1973 Dodge Challenger Restoration Complete Rear body assembly episode 7 

Wow THANK YOU so much for the comment that is awesome and really made my day to hear that. You are welcome for the video and I am so glad it helped you that much. Good luck on the rest of the build and I am really glad you held on to the Challenger.

Thank you very much

Thanks for following along, on a good note next video I am filming I am digging this car out again and back on it to get it in paint soon.

Practice on some scrap sheet metal and you will be able to figure it out.

That will be a really nice ride when finished, really glad to hear the videos help you. Good luck with it keep me updated on the progress!

Thank you

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks for the support!

Thank you will do!

Really glad to hear it was helpful you're welcome!

Thank you very much I appreciate the Tip. I do like to drill the holes as the MIG likes to fill in that surface area just for my piece of mind honestly. That seems to work best for me but I have used that process with a TIG special tip you suggested where your using the top panel and adhere to the bottom panel.

Thank you very much. I am very lucky to have work lined up with cars that I am trying my best to get too and customers that are willing to trust me with their builds.

@@carthageclassiccars if someone doesn’t trust you after watching a few of your videos. You should not trust them it’s obvious that you know what you’re doing and how it’s done!

Thanks again for the kind words,

Thank you for the feedback and watching!

Thank you and will do!

Appreciate you checking it out and commenting, thank you!.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you Appreciate the feedback!

Thanks for sharing that really awesome to hear the video helped that way. Good luck on your install!

@@carthageclassiccars Did it yesterday afternoon. Worked like a dream! Keep these videos coming.

thanks will do!

No the welding helmet is a safephase welding helmet and their design. I got to pick and choose what I ask her to paint for me lol.

You're Welcome!

that would be cool.

Thank you very much, I agree with the AMD rep you talked too, really any panel will need full body work to make straight and not wavy when painted with a slick paint job. The cars in these videos look decent and would be perfect for a matte black prime job but never fly for a high gloss paint to be acceptable. I am body working the 71 barracuda in the shop and a video idea was talk about what is needed to bring a brand new panel to paint. I also run across some panels that will need more help then others, It all depends on the tooling and the life of your car. The number 1 question I get asked all the time is how much would this costs to install (model) quarter panel on (model) car and I don't have a solid answer because there are variances between cars and even in the stampings on the panels even when i buy the same ones but with some time differences between purchase I noticed. So my options are give a stupid high quote, cut corners to meet the requirements for the owner to get the job or be honest and say I do it by the hour.

Thanks for the great advice. Your straight forward instructions in the videos is such a welcome departure from all the other channels that feel the need to include drama and other nonsense. I’ll be spreading the word about your channel.

I really do appreciate that!

Thank you! I am running the welder on 220V dual phase. You are correct it will run 3 phase and still trying to come up with a plan to figure out what it would take to get 3 phase into the garage, but honestly I don't have any issues running it on the dual phase minus every now and then on initial startup tripping the breaker.

Thank you and messaging you now.

@jimdrechsel3611 Yes that is a problem with the challengers, I will use vise grips that will hook on a rachet strap on both quarters and try and pull them together first see if that helps. If not then I will slightly slice the curve inner areas of that corner and put a monkey on a stick (jack tool) and lift up under the corners to make a harder bend in the top and lift the edge if that makes sense.

you can shoot me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com. Was this car built on a JIG because usually there is not a time I am cutting roof pillar supports or anything like that. With the quarters I know what you mean about them sagging they do on the edges at times and that fix isn't too bad.

That white mustang is one of my cars that I did all the metal work on years ago and believe is in the process of being sold so unfortunately not that car. However I personally have a 73 Mach 1 that will need full restoration and I will use as my personal fun car. So if all goes well there will be one on the channel sooner or later.

Thank you and that is a loaded question with so many variables. Usually I don't build them start to finish and it all depends on customer expectations. Usually in the metal stage of a car this bad you will have 150-200 hours alone to get it to a place the body shop can spend less time really dialing it in. The body show I would say if you want some really high end job probably another 100-200 hours for paint. Then assembly from there and its the little things you wouldn't think assembling that take the longest. Its a lot of work to put them together especially rust free, built to last and in show winning quality.

Feel free to email me at Carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss

Hopefully one day I get one in the shop I can work on and the owner lets me film it, but as of right now I don't have any planned.

So I disagree with you in the sense the car is worth what the owner values the car, not what a 3rd party values it as. Most repairs also take much more time to fix properly and will usually not last the decades this car will. Also if you watch the video of the entire inner structure being rotten I would wonder how it would be "cost effective" fixing the inner structure while repairing the inch plus of filer on the quarter panels instead of buying a complete quarter panel at $500.