sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Ford Emery I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Very nice job, and kudos to the glass work. Very nice. I've seen boats where the engine has been removed in lieu of more storage and an outboard engine setup. From the maint standpoint, noise, prop shaft, etc, it's a win-win mod. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely beautiful work. Looks like a custom built boat. sailboat or sportfish. which it is. Im just beginning to re-do a 34" sportfish interior. Have gutted it down to bare hull so far. All of your work is pure function. and I will strive to implement a few of your ideas. Simplicity and function. Just what I'm after. Thanks for the video.
After all that hard work, I sure hope you intend to keep and enjoy the boat. After I built my boat some people asked if I was going to sell it. No way, They are going to have to bury it with me when that time comes. Until then, I'm going to enjoy it !!
Beautiful work! I have a 1972 Tartan 26 that I hope to start reworking within the year. with a very similar approach to what you have here. The boat originally has twin quarterberths, a split galley, two settees, and then a head on centerline in the forepeak, but I want to change it quite a bit, so there is a galley spanning the rear of the cabin, then two settee berths (further aft than the original ones and higher), then head on centerline, and a larger forepeak. The boat came with a Kermath Sea Pup 5 hp inboard, but I have removed that and intend to use an outboard instead. The transom is slightly reversed, and I am thinking of mounting the outboard on a carriage that rides on two traveler tracks, so instead of pivoting the outboard, I would just draw it out of the water up the track with block and tackle. The transom (think small Tartan 10 shape) is large enough that the outboard fits within the outline. The one big disadvantage I can see is that the outboard is exposed to the weather. The center aisle under the cockpit will hold the battery bank and tools, topped with a Fliptail 6 folding dinghy.
Before I added an outboard well to my own Pearson Triton, I used to have the motor hanging on a similar carriage and two traveler tracks on the transom. I couldn't find anything off the shelf so I cobbled it together myself out of parts salvaged from a boatyard dumpster in Trinidad. Though a center-line mount gives the best performance as the boat rolls or heels, I had to mount mine on the port corner to allow for the center-line windvane self-steering.
It will be a challenge, but I want to try to nest them all together on center. Hopefully prop wash won't be an issue for the oar. I find that I motor very little with my Montgomery 17, and the times on the Tartan that I would want to use the windvane (coupled to an autopilot to provide input to the oar) while motoring shouldn't be often, maybe in a flat calm.
Beautiful work. I am impressed by your modification design skills and craftsmanship. I hope you will not mind if I shamelessly incorporate elements of your design into my own project. I just bought a highly distressed (but very cheap) 1972 Alberg 30 (hull # 497) which I am in the process of rebuilding and re-fitting. The vessel was dis-masted under sail in the Atlantic and all the rigging lost overboard (as well as sustaining damage to the fiberglass chainplate attachment knees and the plates themselves). The dis-masted hull was further damaged during hurricane Sandy when the adjacent vessel tied alongside was dis-masted and the debris fell across the bow pulpit, driving the stanchion bases downward through the deck and allowing water ingress to the coring material in that area (as well as around the already-damaged chainplates), requiring extensive repair of the decking in those two places. The hull below the waterline is in good shape and free from defects. In the interior, I am modifying the forward v-berth in a manner very similar to your modification, starting by cutting out the fiberglass liner and reducing the size of the chain locker by moving the bulkhead 12" forward, and then progressing from there in a similar manner to your design, except that I am making the port-side locker into a recessed padded seat and backrest, with the berth and cushions arrayed diagonally across the remaining space within the v-berth. I am replacing the original Atomic 4 gasoline engine (which works just fine) with a diesel engine of similar horsepower. I am also enlarging the engine compartment by modifying the ice box and galley cabinetry on either side in order to more easily accommodate such an engine swap and to have sufficient room to install an engine-driven high pressure air compressor to fill scuba tanks with. I have also been toying with the idea of removing the starboard-side berth from the salon and instead locating the galley and a bench seat and table in that space, using what remains of the ice box and present galley (after enlargement of the engine compartment) for storage space. I also admire your videography skills. Perhaps I'll be inspired to take some videos of the sailboat modifications I am making and put them up on my sorely neglected RU-vid channel which only contains videos of my sorely neglected ultralight. (my other toy)
drifterpilot Thanks for your message. You've got some interesting plans for your refit and a big job ahead. You can email me directly through atomvoyages.com if you have any questions and also to update me on your progress when you have time. James
Yes I know the theory is that you shouldn't load up the ends of the boat unnecessarily or performance will suffer. It's 375 lbs and it is just far enough aft and low that the effect when beating is noticeable but not extreme. The tank is not always full so you have the option to carry less or just expect as you draw down the water during a passage that performance gets better. On any point of sail other than beating there is no issue anyway. It's good to have the option of taking on more water when needed. We sailed this boat offshore from New England to Georgia starting with a full tank, including some beating, and there was no problem. I have a similar 43 gal tank under the v-berth of my 28' Pearson Triton and sailed it around the world without feeling there was too much hobby-horse effect.
@@atomvoyager I was wondering something along the same lines as Ricardo. When you do the really nice outboard conversion and fill the integral water tank, does the waterline change? Thanks. edit: The batteries, i forgot about the batteries! They'd help!
I'm sure you know that every bit of weight added or removed affect the waterline and trim so it's a question of how noticeable it is visually or in sailing performance. The weight of the outboard motor and locker modifications, fuel and added batteries is still less than original motor and accessories but that is compensated by other cruising gear such as solar panels aft, extra anchors and fuel and water cans stowed in cockpit lockers versus whatever else is stowed in v-berth area, etc. You can shift the gear around to keep the boat in trim. So yes a full tank forward causes the bow to sit lower on her lines, but only slightly and temporarily until you use some of the water and that depends on how much and where your other gear is stiowed and the equipment you've added. It's hard to define in exact terms but is easily manageable in practice.
This is INSANELY clean work all around. Great stuff. I wonder why you got rid of the ice box; you didn't mention other refrigeration unless I missed it.
+terrulian The icebox is badly insulated and better suited to a storage locker. The owner plans to use a portable cooler in the cockpit when needed or add a portable Engel or Coolfreeze freezer/fridge set in cockpit or forward cabin. I've installed several of these in other boats and rarely use built-in coolers or fridges on these smaller boats.
I used black Dow 795. It takes just under one tube per deadlight. I covered it in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XaRWHpz6fNg.html Here's one supplier: www.emisupply.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=34720
Are the bulkheads glassed in or did you paint them? I love how functional your overhauls are. Minimalistic but not to a degree where they lack anything. If you were to put in a holding tank instead of the composting head; where would you put it in this build?
All bulkheads are glassed in, often on both sides and at least one side where access is difficult. I like to glass in everything, even cabinetry and secondary bulkheads to strengthen the overall structure of deck and hull. If the boat required a holding tank I would do as I've done on other boats by building an integral tank (similar to my water tanks) into the aft port v-berth locker.
BEAUTIFUL WORK! I'm refitting a Pearson Triton and plan to use many of the ideas you've described here. Very very nice job. Wow. Just hope mine comes close. Questions- when filling the narrow spaces in the bilge, did you leave hollow? Fill with foam? What did you use for interior paint? Is all trim mahogany and how did you finish the trim?
+myvidlocker Thanks for the comments and good luck on your Triton project. Yes, I poured two-part expanding foam in the narrow keel slot behind a piece of epoxy coated fiberglassed plywood. Interior paint was 2000E epoxy barrier coat for some lockers and bilge, and Brightsides with flattening agent over Prekote primer for the rest. The Brightsides tends to gather mold so I've switched to Petit EZ Cabincoat latex off-white. Varnish was mostly Epiphanes rubbed effect on panels and regular high gloss for trim. If you watch the Atom refit video you'll see I added an aft bilge water tank, which has worked out well. On another A30 I'm currently constructing a center bilge water tank. You can email me thru my website if you have more questions.
looks wonderful. A question, without an engine to produce energy, how will you cope with cloudy days where the solar panels don't charge the batteries? For long ocean crossing it can happen. But again, it is a wonderful refurnishing job! Congratulations!
Thanks Ricardo, The reason the system works even when faced with multiple cloudy days is because the two solar mounts can be swiveled to get every last bit of sun available when needed, coupled with a large battery bank and minimal electrical appliances. If faced with many sunless days, electric use can be conserved since there is no electric autopilot, freezer, large plotter or other energy hogs aboard. The same system worked well throughout the second half of Atom's 2nd circumnavigation. In addition, the outboard motor alternator puts out a small amount of charge current, though I wouldn't expect that would be needed. James
atomvoyager Wonferful job! Congratulation! Project season about to begin here in Canada too. What is the exact size (model) of a port lights. Most people use 3x10 on Alberg, too small for my taste, yours looks perfect! Thank you. A30 hull 602.
AMAZING JOB! just a few questions.... you added solar and a wind vane ..why did you remove and not replace refrigeration? seems like that is the only thing from keeping you off the grid.... kudos on your glassing skills.....one question that I hate to ask but must....what did this refit cost in $$ and labor time? I have been working on a cheoy lee luders 36 for years
k myers Thanks. If you read down the comments you'll see I explained the amount of work involved. As for refrigeration, the boat only had an icebox. The owner may add a portable Coolfreeze dual voltage unit if he feels the need later. They only draw 3 amps with roughly 50 percent duty cycle in warm climates so he could run one several days at a time with his two solar panels. If he adds a third bendable panel to set on top a future dodger or bimini he may be able to run the fridge indefinitely at anchor or at sea. Here's a link to one: www.amazon.com/dp/B00IK19VF6?psc=1 James
That may be true. At the time, this Sunforce was the least expensive one I found with a meter. Cost about $100. It's rated for 30 amp so I'm hoping the max loads of 6-8 amps from two small solar panels means it won't be overworked and will last longer. Time will tell. It does have plenty of 5 star reviews on amazon, but you never know. The new version (68032 is down to $80). Hopefully the quality didn't go down as well. I see a Renogy 30 amp model now available for $50 but don't have any experience with this one. James
atomvoyager I've heard one of the better charge controllers is Morning Star PWM Tristar, 45 amp, about $147.00. Also Morning Star makes a pure sign wave 300 Watt inverter that is one of the best.
Because the footwell floor is only a couple inches above the waterline at best, an above waterline drain will not work well. To drain aft through the transom or outboard well locker is same problem. It could be could done if you raised the floor a couple inches and reversed the angle to drain aft but that would reduce the already low headroom under the boom, dodger and bimini and didn't seem worth the trouble.
The outboard well modification in the past cost about $4,500. I'm not taking on anymore jobs this year but do provide instructions and full size paper patterns for DIY if contacted through atomvoyages.com
Thanks. I wouldn't be comfortable discussing the owner's expenses, but can say the work took the equivalent of two persons full time for at least four months. Many details were not visible in the video and some of the modifications would not be every sailors choice so a similar rebuild could be done for less if different choices were made.
On this boat we've used a combination of plwoods (1/2" mostly and some 3/4" of a cabinet grade ply or marine ply) and cherry trim on the interior except where we reused the original teak and mahogany.
@@atomvoyager Thanks! I'm looking for a cheap alternative to teak. Well, cheaper anyway. I like the mahogany but I think I like the cherry for the trim. I like the "stiffness" idea regarding the bulkheads. Not sure about waste touching the boat though. It would be a scary to have to change directions afterward if I decided to go for a composting head later or wanted more water to travel with. If not a bigger mess then at least mentally undoable :) I would never trust a locker that had waste near it no matter how many barrier coats I used ... shivers... I saw a post that was fairly judgy regarding a hole in the boat where the engine is. I'm with you on that all the way. I want an engine for coming into a dockage or mooring. Other than that I'm not in a hurry and it's just so much cleaner and cheaper to have an outboard. The crap that I've seen going into people's bilges has got to be so toxic for the environment.
Hi. What paint did you use for the interior? What paint for the integral water tank and are you happy with both? Also, are you happy with the composting toilet as well as, again, would you recommend them vs traditional with holding tank? Thanks again. Hope you don't mind me using some of your ideas with my boat. This is beautiful work IMHO.
This boat interior had PreKote primer then off-white Brightsides with flattening agent. Now we use EZCabinCoat because the Brightsides was prone to mold. For areas that have new fiberglass/spoxy repairs and modifications we first use a two part epoxy primer such as PrimeCoat because the single part primer doesn't adhere as well. In some lower lockers and bilge areas we use 2 coats of 200E Barrier Coat with no other primer or paint.
Where did you learn all this? what materials to use, technique? From all the restaurations this one looks like it should. Could you recommend any books, or sources? Eitherway, so far you video is a great source so thank you for taking the time. Andrei
A lot of this came from ideas and experiments on my own similar boat during two circumnavigations and from many years of boat building and refitting experience around the world. I don't know of a book that would guide you to through this type refit and modifications since every person has different ideas and opinions and most authors concentrate on bigger boats with different issues. There is some info you might find helpful on my site atomvoyages.com. Next year I may put together a book for the do-it-yourselfer refitting a small sailboat for offshore voyages. Meanwhile, you can find books on amazon by Casey, Vigor, Spurr, Fatty Goodlander, and others that could be helpful. As far as I know, none of them focus on smaller voyaging boats but many of their examples and techniques are transferable.
Thank you :). Advise me on this if you can. I'm still a beginning sailing wise (although I have background with surfing, carpentry, electric stuff, sewing DYI) I'll go through full courses, licence, and joining crews for a while to get more experience, I wanna get a project sailboat and to make it into an appartment. I will be moored mostly in Toronto (working there in general), and eventually I might take off for vacations since my job is super flexible. I would man this ship by my self. After some research, I was thinking of something like Catalina 38' (1980s), and I also like Hinterhoeller Freres F3 (around the same age) at 36'. Could I handle that by my self - I know the sailing is doable, but mooring, anchoring and all that. I really want to reorganize the boat like a decent appartment, I have a bunch of things I wanna put in there, and based on my prefereces 36-38 would be the ideal space. I definitely entertain the idea of having an Alberg 30' but I'm not sure I could manage with that space. It's more like a minimalist solution, too much compromise.
Your followup question didn't appear here yet. To answer that, yes most people can learn to handle a 38' boat solo. My interests are in the smaller, classic design boats so you should research those other boats online and then join some relevant forums to get your questions answered.
Thank you for the port sizes! One more question, now from my wife, heh. - what is the source of so nice kitchen sink? We tried to find one which is bigger than original, but still fit, without success. Where I can get one and what is the exact size? Thank you very much! So many great ideas from your projects!
I think it was 13" x 15" x 5" deep and called the Heng stainless sink model 1315 bought from an RV supply such as this one: www.hannarv.com/P/HengsSS1315SingleBowlStainlessSteelSink/1621 If you want to email me directly through my website I can pass the owner's email to you so you can confirm this or other questions through him. James
(Guiseppe asked, why not position the batteries lower.) Abbiamo deciso di lasciare la sentina posteriore libera per eventuale presenza di acqua e per accesso alla chiglia. Non abbiamo messo le batterie nella zona centrale della sentina perchè lì c'era lo scarico della doccia. Volevamo anche posizionare le batterie dove prima c'era il motore per bilanciare il peso. (We decided to keep the aft bilge areas open for sloshing bilge water and for bilge access. We didn't put batteries in the center bilge area because it was occupied by the shower sump. We also wanted to have the batteries balance the missing engine, which had been located in the same place.) James
Some of the original interior trim we were able to reuse was teak. Most of the rest was mahogany that we had in stock. True mahogany is hard to find now so we use sapele, often referred to as African mahogany.
I was curious what type of wire you used for the 110V outlets? Kind of looked like romex in the electrical panel. I am in the process of refitting an old Lancer and was trying to figure out what to use.
+Chadd Thompson I think you are referring to wiring used in houses which is solid copper. We use triplex marine cable that has multiple strands of tinned copper. If you make a search for marine triplex wire you'll find it at many suppliers.
I copied this explanation from my Good Old Boat List article on atomvoyages.com: With a tiller, you have more room in the cockpit, particularly at anchor when you swing it up and out of the way which is typically over 90% of your time on the boat, self-steering is easier to rig, you always see the rudder angle with a glance at the tiller, the feel of the steering is more direct and intuitive, it’s lighter and simpler, cheaper, less maintenance and far more reliable. A steering failure at sea is no joke and is much more common with wheel steering and can be difficult to jury rig a repair.
Thanks. Since the boat is unique with specific features either valued or not depending on a buyer's needs, the resale value is hard to say. It should be worth 50k or more if the market valued all the work done, but that's rarely the case. Another Alberg 30 we did a similar refit to was sold last year for $45k. That's probably a record price but well worth it if that was a persons ideal boat because they would pay more to have the same work done and only a bit less if they did the work themselves and valued their time at even below minimum wage. In most respects it's a new boat, only better. If you commissioned a boat builder to build a similar design today you would pay over 100k.
