1989 Ford F-150 IDLE PROBLEM FOUND!! 

Shawn Miller I bought mine on EBay! Make sure you match the numbers on the ECU and it should be a direct swap!

@@MrMarineGomez found that it's 100 % computer and I has broken off capasators and corroded I think the Extreem bass helped it allong cause the board is cracked by a capasator the firewall dose flex pretty good with the system all the way up

@@MrMarineGomez what was price range some of prices I've seen are about 400

Shawn Miller I purchased mine when I posted the video for about $100 on EBay. What is the part number, year make and model for your vehicle? I can try to help you look for one! Also, automatic or manual transmission?

@@MrMarineGomez I'll have to pull it back out of truck I didn't write them down but had to move truck so it went back together for temporary

Did you figure it out?

@@blakeseales6143 Sold it

Did this ever straighten out? Wondering if system was doing a little relearning?

Get a Actron CP9680 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, transmission codes, oxygen sensor codes, and MORE! It comes in a black pouch. It has code- connect to diagnose codes. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included, under the rear screw. It's well-lit. EBAY has it.

@Integra DIY - Did you ever get your acceleration issue figured out? If yes, what was the fix?

I've got the same deal with mine wtf?

@@thomasjefferson2938 Get a Actron CP9680 code tester. It checks codes. It has code-connect to diagnose codes. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, Oil light turn off, check engine light reset, and MORE! The screen is well-lit. It works from 1984-2013 and is updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. The CP9680 works on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It comes in a black pouch. Get 4 aaa batteries for under the rear cover. It stores test results until erased. The MAF may need cleaning on your truck. Check the EGR valve and circuit. Try fuel- injector cleaner. Remove the IAC valve to see if it's dirty. Also the EGR. Maybe the fuel filter is dirty. Check fuel pressure. The CP9680/CP9690 may can check fuel pressure. Check the plugs etc. Check for vacuum leaks. Check the fuses.

So what was the problem

Yes and I replaced what the codes called for and nothing. Everything went away when I replaced the ECU

Any updates? Did it work?

@@carlosmartinez8335 the problem was the PSOM or speedometer computer board, it was not reading the speed sensor from rear differential sottering points were bad sent it to module mechanics and they fixed it for a$100 bucks, was so frustrating to figure out but that fixed it 100%

Terminxman Believe me, it is very common for them to go bad. You can easily remove the computer and open the cover and inspected for any burnt parts

I'd be doing it right now if I didn't have it at a shop and I had the time, but I know this guy won't screw me so I'm gonna just let him work it I guess. Kind of wish I'd dug into it more myself though.

Terminxman Well let me know what you find out! Or what he finds out!

I'm about down to actually pulling the ECM, can't think of anything else it could be. To be clear, you fixed this ECM and reinstalled it and you confirmed that it fixed the issue?

Terminxman I replaced the ECU instead of fooling with it. I didn’t have a good soldering iron at the time so it was just easier to replace it.

Jeff Burton not sure! Just saw it lol. That was weird!

Dave Zol Dude, I was like why does it still have that slight miss!? So yeah the computer was the problem!

I think alot more ppl have this issue than they know i bought a bronco recently and i have years or service records with it and its been to the shop 4 times for the same thing ...im bout to hit a junk yard And pull come computers and do some testing

Dave Zol yeah man, they made the capacitors in those motherboards to only work for so many hours and then they burn out. Tell tell sign is if you have a check engine light on and pull the codes and then you replace the parts, in my case, MAP sensor, IACV, EGR valve, and it still had the same lights on. Most likely burnt out capacitors on the computer board. I just went ahead and bought one on eBay and replaced it and it ran PERFECTLY. Make sure you match the VIN number as well!

Thats shitty of ford to do.. but technology wasnt great back then im going to pull my computer to inspect it for burns thanks man

Dave Zol sometimes thy won't have burn marks but sometimes they will. You'll just have to test them with a multimeter

Anthony Cusumano Pull the ECM and inspect it!

You where right there is blown Resistor on the ecm mother board. thanks again great video

Anthony Cusumano Im glad it helped!

And ive changed distributor ecm and coil and ignition switch added a few grounds and still wont stay running right idles up n down ran tests its throwing 412 116 332 411

RockAuto! Make sure you match up the Numbers on it though!

al tep it could be your ECU if you replaced the EGR and the problem did not go away.

Replace the charcoal canister purge valve if you get improper vacuum at the EGR. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, transmission codes, oxygen sensor codes, and MORE! It has Code connect to diagnose codes. It comes in a black pouch. It works on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It has a cable for OBDII. The screen is well-lit. It uses 4 aaa batteries under the rear cover, not included. It retains the memory of results until removed by testing another car. EBAY has it.

No it does not! Just swap them out!

I know that if the throttle position sensor goes bad it will cause your truck to hesitate,sputter,or bog down when you give it gas....or maybe your belt to hooked up rite on your water pump....if it was fine before u changed your pump then it’s doing it now I would start there but who knows...hope u get it fixed

@@walker1474 thanks man i got it fixed the other day but i have an issue with the start solenoid it keeps burning up idk how that keeps happening

Joe Buchanan a little late but yes, it would wine in every gear. Annoying it held up fine!

@@RyanGauvin-mr8dn yes it did. Ran like new after I replaced it!

@@MrMarineGomez the reason I asked, about to go that route myself.

Big_Joes Riding_Mowers that’s very interesting! At least the transmission is good now!

I'm having transmission issues too. What happened with yours?

The computer controls the e40d automatic transmission through the shift sylonoids inside transmission. And the sensors on transmission , working with speed sensor and engine sensors mainly map sensor to detect engine load.

Also the throttle position sensor

I know this is an old comment. But one day my truck slowed down. Wouldnt shift. OD light was flashing. I thought my trans had went out. Then would go into reverse find but wouldnt drive for shit. Almost like a "limp mode". After doing some searching... changed the ECM. Fixed the issue.

T Armas a misfire that would not go ahead.

Ahhh it came back lol then my inertia switch went out. Lmfao so I jus wired it straight I can rev the engine in neutral and the idle goes back down, but now when I push in my clutch and let out in whatever gear I'm starting whether it's reverse first or second the idle rev to about 2.5 and stay there until they shut the engine off and turn it back on and it usually goes away. Not my computer or ecm whatever it's brand new

My 89 has similar idling issues did you find a solution?

Joseph Rothrock it was about $100! Bought it on EBay and it was a direct swap. No ref lashing or anything. Make sure you match the ECU numbers on your current board with the one you are looking at!

Matt Ranaudo look at the engine bay on the firewall at the bottom in the driver side. You’ll see a thick wire loom where it connects to the ECU

👍🏼

anthony morales I end up replacing the ECU completely but it fixed my issue 100%

cedric simmons how is it working almost a year later?

Leonel Soto EBay! Pull the ECU, match the numbers on it to the ones that are for sale! Direct swap with no need to program it.

@@MrMarineGomez thanks for the reply. Hopefully this will FINALLY fix my idle problem. Liked and subscribed

@@leonelsoto733 did a new ecu fix your truck?

It did fix the issue!

@@leonelsoto733 well shiiiit, I think I'ma have to pull the ecu on my truck as well mine keeps hesitating and bogs down as I push the skinny pedal.

Id just put a resistor on that green striped wire, could probably fix it

That's an electrolytic capacitor. They do blow time to time especially if they get warm. The electrolyte will often "leak" out of them with some force when they blow causing the burn mark. They sometimes go off like a .22 bullet. The burn mark in this case is almost 100% guaranteed to be from the cap.

I'm an electrical engineer. The test he talked in the video does work but it wont tell you if a capacitor is within it's proper range, only if it's failed completely. Sometimes a 47uF cap might only be providing 4uF and this test wouldn't tell you that. Using an ohm meter on a capacitor will start at low impedance and slowly climb as the capacitor charges from the test voltage that the ohmmeter is providing through the leads. If it reads less than a few ohms and isn't changing then the capacitor is shorted internally. If it reads infinity/OL then it's likely open (failed). The catch is that you have to remove the capacitors. If it's still hooked up to the rest of the circuit board, then you are also testing all the other things it's connected to. At the end when he said that the cap on the upper right was 100ohms and not changing, that probably doesn't mean the cap it bad, it could just be that there is a 100ohm resistance elsewhere in the circuit. Lots of cheap multimeters have a proper capacitance test mode that will do a proper test. I use a AN8008 which is only $20 and has a cap mode. You still need to remove the cap from the circuit to test it correctly though. Hope that helps!

@@VTOffRoadAdventures Since he said that the cap appeared to work when he tested it with the ohmmeter, my guess is that the leads had corroded and become partially disconnected. Then sparking across the tiny gap where the lead broke due to vibration is what caused the carbon deposits on the PCB. It's likely the cap has leaked and it probably bad too. Your right they can sometimes explode, but more often they just leak or just lose their capacitance.