Hello I have a 2000 f150 5.4 4r100 transmission. I had a leak in the front of the bell house though it was front seal I replaced seal ,torque converter, and new fluid, and now it won't go forward when In drive or 1,2,gear,or over drive only rev works now idk what happened we done everything right and the truck work fine when parked only had leak from front Can anyone on here tell me w g at it might be doing to keep it from going forward. And what happens if I font use marcon v fluid would that keep from moving 🤔 if u can please help anyoneeee
It was good to see you break the solenoid pack connector, trying to remove the solenoid pack. I won't feel like a failure if I do so. Some of them may be very tough to remove, but I WILL do my best to drop the pack by rocking it side to side and pushing down on the connector simultaneously...
Hey bro my 2001 7.3 does this some times when i accelerate hard it shifts very fast the gears and of course the motor over forces do you think is that the problem?
I see that you have a pan with a drain plug shouldn't you use a filter with a longer pick up tube like the Motorcraft FT-114 or if you have a shallow pan with no drain plug it should be Motorcraft FT-113...
You put in 13 quarts without draining the converter. A Ford mechanic on here used 12 quarts after draining the converter. Makes me wonder where all that oil went. I never saw you check the level.
This is the solenoid/sensor that goes through the transmission and has a plug that goes in to it correct? Over time the seals on the sensor leak spilling fluid all over the place. That the same thing you're working on correct?
To hell with those solenoid packs. I would be installing a heavily upgraded C-6 with Gear Vendors overdrive, and stripping down that 4R100 down for parts and aluminum scrap.
Hi Mark, how did you loosen the electrical connector, I removed all the bolts from the solenoid pack but it will not come loose, there is not much room to loosen the electrical connector, how did you get it loose? Please advise, I cannot get the solenoid to come off.
So when I go into reverse sometimes it kills the engine. Do you think that is soilenoid pack or something else? Thank you so much for this video. You turned the daunting into doable.
had the same thing happened to my truck...all it was that the trans filter had come loose, once I took the cover off, it was hanging...popped it back, no issues anymore..im guessing that why they mechanics couldn't find anything wrong..
@@user-mq7jn8zk6c I decided to have them service it (fluid change and filter change, I guess) so if that was it it should be fixed. Thank you so much for telling me what you found and tried.
You can then say goodbye to your trans. The bolt torques are very critical to the transmission fluid flow. If you over torque you can cause shifting issues and damage the trans.
@@hestonross29 I'm so glad I bought a 1/4 drive torque wrench and set it to factory specs. My truck has been running like a top since my last post. Only issue I'm dealing with at the moment is a broken clock spring. My symptoms are: no horn, no cruise and airbag light on in the dash. The new one should be here in a few days😊👍
hello, my 99 f250 7.3 2wd with 4r100 has only 135k miles and yesterday the transmission broke, without previous failures, the symptoms are that the truck does not advance, the rpm goes up and it seems as if the clutches skid because it does not exceed 15 a 30mph. Can someone tell me if it could be an electrical problem? because it is rare that with so few miles this happens. thanks
Had one do this too. Clutches were fried. What I personally think happens is the exhaust back pressure sensor (on top front of block area) went bad. The line from the exhaust manifold was clogged completely. Pretty sure it put it into limp mode but never threw a code. That 3/8 inch stainless like off the exhaust gets clogged and my back understanding is it supplies a signal to send less line pressure so I think that is why the clutches slipped. Funny thing is the fluid wasn’t hardly tinged brown at all. Some slight metal but not s lot but the clutches were toast. Cost me 2700 about 7 yrs ago to rebuilt it 🤬
And it literally takes ten mins to clean that little line out or replace now and then with a new one. The second truck that line clogged and burned a whole clean through it so that one got replaced along with the sensor itself.
Hi Mark I have 2002 F-350 and my overdrive is flashing. How can you tell what size transmission the truck has? Do you have a shop or do you do any truck mechanic? I would like to bring you mine if possible
1. Things you need to get started: a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic ATF, as long as it is rated MERCON or MERCON V. Your Owner’s Guide says to not use MERCON V, but Ford changed that in 2006. b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler line. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying! The metal part of your cooler return line is probably 3/8th inch outside diameter (OD) with a ferule on the end of it, so if you can find 7/16th inch inside diameter (ID) tubing, that will probably work great. If you use ½” ID, it will be a loose fit over the ferule and will need a good hose clamp tightened good to prevent it from leaking. So just in case, place a big drain pan under the connection. And some folks have reported they were strong enough to force a 3/8th inch ID tube over the ferule. If you try that, dipping the end of the plastic tubing in very hot water for a few seconds will make the job easier. c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too. d. If your transmission has ever been worked on by a Ford dealer, you probably have a Magnefine in-line filter in the "rubber" part of the cooler return line, near the front axle. If so, you should replace that filter every time you change the ATF. You can get one from your Ford dealer, or for about $15 from Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form. Your cooler lines are probably 3/8th inch, so you want the 3/8th size Magnefine inline filter. 2. In cool or cold weather, be sure the transmission is up to operating temp before you begin. It’s not supposed to happen, but several members have reported ATF coming out the cooler bypass line instead of the cooler return line if they tried these procedures with a cold transmission. Also, in cool or cold weather, keep the new ATF in the house so it’s around room temperature of about 70º F. when you pour it in the transmission. 3. If your pan has a drain plug, drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. If it doesn't have a drain plug, skip to step #5. 4. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube. 5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. The following is a drawing of the 4R100 transmission, seen from the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The arrow at #2 shows the banjo connection where the cooler return line and the cooler bypass line connect to the rear of the transmission. The arrow at #4 shows where the “hot” line and the cooler bypass line comes out of the banjo connection on the front of the transmission. (The cooler bypass valve is near the banjo connection at the front of the transmission, in that bypass line that runs between arrows #4 and #2.) 6. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket. a. Run the engine at idle RPM until you have around 1.5 gallons in the drain bucket, then you should see a big air bubble in the clear tubing. Ignore tiny bubbles. As soon as you see a big air bubble, shut off the engine. Then double-check the amount of used ATF in the drain bucket. You should have around 1.5 gallons. If you have much less than 1.5 gallons, then you probably killed the engine too soon, so crank the engine and pump out some more old ATF. b. If you drained the pan in step 3 and poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in step 4, then while the engine is idling in step 6a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches. c. If you poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in an earlier step, then refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far). If you have not poured in any new ATF yet, then pour in 7 quarts of new ATF, for a total of 7 quarts so far. 7. Repeat steps 6a and 6c until you have poured in a total of 19 quarts of new ATF (7 + 6 + 6). 8. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission with 20 lb/ft torque. 9. Drive the truck several miles to get the transmission up to operating temperature. Then check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off. You should always check the ATF level when the transmission is up to operating temp - not when it’s cold. The cold marks on the dipstick are not very reliable. When first filling the transmission, use the cold zone on the dipstick to get close to the right amount of ATF in the transmission. But for topping off, do it with a hot transmission using the hot area of the dipstick. When you get done, you want the transmission full, but not overfull. 10. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid. 11. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person. 12. Then get back on TheDieselStop and tell us your "lessons learned" for those that follow you down the DIY road. Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options: Revise paragraph 3 above to read: 3. Drain the pan, remove the pan, replace the transmission filter, clean the inside of the pan and clean the reuseable gasket, install the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. Torque pan bolts to 11 lb/ft. If your pan doesn't have a drain plug, you remove and drain the pan at the same time. This might be a messy job, but most tranny pans on other vehicles don't have a drain plug, so you won't be doing something the pros don't do routinely. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable. The pans for the 4x2 and 4x4 drivetrains are slightly different, so the internal transmission filter is also slightly different. So be sure you buy the correct transmission filter for your drivetrain. I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter. Add the following to paragraph 3 above: If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque converter. If you do, then you can also drain the torque converter as part of step 3 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter. If your torque converter does include a drain plug, then to drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque converter, be sure to replace the drain plug, and torque it to 18 to 20 lb/ft before you continue. If you drain the torque converter, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler return line until the torque converter is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see big air bubbles in the drain line during your first iteration of going through in step 6a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 6b, then cut off the engine. Add the following to paragraph 5 above. It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they pump new ATF through the system. If you drained the torque converter, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the line pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the transmission, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the transmission. use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 6.
I did the flush you are referring to a few months prior to this. The fluid only had 1,000 miles on it and that is why I did not flush it again. Of course the solenoid would go right after I had it apart.
I think I'm having the same problem. My truck kicks out of gear sometimes and doesn't want to move and also does the hard shift and the flashing light. Does that sounds like it could be that solenoid?
I’m trying to figure out the same thing. 315k miles with no issues and I changed the trans fluid like 2 years ago. Idk why OD is flashing causing my trans to act up. Is it the speed sensor? Or the torque converter or the solenoid? Ideas?
First thing I would do is check the solenoid pack connector for damage. It sits behind a heat shield between the exhaust and the transmission case. It’s held on be two 8mm bolts that just need to be loosened and the shield slides out. Sometimes you can get away with cleaning the connector and plugging it back in, but more often than not the pan and filter have to come off and the solenoid pack itself possibly needs to be replaced.
@@tonecrazy88 I have heard that the connector into the solenoid was the problem with that, just the connector itself on the outside of the transmission.
No. The solenoids are press fitted into the fluid channel plate in the assembly. You won’t get them out without very specific tools or you risk ruining the fluid channel plate.
Hello I have 1990 F250 5.8L my problem started out when put into drive it would take a few minutes to engage then it would work fine so long as it would be running.after sitting 10 20 min it would do the same thing until it would take longer and longer to engage. Reverse works fine any ideas as to what may be wrong it is 4x4 btw
I have 2000 ford f150 5.4 4r100 transmission It g ad leak in front of bell housing I replaced seal and see converter had a small pin hole so I thought that was the leak now that it got all back together now truck won't go forward in drive only backwards in reverse. Idk what else to do it worked fine before I replaced areal and converter does anyone know what could be the deal idk much about transmission please 🙏 if some could help text m e back I hate to sale the truck or bug new transmission if I don't have to
Hey I’m having a problem with my 99 F250 7.3 when it’s up to temp and I go in reverse it dies or you have to Give it gas so it doesn’t die the transmission fluid is new and I thought it was the torque converter and I put a new one and still doing the same thing
My truck stop moving forward and reverse it did have the clumping and jerking and overheating big trans and not shifting to 3rd now it doesn't move should I change seloniod or whole transs ?
My 2001 7.3 goes into drive when i start it, i can drive it forward fine as long as i don't take it out of drive, once i put it in parking and go back to drive takes a while then sometimes it works again, my recerse is fine, Do you thinl this could be my problem?
My truck just had an issue it goes into 1 and shifts into second but it won’t shift outta second and when I’m in second it feels like the tranny is slipping like I rev up but it dosnt go until I lower my speed again. And I don’t have reverse until I bring the rpms up high like around 2100 rpms. Any idea on what this is ?
I replaced my injectors and drive my truck around 7.3 just fine no problem but 20 min after letting it idle the truck will only go into reverse drive gears act like neutral is this a bad solenoid or something bigger
I have a 99 7.3 aith 4r100 and it goes into drive and moves(very sluggish) and reverse will not spin the wheels unless lifed off the ground. Could this be a solenoid issue,cloged valve body, or trans just toast any input appreciated
I have the 2002 7.3 and after gotten a rebuild transmission the transmission temperature gage showing it running hot after about an hour on freeway. It would drop right back down if I stop for about 5 mins. What would you think the problem might be?
Thank you Saw your video am more confident to try to do this myself My overdrive light is blinking and getting code P0743 So thinking of changing solenoid pack. Where did you buy it from? Also gasket and filter ? If u have the prices would help Thank you so much in advance
I got this one: www.ebay.com/itm/173527341546. I got the gasket and filter from advance auto, they have a deep pan and a shallow pan. My understanding is the 4wd is the deep pan for the most part. Mine was the shallow pan 2wd. Just make sure you torque everything even without over tightening.
If you are looking for how to disconnect the soilenoid... this video gives you a good explanation of that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CqiKhKZjNgs.html
Any idea at what time he talks about it? As far as I can see he just points to it and describes it. No mention of how to actually disconnect the harness. I cannot even see it on my truck because of the heat shield so I need to know exactly how to disconnect this thing.
@@MarkCeleste4157 my converter doesn't lock in 3rd or 4th on my 2003 Excursion w/ 7.3. I am replacing the solenoid pack as well. wiring looked all good, fluid on the stick looks clean as well. check engine light reads code P0743 and that code only. kinda winging it at the moment because I need the truck running. If you could write back asap whether you think I'm wasting time or not would be wonderful. if you have no clue as well that's also fine. Please do let me know.
