1997 - 2001 Honda Crv Engine Replacement with Auto Trans B20B4 B20Z2 

I've had so many of them through here I could almost do it with my eyes closed.

You the man! Thanks for the reply.

Thank you. It's just finding your passion, pursuing it, and re-investing into yourself!

Have fun! That's awesome

Heck yeah! Did you get it fixed up?

Saying that, know one is around when I do this with multiple motors, some belts have broken. But picking up a single motor is fine!

Nice! I've never tried to lift multiple with one belt but they are incredibly strong, super adjustable and not likely to damage anything on the engine.

Thank you

Generally speaking, they line up pretty easy. Just make sure the alignment dowels are in.

I wish I could help you

Thank you man! I've only had a lift for a couple years. Many many years of working on the ground to get to this point!

happy to see that you are getting to where you are making some $ to where it makes it easier to get things done....... Nice, I know it's been hard work, but it looks like it's paying off..

@@julicastello775 the RU-vid isn't really paying for much. That's just repair money paying for stuff like the lift.

Yessir! Definitely a worthwhile investment

Heck yeah brother 🤟

Unfortunately I've now blown up the transmission in my 1999 honda crv b20z

What actually happens with this generation of motor is poor valve seats. If the valves are not adjusted frequently enough [I suggest 30,000 miles] they seat themselves too deep in the valve seat and lose their clearance. The valve then stays partially open during combustion and in a short time you have a burnt valve and no compression on that cylinder. It looks like a chip because the edge of the valve is burnt out, but if the valve and the piston actually hit the piston will also be damaged and the valve will usually be bent not chipped.

@@Mudpuppyjunior I currently have 300.800 miles on my '98 CRV which I bought new in March of that year and in my case I've found checking/adjusting the valve clearance every 30K to be overkill. Over the years I've slowly experimented on how far I could stretch out the intervals and the last three times I've done it at the 50K mark and even at that mileage mark I've only had to make small adjustments to several of them.

nice!

Bonjour

Thank you!

sounds like you pretty much have everything covered!

You can rent a tool at the parts store to hold the crank pulley while you loosen the bolt.

Use the original trans 🤟

The JDM motor should have a spot to add it. I used the usdm ecu

That's crazy money.

You're welcome

Take off the oil pan and remove rod caps

@@hondaresource thank you very much!!

I generally remove the complete swap in order to do manual transmission replacement

It helps with clearance if you remove it

Are you referring to the bolt at the top of the bracket?

JDM b20 or b20b4

pretty much same process for awd and fwd. They are great reliable (for the most part), cheap to repair transportation.

You can disconnect directly from the ecu, but you will have to take all the connections off the trans in order to pull harness with engine.

Only if you don't bypass the crack sensor or swap in a usdm oil pump.

I have a k24a2 in mine

@@hondaresource that's insane, just saw you have a video on it. Will have to give it a watch! Cheers

Correct, the manual doesn't have a torque converter

Yes, if you have a manual. Not really if it's auto

Is the intermediate shaft seated all the way into the trans? All the books holes are in the same position on all the b series engines

Na not at all

Filter is internal on the transmission and isn't serviceable

👍 Thanks. That was kinda why I was expecting I would see something about it in the transmission rebuild video.

The 97-98 motor will go in the 99-01. Just have to swap the intake manifold, distributor and swap over the knock sensor. It'll run perfect.

I'm not sure 100% but I don't see why it wouldn't.

Thank you for the video helped out a lot. I will see what happens when I smog the vehicle

you can put the 97 engine in the 01, but I would recommend swapping the intake manifold and distributor.

Na, probably something like valve seals

Thanks man I'm going to see if my mechanic can check that out

Absolutely

No, the engine will not slide over far enough in the engine bay to clear the clutch. If the engine goes out on a manual, I just remove the entire swap.

@@hondaresource awesome thanks for the info 👍👍 much appreciated!

No, just swap the intake manifold and the distributor, everything will plug right in.

Man I have no idea.

I probably would if it was a personal vehicle. Often times customers balk at the price to do all that. They just want to be able to drive.

More of like a protector of the oil pan than anything.

That would be great, however I don't even know the last time I went to a junkyard.... I love the junkyard too.

@@hondaresource Do you go to car auctions a lot and do you have a dealer license?

@@DavidJames-ev9qo I've been working on my dealer license since earlier this year but unfortunately it hasn't been completed yet

Essentially.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aUHbpJj6MGo.html

Almost every single one I've gotten with a broken belt has been salvageable

I recommend valve lash adjustment

It's a 97-01 crv I think I'm gonna drop it from the bottom never done this before I'll see how it goes

It looks like indont have to remove the bpipe, t bracket

I would definitely go through the bottom. 10,12,14,17,19,36, some pliars and a couple screw drivers and you can pretty much get it

@@hondaresource 36?

@@DavidJames-ev9qo axle nut

Rock auto

You know a good brand

Maxpeedingrods sells mounts for 97-01 automatic cr-v use code YEET1 for 15% off

lol the red one got scrapped after we pulled the swap from it

Not too bad, just swap the intake manifold and distributor

Ok, thanks. Hoping to get it done this week sometime. Just wondering though, if I swap out the intake manifold does that mean I will have 20 less horse power and worse fuel mileage like the 1998 engine does?

@@AlphaBravo-hh7rp the Pistons had more to do with the power than the intake manifold

Hey, you mind if I direct message by email or something. Having transmission problems and it’s hard to find someone that knows a lot about the CRV here in Manitoba Canada.

What you talking about Willis? It's the same vehicle throughout

there are several variables (labor rate, parts cost, etc) at my shop I charge $375 labor.

Thanks

My Honda CRV 1999 has a 120,000 miles and it starts to smoke what do you think should I do to help the smoke to go away

@@hondaresource wheres your shop

@@danasydnor5366 I'm in West Blocton AL

Yes. boosted_92_eg_hatch