n this video we install the rebuilt bottom end in to the frame set up the front Isolastic adjustable motor mount, then install the primary chain assembly and we discover the primary chain is tighter due to the new bearings,
I know this is old but you are solving a problem I did not know. I am replacing the clutch on my 1973 Norton. I noticed oil on the plates and hardly any trans oil. Thanks for the time and effort you have put in you videos. Its helping some one out there. To day thats me.
Nice workmanship and excellent video quality. You guys are experienced mechanics and know correct torque for 1/4" bolts, just by feel. FYI, the 1975 850 Mk III manual has a call out for torque on generic bolts in Section A. They call for 8 lb/ft for 1/4" plated UNC bolts. I would never use that, as SAE only calls for 7 lb/ft for grade 5 plated 1/4" bolts. Bolting into sand cast aluminum should call for a reduction in torque, to prevent stripping out the threads in the sand cast crankcases. I generally use 5-6 lb/ft of torque for these [timing cover, gearbox cover & inner primary to crankcase bolts] Torque for the top gearbox mounting bolt is 55 lb/ft per both the 1970 - 74 and the 1975 Mk III manual.
I was taught that Woodruff key should be left a little low at the free end of the shaft, as being half circular it would self align as the interference fit was tightened down. In the US. you always, it seems, you say thousandths in UK in my day we would say thou. But l am very old and like watching you work on bikes of this era and before, the Comando was just post my time, l had Dommies and a proper Featherbed Inter, the best of all road bikes in its day.
You are absolutely correct about the woodruff keys whether it's on a engine tapered sprocket or straight shaft as cams etc. the edge should be slightly lower where you slide the sprocket on. I think I mentioned that as we assembled the primary. If not we should've because if you don't tip it slightly 99% of the time as you slide the sprocket on it pushes it out and either falls down or get stuck side ways and doesn't allow correct fitment. We appreciate your comment and the Dominator and international were awesome machines and the Featherbed frame was a game changer my Father had a 1963 Atlas 750 .
Love the video, well done and thanks. I've been putting off checking and adjusting the Isolastics on my Mk3 as I never really had a clear view how to do it in my head. I've read instructions and watched the Mighty Garage videos but still had questions in my head. Questions you've now answered showing the use of the hammers plastic handle and where to insert the feeler gauge. Greatly appreciated, thanks.
I had a total disintegration of my stator due to air gap. I removed most of the destroyed epoxy and sanded the metal brushes to increase the air gap. Is there any type of epoxy or sealant that you would use to protect the stator from the elements?
If it was mine I'd replace it with a good used one or buy a new single phase 10 amp alternator. Just sand if necessary the minimum air gap all around is .008" Also on Nortons the three studs holding the alternator can be slightly tweaked carefully if it's not centered or the three alternator holes can be drilled slightly larger giving adjustment room.
You mention that the nut on the clutch was 70 ft lb and now changed to 45 ft lb. My Mk3 workshop manual is saying 70 ft lb. Where are you getting this info?
My Norton Tech Manual talks about it, the snap ring that locates the clutch basket sits in a rather shallow groove, and there's a special collar that sits up against it with a machined groove for the snap ring so it can't jump out. At 70 ft pounds of torque against this snap ring they are known to shear off at 45 ft pounds with blue locktite on the nut it will not fail. Another part that should be eliminated is the locking tab that is used to hold the nut tight is made of too soft of metal and allows the nut to come loose by not holding the torque, and will cause wear on the main shaft and clutch center if it gets loose. The blue locktite is more than enough to keep the nut tight besides if you use a pushrod seal there isn't enough room for the locking tab anyway because there needs to be enough mainshaft after the nut to allow the oring to seal against the end of the mainshaft to seal the pushrod.
We've found that if you press and hold your brake lever down hard it keeps the brake backing plate centered while tightening the axle nut and there by the brake shoes are also centered and don't drag or give a pulse feeling when using the back brake. But the biggest problem that can happen if the backing plate isn't centered is one brake shoe can always slightly drag and that drag can cause the brake drum to get hot and melt the cush drive buffers prematurely.
