HOLY SHIT!!! I BOUGHT FUEL PUMPS, FUEL FILTER, Crank Shaft Timing Sensor, inertia switch, and payed for LABOR!! BUT YOU GOT MY TRUCK STARTED! GRACIAS VATO!
2000 Explorer, all these symptoms, tried a bunch of others before spending any money. Here I come across your video and what do ya know, one of these fuses was the problem. Thank you very much. 👍👍
Thank you so much! I was stuck at a gas station late at night in the cold. Thankfully there was a auto parts close by, and I was able to buy the fuse and replaced. Started up like a champ 🎉
Wow!!! I’m talking 2 years of pissing around with my explorer. New sensors, new fuel pump, new relays, hours upon hours of torture!!! My daughter and I shared this car. She had a set of keys and I had a set. She hardly used the car and when she did, she had problems, which I never did. It was the keys. Holy Hell. Thanks dude.
I just bought a cherry low miles 77,000 1999 f150 ex cab 2wd 4.6l. these trucks have so many codes and electrical issues. Now the speedometer is sticking at different mph, and then goes down like 5-10 miles an hour at a time. It runs fabulous and seems to drive fine, it's just seems that the gauges have issues? My theft light blinks also until you start the truck. I have manual door locks and no alarm system?
It happened to me twice before. I swapped two 20amp fuses under the hood and it worked. Next time my chip inside my key was needed cleaning as my key case was cracked. I cleaned it with a tooth brush and alcohol and it started.
I've got a early 2000s ranger. A shop rewired my trailer lights to tail lights. And now my anti theft is going off. Can't start it at all. Could it be there could've popped a fuse by doing that somehow?
My 2004 ford focus is doing the same. Wont start nor will the engine crank. The only thing thats different is that my antitheft light does not turn on. Could you give me some advice, please???
When the theft light blinks rapidly it means there's a (Code) problem with the PCM system.....so when he turned on the key, it blinked fast for about 45 secs....then it paused.....then it blinked once (for 1).....paused...then blinked 6 times (for 6)....That means a code 16........and then it started over....once...then 6....and so on. There are other codes like 15, 17, maybe a 14 but it's usually a 16...that's means it needs a new "PCM relay" (under $20..00) from the dealer or salvage. easy fix. find the relays in the fuse box(s). see manual. UPDATE!!!!....I wasn't my PCM relays after all.... Had my charging system checked a few months ago when my 1 year old battery was failing.....turned out that the alternator's diodes were no good! (along with its bearings) ...allowing voltage back into the CPU when turned off, causing it to do all kinds of weird stuff. Went to Ford and bought a remanufactured Alternator ($215.00) and NO MORE ISSUES!!!!!!
For anyone who just put in a new ignition switch (bar with prongs/not key cylinder) on a 02 Ford Ranger and all you get are dash lights and no crank and yer thinkin you messed up in the installation, STOP and before you start pulling fuses just (DUH) tap on the solenoid on top of yer starter! Mine cranked on immediately, I probably could have gotten more mileage out of the old switch but what concerns me more is the starter/solenoid failure as I replaced the starter a couple of years ago. I guess, what I'm saying is go with yer gut and keep it simple! Good luck! We learn as we go even without proper tools and training!
That fuse is Maxi-fuse #111. It powers up the ignition switch. The switch, when in Start or Run, sends power to the Restraints Control Module (airbag module), the clutch pedal position switch and DTR sensor (neutral safety switches), your PCM, radio, and your PATS transceiver (key reader), and to your instrument cluster that also acts as your PATS module. That maxi-fuse does a lot! And without it working, you're dead in the water. By the way, your problem was fuse related, and nothing but fixing this fuse would have solved your issue. But if your problem was a PATS issue (keys, key programming, transceiver module, PATS module/instrument cluster, or network communication issue), then I could have deleted PATS for you in the PCM and solved that permanently. Now that the transceiver module (key reader) has been discontinued by Ford, we see these come in all the time to have PATS deleted because there is NO factory fix available, and it's nearly impossible to find a good used transceiver.
@@thekeyman2372 Most of the 96-04 Fords have discontinued transceivers. Mainly the vehicles with EEC-V PCMs, including 96-04 Mustangs and 99-03 F150's. And finding good used ones is extremely difficult. It's cheaper to have me delete PATS than it is to diagnose the issue.
2003 F150, receiving code 11 after an attempted theft. I replaced the transponder antennae under ignition switch and it removed the code and the truck starts. Use exact number match of transponder.
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 4x4 7700 model. 5.4 triton v8 XL. This just started happening to me yesterday. At random times after I park somewhere and turn the truck off I go to open the door and realize I hear no dinging which means I have no power and the truck won’t start back up unless I mess with the driver side door lock. Sometimes I have to mess with it upwards of 20 minutes to get it out of theft mode. Not sure where to turn for a fix.
I have a question i have 1999 ford f150 4.6l triton and i changed the spark plugs and wire's and now it's spits and sputtered like it has bad gas its throwing codes po171 po141 po161 po303 po302 what should i do
I wish I would have seen this a few weeks ago when my 99 explorer wouldn't start for the same reason. None of the tricks ifound online worked. I finally pulled the relays (6 i think) put them back in and it started. Also, I used my code reader once and it did work but when I tried that last time it wouldn't recognize it and it said my battery was irregular. So I got a new battery and it still said the same thing. After I pulled the relays and started it, I tried hooking it up again and everything was fine.
1999 ford expedition, insert key, even b-4 when I open the door sounds like a flasher is flashing, insert key , try to start and nothing, no crank , no turnover, was told by previous owner that I had to depress the remote and flasher would stop , then engine would start. I have made a bypass with solenoid to start but I still hear the flasher. is there a fix for this?
Have you check the starter? Might not be electrical. Put a screw driver between the 2 pole on the solenoid with key forward and see if it will turn. There is also a small box underneath the steering column that activates the thief light. Remove the column plastic and check there. If it has an alarm, some alarms will keep vehicle from turning on. There will be some wires by the foot brake on top that you can connect by switching them around. Normally there is 4 wires with quick connects. Don’t forget to check all breakers and fuses. Hope you will resolve the issue.
Hey guys, if PATS has you tearing your hair out and it isn't something simple to fix, you can send me your PCM and for less than the cost of a locksmith, I can permanently delete PATS. Your Ford will start every time, even if you don't have any of the PATS components installed.
I have a 2000 5.4 2 valve 225,000 miles ....runs like a champ ...front end is squeaky as all hell and the ac compressor is bypassed .....and I can see your digital odometer dont light up either lmao....but by the grace of god it gets me and my family around...praise jesus!!
2003 F150, receiving code 11 after an attempted theft. I replaced the transponder antennae under ignition switch and it removed the code and the truck starts. Used exact number match of transponder.
I took my cluster out and changed the lights went to put it back in and this happened but no theft lights or nothing my gauges wouldn’t move but the truck would turn over but just not crank so I’m hoping I popped a fuse or relay because the truck was running great
@@brianishmael2290 yeah I’m so irritated I did the heater core and removed the dash earlier this year and changed out some more stuff put a big head unit radio in and a few week ago I changed the plugs and coils trucks been running great no problems. The odometer (Mileage) would go off and on so the other day I took the cluster out because I ordered some new LED lights as well changed them out and I touched up the solder for the ODO went to put it back in the truck and the damn lights didn’t make a change neither did the solder now I can’t see the mileage at all and I’ve lost my Right blinker Arrow for some reason and now the truck will turn over it just will not crank I checked the fuses under the hood and they’re good but under the dash some have lost power but the fuses are fine and so are the maxi fuses . Needless to say I regret messing with the cluster. Im gonna check my ignition connectors tomorrow I’m hoping 1 came loose
@@alexharper9786 mine was just cranking too and not starting but I remembered I messed with the brake safety switch on the pedal and checked it and it wasn't pushed all the way in, also my instrument lights don't work either. Mine didn't start thus until I gave someone a jump and up until then it ran like a new one
@@brianishmael2290 Wow smh that’s crazy and what do you mean brake safety switch? When I started to remove cluster I had to bring the shifter all the way down so I pushed in the E brake I never new about a switch that has me thinking now
If I counted right that was fuse 111 which goes to your ignition switch it was overloaded n separated if it was shorted out there would be a blck cloud inside the fuse
I have 2002 f 150 and my theft light is doing like yours but it will turn over but won't start I put a new fuel pump and new fuel filter new battery and crank sensor and cam sensor and new key switch with no chip and it doesn't have no fule module where the spare tire is I don't know need help
Jesus is coming soon but not today. As for the f150, mine was a hairline crack fuse in the engine compartment. Have you check your relays? Also check in the passenger side front corner by removing cover. There should be a fuel pump switch. Make sure it is push in
Watch til the end of it pops again pull the IGN 15 amp fuse box under the hood and try the solenoid on the firewall if it fires up you have a short to ground on your ignition system.
That's a code 24 first a 2 followed by a 4... then a really long pause if other codes exist, the light will blink giving you the next code the same way
Make sure to check all under the hood fuses with a test light. Might have some problems in the steering column. Check to see if keys is not to worn out or ignition key replacement. Check or replace the small box under the steering column. These are the less expensive things to do first. Also check your cluster on the back wire connection. Might not be making proper connection if your odometer is not reading. If you have an alarm system that can also effect your problem with age.
My 97 anti theft light also blinks when it's off but the truck does start. The problem is, it's draining my battery and killing it within 24 to 48 hrs unless I disconnected the battery. Any suggestions anyone?
@@sharondubon2547 I actually did find a solution to my battery draining. Turns out my key ignition I starting to go bad so if I don't turn the steering wheel till it locks, it eventually trickles a parasidic drain. I even checked my power door locks and power seat controls but they were fine.
@@whiteyfisk9769 yes, so far it seams it was the key ignition causing the drain. Still haven't ordered another after market from Amazon but I will soon.
I have a 2005 F150. I fixed a grounded brake wire to my lights and it kicked the anti theft on. I've pulled the #203 Relay and swapped it with my tow light relay #201. The anti theft light on the dash went away but still not starting
Relentless Remag sorry to hear that. I’m not sure what the problem can be other then what was my problem. Could have one of the relays that are bad even tho you swapped them and both run of the anti theft. Also check your fuse box to make sure that one of the fuses dont have a hair crack line. Sometimes you can not see it by looking from top of fuse. Pull them out and check. Also learn that under the steering column by removing the cover. There is a small black box that sits on the center of the steering cloumn. That’s your anti theft box. Try also disconnecting your positive pole from the battery and plug it back on in the morning. Best of luck. Hope this help.
