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Another great video, just as usual, you are spoiling us! Please bring 1M love to the channel :D also, the Quartz paint seem to be a quality product. Where do you get them from?
These restorations inspire me to restore my E30, while at same time discourages abit knowing i won’t be able to achieve the result as good as this :D anyone feel the same way? Anyway, thanks for all the videos, i learned a lot :)
Quick Tip At 3.15 regarding nut releasing - Prefer to use leverage rather than force. 1. Leverage significantly reduces the chances of rounding a nut or causing thread damage. By leverage I mean adding a hollow bar to your rachet , or spanner etc. 2. Leverage always reduces the stress on your wrist joint. I know we all shake these small things off but anyways. Thanks for another fantastic video
I woke up to the notification of this new video, and with three projects to finish on my house it’s just the motivation I need to get them done and done right. Awesome as always! ✌️
I never thought that the pedals would have so many parts!! So nice to watch it to relax after a tiresome day... and as always, you did a explendid job!! Cheers from São Paulo, Brazil!!
Fuel hose is not suitable for brake/clutch fluid. I suppose that you've checked the inner part of the cylinder for rust and pitting and change the piston. Great restoration job!
Brake/clutch hose/tubing also has rubber inside of them?.. In a matter of way it's the same type of hose ..So why are they not suitable for brake/clutch fluid @ChemaCT
@@Svensken8R Yes it's "rubber" but there are a lot of types of "rubber" depending on the fluid that run inside of them; for example, It's not the same a hose for oil that a hose for petrol, and there are two types of hoses for petrol, intended to be submerged on petrol and for external use.
Rubber Renew Tip There is special grease for rubber. The one I got is ruby red and smells kinda nice in an old memory way. Anyways: Clean & degrease your rubber part. Liberally administer the rubber grease on the part, rubbing it over with a soft toothbrush. Hang in a place that will get warm and cool. Like a boiler hoouse, or a glass house etc. Leave for a few days, or if you forget for weeks it doesnt matter really. Remove and clean the excess grease off using newspaper and various tools and techniches that you'll figure out easily. Rub down with a dedicated lint-free cloth or microfiber towel. Sometimes I just use gloves and don't mind the part remaining greasy a little bit. Obviously for pedals and grips thats not a good thing so do use the cloth and clean all surface grease off until the pedal / grip is slip-free. The heat/cool period allows the rubber to expand and contract and obsorb the rubber grease - rejuvinating itself. It is remarkable how a stiff old piece of rubber can becaome very flexible again. Note: The longer you do the heat/cool period, the more flexible the rubber becomes. So maybe keep a check on the piece as the days go by so you don't end up with a really floppy piece which may not then suit it's application.
I gave a like as soon I got the notification, paused the video made a cup of coffee so I can fully enjoy this video..As normally I Do, cant wait to watch it
@@RestoreIt Thanks so much, for the videos, really makes my day, can I ask you, why sometimes you do etch primer and sometimes you don't, as I am not a paint expert, but willing to learn.
Nice video. Coincidentally i restored mine RHD too few weeks back, there was tiny play at the bushings at the right angle lever inside the box and also near the servo rod, i replaced all with machined brass bushings, man now the pedals glide with almost no play. I also machined tiny brass bushings for the springs holes. All the best mate. Cheers
I really enjoy your videos. I watch them thorowly every time, they are awesome. But I was thinking it would be nice to see a finished project soon! With some nice shots on the roads of spain, it would look cool :)
Thank you for the video! It's good to have this for reference in the future - my clutch pedal is just now getting a bit sticky. Cheers! Edit: please check the compatibility of the hose you replaced. Fuel hose doesn't work well with brake fluid 😉
Hello mister Restore. Allow me to help you a little bit with the zinc plating. I learned how to plate thanks to you and I bought my kit from Caswell Canada. I have perfected the technic and I can now yield astonishing results consistantly. I suggest the use of a rust removal bath, like a chemical that do the job for you and because of that, using a brush wheel after will make them shine a lot more. I live in Canada and I buy "Metal rescue" for remove light rust. This really was a game changer for me because as it deeply improved the quality of the prepped parts before the plating. I use all this with an ultrasonic cleaner because I can heat up the tank. Its an integrated feature with the ultrasonic cleaner. Perfect for cleaning parts, a lot less manual work for microscopic parts. No need to leave the parts in acid for more dans 10 seconds as any amount of time over 30 sec in the acid bath will alter the shine of the steel part. It all comes down to how shiny was the part after you brushed it with the wire wheel. Zinc bath should be around 25°C, no more. It's way better if you have a small submersible pump in the plating bath to agitate the solution. Be generous with the zinc brightener, but not too generous. I don't know why your yellow chromate solution looks so light, mine is much darker, but this is where it all comes together. I noticed in your video that the yellow chromate rubbs off when you manipulate the parts. It first depends on how was the condition of the part after the plating. The shinier it was, the longer lasting the yellow chromate will be. Now to get the deep Gold look, leave the part in the yellow chromate tank for 30 seconds or more, rinse and then dry it fast, yeah very fast with the use of compressed air under 75psi. There must be no water left on the part. Do NOT use heat gun. It ruins the whole thing. Yellow chromate cannot withstand heat, so baking it or heating it up will make it crack, peel and fall off, turns to dust, will turn to a brownish look. Now to get a gold with redish and greenish tint, leave the part in yellow chromate bath for less than 20 sec and then dry it fast again. The second you dry it, you'll see the magic happen. This is when the colors green and red mixes with the gold finish. They quickly appear as you dry the part. It's truly beautiful. The parts get so shiny, they almost have a mirror like finish in some cases. Since I do this, I can handle the parts right away and put them in the car. There is no peeling at all, the finish is just as durable as what you can find in hardware stores I got tons of pictures. I can now get those results every time, but it took me around a 100 hours to master this.
My pleasure. And if I may, at 15:35, this is the point where you must add some brightener, like 1/4 of a teespoon or until the shine improves because all the parts I see are dull. They should have a mirror finish straight out of the bath. This way, you won't need to brush them after they're plated. You can't brush a yellow chromate finish, can you? Therefore, you MUST check each part and their shine while you plate them, taking them out the solution periodically to inspect them and spot any dull spots on the parts.
You can get that blue house online from German part suppliers. When doing similar build as yours on my Corrado I was able to source meter of hose and used it on 3 or 4 VWs
If you ever want to borrow any parts for restoration, please look no further, hell you could borrow the whole car if you like :D loving the e30 vids man, don't know how you find the time for all this work, keep it up man!!
You should break the bolt using a T bar or fixed arm. My brother used to fix loads ratchets where they had been used to break whatever you call that first bit. Those little pawl’s can’t take a lot of stress over and over again
Just to add.. as a alternative... seeing i personally i like the OEM KTL Bath coating on gaspedlas and its mounting frames.. VHT Chassis and rollbar paint (satin) . really does a splendid job to match that. and being epoxy. . looks allot like OEM just as a tip :)
Life pro tip, if you’re ever cleaning your car and you can’t clean the pedals very well. Just take the rubber cover off (not on the accelerator, bc they don’t usually have rubber on them) I’ve been doing that for a while.
This is what I'm all about really. The cars actually took away from this sytle of videos but Rusty Nut Restorations is going to be just this style of vidoe. All coming soon :)
As always very good video. The springs are replaced or restored ? Because they have a lifespan The spring fatigue worth some thought But for this application why not restore them Though the displacement of the spring is large, the load is low It's not easy to define the remaining lifespan
Nice job but to make it seem more real next time, have an intro where you find it in a field you're ploughing and use your feet to hold some of the tools
Brilliant! This turned out great as usual. Are you doing anything in particular with this pedal box? You mentioned that you had already restored one previously.
About the hose? Are you sure this hose is resistant to dot 3 or dot 4? And original is braided as it is close to the exhaust headers. And also the grommet for the clutch hose i think it is in reversed direction
You're not wrong Yasnick. I wanted to replace it in the video and so i used the only hose that I had at the time that would fit. I recommend Omaar changes this for an original. Cheers.
Thanks! I'd say about 50 hours or so including the filming and editing but if I only had to do the resto. It could be done in two 8 hour days easy I think.
Electroplating hydrogen released on the surface of the part penetrates into the crystal lattice of the part, this leads to a decrease in the strength of the part. After applying zinc, the parts are heated in ovens at a temperature of 200 degrees. If this is not done, the part will lose strength by about 40%. This is important for springs and mechanically loaded parts. you can experiment with nails (galvanized and not galvanized), they will break in different ways. good luck with the construction. google translator sorry
![1986 BMW E30 Pedal Box - [Restoration]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
