I've just purchased a 1981 15hp Evinrude, it's a runner but I'm giving it a birthday with new prop shaft seals, bearing housing O-Ring and Water Pump. Can't wait to get it on a boat and head out fishing. Read so many positive things about these outboards, and to think I bought it knowing practically nothing about them. I'm so pleased with the purchase
They are excellent motors. The one thing that happens sometimes with them is the upper water tube grommet (under the powerhead) will sometimes swell up and partially block the flow of water into the powerhead causing them to overheat. This is especially prevalent in ones that have seen saltwater use, but can happen to any of them. If the engine has been run hot in the past it is more likely. Just be sure to regularly check the temperature of the powerhead while running the motor when you first start using it after getting it all serviced. My '79 turned out to be fine and your '81 likely will be too. It's just something to watch and be aware of. Good luck and have fun with your new motor. In my opinion these are some of the very best fishing outboards ever built even if not my favorite motors to work on. Not bad to work on either, but everything is packed very tightly under the cover. Thanks for watching!
If you look on other videos, I see the pull cord handle is different. The one you have I believe should be and is the original that comes on the motor. Others are the thinner ones. I actually like this one better. Just a style preference. I'm picking this motor up Friday or Saturday after searching for 12 years. I'd like to swap out the handle though to this original one if possible haha
Yes, this motor has the correct and original rope pull handle. This pull is still available new, at least until stock is depleted with the cessation of Evinrude production. Reproductions of this handle are currently made too. I like this pyll better than some of the aftermarket ones available also. Great that you found your motor after searching for so long. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Yes sir, that's what I thought, that this was the correct one. I think you get better pull out of it as well. My grandfather's was this way and I'm trying to get it as original as possible. Now as far as the Evinrude 2 cycle oil mix, do you think the production of that will be halted as well? Or should I be okay running different 2 cycle mix? I've always used the Evinrude oil
@@randyhules3369 They may continue production of the oil since there are so many Evinrude engines out there. The parts may continue too, but who's to say how far back they will produce parts for, or who will handle the parts business. There are a lot of unvalidated rumors flying around out there now. As far as using other 2-stroke oils, any TCW-3 rated outboard oil is OK. I was using Pennzoil fully synthetic until they stopped making it. I use primarily Amsoil fully synthetic outboard oil now with great success. Pretty low odor and low smoke even when mixed at factory reccomended ratios of 24:1 and even 16:1 on my classic OMC 5.5s. It is biodegradable and almost zero carbon fouling even with an oil heavy mix.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 well I definitely appreciate the info. You actually answered a few questions I originally had anyway. Was gonna ask about production of parts and what oil I can still get if they by chance do stop producing it.
@@laurentgagne892 I'm running the stock 9.25x10P prop on this motor. Considering I get around 22-23mph with just myself and a fuel tank in an otherwise empty boat, I'd say your 20mph with 2 people is pretty reasonable. I wouldn't expect any more top end put of the 9P prop. It may improve acceleration and get you on plane quicker. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404yes i got 22-23mph with the 10 alone too... but being 2 people it take a good time to plane so i think the 9 will be more fuel efficient since it will hop on plane faster ....and if we are 3 peope with a lot of stuff the 9 will shine...ive heard that stainless steel props are made thinner thus creating less drag and producing higher speeds ...this would be my last resort...ive tried the hydrofoil and i just lose top speed
@@laurentgagne892 Yes, the hydrofoil will just add drag and slow you down. The lower pitch will help.ypu plane woth passengers, but probably won't gain any top end. It will help the engine operate in the range where it makes power though. The SS props are thinner than aluminum but much heavier. Just make sure you idle down as low as possible before shifting and shift quickly. Otherwise they'll also tear up your gearcase.👍
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 im happy with the speed so far because its a 14 feet inflatable saturn zodiac alike ....i feel like it may have more drag than an alu jon boat
I assume you are referring to a 16 foot riveted aluminum flat bottom jon boat with a 48" beam. I would expect a similar speed to what I got in this boat. This one is a 14 foot riveted aluminum semi vee. There very nice motors. Thanks for watching!
It depends a lot on the area you are in. Here in SE Lower Michigan these sell for between $700 and $1100 in good running condition. They are wonderful motors. Lots of power in a small package and easy to fish over. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 im in north central florida, the boat is actually from Michigan lol heres a link to the ad ocala.craigslist.org/boa/d/dunnellon-14ft-aluminum-freshwater-boat/6831915744.html
Labrador Guy Hi Dale! This one still has the all metal carburetor. It is a very good, strong running motor. I had been looking for one of these for a few years when I ran across this one. It would bring good money if I sold it, but this one is a keeper! Thanks for watching!
Yes, that is a safey chain hooked to the motor. In this boat the other end is anchored to a stainless steel eye bolt that passes through the transom knee brace. Inhave the same setup in my Aerocraft P-12 and my Meyers Aquabird. My Sea Nymph 14R has the chain anchored to one of the bolts that passes through the transom pad to the inside of the hull. The Alumacraft K doesn't have one yet. Thanks for watching!
holly shit, i have a 1955 alumacraft fd / 1977 15 hp evinrude lol funny i was like this boat looks familiar.. the back esp... i had to drill out rivits to get the damn transom wood out lol im restoring it atm
My FD is a '71. Yes, thebrivets have to be drilled out of the transom splashwell braces to replace the wood in the Aqueduct transom. They are extraordinarily rugged boats though. I am a big fan of the transom design and the classic Alumacraft boats in general. The 1977 thru about 1992 OMC 15s are about the pinnacle of fishing motors in my opinion. Thanks for watching!
She’s a great runner! Seems to be fast moving. Have a 74 version up on my channel if you ever want to check it out. You sure move with you and your kiddo!
Yupper! This is a great runner for sure. It scoots along nicely for a 15hp. I need to get my '89 Johnson 9.9 on the lake one of these days for a ride. Trying to do it before the season is over but I probably only have a couple more outings left. Thanks for watching!
Just picked one of these for $300. Does reverse lever only work when it’s running? The lever moves forward fine but does not go past neutral or am I doing something wrong
The clutch dog is not meshing in bot directions with the gears at rest. If you move the lever toward reverse while turning the prop you will geel.it fall into engagement. The mix ratio is 50:1 with TCW-3 2-stroke outboard oil. Thanks for watching!
@@bee2333 What do you have to fix? When the engine is running the gears are always moving. The no-mesh issue goes away when it is running. When you rotate the prop by hand when the engine is off it just rotates the clutch dog until it meshes with the stationary gear. Is there another problem with the motor?
Old JohnnyRude I just got the motor today. I just know my other motor I can switch back and forth without running but you explained it to me now. So what your saying is once the motor is idling it will go in reverse normally correct? Other then that I don’t see anymore issues. I just picked this up for $300
The added rope effort on many of the older motors has a lot to do with the design of recoil. Many are designed with an effectively small sheave diameter. The OMC elliptical starter design was a very innovative design that increases the pull leverage at the top of piston stroke and increases crankshaft rotation speed between compression. This decreases rope effort. Thanks for watching!
@@alexcruz7719 The older ones that are more difficult to rope over are typically an inherent result of the design. Which motor do.you habe that you are finding excessively difficult to rope over?
This one is pretty easy on fuel for a two stroke. I get quite a few miles out of a 6 gallon tank. It probably but a a couple gallons an hour at it close to full throttle. My 50s and 60s 18s use probably twice as much fuel as this 15. Thanks for watching!
Maybe it needs a tune up, or a less smokey oil in the mix. With a good oil mixed at 50:1, there should not be much smoke once the engine is warm. Thanks for watching!
