If you've lost the key, yeah you''ll need a locksmith to get to this point of removal to install that new cylinder (or drill it out). It's for theft prevention when the vehicle was new, so GM made it hard by design.
@@Master_Yoda1990 You might check out the comment thread below from Jeff Burkholder at 6 months ago. Sometimes you can follow what he and I discussed there to dislodge the key enough to extract the damaged lock cylinder.
Thank you for the video. I am a 73 y/o 'lady' who today, thanks to your posting was able to replace a 'broken' lock cylinder on my 1998 Chevy Blazer LT. All went exactly as you detailed on removing covers and old lock cylinder. I put in the new one, but found it would only go in about two thirds of the way! Oh boy. I googled the issue and checked youtube to no avail. I did notice that the 'pocket' inside wasn't lining up with the new cylinder. I took a small tool and found I could turn the 'pocket'. After two small turns, I tried again inserting the cylinder. It fit perfectly and functioned as it should. Hooked the battery up and started my car. Fantastic. Again, thank you for sharing.
That's what an instructional video should look like. Key points clearly stated and shown, and THANK YOU for not rambling about some personal story that has ZERO to do with the subject matter.
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado C1500 and I followed these steps and was able to switch out my ignition today. Thank you for the video, very helpful. Took me a lot longer than the video time, but I didn't have any problems.
Thank You so much for this video! ❤ I have 1996 GMC Yukon. My 70 year old husband was able to R & R the ignition key cylinder easily per your instructions! All without swearing or cussing! 😂
Truck was stolen this morning, and recovered a few hours later abandoned. They damaged the ignition cylinder and so it has to be started with a screw driver. This video makes it easy! Thanks! The crooks did most of the work for me too and already took off the plastic covers.. lol!
My 96 was broken into last night and the steering is still locked but it's moving a little more freely do you know if thats only because the ignition is ruined or could it be the actual steering column
Thank you for your detailed video, I watched another video and couldn’t get it done cuz I was having same issue of not getting the punch on the release and was cussing up a storm when my truck left me strand in Palm Springs. You are the Man! I can’t express my thanks enough that you took the time to drop knowledge on us!
Thanks for the video! It’s people like you that save the average joe some money by giving them the steps they need to do the repair themselves instead of a stealership or overpriced repair shop. Thanks again.
I amsoooooo grateful for your video, my car is in need of a lot of repair; but for now I have to be able to just start it, and I can’t because of the ignition lock is stuck ! I’ll watch your instruction some more and try to figure out how to manipulate the key, cuz at this point, I can’t do that part of the process
I just replace my ignition switch wiring harness. Before I put my top cover on my steering column I took some accurate measurements and drilled a little hole that I could get a ice pick through that was right in line with the ignition switch release hole. So if I ever have to take my key Tumbler out all I have to do is put ice pick through that little hole turn my key to the run position press to release turn my key back and remove the whole Tumbler. It works out great. There is a Nother video out there that tells how to measure off the emergency flasher switch to locate where to drill the hole that aligns with the Tumbler whole
Thank You Very Much!! it was that tiny hole on TOP, this was on a 1999 S-10, everything else said the hole was on the bottom, note, don't touch or move anything, just push new cylinder in with key, and Done!
Thanks for the video! My book says to remove the steering wheel, nice to see I don't have to do that. I don't own a puller so that will save me both time and money. :)
Thank you for sharing! I was in the process of removing the air bag and steering wheel until I saw your video! Much easier way than I was advised! Already swapped out!
@@mra1336 Should be no key reprogramming needed when just replacing the lock cylinder with these old body style trucks from the 90s as shown in the vid. All the lock cylinder on these trucks contributes to the Passlock theft system is a rotating magnet for when the key turns it.
So long story short car was broken in to put the new cylinder in so it has complete new keys old key jus goes in wont turn new key that came wit cylinder turns car on for 2 secs then dies
Been having codes for torque silanoid and I changed it codes are still throwing so I had the transmission shop run diagnostics. He said it was sealed up tight and it wasn't internal but he showed me one of the common symptoms is the ignition switch. Never heard anything like that. Anyone here hear of it? Appreciate your video I got hung up with the top shroud and I like your idea to use that piece as a washer after popping it out. 😉
if the truck does not have a tilt, you can relax the two nuts that hold the column to the dash. This will give you room to pry the top piece of the column cover out
just happened to me this morning someone tried to steal my truck. broke in must of got interrupted or something because they just damaged the cylinder.
Well the hardest part was getting my key to the start position seeing how I was replacing my ignition cylinder because it wouldn’t go to the start position
I'm in the same position how did you get yours to finally turn to the start position? Mine is jammed and will only turn a few millimeters each direction and the steering wheel is locked as well
Pry off the plastic piece that is exposed on the lock cylinder where you insert the key, once that piece comes off stick a small Allen wrench or screwdriver etc. underneath the locking bar at the bottom of the cylinder and lift up on the locking bar while turning key and it will move into position
Yes, I have done that but for some odd reason, the new switch is engaging the security system which I do not have a keyless entry or anything about nature what to do
I removed the Old lock cylinder because I was unable to remove the key , the key would turn forward and turn on the truck but when you turn it off it does not release the key. I purchased a new lock cylinder w new keys and same issue
Presuming here you can crank, drive, and shut off the engine. What about the accessory position? Just a guess, but I would be looking first to see if I have some misalignment or interference with the ignition switch preventing getting fully into the off position which could prevent key removal. Considering you replaced the cylinder already it's something else.
Video was great. help me find that release but I would not recommend putting grease on it dry lubricant like graphite. Grease will just pick up dirt and pocket-lint and will cause a malfunction
DrShock, ever had a "Security" light issue? Re-watching this one... My '99 Suburban thinks I'm trying to steal it! Security light stays on, not the flashing security issue you can fix by relearning the key. Truck starts and immediately dies. Got a reman Passlock module that was supposed to fix it but...here I am. Gladly use the tip jag again if you have any advise.
@@DrShock TY for the reply. No codes... Just found that someone had done the diode install bypass trick in the past. So in theory, the new passlock module I put in is being bypassed; correct? I'm really perplexed on what to try next.
With no codes, and these symptoms, it's most likely a wiring harness problem. You'll need a factory service manual schematic, but what you'll want to do is go thru the checklist in the service manual checking for good fuses and proper voltages at each pin to the passlock/EVO module. Next there will be resistance checks across various pins of the harness. As I mentioned earlier this kind of fault can also happen when the VCM cannot communicate with the passlock/EVO module. You'll need to check the harness between both for any problems with the serial data line. While the ignition cylinder has a role to play, it's very unlikely to be causing what you're seeing unless it's the incorrect part or extremely shoddy asian import part (either way missing the integral magnet required for passlock to function).
@@DrShock Holy Moly... I started looking at the wiring harness and found where someone has done the "Diode" hack... Now what? Should I suspect that diode went bad/burned out? I'm going to try to reconfigure the bypass and see back in factory condition the reman Passlock works, I can always replace the diode hack if that doesn't work. Thanks for the reply. My last attempt before I call the Calvary and have it towed to a qualified shop... I don't know how much of this I can take.
Most digital multi-meters today have a diode test setting, you could check to see if it has failed. But if i were me I would remove this sort of modification and return the vehicle to the stock design. Someone may have done this to cover up a different security lamp or code problem, rather than properly diagnosing it at some point in the vehicles earlier life.
My lock cylinder won’t come out all the way. It’s jammed in the start position and I’m trying to replace it. I already have the new part I just can’t get the old cylinder out
There's been some earlier commenters with this same problem. Some of them had luck with the _lube & wiggle_ approach, as the cylinder could be stuck due to the tumbler retainer coming loose inside the bore where the cylinder assembly is inserted. Something lock safe like teflon lock spray, or silicone spray ideally.
So our truck takes forever to get it to turn. We thought it was because we lost the original key so we had to use the spare key now, do you think my key is the problem or the ignition? How much does the ignition cost and are they universal or do I need a very specific one? Thanks in advance
The Ignition cylinders are vehicle specific, I include the GM numbers for the trucks this particular video covers in the description above. As far as having different keys behave differently I've certainly seen where an original key works smoothly and a replacement doesn't, that behavior is all on the key. But if you have two keys that both are hard to turn, then there I would more suspect the cylinder itself as the problem.
Thanks. The key is needed due to the anti-theft design. If you've lost the key, you really should call a locksmith. They will have the unique tools to remove the cylinder without the key.
Hi I am in the situation where the key will not turn enough for me to get the punch to hit the pin for it to come out like you said but how do I get it out at that point? Does anyone have suggestions
The lock mechanism can get jammed if there's an obstruction from broken metal (like the retaining pin for the lock mechanism). You have to lube it up really well, with a lock specific lubricant, and and try to rock it back and forth to see if you can get it to free up enough to move the release pin into position. It can take some significant time and patience to work one out with that kind of problem. If you don't have the time, I would just suggest going straight to the mobile locksmith option.
My cylinder was totally locked I had key but couldn't make it turn no matter what I tried lube shaking vibration nothing until I straighten a safety pin and used it to push in that locking thing we're the springs were broken
justin brown Yes watch at minute 5 it shows the tab that should drop when the key is in . If you use a safety pin that's straighten out you can push up on that tab then push in the collar it turned when I did it just had to try it a couple of times to get it right
The connection on these old body style (OBS) trucks ignition cylinder with the security (aka Passlock) system is the magnet built into them. When you turn the key the Passlock security module is looking to see that magnetic signal input to confirm the vehicle ignition switch is not being physically bypassed. As long as you have a genuine GM cylinder, or a top tier OEM aftermarket one, that magnet will be there. But it does need to rotate to function correctly.
The plastic cowling and lock cylinder part numbers are different yes because there's no automatic transmission shift lever or linkage, but once the cowling is removed the lock cylinder release mechanism is the same in terms of depressing the release thru the access hole on top of the steering housing as shown.
Possibly. For this year series of GM trucks, the lock cylinder just has a magnet related to the Passlock function. The magnet works with the sensor mounted in the steering column housing itself by being detected when you actually turn the cylinder with a key. That sensor then works with the passlock module and PCM to decide whether or not to throw the security tamper mode and block fuel to the engine. Any of these components could be involved in a passlock problem. So while the lock cylinder could be involved in a passlock problem, it's not always the reason for the security light to come on. Checking for codes with a scan tool may help narrow down which part is at fault.
Well this video is about removing the ignition lock cylinder, where the key is inserted. The lock cylinder on these older model trucks do not have any electrical connections that could possibly have anything to do with such a symptom. More likely the ignition switch or even the starter motor, for that 40A fuse going. You would have to trace out the wiring and isolate which component is at fault.
Thanks for the reply. Great video, from this video is how I found out about the plate which was the problem with my steering column. Too late though, I was already at the scrap yard looking for a steering column. I still have the old steering column and the ignition tumbler, I'll try what you said.
This usually would mean the switch is not in the off position fully. If its even a slight bit towards run the release won't be lined up with the access hole. The switch housing could just be very worn with excessive play. I would suggest a small drop or two of light oil (e.g., 3-in-1) and wiggling and flexing slightly between acc/off/run until you can feel the release with the pick. Then you'll know where it is off and work to adjust as needed.
The range of years for these old body style trucks reflects an era before the scan tool programming of modules. So no, no scan tool is required to change out just the lock cylinder in an OBS truck. _But_ some OBS trucks _might_ throw a security lamp on the dash, particularly with non-GM parts. If so, try the simple key relearn sequence below that I also have in the video description: 1) Turn key to the on position (lamp test) only. 2) Then turn further to try to start the engine, then release the key back to the _on_ position. 3) Watch for the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit. This happens because the EVO/Passlock module and VCM didn't recognize the new lock cylinder/key combination so the VCM shuts off the fuel flow to the engine as an anti-theft action. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off. 4) Immediately then turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. No more, no less! 5) Again try to start the engine, and then again turn the key to the _on_ position. 6) Watch the “security” lamp on the dash to be lit again. After 10 minutes the “security” lamp will again will turn off. 7) Again turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. Again no more, no less! 8) Again try to start the engine for the third time, and then again turn the key back to the _on_ position. 9) Once again watch the “security” lamp on the dash (third time). After yet another 10 minutes the “security” lamp will turn off. 10) Now again turn the key to the _off_ position, and wait another 10 seconds. Again no more, no less! 11) The truck has now learned the new key/lock cylinder hardware that you swapped in. When you now try to crank then engine the fuel should flow and it will start (some might reset after just the first 10 minute dance) - presuming you followed these steps exactly. ;-)
What is the point of moving the key to the start position before inserting the punch if I can't turn the key at all to begin with. That is the entire reason for replacing the ignition cylinder. The key will only turn backwards to the acc switch but will not move forward at all.
You'll have to get it turning or you cannot remove it. It's a theft deterrent design. Sounds like an obstruction is blocking the turning, or the lock cylinder is coming apart internally causing interference with turning it. You might get lucky with some dry lock specific lubricant and doing the _jiggle_ _wiggle_ dance with the key.
@@DrShock Can the pin be depressed and the cylinder removed if the key is turned backwards to the acc position or does it have to be moved forward to the start position? Also one video showed that pounding a screw driver into the key hole thereby destroying the internal locking mechanism will allow one to advance the lock cylinder forward if all else fails. What would you do, that or use a drill? BTW, thanks a lot for the quick reply, it's much appreciated. 👍
No, it has to be turned in the crank position to expose the cylinder release pin. If you do not have experience doing it, I would advise against drilling it out. You can easily damage the steering column housing by going too far. If you can't wiggle/jiggle it free I'd honestly recommend having a locksmith come out. They will have the tools, and experience, to remove the cylinder for you without damaging anything else by accident.
Definitely a Cheyenne as I special ordered it from the factory. I could only get it upgraded to the cloth/vinyl interior and bench seats at the time. Silverados could go leather, and with the center console and bucket seats option similar to LT on the Suburban and Tahoe.
There was no programming of the ignition lock cylinder back in 1995 thru 2000, which is the scope of what this video is covering. Bu you may have to perform a key relearn sequence, depending on the model year and the options on the truck. Some information on this procedure is in the video description.
Hard to say over a comment forum, but I would look at the ignition switch first to insure the ignition cylinder position is being correctly reflected. You could test the switch by following the lower column disassembly in this video, then removing the plastic ignition switch cover so you can verify the correct voltage/wire in each key position.
If stripped on the head of the bolt, then you might have to switch to long nose vice grips to get it out. And of course then replace it. If stripped into the steering column, using long nose pliers to apply downward force to the ratchet wrench is what I would try.
I the install new cylinder in my truck I don't work key turns good like new, start for few seconds and turn off ,and a put back the old cylinder and run good.
Can someone explain what the wires are for above where u put ur key?... are they part of the security system at all?... I'm having trouble with mine because the person before me that I bought the truck off of had all this is a mess and it was all tapped in place with electrical tape so after removing the tap my truck won't start and I noticed those wires either weren't on my truck or they were removed and if that has anything to do with the security system in anyway I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it
The wiring layout in the column area _may_ vary across models years, or across automatic to manual trucks. Best advice would be to consult a service manual for the particular year truck and verify you have all the wire colors and connections the schematics show for the steering column area. Another option is a stop at your local pull-a-part salvage yard, like an LKQ, and visually compare an exact same model year and transmission type truck. You might even just pull the intact wiring harness and use that instead of your previous owner damaged one.
The lock cylinder cannot be removed unless it can be turned to the removal position as shown in the video. Before resorting to the drill, or calling a locksmith, I would try some spray silicone lubricant around the cylinder (not where the key is inserted). Then I would try some jiggling with the key to attempt to get it dislodged where you can turn it. That's about all you can do.
Thank you. My truck has started keeping the key in. I stop move to park, set park brake and I can not move the key all the way back to the position where the key can then be removed. Would removing and replacing as you did be the answer? Is there a RU-vid on how to transfer the key components as you did so I don't have to have a new key? Any help would be appreciated.
It can be the lock cylinder as shown here, where either the tumbler spring retainer or the cylinder retainer have dislodged creating interference. It can also just be debris in the cylinder bore, particularly if the vehicle is operated in a dusty environment long term (e.g. dirt road). I would start first with just disassembly and inspection of the lock cylinder, and lubrication and reassemby if nothing is found wrong. You can transfer the tumblers to a new lock cylinder to keep the same key, if you end up having to that route. Or a lock smith can do this for a nominal fee if you bring in the old and new lock cylinders to their shop.
