1976 C3 Corvette Dash Disassembly, Speedo Repair and Vintage Air Ducting! 

Hi Dean. Take a look at the picture at this link. You can see the speedo connector in the very center of the back of the gauge and just underneath it a greyish-black tab. Just push that tab inward toward the gauge while gently pulling the cable outward and away from the gauge and it should slide right off. That tab is part of a spring clip that grabs the end of the cable housing. When you go to put it back on all you need to do is push the cable back in until it snaps into that clip. Hope that helps! www.corvetteforum.com/forums/attachments/c3-tech-performance/47610286d1183072788-how-the-do-you-remove-the-speedo-cable-dscn1878.jpg

@@RestorationObsession I never responded but thank you! It came out perfect. I can't find any information on this next part, have you removed the ignition switch that sits on top of the steering column? Mines gone bad and for the life of me I can't get it out

@@katatonos Cool beans! No, I have not removed the ignition switch yet.

Press connector !

Yay! I am excited for you! Ugh, critter crud haha, that stuff is the worst! Let me know how it goes!

Haha thanks Michael!

Hi! Really? I think they are pretty easily serviceable, mostly. Though some bits can be kinda wonky.

I disagree...they are very mechanic friendly. I had a 66 Rivera with bad gauge lights and could never figure out how to get the dash off... no screws in sight.

My pleasure! Glad to be of help

Thanks, Van! If the speedo still doesn't work after a new cable, I suspect the gauge may be rusted inside or possibly the spring is broken. Of course, there are other ways it could not function. Good luck! Let me know how it goes.

@@RestorationObsession Thank you so much! I may reach back out to you if the new cable doesn't fix it. Sure hope it does after looking at what it will take to replace it... 😁. Thanks again!!

@@RestorationObsession I am thinking about pulling the speedo gauge out next week to inspect the mechanism the best I can before I install a new cable. You mentioned that the gauge parts may be rusty or spring might be broken and I'm thinking you may be right. I'm scared to pull the mechanism apart like you did 😁 for fear I couldn't get it all back together correctly. If I pulled the gauge cluster and sent it to you, could I possibly hire you to look at the mechanism and see if you can make sure nothing is broken inside...? That thing looked like a watch that was taken apart and I'm afraid I couldn't get it back together without having leftover parts... 😁 I hate to go to all that trouble replacing the cable and it still not work. Please let me know what you think. Thanks so much! Van McDowell - Georgia

@@vanmcdowell6671 Hi Van. I really wish I could help, but I can't do anything like that right now, sorry. But if you go slowly, take lots of pictures, and remove each screw and piece very carefully, I am sure you could do it.

@@RestorationObsessionThank you and I understand! The many small parts make me nervous... 😁

My pleasure! Thank you

Haha! Thanks =)

Me too! Let me know when you come to Florida for vacation!

lol!

I hear ya! The VA ducting is a P.I.T.A.!!! I recommend using mylar duct tape to hold things together while positioning. Another problem I faced was crushing of the tubing when putting the center console back in. It's such a pain I hate to even think about pulling my dash apart again lol

It's definitely a requirement. Did I forget to mention that in this video? It might be mentioned in the other one I posted. Thank you for pointing it out! :)

Thanks Jim!

Yeah, but it may depend on some factors. The coil and contacts tend to corrode over time. Corrosion can cause the resistance to increase, causing excessive heat build up. I've read that the dimmer switch can do the same. Mine seems to work great though. I always loved the hi-beam foot switch. Well, if your switch is already like that, just get a new one. Better safe than sorry. One-time $25 insurance payment. If it looks good, a nice cleaning is a good thing. I always try dry microfiber rags first. They tend to work well. Alcohol helps get grease, dirt, wax, oxygenation and other grime off. Don't use water on electrical parts. As for prevention, what I have found works best is using the device. I have learned this lesson well with pinball machine restorations and ownership. Old school 70's-80's era lead contact switches are prone to the same thing and games start acting wonky if you don't play them because the corrosion and whatnot prevent them from making contact. Good luck!!!

Next time, turn the ball vent sideways and give it a firm tug straight out. Absolutely no need to take the dash apart, even with brand new felt.

Thank you, Jeffrey. At first I gently pried it up from both sides at the same time, but that was a bit awkward and not working so I put some blue tape on it and used vice grips BARELY clipped over it enough to pull on it and thankfully it popped off. I have since removed it and replaced it a couple more times. It's not an easy task. I was sure I was going to break it, to be honest. I think I got lucky.

I did, too. I found that using some of that mylar flex duct tape helps a lot. Affix the ends to the unit first, then put it in, if possible. I had to remove mine and re-do them after it was in though, real PITA. Also, I don't recall if I mentioned it in the video but I did not reinstall the entire radio. it's just the face plate and tuners to make it look like a radio is still there. The unit was shot anyways, but there wasn't enough space in there for all the tubing. Also, if you seem to have too much tubing, you may need to trim some of it off but be careful and don't cut them too short!

Will do!

@@RestorationObsession I followed your video and did it myself. Thanks :)

@@LukeAshlocke That's awesome!!! Good job!

Hi Tony. I have not installed new weatherstripping in my C3 yet and so have not done any research on that topic. Maybe at some point. I suspect that most Corvette parts suppliers (Zip, Eckler's, etc) probably source it from the same place though. I would buy through one of them. Let me know what you find out!

@@RestorationObsession … thank you. You are probably correct, most likely made in Xina by Mr. Suzuki and shipped in bulk to a bunch of retailers who are using their own packages. Top Flight Automotive/ American Corvette is the most expensive. I’m in Arizona, weatherstripping doesn’t last, perhaps I’ll buy the cheap and coat it with UV 303.

@@TimeToBeKind I hear ya on the hellish AZ heat. It sucks the life right out of everything! I saw your forklift video, btw, and did a bit of quick research. I believe that's a Pettibone Super 8. Kind of a cool looking contraption.

Says the guy who uses "absolutely" three times lol! But seriously, thank you for the feedback, Jesus. best of luck in your restoration projects!

@@RestorationObsession Honestly, I watched the video and went "This guy is pretty easy to listen to and goes into a lot of detail that might not be necessary, but I appreciate regardless" Great video. I picked up a basket case 76. The dash is all out except the center console cluster/radio. Interior was already pulled out. Need to adjust doors and rear bumper and on and on...I might actually get the dash back together this weekend now that I have a good point of reference. Thanks!!!

@@ryanshelvik7262 Lol thanks Ryan!

Go watch another one or create your own video. Simple solution.

Haha! Thank you, Grammar Police

Not everyone can be as perfect as you Ima Tentpeg.... This video is well done, very comprehensive and informative. Thanks Restoration Obsession!

Go fly a kite