In this video, we take the front suspension components apart that we removed from the 1976 Triumph TR6. Les will do the same to the components we removed from the 1973 Triumph TR6....
I've been watching for long time and never commented. Adding Les is brilliant. Keep mentioning Mum regarding language. I can relate. Just what my wife says...…..frequently. I relate to Les.
Good progress and great that Les is both learning and enjoying the work. My favourite de-greaser (it also works on stubborn remnants of under-seal) has always been decorators White Spirit which is very cheap and efficient but as ever it is flammable and can cause skin irritation so plenty of ventilation and sturdy rubber gloves. Kind regards, Richard.
Good video, many people will appreciate this detail when they get to working on their own vehicles. I have done mine but would have enjoyed seeing this before doing them.
I like Les, he is down to earth. This was a great video series. I have a 62 TR4 and my goal is to do the same thing, break down and replace what is needed. I have some minor rust issues that I will address during the project. Chef, keep up the good work.
Great explanation on the front suspension Dave. Les is lucky to have you Dave to help him with the project. What’s happening with Les union breaks? Looks like he’s cutting back. 😂 On the expense, I would tell Les its like remodeling a house your going to spend more than what you think at the beginning. I’m almost done with my TR4 and have spent about $7k with Moss. Not sure with rimmer but at least $2k. So again it can add up at the end even you do a lot of the work yourself. But Les it’s worth it. As always love the videos.
Hi Robert , trust me, every time Les asks me how much is this part or how much is that part, he usually answers “that’s not too bad”...what he doesn’t realize, although I’ve told him time and time again, it may not sound much now, but the parts total can add up very very quickly.
Good progress guys. As you suggested, I'll bet those were the original bushings. Will be interested to see if Les goes with rubber or nylatron. Cheers!
Great video Chef. Loved the Les tutorial and your attempt at keeping him politically correct 🤣 Having just modified my TR3a front suspension to that of the TR4a with caster trunnions and shorted top wishbones for camber, I don’t know how you do the work AND do the filming. I take my hat off to you Sir.
When I overhauled the suspension on my TR6 I used SuperPro bushes. The first time I drove it after doing this I though this cars got handling. I couldn't recommend them enough, if Les wants to upgrade then a car set of SuperPro bushes are worth there weight in gold
I just got done rebuilding my TR6 suspension (frnt & rear) this last fall and winter. This video would have really been helpful. Although the light /angle/glare was a little iffy, I followed it pretty well as it was still fresh in my mind. One thing that I had trouble with was the sequence of washers/ spacers/ o-ring seals on the lower pinion cross shaft (or whatever itz called). The shop manual/ Moss catalog pictures plus a few other sources weren't really very helpful, but I finally figured it out and I only had to take it all apart twice. So when you and Les put this back together after cleaning and painting, please be very explicid and clear about the sequence for future reference as your videos are used that way (you have a responsibility to the "Triumph Community" as by your videos and the contained actions therein, you are an expert to our amature status). PS: The girl on the far left in the poster is named Bertha McMillihand, and I dated her in high school. She was quite a looker but a lousy kisser and had some kind of smelly yeast infection. Your fantasies are your own Les!.....................Jerry out! 😎👍
Agreed Jerry, the lighting wasn’t great in this video...Les put those silver boards down to work on top of..they really screwed with the camera...if you notice, the shots on top of the wood were quite clear...I’ll do better during reassembly.
You get to practice your parenting skills! It's interesting how rudimentary the suspension is on my MG in comparison. Lesson learned: don't pick a race w/ a 6-pack'er, liable to get shmoked!
I note that Les is not into wearimg gloves, I hope he puts some barrier cream on his hands.Looking at how much does the general set up differ to that of the front suspension on a TR3A? I will be stripping mine soon and this could be a useful demo video.
Very similar to the TR3 set up. The ball joint set up is slightly different on the TR3 and the trunnions are slightly different as well (they have pins attached vs a through bolt) but overall, The TR2-TR6 range are very similar.
Hi Al, yes sorry about that. I think the silver boards that we had lining the work bench and poor overhead lighting didn’t help. You can see how much brighter things look on the 2x6 backer board vs the silver board.
I think Les is looking for a happy medium ...he will spend where he needs to spend. Rubber is the cheapest option followed by polyurethane and then nylatron. However, there can be huge price swings even within these categories. For example, you can get no name poly bushings or branded ones from Superpro...big difference in cost.
David Cummings don’t think so David. We recorded the shims off both cars as we didn’t know at the time what frame we would be going with. We will go with the shim set up from the 73. It won’t make a difference what suspension components we use regarding the number of shims. Please note though, even if we use the same amount of shims, this will just be a starting point. The first place the car will be going to is an alignment shop...this car will need to go through a full MOT certification service before it can be registered for the road.
Tell Les when taking things apart it's righty tighty, and lefty loosie. Of course that might not work on someone that grew up driving on the wrong side of the road.
Can we set up a " go fund me page " for Les,,,,,he needs a pair of gloves!!!! So he doesn't get covered in s&@t. Just another step closer to a finished product,,,, Thanks guys
Oh, Trust me Doug...he has access to about three pairs of work gloves on the bench beside my plus a whole box of nitrile gloves...he’d rather complain about being dirty and that his hands are getting torn up it seems 😉
Doug Rv engines yes...transmissions possibly no...early frames up to the end of 72 had a different mount than later cars..I think for 4 speeds it won’t matter but it will when you get into overdrive transmissions....regardless, there are adaptor plates you can buy, or you can make one if required. I’ve cut the article below out of an internet article...maybe it makes more sense. “The J Type overdrive uses a different rear mounting arrangement than the A Type OD. The A type uses the same rear mount as the non-OD gearbox. Therefore, the A OD can be used any place the regular gearbox fits. The J type rear mount position is further to the rear than the non OD gearbox. A new two position mount (one position for non-OD and the other for J Type OD) that uses different mounting brackets welded to the frame was introduced with commission number CF1 in 1973. I understand that there are commercially available adaptors to mate the J OD to the early frame. I've also heard reports that some of them don't adapt (don't work). Others have reported using the J type OD on earlier frames by fabricating custom mounting fixtures.”
