With the engine bay of this MGB nearly finished it reveals the true state of the engine - and it's not pretty! But what can we do about it? We need your help to decide it's future.
As a rough and ready assessment of the state of the engine bores I took out the plugs and put a measured amount of engine oil into each cylinder, I checked to see how long it took for the oil to drain down into the sump - three bores were fine - the fourth drained a lot quicker. Dismantling the engine showed that bore was badly scored. The engine got a full rebuild, 45 years later it is still running perfectly.
I would drive it a few hundred miles. Add some marvel mystery oil to the gas and oil. This lubricates the engine freeing up the valves. Driving it around is very beneficial, the smoke looked white which is just condensation
I bought a new British racing green MGB in Massachusetts way back in 1977. Loved that car and really miss it. These vids are bringing back many fond memories. I’m biased of course but I’d try to find original wheels. I don’t have the expertise to make an intelligent suggestion on what to do with the engine but I’ll enjoy watching you implement whichever decision you take.
I am rebuilding a 1977 MGB, also painted British racing green. I have black LE wheels and think they look great. I think they are a good fit! On my rebuild, I took the engine down to the block for rebuild. I knew the state of the engine since it was rebuilt.
I know you did a compression test but that was prior to getting the engine running. It might be worthwhile doing another compression test again now it's been fired up, just to see whether the ignition heat has caused a valve to stick or valve stem seal to break up. The wheels look good, providing you are not interested in it being original spec. I agree with an earlier post that black paint would look better than grey on them. This is a great series, really enjoying it.
The wheels are not right for the green car. Go with CWW or Rostyles, or get originals. Great project work so far but please change out the piston rings and skim the head.
My 72 roadster smoked bad for the first 500 miles after being in the garaged since 2001, but came back. No to the wheels if your going chrome bumper but do look nice rubber bumpers with tinted glass. Old Saab wheels fit and look good.
Thanks Dave. I would be inclined to let the engine run for longer if it wasn't for the metal in the oil. Great comments on the wheels. Thanks for watching.
Great video,. I would rebuild the original engine in the car. You have done all paint you might as well complete the restoration. Maybe a set of min-ilights would look more period correct.
You should do whatever you feel is real. Definitely an MGB engine but don’t think rebuilding is necessary if you find a reasonable replacement. Might be fun to rebuild though.😊
Yeah. 1. Not sure the wheels looks as good minilites or wires 2. Smoke was white rather than blue. Sure it isn’t condensation? What was the ambient temperature? Consider HGF too
Not a fan of the wheels. Swap engines - give it a go as it seems to be a quicker, risk-free option and if it doesn’t work then you can sort the original out.
Engine removal not complicated. Head off, clean up and determine what to do next. I always check valve seats and guides. If you need to hone cylinders it can be done in a day. Measure and determine necessity of a rebore takes less than an hour. New machining is a Straight forward process. In one month, it’s all back and tight. Good to go for years. Remember the crank may turn, but check the bearings. My MGB and MGB GT are both being restored system by system while on a bench. Secure knowledge of condition is worth more than all processes combined imho.
I release that is four months ago. But you said that the damper was damaged with that much force the crank could be bent or possibly the thrust bearing might be damaged.
Not enough measurable evidence yet with respect to "green" engine to make objective decisions! 1. Carry out compression test on engine noting variations against recommended standard. 2. Remove cylinder head. Invert and add some kero or similar to check for leaks past the valves. 2. Check bores for damage and wear against recommended standard. All this takes is time plus some minor costs. One you have solid data, then you can make the right decisions. Cheers! Geoff in NZ - 1972 MGB GT
What happened to the write-off donor car bodyshell - was it scrapped? BTW - the engine exhaust smoke tells me that engine is shot, it needs a full rebuild; and the LE wheels look awful, put some Revolution 8 spoke alloys on it.
Do a compression test, record the numbers, drop some 20/50 down the plug oles and do another compression test, higher by a significant amount worn bores, not much different head for the head... Personally, I would rebuild the one in the car, not the crashed one, start from a known not an unknown..
Rebuild original motor. Don’t mess with the engine number chassis number marriage. 30thou rebore, new bearings, re-seat the valves, fast road cam and valve spring upgrade, a light porting and polish of the head, not too much so as to raise or keep torque numbers high. CSi 45 electronic distributor, dynamically balance the bottom end, flywheel, clutch assy, conrods, pistons and you should be good to go with a nice torquey motor good to go.
The wheels kinda look ok but I like wires on an MG. If the engine in the green car is the original I would re- build it. Matching numbers are worthwhile. Otherwise I would do a swap.
Is the engine in the Green'un it's original engine? If so rebuild and keep originality to the Car-get rid of those L. E. Look awful in my opinion. Nice set of refurbed Rostyles. Keep up the great vids.
Great comments - thank you. I'll check to see if the engine is original but the car was a rubber bumper and now converted to chrome so much of the originality has gone. But your point is well taken and very valid. Thanks so much for watching.
@@flatcapsnclassics9928 Guess I missed the bit about the Chrome bumper conversion. Started watching when I bought mine and had exact same problem with a reluctant starting engine. Voila! Fired up straight away after doing the same trick. Now, all I have to sort is the rotten A posts...... and floors...... 👌
Wheels?? What look are you going for original or modified. Personally I'd go wired because I like original. But modified looks good too when done right but don't make it a missmatch heaps of parts. Oh ... If wired than it needs to sit lower. The spare engine? Pull it out and check for crank end float in case anything is broken internally. The top end looked undamaged. Bench start it. If okay fit front and back oil seals and install in Kermit the greenie.
I vote engine swap. And as to the wheels, I LOVE them. really wanted them for my 78 Brooklands Green roadster. In the US, they only came on the Black 1980 Limited Edition Bs.
Absoulutely right Steve - the green one's engine needs to come out anyway. We've done quite a few engine removals and you're right, it's not too tricky at all. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Robert. You've read my mind exactly for the engine. If we do the swap and all's good I'll probably end up rebuilding the original engine anyway. Thanks for watching.
Those wheels ain't right! Needs wires. Re the engine - bit of a risk going for the donor engine but might be easier than the rebuild. Agree that the rings are surely the cause of all that smoke. But then, what would I know!
Not a fan of the wheels. However, they might look better with a wider tire. LE wheels were never made to have the same tire width as the Rostyles. I think you should work on the red car engine. You can’t just toss it in as is because you know it has taken a good hit on the nose. Tear it down. Check it out. (Clean it up (paint). Decorate it with your pretty parts from the green car and swap it in.
Hi Brad. Great comments and your thoughts match mine with the donor car engine. We certainly wouldn't swap without checking it out thoroughly. Interesting thoughts on tyre size too. I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for watching.
Simple enough to run the donor motor in situ/on the floor before swapping...🤷♂️ Or, pull the pan plastiguage the crank & measure endfloat. A refresh, if neede, would be easy enough..
New viewer. Just started watching the video. Sounds like it has rod knock. The rigs being a little loose is not as significant. I have a few MGBs, including a similar one i want to get back on the road.
Hi Steve. We've done the compression test (it's in an earlier episode) and it's good. That's why we think it's rings and crankshaft bearings rather than valves. Thanks so much for watching.
Hi John. Here you go. They are not specific to the MG but they are useful. Thanks for watching. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09V4P1Y34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi there I’m new to you’re channel I’m 18 and have a big dream that one day I will be fixing and selling cars I got my first ever car yesterday and it is a 1977 mg mini 47k miles everything works other then the brakes for only 1k US dollars paint is bad clear is bad and the body is bad but luckily that’s what I do for a living I do body work with my dad and we can repaint it so easily mainly because it’s tiny but I was wondering we’re do you get all your parts for the mg I’m looking for interior and brakes
Wow! Congratulations! I'm sure you will LOVE your new car and achieve everything you set your heart on. As i'm in the UK it's quiute easy to get parts for me. I use MOSS EUROPE. They have branches across the UK but I would start with the head office in London and they should ship to you. Have fantastic fun with your project and you're so lucky to be doing it with your Dad. Thanks for watching!
How sad that a potentially interesting video can be spoilt by the concept that viewers with no experience, expertise or idea can determine the direction of a video and in this case a repair. Is this what people have come to now. Give the viewers voting rights. Don’t think I’ll bother to return to this channel.
