Thanks, Im hoping to get some more parts painted soon. Been putting off the doors, I noticed a screw up I did on one of them and have to go back down to metal on part of the drivers door and re do the body work.
The YT channel United by Trucks just showed a square body where they tucked the exhaust up with turn downs just behind the bumper. They look to be well hidden which I can like for a lowered truck. The square tips will look good too. I have thought about angle cut oval megaphones in front the rear wheels on my 70 step, sort of an old SCCA Trans Am look with a nice rake on 15s, one of a few ideas floating in my head. Yes I overthink everything too, which is why I have been moving away from playing with late 90s to mid 2000s cars to older stuff. 70 Chevelle SS396, 70 C10, and an 01 Z06 in the garage. The older stuff I can do whatever I want no OBD2 emmissions or massive harnesses that are not of my design to deal with.
Decisions are always hard especially when a lot of work is involved. I initially wanted to do through the bedside exhaust coming out of both lower bedsides in front of the rear wheels but decided against it. More because I didn’t want the sound that close to the cab than the work involved in plumbing the exhaust. Thanks for watching!
Those roll pans alway look nice in the photo online or catalog. But, they are held in place with double-sided tape just the photo! lol. Nice choice on the exhaust tips and stainless. Upward drag pull some exhaust back & up as I have seen it destroy chrome bumpers just at that area. If fuel tank is in, like NASCAR, fab a scope outside the frame near the rear tire and funnel fresh air over the top of the SS tips. This trick may funnel exhaust fumes away from the paint on the tailgate. It is just a suggestion but today's paint is more tolerant & robust than ever. With removing my right brake/turn light, I wouldn't if the nut and bolt for the bottom of that trunnion can be reversed! Nut inside and "Allen" head cap screw with washer inside. If your tool box(es) look like mine, a stubby 6-point or Allen socket w/swivel will unscrew it from inside the lamp pocket or underneath, where ever it goes. This way you can leave the driver side trunnion in place, remove top bolt while tailgate is open, shove cardboard, foam or friend hold the tailgate, then loosen bottom bolt to remove. The reason I say that is, if mine, I would slot the hole out of the trunnion as a loose bottom bolt will let it slide up and out. Just hold onto trunnion so it doesn't fall & scratch paint on pan, bed edge, etc. I don't know but I hope my description works in your minds eye. I draw stuff on paper well in advance of doing a new design because if it pleases me, that's all that matters. Our high school being new my freshman year, didn't have money for a shop. The shop teach did teach drafting, it went from there! So far, looking really nice Curt. You got rid of your sniffles because I took 'em! Sniffing! DK, retired old fart! Don't have a dog to blame it on ;)
Thanks for the tips, I think I’m going to order a set of updated trunions first with the rotating delrin insert. Hopefully then there won’t be metal to metal contact and no rust forming. Otherwise they will just immediately start rusting like the originals.
No, on my particular build the exhaust is only going to be close to the front corners of the tank, the rest will run along the outsides of the frame rails. I have seen many factory exhaust systems closer without any heat shielding. On top of everything my exhaust is fully ceramic coated so that does help with heat, but I would not worry about it. Not to mention aluminum by nature is a heat sink so the tank will remain cooler than steel or plastic.
My truck is already painted so I need be real careful..$18K paint... I did buy a BROTHER roll pan but it came damaged.. So sending back..DO you recommend a NICE roll pan! Ty in advanced sir! Also I didn't get a bolt kit with tabs with my Brothers roll pan.. I NEED tabs! Any sites sell them??
Sorry, I’m not going to be much help as the video im about to upload shows, im doing a full weld in. I used the good mark branded pan on mine but it still needs some work. It would be possible just by looking at mine to attach the entire upper portion to under the tailgate with screws and you could weld some sheet metal tabs on the lower sides to bolt to your lower bedsides. However that would require drilling a couple holes in your expensive paint to attach the tabs to the bedsides. Another option might be to make some tabs that attach the lower part of the pan to the frame rails by making some custom brackets. Either way it would be easier and cleaner welding some hidden tabs on the pan before painting it then using those as mounting points for attaching to your chosen points.
