1973 Dodge Challenger Restoration New shop project and how to fix the field abandoned car since 1996 

Thank you very much

Thank you

thank you

Thanks

Thanks, this one will be a fun project I think

Besides being full of bondo the owner made sure it was a complete car and didn't sell anything on it.

Thank you so much that really means a lot to me!

@@carthageclassiccars you should get bigger than gravyard cars..he jokes too much,,makes too much.$$$...im in aus. i importd a 73 chall clone, 340 r/t sublime. because it wasnt the original color, met green,,it sat in shed far 12 yrs.has to be 100% original,,stoopid laws,.i just collected parts, re built parts. drove it illegaly. your fuel is sht loads better than ours, had half tank when i got it, went real well. i have a 71 grill for it. paid 150 for it, back when things were better..keep up the work, we need people like you, honest, doing a proper job. that said, if its just a driver, id say fix the rust, make it clean, but, with all the bog, its the right thing to do. i also have 4 u.s trucks..just live in the wrong country..

​@@harrywalker5836 Thanks again and sounds like a really cool car, I imagine between that and the trucks they draw even more attention down there. Keep hot rodding and enjoying them!!!

​@@carthageclassiccars Hi great channel. I have a 72 Plymouth Duster that I parked, but still started it up every now and then. I haven't for the past 6 years though. Could I write to you and ask you some questions?

@@gm-lb9oe Yes send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com

Thank you very much!

Thank you

I don't even know for sure yet, on some of these builds the direction changes half way through, but stay tuned. Thanks for watching!

Thank you

You are welcome and thank you for noticing the editing quality being a little better always trying to work on it to make it look more professional.

There are many different ways to tackle the rust removal, usually with the way the car comes in will determine what route I usually go.

You're welcome

Thanks and that is really cool good luck on your build and channel its a labor of love thats for sure.

Good luck to you as well on your build. If you need any parts I know where lots of random Mopar stuff is kicking around utah.

@@KnowlesFamilyGarage sounds good thanks!

Thanks a lot for the kind words. I have a video on this channel where I go in depth into the Ospho but short answer I think it actually is worse to use Ospho on blasted surfaces. Primers/paints need one of two things to adhere to metal, a mechanical grip or chemical grip. The sandblasting already provides a mechanical grip or tooth from the textured surface. Ospho provides a chemical grip almost like where the paint would say you can top coat in 72 hours but after that the paint loses its chemical grip and needs to be scuffed per the Technical data sheet. (mechanical) The downside to Ospho is the PH is too acid and can lead to paint not adhering. I use Lacquer thinner to neutralize this PH but with how rough a blasted surface is I feel you could have OSPHO stuck in the pits and actually make it worse. My opinion is sandblast and prime in 24 hours don't touch the bare metal with bare hands and the surface is already to go.

I personally am not a fan of full acid dips. First is just the cost factor and I feel it leaves a lot of exposed metal in-between every panel. If you watch ahead on this car as we torn more of it apart I did my own controlled version of an acid dip to remove/ neutralize the rust and treat it from there. Thanks for the feedback.

I will look into it I honestly haven't had too much luck with most blasters wet or dry but ill check it out thanks.

@@carthageclassiccars I tried to wet blasting one time and I was sorry I did it made a mess of the car it was like trying to get mud dauber nest out of the cracks and seams you had to literally brush it out air would just blow right over it in the mud would stay in the cracks

@@mrpurcountry I agree with you! I think there is a time and place and have been looking at purchasing a wet blaster however I don't think you can really do a good job wet blasting unless the car has no quarters and roof honestly and you need to wash it well after with the rust inhabitator.

Thank you. I don't have an good or bad opinion on that yet as I haven't used it. I personally like to stick with the separate parts in most instances as they give me more flexibility and adjustability before welding to really dial in these cars.

Brian I got your email and sent you a reply, thanks.

I don't have too many leads on guys wanting to get rid of Challengers, most of them are all looking the same as you to build them. This car is not quite done as waiting for the owner to acquire a few other key parts for the build but it is getting close to completion soon and will update on a video when we finish the next major repair.

I just saw this comment, I am personally not a fan of chemical dipping a car. I feel when it strips the car it strips in the middle of everything you will never get protection again as you can't reach in all the cracks or between pieces.. This I feel will open the car up for rust issues down the road.

You are right it does have numbers however I am not going to do that on this one The reason I feel is we are not trying to hide anything here, the parts will be replaced and feel saying the whole front clip being new is a better selling point vs keeping the stock stampings here and there. I might have a different of opinion but to me I am a fan of just placing the new panel in place and adding the numbers to me is just extra work that in this situation I don't think it calls for. Saying that if the owner wanted to do it this would be a different conversation.

20K would be way under what the parts would cost to properly restore this car.

Nice they must be really far gone considering what can be saved now and days/

I actually had the conversation with the owner of this car a few days ago. I was just curious and he said knowing what he does now being how nice his cars is with new parts, he wished he went that route and cloned a 70. If the 70 is your favorite style I think its the way to go. I think the 70 is the only one you can buy all the parts new. The 71 you would have to find I believe a donor upper grille support.

@@carthageclassiccars Thanks, I wonder why the front end style changed so drastically in 72..

@@applejuice9468 Looking back that is a good question I have no clue.

Maybe to cut costs, maybe to conceal the big gap between the bumper and the body.

Feel free to send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss offline, than you.

The good thing about this car is I believe it was bought for $200 in the early 1980's as a wrecked car by the owner and he drove it for 15 plus years after getting it to the less rusted version of this.