1994 to 2003 Ford F250 F350 7.3L ICP 1807329C92 Sensor Change 

If you unplug it, and it still won't run then that's most likely not your problem. There are many things that can cause a 7.3L not to run. I have a Word Perfect Document and a jpg on things to check. If you pm me on FaceBook I'll message them to you. facebook.com/Keith.Noneya.On.YT/

Thanks Shane glad the video helped you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

The first 2 are ford part numbers, the 2nd 2(c91&c92) are international harvester numbers.

Glad to help anytime. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks Devon, glad you liked it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're welcome Lapaz. When I was a kid my grandparents lived in Glendora and we used to visit them all the time, small world huh.

Glad to help. Hope all went well, Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

LOL, you're welcome Tyson, glad it helped. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Thanks Rue. Glad to help, Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Glad to help Randy. Don't forget to use the scanner to clear the code so if you have future issues that code won't be stored and you start chasing an already solved problem. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Cleared the codes before I changed the ICP sensor and then rechecked afterwards too.👌🤙

​@@keithnoneya how do i clear the codes if it doesn't show codes even to the silly code reader mine nor O'Reilly code reader showed any codes

@@larrywarren1049 LOL ok how do I make the sky blue when it's already blue? Ok Ok, Sorry I couldn't resist, I know what you mean. Most have an option to read Pending Codes that have been stored which are intermittent Codes that are set but don't meet the PCM's criteria for a hard code. Some vehicles you can just remove the battery leads and let it sit for an hour. However most modern PCM's have what's called "Non-Volatile" Memory meaning it will still store the Pending Codes without battery power. To erase those codes you need a code reader that has the "Erase Codes" options, note that option should erase both Pending and Hard codes. I hope that helps and you're ok with my off humor at your question. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya thank you very much for the quick response and I will look for it on the readers

Glad to help. I try to make all my videos complete with tips and tricks; Tools, Parts, Where to get them, Price, Chemicals n Consumables needed to get the job done. Thanks for watching Chris feel free to contact me anytime. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Ah thanks Alan. Glad to help, Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

LOL yeah, it's one of my sorter video's. I tailor most of my videos in a teaching mode for beginners. Thanks for the thanks Bill. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

⁶⁷8th 8th ⁷and is the next time

Glad to help bud. Thanks for the comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're welcome Saulo. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're welcome, glad you liked it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Sorry to hear about his misfortune. That's one of the reasons I taped over the alternator. Removing jewellery is always a good safety measure. Thanks for sharing the good warning. Best wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

That'll teach him. I bet he won't get in a hurry next time.

Thanks for the comment, glad it helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You know YT is funny sometimes, I just got your response in my notifications today. Glad you were able to fix it. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

Thanks Jeffrey glad it helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

WOW I posted that over 5 years ago, in July of 2016, and you're the 1st person to catch that! Just goes to show no matter how hard I try to get them Vids right, with over 200K views someones gonna catch any mistakes I make. I updated the Description right after I read your comment Thanks for looking out for us Customs. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya haha. yeah sorry, I didn't mean to nitpick. I do like when people list the tools they use and their sizes that is how I caught it. I am looking do this on my 7.3 and that is how I found your video. It should make you feel good to know that your video even after 5 years is still helping newbies out. Now if I can only find the sizes for the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube... 🤔

@@Custom-ui1ly Nah that's ok, I'm still amazed at how popular some of the videos are and that people still find goof ups I made in them. At least despite the boo boo's they still help people. Try this guys video on that EBT and sensor. He also has some good 7.3L videos you might find helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XLZI2wMpn5I.html Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I used the Crow Foot to loosen the ICP. When I took my Turbo off I didn't use a crow foot, I used a Breaker Bar and Extensions and it worked really well. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

The7.3L diesel Injectors in the are opened by Hi Pressure Oil, produced by the High Oil Pressure Pump (HIPOP), so fuel can be injected into the cylinders. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) needs to know if there is oil pressure open them. The Injector Control Pressure (ICP) sensor tells the PCM what that pressure is. If it isn't working properly the engine doesn't run well or in rare cases not at all. A simple way to tell if the ICP is causing an engine not to run is to simply unplug it. When the ICP is unplugged the PCM knows this and sets a default setting so the truck can still be driven. The only downside of just unplugging it is poor fuel economy. If the engine runs after it's unplugged then either the wiring harness is bad or the ICP is. There are two very informative channels I go to on many occasions. Try these two YT channels for some really good information, Custom Works and powerstrokehelp. I hope you also find my channel helpful in maintaining your 7.3L. Let me know if I can answer any other questions. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yep they can if you take car of them. Go check this guy out he's one of my favorite YT Channels. ru-vid.com/show-UCQz2vFEc1m-WGKf6g-pz9DA Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Except when Bill gives bad advice, like taking the turbo compressor fan off with an impact gun and using same impact gun to re-install the new fan. See the highlight in yellow for the wicked wheel(I'm guessing they saw the same video I saw): www.dieselsite.com/ww2_gtp38.aspx

Very good advice Trey, I'm glad you provided the link as well. I will NOT use an impact to do mine like Bill does. Thanks for the great comment. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

I'm nearing half a million miles on my 2000 F350, just take care of it, they go a long long time.

Fernando, not sure about that. You might have to go to a forum to get the answer to that one. Sometimes I just do a search on ebay and Amazon and check the part numbers. You will have to make sure it has the same gear ratio as the one you pull out. You can also go to the junk yard and they'll give you a print out of all the part numbers and vehicles that would have one that'll fit. Sorry I can't be of more help. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Hi Tasha. Does it turn over but not start or just not turn over?

Wow. Sure hope you had some kind of oil treatment in it, like Prolong, Sick 50 etc to protect the bearings. You could have air in your oil/injector lines now. Run the codes and see what comes up. If it's low injector pressure, it's probably air. You may have to turn it over for awhile for it to build up. This is my GUESS! I've never run across this problem before. If doing some simple fixes don't help try the forums or heck take it to the dealer. If you call a few dealers and talk to the mechanics they should give you some better advice than I can. Man let me know how this one works out. Can't say it has never happened to me on a gas engine, but never a diesel, but there's always a first, as I have someone else do my oil. Keep in touch. Keith Noneya

Hi Samantha. Sorry for the late reply. I'm sure it will cause the speed sensor to stop working. I'm not sure about the rest of it but it would make sense to me if it did cause the cruise control to stop. I haven't had that problem yet so I can't say for sure. If your truck has ABS, which most do, your truck should have four, one per wheel. It looks like on eBay they're going for under $10.00 bucks each. I would check the wiring for corrosion and clean the contacts and try it again. Then I would just bite the bullet and change all four, as $40.00 bucks is not a lot to get a truck up and running. If one is gone out the others can't be far behind. Hope this points you in the right direction. Let me know what fixed it. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith noneya

Hi Hugo, one of the main start problems with the 7.3 is actually the starter itself. They are quite robust but most of the time to go bad slowly. If the batteries are good, the cables and connections are good. try the starter. I changed both batteries and the truck just got harder and harder to start. After I changed my starter it turned over just fine and starts easily now. From my research when a 7.3 has a hard start issue it's one or two of the following: - Corroded battery connectors. - Weak batteries. - Weak Starter. Taking the starter apart and inspecting the rotor contacts can tell you most of the time. If there are holes in the copper brush contacts and they are grey n blue it's bad. See this video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6iXi5L2FZdY.html - Bad ICP, this causes a hard start or intermittent start. You can take the connector off and if it runs better or normal then the ICP is most likely bad. - Internal Pressure regulator IPR, if you don't regulate the pressure it can start hard or run erratic. See this video by YT Trey Spooner: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fzdRwjo4pbY.html - Fuel filter either on the engine or the two inside the gas tank. Very common in older 7.3's in areas where the quality and filtering of the fuel is not the best. - Bad Fuel Pump, doesn't happen very often but they do go bad. - Hi Pressure Oil pump, if the engine can't open the injectors properly you'll get reduced power, hard starts sometimes. - Those are the most common that I can think of. Check out these other YT Channels for some great tips. powerstrokehelp Trey Spooner DieselTechRonFordTechMakuloco Hope this helps. Fell free to ask more questions, if I know the answer i'll get back to you.

WOW, HOW did I miss that! I know these trucks pretty well and know that! Ironically I got it right in the description write up. Of all the people who watched this video, I think you're the only one to catch it! I love that you let me know. Seriously thank you for keeping me straight. I'll fix it asap! Please keep me on my toes, I don't like to give out bad information. Seriously Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

No it didn't come on. If your check engine light comes on, put a code reader on it and do a web search on the code. Make sure and read the description and some of the comments, you just may find a solution to your problem. Best wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya so I just pulled mine and it is bad but my check engine light keeps coming on and off randomly would this cause it to do this and it randomly stalls in idle but if im driving she drives smooth

Also it will not pull a code at all even when the check engine lights comes on there is no code at all

​@@morganledbetter459Hi Morgan. Hum a lot of things can cause that. The ones that readily come to mind are the CPS, the ICP the IPR the wiring connectors for those and last but not least the internal wiring under the valve covers. Since you can't pull a code I have to ask what tool are you using? If it one of those cheap Bluetooth readers they sometimes won't read at all. If it is, try getting a BAFX Products OBDII Bluetooth Reader. They cost about $21.00 and work extremely well. You can download the Torque Lite app for free, however I recommend the Torque Pro for $4.99. it's well worth it because you can monitor way more with it than you can with Torque Lite. Here's few truck links for you to check out. My CPS video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SqfzFlDiy7U.html The ICP this video you commented on. The IPR Video on Trey Spooners Truck Stuff here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fzdRwjo4pbY.html and last but not least Fix It Nick’s the Quarter Injector Wiring Harness Mod here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SyqLYbY20vA.html Granted there are a few more things that can cause your problem but those are the ones that come to mind. I would try changing the CPS & ICP 1st, they like to go out anyways and at one point the CPS will leave you stranded so just buy an Actual Ford CPS about $28.00 off eBay. If those don't solve your problems, get the BAFX Bluetooth reader and do a little diagnosing. Owning a 7.3L in itself, it's kind of needed to have a BAFX scanner to keep an eye on the engine and be able to diagnose it easily anyways. The reason is they are not that hard to work on, but taking it to a shop can get expensive and a code reader can point you in the right direction to a less expensive fix, especially if you can do it yourself. If you still can't figure it out, well you're going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop and have them run the codes, or do a diagnostic on their better scanners. I hope this points you in the right direction. If it does please subscribe to help my channel. I also have some great 7.3L videos in the editing stage or about to be worked on; Rear HUB service, Drive Lind Rebuild, Rear Brakes, AC series, Conversion to 05-07 NO CUT Headlight Assembly Upgrade on the 99-04 F350, AUXITO LED Head Light Upgrade “my new channel sponsor”, and soon how to replace the Front Hub Assembly, Sulastic Suspension Shock Upgrade Etc. If you need any more questions answered I'll try and answer them or point in the right direction. On my channel you’ll always get more than you need and more than you asked for. Here in Southern Louisiana we call it Lagniappe! Pronounced LAN-YAP! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

These engines are highly reliable but like all they have some quirks and some things to check when you have a no start. 1st pull the code, with a no start it probably won’t pop one, but it never hurts to check. Regarding your ICP, these engines are designed to run with the ICP sensor disconnected in a default setting. When unplugged you’ll get worse fuel mileage but it should run. You may have a wiring harness problem that burnt out the old sensor, and that's why it ran. You can do a quick check and just pull the connector off and see if the truck will start. If it starts put it back on, and see if the problem comes back, if it does you probably have a wiring issue, ECM or an IDM issue. If you changed the connector, check to make sure you put all the wires in the right spot. Here’s a few things that will cause a no start but allow the engine to turn over: - CPS (Crank Position Sensor) the most common. - IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator). - HIPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump). - Valve Cover Wiring Harness. Careful this has over 100vac on it when the ignition is on. - IDM (Injector Driver Module) on pickups it’s located under the drivers side fender just in front of the door and under the fender Powerstroke badge. - Lift pump failure, this will definitely cause a no start. One way to rule this out is to check the fuel bowl for fuel before and while cranking. If no fuel is in the fuel bowl, fill the bowl up with clean fuel and if it starts replace the pump. - Here’s an article you may want to read on 9 most common problems with the 7.3L: dieseliq.com/9-common-problems-with-73-power-stroke-diesel-engines/ Hope this points you in the right direction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Google Translate; Intermittent power, weak power when pulling out, NO START, poor mileage. The easiest way to find out if the sensor is causing the problem is to unplug it. If the problem goes away, (Except Poor Mileage) then the ICP is bad. Unplugging the ICP puts the computer into default mode, which will lower your fuel economy. Take a look in the description and also take a look at some of the comments for some more information. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya Traductor de google; Potencia intermitente, potencia débil al arrancar, SIN ARRANQUE, bajo kilometraje. La forma más fácil de averiguar si el sensor está causando el problema es desconectarlo. Si el problema desaparece (excepto el kilometraje deficiente), entonces el ICP es malo. Desenchufar el ICP pone la computadora en el modo predeterminado, lo que reducirá el consumo de combustible. Eche un vistazo a la descripción y también eche un vistazo a algunos de los comentarios para obtener más información. Espero que ayude. Los mejores deseos y bendiciones. keith noneya

It's a connector Seal. I doubt you can get one separately. You may try a wrecking yard and pull one off the wiring harness. However a pigtail is cheap at $4.59 to keep your truck running. Here's eBay item number:123881070244 If your harness is good then just pull the seal off the one in the yard and put it on yours. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Probably one of the most asked questions when someone sees oil in the connector. No you don't have to change the Pigtail like many say too. Oil is none conductive so just clean it. Mine had oil all up in it and I cleaned it and it has been fine since I changed my ICP in July of 2016, 9 years ago. I used to work on Aircraft Electronics, Wiring and fixed Electronic Test Equipment for over 42 years. So trust me when I say, just clean out with some Contact Cleaner or some Brake Clean and dry it off quickly if using Brake Clean as the Chemicals like to soften the seals. Canned computer keyboard air is good if you don't have an air compressor. Great question, I wish more people knew this because often then not they get the wires mixed up. Also in the future when doing automotive splices try to stick to the "Water Proof" or Environmental Sealed Splices to keep water out so they don't corrode if they get wet. Hope it all works out good for you. You can also find me on Face Book 7.3L Powerstroke Nation as Keith Dereck. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya 😁

Hi Chuck sorry for the late reply, but I've been away from the house and my computer all day. Try watching Powerstrokehelp's video on "Longevity Leaks 1 & 2" here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nmwJHt_ERxs.html Also if you need to fix the oil leak on the back of the passenger or drivers head, try FordTechMukoloco's video here; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fxYHPNrrBiU.html Hope that helps point you in the right direction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hey Keith thanks man, I appreciate the response. Have a great day

It worked for me, but thanks for the extra information. LOVE Diesel Tech Ron, RIP. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya but in your video you show a 17 mm and you said it was previously broken loose. I’m just saying that it is a 16mm or 5/8 .. I can’t believe that with having 1/4 million views that there aren’t people saying that it’s wrong. I didn’t have crowsfoot or stubby wrenches.. if we were talking regular sockets then no big deal. I went to harbor freight and bought a set of crowsfoot that had 17mm but not the 16. 17 was loose and stripped. Going back tomorrow to get stubby and or 5/8 crowsfoot. The old sensors are a pain in the ass to remove.. I liked your video but screwed me on not getting the right size.. have a good one. In your description you have it backwards saying it should be a 16mm instead of 17 mm

@@ILovepoolsandspas Hum I thought you were the the 1st one to catch that, but I checked the comment and others have indirectly mentioned it. I will check the video and the Description and put a note in the description that people have commented that the Crow Foot should be a 16mm not a 17mm. Sorry it messed you up, but I'm glad the rest of the video useful for you. I try hard to give out good information and I REALLY appreciate with someone takes the time to let me know there's a problem with the information I put out. Unfortunately I don't know how to fix the video without deleting it and loosing the views and standing it has, but I can amend the Description at the top so people see that right off the bat. Thanks again for your positive feedback, I love viewers like you who help me put out accurate content. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya hopefully I will get the sensor out tomorrow.. No worries Keith have a great one and thanks for responding! 😀👍🍺

How'd the sensor job go bud?

Merry Christmas Samuel. - F4TZ is for 1994 to early 1997 it will work but I've read where it will fail sooner if used in a 97.5 to 2003 7.3. - F6TZ is for 1997.5 to 2003. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hey Joanna, nope I don't think the ICP will effect the fuel pump at all. Most ECM's tell the pump to turn on to ensure the engine has enough fuel pressure before it allows the engine to turn over, and that's if it's controlled by the ECM, I don't know since I haven't had the pleasure of dealing with the fuel pump on the 7.3L diesel yet. If you put a new pump in and it's not working after you put a wire to it i'd say your fuel pump still has a problem or it's designed to only hood up one way so it will only turn one way. Those pumps are very reliable so if you pulled the old one and put a new one in and it still didn't turn over I'd say you have an electrical problem for sure. Check the forums and the book. Sorry I can't be more help on this one, I just don't have the experience on the fuel pumps. Let me know how it works out so if I run into the same problem I may be able to fix mine. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I didn't do that and I did mine over three years ago, so I guess not. If you find that reference I would be most interested in it so I don't pass out bad info. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

The engine will naturally purge any air in the system as you drive.

It sounds like the dreaded CPS problem. It's a very easy fix. Here's a video on how to change it. Make sure and look in the description for the part number F7TZ-12K073-B. If you go to the dealer it's will cost you an arm and a leg. If you go to eBay or Amazon you can get one for around $30.00 bucks or less. Buy an original Ford unit only. Here's the link to the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SqfzFlDiy7U.html Let me know if you need anything else. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS stay tuned to the channel I have some video's on the brakes and rear wheel hub rebuild coming.

OH thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hi Bradley, mine was leaking oil and it finally leaked so much that it was making it's way to the driveway. The ICP (Injection Control Pressure Sensor) tells the ECM what the pressure is going to the injectors. The ECM uses this information combined with engine RPM to regulate how long the injectors stay open, to help regulate fuel flow. When the ICP quits or goes intermittent it can also cause some weird engine running and idle problems. The quickest way to check it is to just unplug it and see if the problem goes away. The reason it appears to go away is if the ECM does not detect the ICP it sets the injectors to a default setting. You could run the truck that way but your power and MPG would suffer. Beings the generic ones don't cost much, "If in doubt change it out". You can also take it to a dealer or even purchase some OBD II diagnostic equipment, like OBD Auto Doctor. It connects to your phone, laptop or pad via Bluetooth and I believe the paid version has a section for ICP pressure. Well hope I filled your ears enough, drop me a message if you have anymore questions. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

I would actually agree and disagree with you on the pigtail. Here's my explanation. Oil will not hurt wires or it's ability to conduct. It will only help the wires move more freely if it gets into the wires, it will also help repel water which is a major cause of corrosion in wiring harnesses. Also to break into a sealed wiring harness offers the opportunity to invite moisture and corrosion. I have been involved with repairing wiring harnesses in aircraft and electrical test equipment for over 35 years. I would agree with you that "IF" the wiring harness has corrosion or breaks in the insulation to ABSOLUTELY replace the section that is damaged or has corrosion in it. Thanks for your insight and comment. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

@@keithnoneya Wrong. Oil into wiring causes all kinds of irregular resistance issues. This will cause engines not to run right. Take a diesel engine with an injector harness that goes into the head. Have replaced countless harnesses due to oil leaking through the seal, into the harness....

@@FlyrodsOnly Hum wonder what they make Electrical Connector Silicon Grease out of, Petroleum maybe. Seen a ton of wires in my life soaked in oil; airplane wiring, ignition systems in cars, trucks, mowers, and it never saw it make one bit of difference. More than likely the problem is the wire itself already had issues, or it may have attracted dirt that could have had something in it conductive. It would make an interesting video to use an OBDII software to monitor the voltage/pressure clean, then put oil in the connector and see if it changes. I might just do that so see if it actually does make a difference in run-ability or a change in value in the ICP return voltage, I highly doubt it, but it might actually be fun to do. I doubt it because even if it did change it a little the operating window for the injectors is so wide I doubt it would make any difference at all. If it does I'll definitely shoot you a return comment and agree with you 100% and say so in the comment. Been known to be wrong a few times and I always say so if I am. Thanks for the comment, it definitely gave me an interesting idea! Anyways based on my experience of over 42.5 years of doing automotive work & Aircraft Electronics, I'll believe it when I see it. Still though, Best Wishes & Blessings FlyRods. Keith Noneya

Try the "CPS", Cam Postilion Sensor here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SqfzFlDiy7U.html There are some other things that can cause that, but those are the two most common. Another common problem is the foot gas peddle, it has a wired sensor in it . It is not connected to the throttle body it is only connected to the computer. Let us know what you find out. Try this video on 7.3L sensors. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KWiP1DcwsP0.html Let us know what fixes it. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

i change yesterday the cam sensor and same problem just what I dont do was change the pig tail harness for the sensor i will change on this week and i keep post the see what solution have

Changing the pigtail if it's in good shape may not solve the problem. If you can ohm it out that will tell you if it's bad. If you do change it out make sure you use environmental splices to keep moisture out of the wiring. If moisture gets in the wiring you'll have corrosion and some intermittent problems. Since you have already changed the ICP and CPS the next one I would try is the gas peddle, or TPAS Throttle Position Assembly Sensor It's very easy to do, but they cost about $75.00 bucks or more. There are two types, one with the sensor as part of the Peddle Assembly and one that you can change the sensor. Make sure you get the right one. If you have another truck around you can swap them to see if it works or try to get one from the wrecking yard. They do go bad from time to time. I've changed mine once so far. Keep us posted. Keith Ps here's a link to the Environmental or Crimp-less Water proof Splices. Keith www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pack-4-Sizes-Waterproof-Solder-Sleeve-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Terminal-Connectors/162230575381?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3Dc5fa818e2ce44e8e832416cd2012df5a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D192050219620

Instead of being parts changers, wouldn't getting a code reader telling you what the specific problem(s) is be the way to go? The answer is usually yes.

I agree with you 100%, that's provided the reader is correct and the problem is not obvious. In my case I clearly state why i'm changing is and you can physically see the problem at time index 1:32. Thanks for the comment and keep em running Mike. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

The truck ran ok, but I was having oil drain onto the driveway so I tracked it down the sensor. I'm sure it was the original from 2001 o I guess it was time for it to take the Celestial Dirt Nap after all those years. However there are a few indications that the ICP is bad, loss of power, intermittent surging, all the way up to a crank but no start. You can check for a failed ICP by running a scan on the PCM with an OBDII but an intermittent one will require a scan tool with some software, like FORSCAN or TorquePro that you can used to actually watch the ICP pressures over a graph for drop outs. I hope that helps answer your question. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thank you for replying i appreciate

Giancarlo, I had oil leaking out of the sensor, I also had lower mileage and intermittent stumbles at highway speeds. There are some other factors that also duplicate the problems listed above. A better explanation is in the "Description SHOW MORE" of my video on how to change the CPS Sensor Here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SqfzFlDiy7U.html Feel free to ask more questions if you like. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

The problem with my f250 is that the engine does not want to start when it is hot, and I think the problem could be the ICP

If you disconnect the ICP the computer will not sense it and will provide a default injection pressure. If the engine starts when it's hot after disconnecting the ICP then you may have found your problem. There are some other sensors that can keep it from running. Did you check out the CPS sensor link I sent you? You can try this video too on sensors for the 7.3L: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KWiP1DcwsP0.html . Let us know what you find please. Keith

Hey GMan I ran across this after work. You might want to check it out sounds exactly like your problem. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P9Ol4r4jREk.html . Hope this helps. Keith

If you change the ICP and it still throws an ICP code check the connector and wiring harness. You should know that the ICP is so that the ECM can fine tune the pressure. If the harness has an open it's just like taking the connector off the ICP and the ECM will use a default setting so the engine will appear to run fine then it will pop the ICP code until the wiring harness is fixed. There are probably other things that can do that but a bad connection or a broken wire is most likely the problem, if the ICP has been changed and it still pops an ICP code. Also make sure the contacts in the connector are not corroded. Run a small drill bit in and out of the connector, but do NOT twist it, you just want the drill bit to remove any corrosion or contaminates. Clean it with connector cleaner, put connector grease in it and give it a try. Let us know how it goes. Best wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya

PS I know this is two weeks old, but make sure your erase the codes after each code repair. Sorry I forgot to mention that in my last reply, I just assumed you had done that, but just in case you didn't know that you can take it to most Automotive Part stores and have it done for free when they check your codes for free. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Keith Noneya yeah I got it figured it out thanks!

I do believe you are correct, except for one caveat, I looked it up and it said as early as 97 to 2003 for the Ford Engine designed by International for them, however it does work for any 7.3L designed by International for Ford or other companies as well in the 7.3L from 94.5 to 03. I'm still curious if you have a link to why it won't work on the 94.5 through 03. I don't like to put out bad information so if you can provide that link I would like to use it in my description as an explanation, and what to use in it's place for the 94.5 to 97. Seriously I appreciate the comment! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Put a OBDII code reader on it and see what it says. Try just disconnecting the ICP connector on top. If it runs normal replace the sensor or find the bad or corroded wire. There's also: - Fuel pump, but they're usually pretty solid and work for ever it's on the frame under the drivers seat. You can put a fuel pressure gauge there and see if it's pumping. - Fuel Tank felt filters that clog up. You'll have to pull the tank to check or clean those. - Pressure Control regulator behind the HIPOP in the valley, they get stuck sometimes. You can pull it and clean it. A bit of a bear but it's doable. - Injector Control Module, IDM, those do go bad or intermitant. There's just a ton of things that can cause that. Do a search on RU-vid for that. You'll find a lot of possibilities and how to check them. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya thanks mate I appreciate your help I have a Chevy suburban 6.5 also have a similar electric fuel pump in same place!! and i never replaced but a year ago I removed a fuel tank and clean it and fuel lines also I changed a crap electronic fuel pump to manual pump without that crap PMD now the engine going like a perfect and fiability engine 👌 but on this 7.3 not possible anuler the ECM or other fuel system!! this engine have a lot electronics sensors! anyway my last trip to Portugal on last summer the engine working great without any problems 👌 i'm really satisfied with this 7.3 international but a couple days ago when I started in morning I feel the noise are not the same 😞 and no power enough for driving on road! I have luck because I turned around and back home and he takes me home 👌 just I changed a fuel filter and nothing happened!! the weather is not good for fixing the car on the street! a lot snow! but some day I trying find out what a hell happening 😃 I let you know if I need more details 👌 have a great evening cheers from Norway

Post a video of what's wrong with it. The best thing you can do right now is put the code reader on it, and list the results. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Today about $120 for OEM.

There's probably one in the service Manual, but I haven't a clue what it is. It's not much, just snug it up with a wrench and that should be fine. Snug it up = after it stops turning easily go 1/4 turn more. Fire it up and check it for leaks. If it leaks go another 1/8 turn. If it leaks after that, pull it our and wrap some Teflon tape on it and repeat the process. That's how I did mine and it hasn't leaked since I installed it 2 - 1/2 years ago. Hope that helps point you in the right direction. Best wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Great Question. If you have a professional business get the original. If you're like me just putting around like the rest of us, get two cheaper ones. Put one in and put the other one behind the back seat for an emergency back up. That's what I did and the one I put in is still working great. If you shop around you can get an original Ford for about the same price. Look at the comments below the video. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya Very helpful. I got the original just now. I have a business relying on it.

You get what you pay for....

Sort shuts off

@@stephenprosser2621 Hey Stephen I can be, but normally if this item goes out the engine won't run or is intermittent at any RPM. You can just disconnect the ICP and then check to see if the problem goes away. If it does then it could be the problem. When at idle it could also be you have an intermittent IPR or CPS. Since you have a 97 I would put an OBDII reader on it and see what codes pop on it and then go from there. Hope that helps point you in the right directions. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

might be your IPR. happened to me. but mine would shut-off just driving down the road.

Hola hugo No soy un mecánico diesel. Pero pruebe el sensor de posición del acelerador en el acelerador. Tiene una resistencia que se rompe, Se comporta intermitente. También puede revisar su filtro de combustible. Otro problema puede ser una bomba de combustible débil. Espero que esto ayude. Gracias por ver. Mis mejores deseos y bendiciones. Keith Noneya PS si encuentra problema, háganmelo saber. Otro truco. Desconecte el enchufe ICP. A ver si funciona mejor. Si es mejor cambiar el ICP. Hi Hugo. I am not a diesel mechanic. But try the throttle position sensor on the accelerator. It has a resistor that breaks. It behaves intermittent. You may also check your fuel filter. Another problem may be a weak fuel pump. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching. My Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya PS if you find problem let me know. Another trick. Disconnect ICP plug. See if it runs better. If it is better change the ICP.

There isn't a "HD" F250, it's a 3/4 ton truck LOL.

@@PatrickBaptist there is to a heavy duty 250.......

@@phillip1489 A 250 is just a 3/4 ton pickup truck, nothing heavy duty about it. School buses are just medium duty, a 250's GVRW is half of what a full sized bus is. Yeah it's heavy duty compared to a ranger maybe, but it's not a heavy duty. Semis are heavy duty, not 4 wheeled pickups.lol.

@@PatrickBaptist I stand corrected lol I ment to say super duty and im sure that's what the guy meant as well or he was thinking Chevy

The ICP is not for the engine oil pressure it's for the Injector Oil Pressure. The engine uses this sensor to help regulate the injector oil pressure to the Injectors. The ICP sensor tells the computer if the pressure is what it commanded to go to the injectors. If the ICP sensor is bad the truck can run rough, get poor mileage and act kinda weird at times. If your engine oil pressure gauge goes down changing the ICP sensor won't fix the engine oil pressure gauge or indication. Check the actual engine oil pressure sensor or oil pressure gauge or the wiring to them. Hope this helps point you in the right direction. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Keith Noneya ok i i will and thank you again

No problem, feel free to ask questions as needed, we all had to start somewhere. I would've answered yesterday but I had a deadline for my sons college CNC project and every minute counted. By the way nice Corvette, I checked out your channel. I do that sometimes because I get curious about who watches. Nice guitar playing too and funny dog. Well I gotta get to bed, 4am comes early. Thanks for watching. Keith Noneya

Keith Noneya no problem man thanks

Keith Noneya hello sir its me again. I just wanna say thank you for your help the truck its running and the gauge working as it should. The problem was the oil pressure unit. Thank you again

Ouch. Tap it to the next size up and put an adapter on it. Make sure and get all the metal bits out so they don't end up in the injectors. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thank you

@@frarileyfranklin8693 Most welcome Franklin, anytime! Keith Noneya

Google Translate utilizado; El 7.3L tiene un ICP como se muestra en el video y un CPS en la parte inferior del motor por Harmonic Balancer. Gracias por ver. Déjame saber si necesitas algo más. Mis mejores deseos y bendiciones. Keith Noneya Google Translate used; The 7.3L has one ICP as shown in the video & and one CPS on the bottom of the motor by the Harmonic Balancer. Thanks for watching. Let me know if you need anything else. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya

Some times but not all the time. To find out if that's the cause of that just disconnect it. The PCM will detect it's not there and set a default code. You will loose a few MPG but the truck will at least run if the ICP was the cause. If the truck doesn't start there are a TON of things that can cause it. Here's my suggestions on this. Kieth Noneya’s 99-01 7.3L Quick Check for Crank No Start “When the truck doesn’t even TRY to start” Ok here we go, here's some things to check. NOTE: The fuse section of this is for the 99-01 only because the 02-03 CJB Central Junction Box (Inside fuse box) is different for those years. 1. Check the Tachometer moves when cranking. If it does move then it's most likely the CPS. To start the starter must crank at 200-500 rpms. Note if you have a 02-03 the Tach won’t read until it starts, so you’ll need an OBDII BlueTooth/WiFi adapter and software to check it. Then download an OBDII APP like TorqueLite on your phone. Open the APP and us it to check the RPM, if it shows RPM’s then CPS is fine. 2.Check the Engine Oil level on the dip stick, they don't work if it's low because the Injectors use High Oil Pressure to push the fuel into the cylinders when Activated by the PCM & IDM. 3. Is the Gas tank below 1/4 Tank. The Fuel Pick Up Tube in these tanks at 20 years tend to break off and when that happens you're not getting fuel. To check this open the Fuel Bowl Water Vent and turn the engine over, see if it shoots Diesel out forcefully when cranking. If not then either the Fuel Pick Up Tube is broke off, the Fuel Filters in the tank are clogged or the Fuel Pump is bad. If you open the vent and fuel comes out forcefully then it’s not any of those. 4. Fuel Filters if no Fuel comes out unscrew the top off the Fuel Bowl off and see if you have fuel in it. If so check the condition of the filter. 5. Check PCM Power fuses in two locations; NOTE: These Fuse locations apply to 99-01 SuperDuty’s! a. The Engine Bay Power Distributions Fuse Box: Check; 19 PCM Power, 24 IDM Relay & 27 IDM power in the engine bay Power Distribution Box by the Drivers fender and firewall. b. Central Junction Box under the steering wheel behind the kick panel with the four quick release screws; Check; 30 if blown, pull the Fuel Heater connector on the back bottom of the fuel bowl on the driver’s side, replace fuse 30 and try again. If it starts leave the fuel heater connector off and replace the Fuel Heater before you connect it again. 6. Check the Low Oil Pressure gauge, top left of the dash, when cranking after 10 seconds. If it has oil pressure then it's ok, if not the Low Pressure Oil Pump behind the harmonic Balancer may be worn out. Note: If it’s a 02-03 it won’t read until it starts. If you have an 02-03 you need to get the OBDII Adapter to monitor it. 7. Pull the ICP connector and see if it starts, if so connect it back up. If the problem comes back change it, or check the wiring on the connector. 8. It's common for the IPR Coil Nut to back off after an install if Blue Lock Tight wasn't used, check it again. Only snug it up or you can strip the sheet metal nut. If loose clean and Blue Lock Tight it on. 9. Use the Crank No Start Flow Chart for further checks. Hope this give you a few things to check. It’s not all encompassing but it’s the most common causes. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya on RU-vid.

@@keithnoneya thanks … I started the truck the other day . Let it idle for 20 minutes and it just turned off . I can not get to start back up

@@davidescobedo5570 Ok what were the results of test 1. for things to look at in the check list I sent. The Tach, Also I need to know if it's a 99-01 or a 02-03 7.3L, the way to test it is different.

Actually, maybe Jay. I know it's popular on RU-vid but it depends on the condition of the wires and connector itself. If it has broken insulation I definitely would agree with you, but if the wires are in good condition, no cracks or corrosion, just clean it out with some connector cleaner and treat it with dielectric connector grease. The reason is when you break into a wire loom or wire it presents the opportunity for water or humidity which leads to corrosion and may actually introduce intermittent problems that are hard to find or diagnose. If you do change a pigtail or repair a damaged wire, ensure that you use water proof or what is called environmental splices. I've been involved with wiring harness repairs professionally and the like for over 37 years. Thanks for the comment and watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Quality and manufacture. Frankly I would stick with the cheapest one I could find. I buy several and put a few spares behind the backseat. The only time I would even consider buying a Ford OEM is if I had a business or my life depended on it. Other than that, it takes 10 minutes to change it if that. Thanks for watching. I hope the video helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hey Giovanny sounds like you've definitely isolated bank ones wiring, solenoids and valve cover gaskets are good, or at least not causing the main problem. I,m not a diesel mechanic, but I have worked on tons of cars. Based on what you've said I would look at the ECM module or the common negative wire as to the problem. I work in electronic repair and the first thing to check when you have multiple problems is to find out what all the problems have in common. With automotive it's usually, power, ground or electronics. Check your ground wires on that side that the outside harness plugs into. The other thing to check is are the injectors getting the 110v signal from the IDM, use a 110V light bulb in a lamp socket to connect to one of the injector control lines, keep clear as it's 110v. If it lights or flashes when the engine turns over it's most likely not the ECM or IDM. It's most likely not getting enough high pressure to open/activate the injector. There are two High Pressure lines coming out of the High Pressure pump, one goes to each bank. Also check Diesel Forumns - Here's a list of possibilities: 1. Bad Ground wire connected to the wiring harness, (very likely). 2. Bad ECM, (not likely as all injectors aren't firing). 3. Low High Pressure, plugged or leaking. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes, I'm very interested it what it is. I'll do some digging to to see if I can't find a schematic for you. Also Try this page on Ford Truck Enthussiasts www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1086615-99-7-3-no-power-one-bank-dead.html Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

thanks I'll ck thoses out tomo see if I can find any more info on that.only code I get is p1316

@@tigeraudio Thank you for that bit of important information. I've amended my comment above to use a 110v light bulb. That'a one of the things I like about YT is you can learn from the community. Again thanks for the great comment. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

a few questions. Doesn't turn over or after turning over it doesn't start? That will determine what to look at next. There's a lot of things that can cause this, here's a few common ones. - If it turns over, most of the time it's the CPS. See my video on that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SqfzFlDiy7U.html - If that's not it. Pull the Connector off the ICP in this video and see if it starts. If it does, change the ICP. If it doesn't it could be the IPR, (Injector Pressure) Regulator. You can buy O-Ring kits to repair them. - Loose Valve Cover Wiring Harness will do that too. - The IDM (Injector Driver Module) it's the module that produces High Voltages to Power the Injectors that live under the valve covers. The IDM is between the rear of the drivers fender and the cab, just in front of the door. You have to pull the drivers inner fender skirt to get to it. If it's that you'll need a new one. You can look up some videos on how to change it and test it. There's even one on how to repair it, not for the faint of heart mind you if you're not familiar with electronic repairs. Again there's a lot of things that can cause it not to start. Let me know if you need any more help. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya after turning over doesn't start.

The IPR where is located?

@@emersonbarahona579 It's on the back of the HIPOP High Pressure Oil Pump. Check this video out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fzdRwjo4pbY.html It's on Trey Spooner's channel "Truck Stuff". He has some really good 7.3L Diesels Video's. Let me know if you need anything else I'll see if I can't help or point you in the right direction. Also Like I said a lot of things will casue your 7.3L not to start. Try this search for some good vids on that. ru-vid.com?search_query=f350+7.3l+won%27t+start Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya Many thanks. I appreciate 👍👍

Pulling the ICP sensor Pigtail sets the computer to around 500 psi and if the sensor is bad it should start assuming all else is good. You said that by jumping the truck it would start. I had a similar hard start issue, it would start but it was a very hard to start. Mine turned out to be a almost dead starter, one of the coils in the starter was bad. You can see the stator is burned up in my starter video. If you don't want to put out the cash for a new starter off eBay, around $165.00, take it apart and inspect if first. If the stator is bad it will look like mine in the video. As soon as I changed the starter it acted normal again. The starters in these are very robust but do go bad. If you have had a hard start in the past for awhile and just got worse over time, your starter may just have finally bit the dust. If after you start the truck and all seems fine I would look at the starter. Let me know how it turns out, or ask more questions. PS i'm not a diesel mechanic but having a 7.3L with 230,000 miles on it has shown me a few things. Most of what I learn is actually through YT like you are learning now. I love to watch 7.3L videos that teach me how to fix my truck if and when it breaks. When you go to a video always read the comments below you'll be surprised what you'll learn. Keep me informed please. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Keith Noneya thanks for the reply! It actually starts fine if I jump the starter direct to the trucks own battery. My problem lies somewhere between the key and the starter. It's not getting power. Something is telling the truck not to start- was thinking a bad sensor of some kind!

Hum, look in the book for the start relay and swap it with another one that has the same part number on it, and give it a try. If not you may have a bad ignition switch. Do you have the manual for it? If not i'd get one if you're going to keep the truck. That I think would be my first place not that you've told me you can jump it directly. Keith

Hey Nolan, just curious, did you get it fixed. What was the problem? Keith

Keith Noneya it seemed it may have been the neutral safety switch in a funny position? I trouble shot everything and never found a smoking gun. No issues since

Hi Robert, mine is a 2001 but I can't imagine that it would change that much. If it hasn't it should be on the top left of the Hi Pressure Oil reservoir. here's a link for a picture. www.justanswer.com/ford/1td48-oil-pressure-warning-switch-located-ford.html Always check your service manual to be sure. Let me know how it all goes. Thanks for the question and watching. Best wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks keith gonna check that area today hope can find it..drives me crazy I cant find it...I let ya know.thanks ..robert

That would be cool. I'm always interested in learning more about my truck to share with others. Take it easy and hope you fix it. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yeah they're special like that, Typo's andspelling NAZI's gotta love em, LOL.

It's an High Oil Pressure Sensor that tells the ECM the pressure applied to the Injectors that operate them. So don't confuse it with the Engine Oil Pressure Sensor. Hope that answers your question. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

They're all probably made in China now, I'd just pick one you think will best work, and might have a warrenty. I used the part number in the description. Let us know how it worked out. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Have you ever heard of anyone using the $16.60 one and having good success?

The least expensive one I have found so far online is at Sinister Diesel for $125.00...know of any other good parts suppliers? Thanks, take care!

I'm at work now when I get home I'll look up where I got mine. It's been working fine since I put it in. The $125.00 one is probably an original Ford, they cost a lot. I purchased mine off eBay and I think I paid like $24.00 dollars for it. I'll check it when I get and email you tonight some time. Say in about 2 hours. Until then. BWnB. Keith

Sorry I took an extra 2 hours. The wife wanted to go out to eat so we went. Well I found it in my eBay history and I paid $24.50 for it. I purchased it from DieselCare. Here's the ebay link: www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-7-3-7-3L-Powerstroke-Injection-Control-Pressure-ICP-Sensor-Pigtail-Kit-/261840194623?vxp=mtr&hash=item3cf6e44c3f When it comes in DO NOT change the pigtail unless yours has cracks in the wires. If the harness has oil in it that's ok, just use some connector cleaner on it first and blow it out with some canned air, the kind you buy to clean computers. Then put some dielectric grease in it and hood it up. If you do replace the connector use environmental splices to keep moisture out of the wires, or you could get corrosion in the wires and have intermittent ICP problems. I would also you can take it to an auto parts stores and have them put a code reader on it for free. It will help you find out if you have any other problems. Hope that helps. Let me know. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Hey Dan, can you send me the time index for that. Not that I'll take it out but I'd like a good laugh too! Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Lol bend away. If I know the answer I'll help. If you're not a member on FaceBook's 7.3L Powerstroke Nation group you should join. Lots of good knowledgeable folks on there. Here's a link; facebook.com/groups/1861700010593406/ I"m on the group daily except when I'm traveling or just to busy to be on it. Keith

thank you!! I'm putting a2002 motor(low mileage) in my 2000 and have had it with mechanics who can't get anywhere. i put the chewed up harness back together long enough for one week of work before it died. so now it's this different motor and new set of injectors, but still no communication with obdII, no tach when turning the key, and only runs on gas rag

@@bedandbeat You should be able to run the 02 in the 00, as long as you're using the 00 PCM and IDM with the 00 Wiring Harness. You can buy NEW engine wiring harnesses at RiffRaff www.riffraffdiesel.com/search.php?search_query=engine%20wiring%20harness&section=product Probably the only issue you may have is the Glow Plug module, some from I think CA use the Module instead of the Glow Plug Relay.

Yes both batteries are wired together. You must isolate the Alternator Positive post OR remove both positive battery cables or both negative battery cables. To be absolutely safe disconnect both Pos & Neg on BOTH batteries. I saw what you were talking about at time index 00:50 However I mention that you have to disconnect BOTH batteries at time index 1:18 if you're not using the tape method. I prefer just to cover the Alternator Positive Post with tape, it's easier that way. Just use enough tape to ensure that if you rub a wrench across it, that it won't go through the tape and cause a short. There's always more than one way to do the job, but as a mechanic you have to do the job the way you feel is the safest and most effective. After working on vehicles for over 30 years I've found very few mechanics do the job exactly the same way and know all the tricks. Thanks for watching. I hope the video and reply was helpful. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Gracias Martin. Mis mejores deseos y bendiciones. Keith Noneya Thank you Martin. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya

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