I'm bewildered that all of a sudden people are interested in these square bodies after all these years, given the fact that they were built before these buyers were born or while they were infants. I've owned 4 square bodies which were purchased new in the 80's.
For some of us, it is because they don’t have Onstar nor any of that computer crap that could fail during an emp blast, sunspots, or can be used to spy on you. I hope that this was helpful. :):)
Door panels are the stock color. The dash originally was the same color. They originally had a rubber floor mat with jute padding that trapped moisture, and rotted the floor, but it did help with sound deadening some of noise. Good to remove it. The truck is all 12 volt except the starter and Nato jump plug. You can take 12 volts off the buss bar(white covers) or in the back seat area passenger side. Get out your volt meter. That's a nice one. If your not familiar with the black out light switch you should figure it out to keep from losing your lighting accidentally.
That's usually a quick tell if it's actually a CUCV or a civilian model with green paint. The door panels and dash rarely match. The dashes were removed en mass to be modified, then thrown back in whatever truck was next in line. The glow plugs, while 12 volt, originally were run off the 24v side as well. Through a resistor that steps it down to roughly 12v, this was done so that the glow plugs and starter could both be operated from the slave cable supply.
I guessing all these folks who are enamored by these square bodies weren't born yet when they debuted. Our family has purchased 4 of them new, 2 were 6.2 diesels.
You are absolutely right, if it was stone cold you’d want to give it a few minutes for sure. In this case it was not a cold engine. Not up to operating temp yet but not cold.
If you follow the brake controller manufacturer’s specific instructions it’s mandatory to wire it straight to the battery. Is there a specific reason you don’t recommend doing it that way? Thanks for watching!
