Sailing performance is noticeably improved by less drag and turbulence once you remove the inboard’s fixed prop and seal off the prop aperture between keel and rudder. The rudder will also become more efficient. 7. You have the ability to swivel motor for side thrust when entering a tight marina slip. 8. An outboard well puts an end to inevitable diesel fuel and oil spilled into the bilge and their odors. 9. The self-contained outboard motor reduces holes underwater-no engine cooling water seacock and plumbing or prop shaft in a leaky stuffing box. 10. Because you no longer need to access a diesel exhaust and prop shaft and all the rest, you can now seal off all the cockpit lockers from the bilge, giving you the added safety of collision bulkheads and less chance of flooding. 11. There is no need for a separate engine starting battery and charging circuit. 12. The motor does not radiate unwanted heat into the boat all night when you try to sleep in the summer or in the tropics after motoring. 13. A smaller motor has a smaller environmental impact. 14. The more limited range and thrust of a small outboard teaches you to become a better sailor. You will find that as your sailing skills and experience in passage planning increase, there will come a corresponding decrease in the horsepower you need.
When faced with replacing an old broken inboard engine some sailors prefer an outboard motor protected within a well for lower cost, simple, lighter, less clutter and wasted space, no threat of sinking from holes below waterline, ability for side thrust and to tilt up to easily clear a fouled prop, no prop drag under sail. More is explained in this article: atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/
Unfortunately, our outboard well conversion is not a cheap alternative to keeping an existing Atomic 4 unless you do the work yourself. We charge $4,400 labor plus about $500 materials, not including removing the old engine and accessories, which sometimes the owners do themselves, or the cost of the new motor, or the optional job of filling in the old prop aperture. We're not taking on any more jobs right now but I do have full size paper patterns and instructions available to buy for $75 in case you wanted to do it yourself or find someone local to do the job. For further info you can email me through atomvoyages.com
Really nice work you did there! Well done and i'm sure the cost is justified. What made me wonder was that this is just a 6 horsepower engine is that correct? Is it enough for a boat of that size? Because the 30ft boats i've seen so far all have around 20hp engines.
Thanks for your comment. Most sailors would feel the 6hp motor is too underpowered, and for most sailors it is. Some experienced sailors prefer the simplicity, low cost, and lesser weight of a smaller motor and accept the trade-offs. I have another video on my channel showing a 9.8hp installation and that should be plenty even for those who expect to motorsail often. I doubt you'd ever need more than that.
Wow thanks for your fast reply! I guess i'm one of those who'd rather take the slightly more powerful 9.8hp engine just to be sure. If i ever get to renovate/reconstruct i'll be sure to get in contact with you. So long i hope you're doing great and have a nice day. :-)
This is funny, I read your book. It's one of my favorites. First time I saw one of your videos I thought "well he obviously stole the name atom"... finally today I looked up atomvoyages.com low and behold its my fav author... small world. Thanks for the book, and the videos. Nice to put a voice and face to the book now!!
I would love to know how long this took from start to finish and the total restoration cost. Not wanting to get into anyone's business but it would be so nice just to know what it took in both time and money.
+Don Harden My wife and I worked on this boat part time for over one year. The labor involved was probably equivalent to two people full-time for about 5 months.
I could tell that you put a lot of time and energy into it. I thought it would have been more like 4 people full time for 2 years. excellent work, you are a craftsman!
Nice job and its great to have it on its own trailer. I just finished the refit of my 31' but its on a cradle. So I built a lifter to put cradle and boat on a flatbed trailer. Here is a time laps vid of it in operation. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XmHoSpbx4gE.html
