1996 Honda Civic DX Hatchback Fuel Line Replacement (Feed, Return, Vent)

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This repair should work for all Civics from 1996-2000 (EK). I replaced the stock fuel feed, return, and vent lines with stainless steel mesh line (feed) and rubber fuel hose (return and vent).
Feed Line
www.ebay.com/itm/141815926179?...
Rubber Fuel Hose
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
*Update: I contacted the eBay seller about the leak I was having, he suggested replacing the crush washer with a new one, or even using a rubber o-ring to complete the seal, just another alternative option to the teflon tape if you run into the same issue.

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23 окт 2016

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Комментарии : 34

@terryhoffman2760 9 месяцев назад

This is 2023. I have to do this on a 97 honda dx that has 49000 miles on it . This is a great video . Thanks

@bigdaddy581000 6 месяцев назад

I have to do it on my 95.

@bigdaddy581000 6 месяцев назад

Do you by chance have a link to the lines?

@terryhoffman2760 8 месяцев назад

2023 still great information Great video.too.

@sovan781 7 лет назад

i just bought this line kit, my 99 si was dripping down fuel, i kept smelling fuel vapor for a while till one day i saw it constantly dripping, this was also the cause for the dreaded cel light for evap system pressure too low, cheap easy fix

@LostBeetle 6 лет назад

Thanks for the video, thumbs up. As for the brake lines, your video gave me the idea of where to re-route mine. Don't like them rubbing on the frame, it would probably take a very long time to rub a hole in them, but for good measure I will take zip ties and put some on the lines so they are neither rubbing on each other or the frame. Anywhere else where they are close to things I'll wrap some ties around them in those spots in case the vibrations make them bump on things. I used a 25' spool and rented a double flare tool. I am using three brass union fittings in total, two for the passengers side and one for the drivers side. To make the unions stop leaking I had to get them so tight that I thought I was going to strip them, that doesn't make me very confident, but I don't believe they have leaked a drop yet since, I was pumping them hard and holding the pedal for minutes at a time trying to make them drip, nothing came out. Took multiple attempts, had to keep remaking my flares, they would look perfect but leak anyway. As for the fuel lines? Well, after dealing with this nightmare which was the brake lines, I think I'll run a short piece of high pressure 5/16" rubber line on the high pressure, and 1/4" on the return. I just don't want to keep spending money on this car, I'm so sick of it and the amount of work I have done to it. I'll just do that short section in the back that's the most rotten. They haven't blown yet, but seeing how much worse yours are, I wonder how much longer they actually have, they look like they will go any minute, they look like they have been peeling in that spot for a while, but yours look way worse. Makes me feel like I might have more time than I thought I did, but that could be false confidence.

@ryanbromm7373 6 лет назад

Lost Beetle yeah unfortunately the northeastern winters do a number on our vehicles. I'm just glad mine lasted for 20+ years, can't ask for more than that I suppose. Glad the vid helped!

@connorcook3123 8 месяцев назад

i have this setup and got a leak on the feed line tank side, i ended up getting an adapter by K Motor that converts the 6AN metric threading to a push lock style adapter, that uses a little set screw to hold the hose in place over the barb, it’s supposed to be a lot more secure with a double o ring compression fitting, just be sure to tighten the set screw to where it’s just putting light pressure on the line, you don’t wanna puncture the line or break the screw clamp

@fecitim8807 4 года назад

just want to comment on the leaking connection to the underside of fuel filter. the washer that the pressure fuel line came with would serve its purpose as a seal against gas leak when u sand the underside of the fuel filter before connecting the new pressure fuel line. there would be corrosion build up over time to that area. if those are sanded out the washer will be flush flat when fuel line connector is tightened, thus creating a good seal. if leak still persist after then do away w/o the washer and use #10 rubber gasket instead. hope this helps.

@tobylillie6540 6 лет назад

Didnt even think about replacing with rubber lines thanks man, also i bought some 5/16 rubber line rated for 50 psi which is plenty and thats what i used for the pressure line instead of the expensive piece you bought

@tobylillie6540 6 лет назад

I had clean steel line at the end connections so i just cut there and slid the rubber line over with a hose clamp

@DJNaturaultone 6 лет назад

Good video dude.

@jasonbarrett3399 Год назад

Ryan...Can I get the part number or info on 'feed line' .....I cannot seem to find this part...Thanks

@bigdaddy581000 6 месяцев назад

Did you have any luck?

@JasonTylerRicci 3 года назад

Your fuel lines look just like mine, lol. Did my brake lines like you and even re routed them similar to you did. Next is the fuel lines. Thanks for sharing. Just wanted to see if others tackled this without dropping the tank.

@ryanbromm7373 3 года назад

Yup I think I used diagonal cutters or tin snips! Was a bit difficult I’ll admit but it worked

@JorgeGonzalez-wb2sx 3 месяца назад

Hey Ryan for the vent line did you run a rubber one all the way through? And what size did you use?

@response2u 7 лет назад

Thanks for the nice video. Two questions: 1. What type of line did you use to replace your brake lines with? Was it Nicopp? 2. It is really necessary to replace the vent line, too?

@ryanbromm7373 7 лет назад

To be honest I can't remember what brand the brake line was. I'm almost positive I bought it at Autozone, and it came as generic steel line that needed to be bent and was sold in sections of 30" or so. As for the vent line, no, unless there is visible rot I don't see a need to replace the vent line. That being said, the vent line is the easiest to do out of all of them, and if you have enough extra line I would just do it. I did it because that would have been the only line out of all the fuel and brake lines that I wouldn't have replaced so I just figured what the heck. My problem was a leak in the return line, but since they are all in close quarters under there it was only a matter of time for the others. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!

@response2u 7 лет назад

Ryan Bromm Aqil Izadysadr: Thanks Ryan for your quick response. I asked a couple of shops to give me a quote on fixing the brake and fuel lines, and the average was $1200!! That made me think of fixing them on my own. I wish you had a video for replacing the brake lines as well since you really did a good job of shooting this one.

@ryanbromm7373 7 лет назад

Aq No problem, as for the brake lines, I would keep searching for videos on RU-vid or other online tutorials, I can almost guarantee there are some out there. Good luck!

@Knarkfist 5 лет назад

Going to order and attempt this on my 2000 CRV. I am unable to find a kit specifically for the crv like the one in the link you provided. Do you think there will be enough slack in the line to make up for the extra distance that the crv model may have between the tank and filter? Any feedback is appreciated!

@ryanbromm7373 5 лет назад

Hey Eric, unfortunately I'm not too familiar with the CRV body, my best advice would be to try to find a scaled diagram of both models and use your best judgement. There was some slack, but not *that* much, so if it is a big difference I would be cautious. Good luck!

@brianschwartz2402 7 лет назад

Where does the vent line connect to the gas tank. One of my three is leaking, but I'm not sure which. I suspect it was the return, but not sure.

@ryanbromm7373 7 лет назад

Brian Schwartz it's hard for me to say exactly but you can trace it to the back. I would say there's a 95% chance the line leaking is either your return or feed. The vent line doesn't ever really have too much fuel in it from what I understand so if you are trying to diagnose between the return line and vent I can almost guarantee it's the return. Hope that helps

@AbrahamTennyson 7 лет назад

Hi! I have a 00 Civic 4 dr 5 spd manual. I just have some questions and I would really appreciate your reply. 1. I have the fuel dripping too and i have to buy the fuel lines. What if i just use a splicer and cut the part where it's leaking and replace it? Also, the gas tank has 1/4 fuel and is it safe to cut the feed and return line directly and replace it? Im a noob and I don't understand the fuel pressure and would be nice if you can explain it. 2. My manual gearbox is so tight that I have to use a lot of energy to shift all the gears and I have no clue how to fix it. The transmission oil is fine but I have doubts on the linkage. Thanks!

@ryanbromm7373 7 лет назад

Hi there, to address your first question, yes you can splice only the affected area on your fuel lines, there are other videos out there demonstrating how to do it. However, this type of repair is certainly less than ideal and I'd recommend just getting some new line (its really not very expensive, I spent maybe $150 total for all three lines, check out the links in the description.) As for your gearbox, I also have a 5 spd and my gearbox is incredibly loose (due to the linkage bushings being worn down) so it is suspicious that an older car would have a tight gearbox. I am certainly no master mechanic myself unfortunately, so the only thing I can suggest is do a visual inspection underneath of your linkage, maybe have a friend shift gears while you are under there and see where it is getting hung up. Sorry I can't be of more help on that one, but the internet is your friend and I wouldn't be surprised if someone else has come across a similar issue, just do a little research. Thanks for watching!

@albertwilson9410 5 лет назад

Would it be just as simple to leave the old lines under the car, in order to zip tie the new ones to them, to eliminate the slack?

@ryanbromm7373 5 лет назад

Hi Albert, you could probably do that, but you will have to remove the origin and end points of the line for sure, so at that point I think it would make most sense to take it all out. It isn't too hard to rig them up there!

@BigKWS 4 года назад

What is the purpose of the vent line and why does that need to be replaced?

@ryanbromm7373 4 года назад

From Google: “Remember, as fuel is added to your tank, air in the tank is displaced and has to go somewhere. Vent lines and vent valves allow air to be released so pressure doesn’t build. Likewise, as fuel is drawn from the tank, the vent lines and valves allow air to return to the tank so a vacuum situation is avoided.” I replaced this line because it runs parallel with the other two lines, so why not replace it while I’m down there. Hope that helps.

@BigKWS 4 года назад

@@ryanbromm7373 Yes it does. It sounds to me like this line doesn't have any fuel in it, which means my leak is likely coming from the feed line or the return line. I just need to know so I know what to order. But I suppose it would make sense to replace all three of them since they are all very old.

@ryanbromm7373 4 года назад

BigKWS my thought exactly! Best to just replace all three, especially since the line used for the vent line doesn’t need to be expensive.

@orienwhite8630 5 лет назад

I have a 95 dx hatch. I juat changed the fuek pump but forgot to unhook the battery but i had tge main relay unplugged until i finished the job. But now the main relay does not click.