the purpose of the diodes is to protect the computer from the inverse voltage produced from the collapsing magnetic field from the solenoid coil. when the solenoid is on, there is +12v on the coil creating an electromagnet, when the coil is turned off the field collapses and a reverse polarity voltage is induced to the line. the diode prevents the -12v from getting to the computer by passing the voltage to ground.
glad i found this channel, starting school for automotive in September and these videos make me excited to finally dive in to something I've always wanted to do
Marshall You keep knocking it outta the park. These videos are extremely informative, thanks for taking the time to make them. Was glad you showed us about replacing bushings, " Just lovin it !!! "
Marshall,you remind me of my first shop teacher back in 69. Very good 👍 in clearly explaining the use of the ohm meter in correlation to the pin and solenoid layout.
Thanks for replying Marshall. I have replaced the throttle position sensor as well as the speed senor. When the shifting becomes erratic the speedometer doesn’t behave in a bad way. I do have a Topdon code reader I just haven’t gotten around to checking the codes.when I check the codes I will give more feedback into what I find.
I forgot to mention when it up shifts really fast through all the gears very early your going to want to check for the computer reading 4x4 low when it does that. The shift sequence is speeded up because of the low gearing in 4x4 low only. I had another guy with the same problem on my channel and that was the cause just remembering back!
@@marshallsanders5672 Thanks again, I have watched that video and will check my solenoid pack at some point. This truck is my daily driver and my wife’s Land Rover is down so at the moment I’m working on it. When I get to my truck I will let you know what I find out. Your videos have been a great resource!
Hey man, hope youtr trans is all right, i got a 2003 ford f250 5.4 4X4 4r100 and you say you changed the speed sensors ? Is your truck a 4x4 because im wondering if both ( input/turbine and output) speed sensors are the same length (the magnetic plug in to the hole part), any info greatly appreciated.
Thank you for posting this video. I am getting a code 637 in my bronco which is temperature related to my e4od. I know that the Transmission has never been overheated because I do have a gauge for it, so this shows great way to test that actual internal temperature sensor
Marshall you think of everything bud , Brother I don’t care if it takes you two years to build my trans , I know how life can get in the way of our plans , glad you found your pup
@@marshallsanders5672 just to let you know , the solenoid pack in my trans was supposed to be oem new is what I was told transmissions bench charged me like 320 bucks
Most informative information involving the electric to mechanical relationships of these transmission values. I greatly appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work and content.
Thank you so much for the info! I just bought a clean single cab short bed 1994 f150 for 1900$, and the only issue it has is the trans randomly starts missbehaving while driving. After watching this video im excited to test the solenoids to see if theyre the root cause. Sometimes truck drives fantastic, other times feels like the truck wont coast, wont upshift nicely, and it feels like maybe my torque converter "thunks" randomly. Again thank you for the tech info, im excited to see what my Sol. Pack reads!
In my 94 E4OD (E350 RV) I have a Transtar solenoid pack. It has the 4 diodes where you showed them in your video. But the main plug has a plastic insert that makes the plug have a thick wall for the early plug..You can pull the insert out and then you can use it for the late transmissions.. Just testing it and everything has good ohm readings and click and open the ball as shown in the video.. The circuit board is different in design in comparison to the Ford.. I guess it is just a universal pack..It is model R 7707
Very interesting! I have never seen that particular solenoid pack ! It does appear to be a universal pack , the way I see it as long as the diodes are there that’s all that is important. In certain cases meaning late “diodes in the computer” I can’t see where having diodes in the solenoid pack also would hurt anything. Kinda double insurance I suppose. Good Comment thanks for pointing that out to anyone reading these posts.
@@marshallsanders5672 It is the same aluminum casting with Ford numbers on it..What is the big difference is the circuit board. Completely different where the solder joints are exposed..You need not use the pins to connect to the ohm meter..You just flip it over and the connections to each solenoid is right there..Easy to test that way.. Instead of the white plastic covering everything up, it is a dark blue circuit board and the soldier joints show on it..there is no covering over the circuit board..
Marshall, thank you for your info on these transmissions. I have a 1997 f250 that has the E4OD. Mine has an intermittent problem. After driving on the highway about 10 minutes if I’m driving under light acceleration the trans shifts out of overdrive and the light on the shift stalk starts to blink. If I stop and turn the truck off he problem goes away, if I push the overdrive button the trans shifts on down then I can press the button again and it shifts back into overdrive however having done this without turning the truck off it will not shift correctly after a stop. The trans wants to shift through all the gears almost at once or sometimes I will need to over rev the motor to get it to shift and then it shifts very hard. At any point I can still manually shift through the gears. If you could offer a direction, solenoid or maybe the torque converter, I don’t know, I would really appreciate it. Thank you!
Interesting,very good explanation of what it’s doing by the way! Beings the light is flashing on the stalk button there will definitely be a code/codes in the computer. Must scan it first. From your explanation it sounds like possibly torque converter clutch slip codes and possibly throttle position codes as well. Make sure when it upshifts quickly the vehicle speed sensor isn’t being erratic but a computer scan should get you going in the right direction. Erratic throttle position sensor is common on those trucks.
Me Busy Your Welcome, I buy 90% of all my parts at "Whatever it Takes" transmission parts, PA Cargo or Transtar in that order. Between these three you should be able to get everything you need
Great videos, Can you discuss how the solenoid pack and valve bodies affect torque converter type. Triple disk OEM converters vs single disk converters and what damage occurs if you do not have the right one.
Yes absolutely! I am planning a whole Torque converter video but can’t post them fast enough ! Quick answer on that is there is no damage that occurs either way Triple disc/single disc as long as the pump is set up right and knowing what clutch material was used for the clutch/clutches themselves. A triple disc will apply a lot harder than a single disc so less “BEEFING” up in the Hydraulic circuit is necessary. It’s all about how the apply of the clutch FEELS when it applies and what correction needs to happen to get it right !
I did a pressure check with a gage, I got just about the same pressures with the solenoid pack plugged in as it unplugged. I was sure the pressure will be higher with no electricity going to the solenoid pack. I was wrong, but I understand how the EPC works, it closed the exhaust hole depending on the load on the transmission. Higher load, higher pressure.
@@coperacingtrans Well, That's a bit of a loaded question, A traditional "pressure" check is putting a gauge on it and seeing the base pressure or idle pressure. Generally 70psi. or so at idle and slowly power braking it to max throttle and seeing the line pressure rise incrementally to stall pressure which in drive is around 170 psi. reverse 210 psi. or so. You can do a "pressure" check just having it connected and seeing idle pressure then disconnecting it and seeing MAX pressure. That is a pressure check but it just shows the extreme sides of both. In my experience with it disconnected it goes to max pressure, now if it doesn't go to max pressure that tells me either the EPC solenoid is stuck in low pressure (no fluid going to the Boost valve) OR The Boost valve in the pump is stuck in the Low Boost position which I have also seen before.
I can’t imagine a 1742 TCC stuck on code happened from changing an alternator but anything is possible. Just do the ohm check and click check on your PWM TCC solenoid and go from there
@@marshallsanders5672 Awesome thank you! Not a lot of info for this particular issue. I should also mention that the new alt did have an option to add a ground cable on its own body so I did so and ran it all the way to the frame. I tapped in and combined with a frame to body bolt. I will recheck, and or add more grounds as I think I've been having grounding issues this whole time with a lot of other devices and systems.
Oh yes for sure grounds will wreak havoc with computer controls. Also make sure your body ground is also going to the cab not just the core support or fenders. With older vehicles you never know how well all the body panels are grounding to each other ! And make absolutely sure all these “ADDED” grounds are properly finding there way back to “BATTERY” neg. terminal
Wow, this is literally the best video on RU-vid describing the functioning/testing of the solenoid pack. I'm still having code p1747 with the new pack I recently installed, so I suspect a wire short but can't trace it. Since you have the wiring diagrams, would you be able to share what's the path for a 2000 Expedition 5.4l with the 4r100 tranny? I've looked at a few videos but they didn't have the reference voltages and haven't been able to track the wiring diagram. Thanks for considering!
C P The diagram is very similar to the one I'm showing in the video 12v supply to EPC solenoid and going back to the computer for EPC control is WHT/YELLOW wire, If there is power at terminal 12 VIO/WHT then the fuse isn't blown and the short would be in the WHT/YEL wire. The control wire goes strait from the solenoid connector to computer. Should be easy to check that wire for a short. Disconnect the computer and Solenoid connectors and see if there is continuity to ground . If there is continuity to ground with harnesses disconnected then the WHT/YEL wire is shorted somewhere. Be sure to check out my 4R100 solenoid pack testing video as well it goes a little deeper into PWM Low ohm solenoid testing. You can access these diagrams yourself ALL-DATA.COM. You pay I believe $125 and you can get FULL access to your vehicle including those diagrams.
Thank you for the update! I pulled out the solenoid again, tested it and got weird resistance values (it stayed steady at 1.5 ) so I exchanged it and same thing happened. Testing across pins 11-12 like I saw you do. To test continuity I need to get longer leads. How do I disconnect the cable though? It seems so long and I don't know if there's anything else wired to it. Diagrams don't help with the physical wire bundle and I'm a little concerned about ripping a connector somewhere along the line. Any thoughts?
You seen a solenoid pack that works fine cold, ohms checks okay, but once trans warms up, trips the Shift A solenoid on a cheap scanner, but on my better one seems everything failed, solenoids and the torque convertor one too...
4R100. 99 7.3. Replaced pack last year as had burnt pin. The other day I got OD flashing light again. Ran test and got code p1747 which is a short. In your experience. Do you find common the short is in the pack, wiring or faulty pcm. Pigtail & wiring looks good but hard to tell. I hate to have to pull that pack out again. It not hard but someone before I bought the truck stripped out a few of the pan bolts and tough to get the pan to seal again. I just ordered a spare pigtail so I can run function test from under the truck without pulling pack out. Any other advice, suggestions, tests to run regarding pcm, wiring and pack would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and Happy New Year!
Dean your on the right track in your diagnosis. Getting that pigtail is good to ohm check the pack while still in the truck. What pin was burnt last year That code is EPC short so if it was that pin then could have damaged your ECM. Just ohm check the EPC, Isolate the harness from the computer and power and check that the EPC wires don't ohm to ground. From what I see its the White/Yellow wire in that harness for the EPC control wire you need to check for a short to ground. Also need to get some helicoils for your case panbolts they are pretty easy to put in.
@@marshallsanders5672 Yeah, I completely pulled the harness off the trans today. I pulled all the wire loom and tape off up to the frame rail, cleaned all the wires, retaped and loomed everything with the exception of the wires that go to the solenoid harness plug. I'm receiving the pigtail tomorrow so I'll be running the tests. I did run continuity from the main trans harness by the frame rail just before it bends toward the center of the truck by trans cross frame to the pigtail plug and all was well. I'm seriously hesitant on pulling the pcm harness. 24 yrs old and don't need other wires breaking and wreaking havoc anywhere else. I did find the red plastic pin retainer barely melted on the solenoid plug face looking at it. However, I did notice 2 of the wire pin connectors in there pushed back a little. Perhaps it was enough not making proper contact and arching cause the red retainer to melt a little and also causing a short. I'll tell you what, before I bought the truck 9 yrs ago, the guy wired up accesory bed lights xand other stuff. The wires were all over the place before but I cleaned it up and loomed it all but didn't go crazy. I literally just found 5 min ago some of the rest of the wiring and it's questionable if the 12v from that is grounding out somewhere. I found a few spots with the wire coating melted to other wires. I'm cutting that crap out tomorrow and disconnecting all the lights. The lights are nice and never use unless I'm roadside which is seldom. I'll just rip it all out and start fresh after I figure out the short. Thanks for the reply. I'm very versed in electrical and mechanics so it's just an unneeded pain. Especially bringing in the new year like this! Happy New Year BTW.
@@deanweingarth9586 Yep I totally understand the reluctance to pull the computer connector off ! only if it comes to it. Sounds like your on the case and doing everything I would do in that situation just have to keep going until you find the problem ! Good luck and let us all know what you find as this may help someone else out there as well.
So I’m an Er nurse and don’t want to be ripped off, I have the 99 f350 4wd and the trucks OD won’t engage. It’s shifts decently through all but it won’t kick into OD. Would the solenoid pack repair this?
Michael, If the transmission has 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear as normal then theoretically both shift solenoids in the solenoid pack are operating. In your case it appears the solenoid pack WON'T fix a no overdrive condition. Must scan the computer for codes, One thing you can do is disconnect the main connector to the solenoid pack. With the solenoid pack disconnected it should take off in 4th gear because 4th gear is both shift solenoids OFF. If it doesn't take off in 4th then there is something Internal to the transmission causing it to not have O/D. Hope this helps as I hate seeing people get ripped off as well.
Great video... Thanks for sharing. How can i dind out if my 1997 f 350 has PWM or not? Where can the diagrams you used be found? Im planning on changing this solenoid pack, and accumulator valves when doing a dilter change. Great informatio, i will be testing my old one for sure...
Being a 1997 it should be regular On/Off lock up not PWM. But the way to tell is the PWM lock-up solenoid will have a white snout instead of brown. You can get a fairly cheap kit 50 bucks or so just to modify the accumulator valvebody. Makes a world of difference above stock weak shifting setup! The diagrams are All-Data. I have it through work but a do-it-yourselfer can go to the website and get full access to 1specific vehicle for $125 “priceless” in my opinion. Also be sure to check out my follow up video to the solenoid pack video testing. It’s called 4R100 low ohm solenoid pack testing. That video shows the PWM solenoid and how to tell the difference in the two solenoid packs as well as testing the PWM solenoid it’s a little trickier than the On/Off lock-up solenoid. Thanks for the comment!
This is a book I acquired many years ago from www. Transonline.com. As far as I can tell they have since gone out of business. It’s a great reference book that tells MANY of the tips and tricks to get these things right and tight. Throughout my videos I mention all the tips and tricks this book mentions !
Had a question I have had a e40d transmission give me problems for some time now so my truck would drive fine for about 20 minutes or so then it's like it's not down shifting right unless you stop completely but this didn't start till it blew the ring around the electric plug on solenoid do you think the solenoids might be bad
Devin, It is very possible a shift solenoid is heating up and going bad. Not sure about the "Ring" blowing out that is kinda strange. I'm assuming you mean the one that seals it to the case
Good Afternoon I have a 1990 Ford E150 E4OD (Version 1 Selenoid Pack). Could you let me know how I can get the diagrams and schematics that you have in the video ? Thanks
The diagrams came from a company that has since gone out of business I believe. The schematics are AllData Professional subscription on that one. I do believe a do it yourselfer can pay a one time fee to get Full access to a specific vehicle for around 125.00.
I did a video “Who’s in Control” that does explain some of that. I wanted to also do an exact video of what your asking but ran out of time in this 10 video series I did. Hopefully I will do that one also at some point. Check out my Who’s in control video in the meantime it does explain a lot.
Hey Marshall, I really liked your video on testing solenoid on a e40d transmission I'm a proud owner of a 1994 Ford F-150 flare side step side. I was wondering where I could get a copy of those sheets with wiring diagram I've been busting my head over this transmission for 3 months now.. and I'm tired of asking for rides back and forth to work, can you please help me. Any info would help Thanks.
Marcos, They are AllData wiring diagrams, I believe you can purchase a single vehicle complete access for that vehicle for about $125 for the do it yourselfer. Well worth the aggravation of not having the proper information at your fingertips.
Marshall, what would cause the Automatic Transmission in my 1994 Ford F-150 pickup to go Neutral at 50-55 mph for no reason then Slam back into Gear in a couple seconds or Smoothly if you can get off the Throttle quick enough?😢
I have a 91 f350 7.3. Put it in drive and it feels like it is in 3rd gear. I manually shift it to 1st and it pulls fine and then 2nd and 3rd. Put it in reverse and it backs up fine. I checked the solenoid pack like you just explained and it worked fine. I checked for power at the connection and ground that was fine. Do I have a bad tcm or a bad mlps? The one thing that has me confused is I can't get the obd1 to connect and get any info off it. I looked over the diagram and it looks like the obd1 connector is fed directly from the transmission oil temp sender? Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!
Dozer, Not sure how you are trying to get into the computer ? Jumping the wires and reading the "Blinks" on the check engine light or with some sort of scan tool. Is the check engine light working KOEO ? is the O/D stalk light turning on and off ? It can be difficult to diagnose the earlier OBD 1 computer systems just have to work the problem. Yes that is the feed wire and you jump that one to the single wire separate pigtail at the Diagnostic connector under the hood. There are some videos out there on retrieving codes on early Ford vehicles via the check engine light ! Definitely keep trying to get any codes out of it first just to give you direction and if necessary go to the next step which is below. It may come down to manually tapping into the Two shift solenoid ground control wires and with toggle switches controlling the 4 gears of the transmission overriding the computer altogether. I talked about this in my "Who's In Control" video and it appears you watched it. Doing this step will assure you of an internal problem or external problem and where to focus your efforts.
@Marshall Sanders yep I'm going to tap into the wires this week and ground them out. Do i need to ground them both(turn on solenoid A and B) or just A to see if it goes into 1st gear? A and G on would be 2nd gear correct?
Hey Marshall, Great channel and I’m learning a lot about the 4R100 from your videos. I have a Couple questions of your opinion on the ATS 5 Star torque converter 1300-1500 stall speed and the John Woods Valve Body that I’m having installed while having the 7.3 diesel engine replaced and a few upgrades added while the cab is off. So far I’m over the $20k mark with all the parts and another $6k for the shop to install, That really hurt but I’ve replaced a ton of important parts. It’s for an 02’ F350 Lariat DRW, CC, LB, 4WD. I can’t find many ATS videos by consumers but I’m hoping they live up to their price tag and warranty. I’ve heard good things about the John Woods Valve Body for smoother shifting in heavy towing applications, but value your opinion on those 2 upgrades for the transmission. Not looking to see you write a book here in the comments cuz I know your time is valuable, just curious for your experience and opinion. Keep up the Awesome videos, I actually have watched quite a few of the long ones and have really gotten a much better idea of how they work. Y’all transmission guys are in your own Solar System as far as I can tell. Thanks Marshall, Keep up the great work!
Jason, Yeah you should be fine with the converter and the john woods valvebody. I have never used ATS but they seem a reputable company and the warranty is really good. That is a lot of money for a torque converter, I use PATC transmission parts for all my heavy duty high performance converters. They sell a comparable one for around $1,100 either way you should be good. As far as the valvebody goes are they just installing the Accumulator valvebody or are they doing a whole shift kit? Is it the stock transmission as of now? how many miles on the transmission? Thanks for the comment and viewership man! Us transmission guys started at ground Zero and it took many hard years of transmission problems to get a handle on them but through perseverance it all comes together.
@@marshallsanders5672 Thank You for responding, I’m not sure of the current mileage because the alternator surged and quit registering on the digital odometer. I sent the dash cluster to get repaired and the technician said the computer should still have a record of the current mileage. I’ll know when I get it back from the shop. I’m way too invested to Not Keep it Forever either way. To my knowledge I would assume it’s over 200k because it blew out at 165k and I was actually test driving it when that happened back in 2018. I still bought it but I only paid $9k instead of the $13.5k the guy was asking. Nice truck and it’s Definitely the Chassis I’m sticking with. The injectors went out so it’s been sitting for the past 17 months now. That being said, While I was driving and towing my RV (12-14k lbs) with it, I never noticed any particular problems with the transmission shifting or over heating. I put a mishimoto transmission cooler and a new oil cooler in it before I started towing with it. Being my first diesel, I was clueless to how critical maintenance is for these types of motors, Now I know how important that odometer is. I am prepared to have the transmission upgraded in the near future, The engine cost has far exceeded my expectations but I’m replacing as many components with New Motorcraft parts while the cab is off the frame. I’m basically having a Stage 2 towing rig built for long term use. I see good reviews about the 4R100 for what it’s rated to pull but also see a major difference in performance upgrades that I know would be beneficial investments. Having it overhauled and brought up to the standards for heavy towing is the very next move on my part, just want to get back to square one after these engine upgrades and installation cost. I’m expecting a $5k-$10k transmission bill with shipping and installation involved. I have learned the hard way, Diesel Trucks can be Financially Life Altering, but that’s the nature of the business. The work horse is very expensive so it’s should be working to pay for itself
@@FatBoy7.3Powerstroke That is awesome! Your doing it, sounds like a hell of a rig. Yep the 4R100 is a beast of a transmission when rebuilt PROPERLY but stock it has its limitations. My only concern is your putting that high dollar torque converter in and the TCC valve line-up wears out in those pumps all the time. I would just hate to see you put in the converter and burn the clutch in it up in 6 months or so. Its a gamble but i guess one your willing to take. There just putting in the Accumulator valvebody in i'm assuming? You are DEFINITELY going to want the Transgo "TUGGER" kit in the trans when you get a new one for towing. It is night and day what that kit does for towing above and beyond all other different shift kits out there in my opinion. I know builds like these get stupid expensive but this is where you just have to see it as spending 60-70k for a new "STOCK" truck as opposed to the route your going. I supervise a fleet of diesel trucks maintenance shop as of today and diesels are a joke these days on the maintenance schedules we adhere to, You have a pre DPF/SCR/DEF system and that in itself is "Priceless" in my opinion so you made the right decision keeping and fixing the older truck! Let us ALL know what your deciding on as there are people who read these posts and its all about sharing knowledge these days! Good Stuff!
You may have already covered this in one of your videos. I've only recently found your channel. I'm looking to add a transmission cooler with electric fans to my E4OD. Should the new cooler be plumbed in before or after it goes through the radiator? And, coming out of the transmission, which line is the forward and which line is the return? Very informative videos. Thank you!
The cooler goes after the radiator , so essentially it gets cooled down from the radiator and cooled even further by the cooler. The front line on the transmission goes to the radiator and the return line enters the transmission at the back of the trans ! Thanks for the comment
You mentioned how this pack is a brand new one. I would love if you shared a reputable source for these solenoid packs, because I just purchased a supposed refurbished part off Ebay that tested bad at the very first test!
Yep that’s a tough one ! eBay is EBay man! Whatever it takes Transmissions, Transtar, PA Cargo is who I use these days ! Not sure who you used on EBay but throw in a comment so others don’t get screwed !
I used remco-2012. They have good ratings and had other parts for sale too so I was surprised. The part came in a plastic bag because there was transmission fluid leaking from it, so that makes me wonder whether it was really refurbished.
I have viewed your video on the E4OD trans solenoid pack. It's off of my 97 F-250 5.4L and I have checked all my solenoids, and they are in specs range seating and functioning properly, but my temperature sensor is completely blown or open. No reading from it at all. Will this keep my transmission from going in to gear or function at all?
No that sensor or any solenoid in the pack being bad for that matter would not cause a no engagement problem. It has to be something internal if there is no engagement.
Is it a 4R100? They have a different PWM lock-up solenoid. I have a video on checking the 4R100 solenoid pack as well! If it is an E4OD the solenoid must click and activate when bench checking it!
Yes, They sell them online, Just look up what year your transmission is. 89-94 E4OD,95-98 E4OD, 98-UP 4R100 "Solenoid Block Connector" and it should pop up on google !
In your response to another viewer you suggested that the same 12v load test could be performed on a 4r100 with a PWM TCC solenoid. Everything else I have found on testing lower resistance solenoids, such as PWM solenoids, suggests that using 12 volts without reducing the amps could damage solenoid. I appreciate your instructional videos, but I'm afraid I may have fried my PWM solenoid after taking your advice.
We’ll that’s a debate in itself. Without getting to deep here it is ok to test the 4R100 PWM/TCC “lower resistance” solenoid and EPC/PWM “lowest resistance”solenoid using this method as they are not very low resistance solenoids meaning in the 1-2 ohm range variable solenoids. Since the 4R100 TCC/PWM sol. Measures 10-18 ohms it doesn’t draw a crazy amount of amperage to hurt it on a quick check like the one I’ve shown. It just puts it at 100%duty cycle (Full Lock-up) As well as the EPC/PWM sol. which measures 4-6 ohms. (Lower Resistance than the PWM/TCC) which you saw in the video I tested that way put it in the trans and was fine still working as it should today. So with that said you are correct about low resistance sol testing but everything I’ve ever been taught and implemented is “how low” is to low. In this case the resistance isn’t “too low” for testing this way. Whether you believe that or not is up to you just stating facts. I need to do a follow up video 4R100 sol pack just haven’t done it yet. Great Comment thank you ! Also in the case of very low resistance 1-2 ohm solenoids a person can take let’s say a 10ohm resistor put it in line and check them the same way.
Also after you checked it this way just re-ohm check it and see what the resistance is. If you did fry it it will read either 0-ohms/shorted or Infinite ohms/open in which case the windings may have been going bad in the first place ! Just a thought. Again thanks for the comment
That’s funny/ misleading good catch on that one ! There were a few misprints on these pages that I had to rewrite. I think I’m going to do a whole video on misinformation out there because there is a ton of it.
I have a 99 rv with a v10 and I think it’s the 4r100 it seems to be taking off in second gear sometimes. Some of the time it feels like it’s in second then drops to first on takeoff. Sometimes in first as it normally should. Could this part be the problem?
Could be but more likely if the transmission is still in good shape is a broken spring in the 1-2 shift valve. Common on later units such as yours or a “Sticky” 1-2 shift valve. Just “google”broken shift valve spring 4R100 ! Usually if there is a problem with a shift solenoid it will effect 2 gears of the 4 because it uses only two shift solenoids for 4 different forward gears
@@marshallsanders5672 it has only 32k miles on it. It was fine before it was parked for about 3 months. It started this after going about 5 miles away. Thanks for the information.
Marshall thank you for your videos! Ive watched every one reguarding the e4od multiple times and they are great! I finished rebuilding an e4od for my 1995 bronco and finally got it back together today and went on a test drive. I noticed immediately that i didnt have engine braking in 3rd with OD off and the shifts in drive were irregular. I also had one irregular shift going from 2 to drive under moderate/heavy acceleration. It hung in 2nd gear for a few seconds before i got off the throttle, and then it completed the 2-3 shift. These shift issues where present before the rebuild. I suspected the solenoid pack was the culprit beforehand. But it bench tested perfectly during the rebuild so i decided to reuse it. I did a pinout test before the rebuild aswell to see if i had a wiring fault, which i did not. What would you suggest i try doing next? Also 2nd gear was completely wiped out. Its been bugging me that i didnt find a "smoking gun" as to why it failed other than wear and tear. Any input you have would be appreciated, thanks!
Open up the ECM and check the capacitors and make sure they have not popped and discharged on the circuit board if you see this you'll need to replace the main ECM
Hey buddy just watched your video. Well I installed a used 4r100 guy swore up and down that it worked well I installed it and it doesn’t shift into 1st when I put it in OD fells like its trying to drive in 3rd or 4th but if I manually shift it the trans works great…. should I just replace the solenoid pack.
Tiredofthetranny! Classic name what was the reason you change it out? You need to scan it to see if the computer is Commanding first gear when you put in in drive position. It could be the solenoid pack but just pull it out and test it to be sure just like the video! I also have a follow up video on testing the 4R100 solenoid pack specifically on my channel. It walks you through testing the PWM lock-up solenoid which is not in this video. The main reason for me doing these videos is to help people diagnose the actual problem instead of just changing parts out. Let me know what you find
Ok well the ONLY reason I swapped the transmission is my son obviously didn’t torque the housing bolts down properly after we changed the front pump seal to stop a leak and the trans housing cracked! But when it cools off a little I will go check it! We are under a heat advisory so its been 120 heat index some days….. I bought a cheap 06 dodge for now so its not an emergency to fix but I want to thank you for your answer. I will report my findings.
Another quick question. Does a powered solenoid set or release its clutch, or does it depend on check balls or something else? I noticed both Solenoids 1 & 2 are Off in OD - 4th, but that logic doesn't seem to track across the shift range. LOL
No the two shift solenoids control oil flow to Shift valves in the valve body1-2,2-3,3-4 shift valves. When a shift valve moves it opens up a oil circuit to the clutch. Except the CoastClutch does have its own solenoid. But that solenoid only controls a Coast Clutch valve in the valve body similar to a shift valve.
I got 1999 4r100 4x4 when you put it in d it seems like to starts in a higher gear,and it dont down shift in d , i can shift it manually and it starts in first and there is no passing gear and od lite blinks. I just changed the trans with a parts truck i had worked in that truck but has been sitting in the truck for around 6 years.what would you check?i put new speed sencers on trans a rebuilt ebay solinoid pack,fluid ,filter took the tran harness apart checked all wires and plugs checked contenuity all good reetaped all the loom,
You just need to scan the computer for codes, the overdrive light "blinking " is telling you there's codes in the computer. The codes should lead you to the problem. Also make sure there is power going down to the transmission
Got a question, 96 F250 7.3 E4OD. When checking line pressure with snap on scanner it only shows around 15psi at idle and barely hits 50psi when trying to power brake. Truck shifted fine on my way to work but when I left it acted like I had no power. Wondering if it’s possibly a pump or the EPC that may have went out. No whining from the transmission. I already replace the accumulator valve body. TIA.
No that is reading correctly the pressure your seeing on the scanner is EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) pressure not line pressure. It is around 15 psi at idle and will rise with throttle as it’s doing. That EPC pressure is sent to the boost valve in the pump to raise line pressure 70 psi at idle and rise the more EPC pressure that is sent to the boost valve. Sounds like it’s taking off in a higher gear causing loss of power because it’s lugging from a stop. Possible bad shift solenoid/ sticky valves in valvebody. Just watch the scanner and make sure it’s commanding 1st at a stop. If it is and no codes it is probably one of the two things I just mentioned.
@@marshallsanders5672 so I was able to check the line pressure at the test port today. Line pressure was in spec for all ranges. Reverse seems to pull just fine but in any forward gear it seems like it’s trying to take off in high gear. I forgot to use the scanner to see what gear was commanded, will do that in the morning and ohm out the solenoid valve. Do you think it’s possible in the main valve body?
@@marshallsanders5672 Ok I pulled he valve body today, non of the valves are stuck and all move freely in the bores. Pulled the solenoid valve and verified the poppets were opening and closing like they should. What am I missing here?
Ok that’s interesting for sure we’re you able to scan it to see what the computer is “Commanding”? I never heard back from you on that! Does it have a lot of miles on it? Worn out valve bores can cause these issues as well. If the actuator feed limit valve bore is worn out it can cause low pressure to the shift/lock-up solenoids which would in turn mimic bad solenoids because there’s no enough fluid pressure feeding the solenoids. Very rare and usually only in high mileage transmissions though. Clean the valvebody thoroughly and make sure no valves have excessive play in there respective bores shift valves/actuator feed limit valve/etc. nothing in the pump would cause this because you said line pressure is normal. If the fluid is fine not burnt or discolored you can pretty much rule out it being mechanically stuck in a higher gear. Let me know about what you found on the scanner as far as the computer controls!
@@marshallsanders5672 sorry it’s taken me so long to reply. I cleaned everything and all the valves moved freely and did not seem to have to much play in the bores. Put it all back together, replaced the pigtail going to the solenoids ( clip broken on old one) swapped the range selector with a know good one. Line pressure is exactly where it’s suppose to be. Hooked scan tool up, reads what ever gear is selected. Ran it on jack stands and it shifted through all of the gears and read the same on the scanner. Shows when OD is turned on and off. Still does not pull like it should. One thing I did notice and not sure if it’s relevant or not but the scan tool shows that the Coast Clutch is always on. Also there was a slight amount of material in the pan but it did not look to be excessive. No codes either.
Will this pack keep my f150 4r100 from going forward in drive I replaced torque converter and front seal due to leak from fro t of the transmission and now it altogether again now it don't won't to go forward Helpp please 🙏
No that solenoid pack won’t cause a no forward condition. It doesn’t make sense that it had forward then just changing the TC and now no forward. Is it like neutral in ALL forward gears including manual gears ? Reverse is good ? Did the pan have any clutch/metal in the bottom of it ?
Awesome video, Marshall. Question, I have a 1990 E350 with the 460 motor and the E40D trans. About 80,000 miles on the truck. When I bought it it shifted hard between 1st and 2nd, and also between 2nd and 3rd. The way a truck should shift. Now it's started slipping during all the shifts. Does that sound like a solenoid pack, or is it another issue?
Somewhat of a loaded question but here is the shortest answer. The EPC (Electronic Control Pressure) Solenoid controls the amount of line pressure the transmission has. 70psi at idle and rises with throttle angle/engine load all the way up to 170 or so at full throttle. The EPC Solenoid IS in that Solenoid Pack so technically if that solenoid is stuck at low pressure it would definitely cause the soft/weak shift issues. It very well could be the solenoid pack. 13 min. into the video I talk about that solenoid. The best way to check is do a line pressure test. In drive at idle 70psi. and power brake it med throttle and the line pressure should increase the more you hit the throttle. With that said it could be the EPC solenoid or the Boost Valve in the pump stuck. Not sure how technical you can get or even have pressure gauges but that would be the first check I would do. If your getting line rise then the soft shifting is probably in the accumulator valve body(broken springs/sticking valves etc.) Hope this helps you on your deciding to change it or not but that is the easiest answer I can give you ! I don't want to just say change it because there is other stuff that can cause that issue but it is a likely cause of no line rise and slippy shifts.
I have a 97 7.3psd. I have gone through my harness nothing in the harness is chaffed or loose. Brand new shifter with button. Truck will still not go into overdrive. Overdrive off light stays lit. Sounds like this might be the next step? A pcm was mentioned to me too but I feel like this solenoid pack is probably a more realistic problem?
If it has first,second,and third the shift solenoids are working. a bad shift solenoid would result in two lost gears because it only uses two solenoids for 4 gears. computer failure isn't common but can't rule it out. The stalk lite is the overdrive cancel button so if the light is on it wont get overdrive. Also that light on could be telling that there is a code in the computer as well. You need to scan it for codes first and on the scanner parameters you should be able to see the whether the O/D cancel button is changing from on to off and back on again when you hit the button. If the computer doesn’t see you hitting that button to turn the light off it will stay i 3rd gear
Marshall what type of solenoid setup are inside an 87 F-150 3 speed. Trying to properly diagnose very weak forward pull in all 3 gears, but reverse no issues. Think it could be clogged filter, shot torque converter, or solenoids.
Sons, Haven’t gotten many “Good Old” three speed questions on my channel much ! We’ll to answer that fortunately for you diagnosing is much easier on those than electronic transmissions as there are no solenoids in that transmission. Unfortunately if there is a problem it has to be inside the transmission. When you say “weak pull” is the engine revving like it is slipping but has all 3 gears. Or is it just weak soft shifting ? It sounds to me like your “forward clutch “ is burning out. If the filter was clogged most likely it would do the same in reverse also. Same if the torque converter was bad. If it is just soft shifting then check the vacuum line going from engine to the “Modulator” down at the passenger side rear of transmission. Sometimes that vacuum line clogs and doesn’t send proper vacuum signals to the modulator for proper “line pressure rise” causing weak sloppy shifts. Or the “Modulator” diaphragm is bad causing the same thing. Pull the line off at the modulator and see if fluid is present and that there is engine vacuum with the engine idling. If there is any fluid at that nipple the modulator is bad. If all that checks ok then pull the pan and see if the pan is full of “clutch material”, “metal” and go from there. C-6 transmission is what your working on. Let me know your findings. Thanks for subscribing. Happy to help any way I can
Just subscribed. Thanks for the valuable info. Amazing!! Can you please answer a question?? My 94 F150 E4OD 162k miles shifts good until it gets hot from driving. After about 30 miles truck loose power and drops to 30 mph and seems to be in safe/ limp mode. After sitting for a hour or so truck runs normal again until warming up. Only codes are 637(trans oil pressure shorted) and 625(temp sensor shorted). If I replace the solenoid pack would it fix this issue or should I look elsewhere? I’m restoring this truck and have put a lot of time and money in it. At this point I don’t want to be chasing parts and wasting my money. Thank you for your opinion!!
Its definitely electrical, beings its not a hard code (only sets when it gets hot) I would assume wiring is good. Most likely the solenoid pack is heating up and bugging out. Although it could be an internal computer issue. Ideally checking the ohms of TFT and EPC when hot but not easy for sure. Hope this helps ! Thanks for subscribing, Many more E4OD videos on my channel !
@@marshallsanders5672 Thanks for the reply. I’ll check out the other videos. I think I’ll replace the solenoid pack since it includes the temp sensor and pressure solenoid. Already had the PCM rebuilt by a very reputable company. Can you suggest a reliable source to purchase a good solenoid pack ?
Hello Great video! I have a 1994 E4OD in my Bronco and I am getting a 629 code. Changed the solenoid pack and it test all good. Torque converter is stuck on and vehicle dies when you put it in drive. You can shift to first and get going then put in drive and it runs and shifts fine. It seems like I have a bad torque converter but wanted to get your opinion first before I drop the trans. Thanks in advance!
Charles, It sounds like there is either a problem with the TCC ground wire or computer. the wire may be rubbing some where and touching ground. Disconnecting the computer and trans connector/ then ohm the wire to ground to see if it is showing 0 ohms. To check computer disconnect the trans connector, test light to positive, Key on, touch the TCC ground pin at the trans and see if it lights up. If it does and the wire is ok then the computer is grounding the TCC internally when it shouldn't be.
@@marshallsanders5672 Thank you for the response. I will test this evening and let you know. I may end up going with a manual TCC switch if I cant figure this out. It is a "New" PCM and I am wondering if it is jacked up. What is your thoughts on the US Shifter controllers? May go this route as well. Truck runs great other than this!
It’s a judgement call but it sounds from your explanation that it’s bad or going bad ! Just clean it some more and if it doesn’t give a good click the electromagnetic field is probably getting weak !
Hey brother thanks for the great video. If my tcc solenoid is at 14 ohms should I replace it. Everything works just that specific one is lower. Rest are 20~
I never heard back from Zak1 on that but I’m assuming he replaced the pack. If your is reading lower than 20 and it’s an E4OD then I would change it. IF it’s a 4R100 than the TCC/PWM is supposed to read between 10-18 ohms
I have a question about a 4r100 and I know it’s perched in every video on them I see the part where they say don’t pry on to get pump out is broke on one I just tore down why can you not use this case if it’s broke
@@marshallsanders5672 well a previous shop built it and it didn’t last long center support bearing took a dump I pulled it apart didn’t find any damage other than the bearing in pieces but did see they must have broke the part where they say don’t pry on to get pump out
Yep ask me here and if need be I’ll shoot you my email. It’s just good to question where everyone can view the feedback just to help anyone with similar issues !
I rebuilt this E40D transmission from 95 F350. We put it in and it took some time for the oil to get pressure built up but it did start to move. Took it for a test drive. 1, 2 shift was nice and solid. After a while finally 2,3 shift came in and a gentle switch to overdrive. Them we noticed smoke. We had no leaks when we left,but now there is a steady stream coming from the bell housing. This morning, same thing, steady stream. I put in a tugger kit. I'm thinking the front seal blew out. Would that be your thoughts too, and why did it blow out?
Oh geez that’s not good. Yes either blown out that would probably pour out though, or seal got torn or the retainer spring popped off. I use lock tite around the outside perimeter of the metal part to pump body. I talk about all this in my “pump from hell” video. I’m sure you’ll find the cause once you pull it back out. The late shifting into 3rd and soft overdrive is a bit concerning but have to check the condition of the pump out. Did the converter go in perfect ,did it turn after you bolted the bell housing to the engine. All stuff to consider in diagnosing the front leak !
Hey Marshall, got that E40D out and found that the front bushing has slid forward. Did not turn, but slid forward enough that it is about ⅛ inch past the seal surface.
Oh man that sucks! But you did find the problem. Now for the cause ? Was there not two places to stake it ? If not you can make two notches 180% apart with a file and make sure it’s staked! As well as red locktite the bushing to body! Did it tear up the bushing ? Did you put at least 2 qts of fluid in the converter before yo put it in the trans ? From the way you explained it it didn’t build pressure quick enough which if it didn’t immediately prime and fill the converter could have been the cause! A “Dry Fireup” is the worst case scenario! Let me know
I have a 1992 f150 4.9 with e4od I just got the truck. The Speedo was not working and the trans was in limp mod. I found the wire on the rear abs cut so I put it back together Speedo started working but now you put it in drive and the trans seems to be going in 3rd or it just don’t no we’re to be ive changed the tpms sensor could it be the shift pack and the truck does have a new pcm
It very well could be the solenoid pack . First you have to check for codes to see if the computer is seeing a problem ? Second that you have power going to the transmission at the connector going into the trans. There should be power at 2 terminals at the vehicle harness connector 1 for the shift solenoids and one for the EPC “electronic pressure control solenoid” with the key on then go from there tpms sensor ? I’m assuming your talking about the transmission Range sensor
@@marshallsanders5672 I pulled the solenoid pack I don’t no if the gasket was broke or I broke it but I also see the plug looked like crap bare wires and trans fluid all over them
Hy Mr Marshall. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you have an email address? I would have some more questions, if you have time. I have a ford 550 tow truck with PTO on the gearbox, and I can't activate PTO. I have removed valve block and on 3 solenoids I have proper movement. On the 4, pin connector 4-(positive on 1) I have about 0,85 Amper current consumption, and on the rest is about 0,60. Do you think it's ok? I can't feel any movement of the solenoid....
Interesting ! Haven't gotten many PTO "Big Dog" questions. It would appear to me from what your saying the 3 solenoids pulling .85 amps are they two shift solenoids and the Coast Clutch Solenoid/ "Brown Snout" The 1 pulling .85 amps is probably the TCC/PWM solenoid for the Torque Converter Lock-up. Is that the one with the White snout at the top corner. If so its your lucky day on how to "properly" test it. I have a second video on testing the 4R100 Solenoid pack as well. Just click on my channel and you'll see it posted its the latest video I have done. " Low Ohm 4R100 Solenoid Pack Testing" It explains testing that TCC/PWM in detail. As far as the PTO not working have you checked that it has engine braking in the manual gears 1st,2nd, or 3rd. If it does not have engine braking then there may be a problem with the coast clutch not applying and therefore you wont have a proper engine braking or PTO engagement. The coast clutch needs to be on to get PTO engagement. It sounds like your Coast Clutch Solenoid is working so it would come down to either the computer not commanding it on when you hit the PTO engagement button or something Mechanically wrong inside the transmission with the Coast Clutch. Let me know what you find
On all solenoids I have the right resistance, but one. On TCC solenoid I have 14.4 ohms. And on engagement, I mean when I applied power to it, pin 1 and 4, I hear/feel nothing. On the rest I have movement. Should I have on this one, too?
Again that solenoid is the TCC/PWM solenoid and 14.4 ohms is in proper range ! It mechanically checks different than the others so be sure to check out my other video on these solenoid packs as it explains how to properly test that particular solenoid.
So, valve block is ok. For some reasons, I can't measure an accurate pressure on the gearbox oil pump. Because of the PTO ( it's a Muncie) I have 4 hoses interfere with the gearbox. I have main exit, wich goes into a t-junction: straight is another hose that goes into the PTO body, and second exit is an external solenoid wich should, on activation of PTO, divert the oil flow to activate PTO clutch. When I try to block a hose, I have pressure on the other one's, and being on different thread, I can't find fittings to block everything.... In Europe, Romanian, is difficult to find American parts. But I will manage something..... I'll update later on.
Hey Marshall, really appreciate you making these videos. I recently just finished a total rebuild of my E4OD on my 1997 F-350 PSD. Everything is working fine except I get no torque converter lock-up. While troubleshooting I was doing exactly what you were showing here and I found that all of my solenoids read 20.5 ohms except the TCC which reads 14.4 ohms. I then tested all of them with a 12 volt power supply and could hear a click on all except the TCC, it made no sound (solenoid pack is still on the tranny) Someone on one of the forums suggested I may have gotten the wrong pack, possibly one for a 4R100 with PWM. Would that explain my findings? The guy I bought the parts from thinks I'm an idiot and there is no possible way there is anything wrong with my new $379 solenoid pack.
Absolutely your findings are correct! A 1997 E4OD should have a 20-30 ohm TCC Solenoid. If that solenoid reads 14.4 ohms it is either a bad solenoid or a 4R100 solenoid pack. That is a RED flag for sure ! This is where it gets tough in questioning your buyer and does he even know the difference between a 4R100 or a E4OD pack and he should know the difference that the ohm on the TCC/ E4OD or 4R100/PWM is absolutely different. This is where you cover your bases and know you have an E4OD, you rebuilt the whole trans did it have a cup plug where the TCC valve is in the pump or was it wide open ? $379 is FULL retail on that pack so get the right pack and go from there !
@@marshallsanders5672 Thanks for the reply. During the rebuild I installed the Transgo HD-2 reprogramming kit and per the instructions on page 6 I did NOT modify the non-PWM type lockup valve, just cleaned it and left it as is. It also DID have an orifice cup plug. I think my argument with my parts provider was because he was insistent that if I had a bad or incorrect solenoid pack I would have a DTC, which I don't. I also do not have a flashing OD light. The truck doesn't seem to know there is anything wrong and TC is definitely not locking up. I will get a new solenoid pack and if it works I'll try again to work things out with my parts guy. One other question: is there anything visual on the solenoid pack that would identify it as E4OD vs 4R100 (or rather PWM vs non-PWM)? Such as a part number or possibly the TCC solenoid seal and ball look different?
Ok you definitely have an E4OD trans . The 4R100 PWM/TCC solenoid will have a white snout with two holes in it and the E4OD will be brown with a checkball seat.No identification other than the bottom plastic plate on 4R100’s is sometimes ORANGE but not a guarantee
There many aftermarket kits allowing to block the PWM for the TCC. What’s your view on this? I know it is a standard procedure for the 4L60E (along with the 3-4 accumulator), but for this biggie? Particularly with a multi disk converter?
I always go with the Torque converter manufacturers recommendation on that one. Transgo says don’t eliminate PWM if using a triple disc ! It’s all about how hard the TCC applies on the E4OD/4R100 so I build accordingly to every specific application. I will always eliminate PWM lock-up whenever possible to make for a longer lasting transmission. If I do keep PWM in a trans I analyze the lock-up system to a fault to make sure there are no worn out valves/bores creating excessive slip !
