Wow Elin, it must be driving you crazy re-fitting those suspension parts without painting them! I couldn't do it, lol but I guess if that's what Trevor wants. Cheers, Richard
I am sure it is not what he wants, but we had to stop somewhere... otherwise it would turn into a full restoration and it would take a lot more time and money
often, once I've crawled under a car, I close my eyes and lie there for a while. sometimes it's because I've just undone a really stubborn bolt, other times it just feels nice, quiet and safe
Great work Elin. One warm and pleasant day I rolled myself under a car to fix a gearbox mount.. I closed my eyes and was woken a hour later by the customer.. I surprised him by asking, 'in future , never wake me up unless you have a coffee for me' .
Just a little tip, the suspension arm bushings should be tightened with the weight of the car is on the suspension.But of course this cannot be done until the engine is installed.
Another great video Elin. Like me you check RU-vid Elin and cheftush for reference. Drill your spring compressor at the bottom for an R clip so the nut can’t come off. 😁
Reminds me of the new suspension I built for the tr3a many years ago….very similar…minus those odd rubber o-rings that moss sent to go over the bushes…!lol
Elin … this video has been fantastic … I’m wrapping up the front and about to tackle the rear on my 75 … a question please… when attaching the ball joint to the vertical link, the nyloc nut is not tightening … it seems the ball joint is spinning too as I tighten ?
You need to put tension on the bolt part of the ball joint towards the vertical link. You can stick a prybar behind the ball joint (somewhere around the fulcrum pin) and use it as a lever to push down on the ball joint while the lower control arm is supported from underneath. The idea is to put the bolt of the ball joint as far in as possible inside the vertical link opening as they are both tapered and eventually the friction between them will become tighter than the friction between the threads on the bolt and the nyloc nut. What creates a lot of friction is the Teflon on the new nut so another option is to take out the new nyloc nut and use a regular nut just to drive the bolt tight into the link and then remove the nut and install your new nyloc one. I am assuming you don't have the spring in yet, if you do, that is not an option obviously.
Yeah, I've also watched some youtube video's of this... eh... Elin. He seems a knowledgeable guy, with great craftsmanship. But these stupid jokes.... ;-)
