We try to get this 3 HP Briggs engine running to try and sell at the show You can purchase the Flexible Magnetic Flashlight here: amzn.to/2J7XjuV www.amazon.com... Please consider supporting us on Patreon / 805roadking
I've worked on so many of those Briggs recoils... As soon as you took it apart, I saw those loose pieces of spring. I couldn't help but laugh because I know the struggles of those😂😂
Taking the tank apart was the only way to get to all those holes, you were right about that. The repair looks solid so it should be serviceable for a long time now. Nice work.
Just any old Brigs might be worth $20 but a "RoadKing Restored Briggs" should be worth at least twice that because we all know he did it correctly plus he has documentation to prove it. :-)
If your tank/carburetor assembly is like my old 3.5 hp B&S lawnmower engine the small reservoir provides the same function as the float bowl but without the float and needle valve (read - simpler and cheaper and to some extent more reliable). A diaphragm pump powered by the intake vacuum pulses (like the pump in a weed whacker carb.) pulls fuel up from the tank (long tube) and fills the reservoir. Excess fuel spills back into the tank via a little spillway providing a consistent level (just like a float bowl) from which the main jet (short tube) can draw fuel from.
Good video roadking this will make a good video for people to learn from. I never realized they had a little sump inside of them before this video. Keep up the good work. Have a great day. God Bless!!!
no unfortunately. but its pretty simple. just cut a pop can to form a sort of bowl and press it in the hole. wear gloves though. you could use some sort of other material but i found a pop can works best. as long as "some" fuel will stay in there it will work just fine. you wont get it to hold as much fuel as the original bowl would have but it works just fine. as long as there is fuel to be sucked up and the pump is in good shape it will keep up just fine.
Mine looked worse than that and i still salvaged the spring. I got lucky i guess. Your spring looks dead which makes sense to replace. Great video on the tank refurb.
i give you credit,when i get them looking like that i chuck them!!! actually i have a old sensation 5 horse blower that i ended up buying a tank for off ebay because the machine is in nice shape
I think that small tank is suppose to have a drain hole into the main tank. If it does not, it will not fill properly, right? Very nice work by the way.
Thanks DD!! It doesn't have a drain, it's more like an overflow!! When the diaphragm pumps fuel into the baby tank it just keeps filling it!! There is a 1"x 1/8" slit at the top of the little tank that lets excess fuel flow back into the main tank!!☺
More fun with epoxy !..I just knew you would heat and un crimp the tank seam ...It is kinda like a radiator seam....I have had those recoil springs attack me .Came flying at my face like a Rattlesnake
Ah, Fubar, used to use that on repair sheets at the computer shop 'til someone realised what it meant, then went to NFG (No fucking good), 'til again someone realised what it was short for... :P
I haven't been signed in to this channel for a while. Been spending too much time on my dashcam channel lol. Although I'm subbed to you on that one too lol.
Hey, Mr. Roadking, I was wondering what king of epoxy you used on that gas tank. I am working on one right now with the exact same problem. It is a 1984 model on a Roto Hoe. I am also looking for the foam filter that goes around the outside of the recoil on the blower housing. It needs to be replaced. Briggs was no help. They sent me to a place called Bob's Antique Engines and I sent Bob an email but he never replied. The filter is supposed to be in place (according to Briggs) to keep the engine from overheating. I have never seen one before this one. Anyway, back to the tank...I have some JB Weld "stick" epoxy that is supposed to be oil and gas resistant and is even supposed to set up while underwater. Do you think this would work or should I use something else? Thank you for your videos. I have garnered gobs of useful information from you and Mr. Mike. You guys are fantisimo!!
The epoxy I use is Army surplus, no name on it!! It's just standard paste epoxy!! JB is good but you're better off with the original stuff in the tubes!!☺
Maybe its just reflection, but it looked like there were holes in the top edges of the tank. Looked like light shining through. Could just be reflection tho, worth a check if you haven't already buddy ☺
I never bother with spring steel (especially at that thickness) that's rusted. Mostly because spring steel that's had its "surface" pierced by rust just doesn't work right anymore and it's prone to snapping.
I'd think the idea behind the long tube feeding the pickup chamber is just like a surge tank/swirl pot/carb bowl with no hose needed...Engage safety squints.!..Yep she's FUBARed RK....I'd say "it's had the sausage" mate.
ZIGgassedUP isn't the small chamber in the tank there to replace the float and float bowl you find on normal carburettors? i thought the system worked by the diaphragm pump filling the chamber until it overflowed with the extra fuel dropping back into the main tank.
Shouldn't there be a drain hole on that little reservoir? Just enough to let fuel back downstairs, when it gets full? Something like a 1/8 inch hole, high, on the side? steve
Man, every time you open up something new on that thing you see a rust line like a high water line after a flood. Did someone leave that thing in a bucket outside for a few years. Oy yoy yoy!
If all else fails , EPOXY IT ! , or you can cheat and put liquid tank liner in it . To replace the pull start spring easy , I stick the inside spring tab it in the retainer slot on the shroud , catch the slot on the pulley with the inside spring tab and wind it in with the string off and pull the spring into the shroud , and the tabs still up , rather than try to wind it up and stuff it in . The spring end will slide into the retainer slot and lock , then I push the tabs down , wind it up , and then put the new rope back in .
You can save $6 by using a grinder to shape a new tab on the end of the spring. That is, if it wasn't rotted so bad. Can't count how many I've saved that way.
anyone in the comments know anything about ring order/orientation on these older aluminum head briggs(non chrome sleave), I got one, the rings have no markings other than a notch on one side of the very inner edge of each ring all the way round, things pumpin oil, but has loads of compression, Im guessin I put em upside down or wrong way around, yet all info I find is for cast iron head briggs, or is conflicting
golly gee mr road king you said a cuss . now my dad ward and my mom june says that cusses is bad and that if you say them the pc police will cry a lot . ok mr road king you sure are swell got to go now its off to point out other useless information . bye
Oh, ho-ly taaaank. The lights are shi-ning briiiiight-lyyyy. LOL Nice work buddy! That pullstart is savable! All ya gotta do is soak in in terpentine. Just pullin' at ya buddy! Epoxy is great stuff! Seals the deal! You coulda used the remainder of that epoxy on yer lips! :D Thanx EJ!
