This by far, IMHO, the best video on this R/R procedure. I did not use tape, I used a Dremel to trim the opening on the left. My flasher (1999 F250 SuperDuty XL), was on the right, not the left. The learning curve can be steep for this, but once you know how, EASY PEASY!
From other peoples comments some flasher relays have been on the left and some on the right. The harness they are plugged into must be able to be flipped one way or the other. So when it was being built in the factory it didn't matter which way it went on. Anyway...I thought of sanding down the edge but I going for a quick and easy repair. It'll hopefully be a long time to I replace it again. Thanks for the tip and your comment 😉👍
Thank you for this very helpful video. I did this on my first try in less than 5 min. ( I put tape on my arm) I also did it the hard way in the junk yard for practice and believe me you don't want to go that route! (2 hours)
This method worked for me yesterday. Thank you for posting this helpful information. My relay was buzzing and quit on me last week and after a quick search found your You tube. My arm is sore but my truck is fixed. Hats Off!
Just a quick follow-up. I ordered a relay on Amazon and it fit ok, BUT, it constantly ticked immediately when installed (ignition off). Found out from further research that it must be LED "compatible". Which means it will work with halogen, led, and or a combo of both. I found Novita EP27 for $15.99 at Auto Zone here in So. Cal. Popped it in and it works great. Cost a bit more than Amazon, but worth it. Thanks again for your great video
Thank you so much for this video! I watched this, got the part added to my shopping cart and then decided to do a dry run before purchasing (I don't know how many times I have purchased something for the truck after watching a video that makes it look so easy and then find out my truck is different for some reason). On my 2006 F-350 (Powerstroke) the "ash tray" compartment is about a forearm's length to the left, so when I pop it out (no screw removal at all) the flasher module is literally right behind it. As long as I stand on my head, I can get my arm in at the right angle to pull off the black cover and pop out the blue OEM flasher. Again, thanks for your video and tips. It gave me a good idea of where to start.
First I changed the turn signal switch and it didn't help it continued the same until I saw your video. Thanks,I did it under the steering wheel and it was much easier and faster
Awesome! This is the way to do this. As an additional note... You can see the orientation of the flasher socket in case you forget when you take it out. It goes in with a little force but not alot. The cap is kind of tricky but you can feel all the way around the flasher socket assembly to determine when the cap and the tabs are seated properly. The tall part of the cap goes over the flasher relay. The other two relays next to it are shorter than the flasher relay. The whole thing is super fast to do.
Thank you!! My (1999 F250 4X4) had the rapid flash due to 2 new LED signal/park lites installed on front of truck. I purchased the EP27 Movita Relay from Oriellys/ My signal/Hazard flasher was located to the right (engine side) I used your cigarette lighter hole access idea. I took a seat on passenger side sitting on my left butt cheek and using my taped up right arm to access. I can see where a big fore arm would be an issue. thanks again for the motivation. I was considering "resistors" until i heard how hot they got
On 2005 F250 with pull down utility compartment, (sort of an ash tray by lighter,) squeeze the side retaining pins towards the center releasing the tray, and relay was directly behind this tray with black sqeeze clip housing. If you purchased Amazon flasher, it's taller and housing won't snap back on. I gorilla taped in place. Took 30 seconds to swap relays on 2005 F250 Superduty
Very helpful video! Removing the old one was not easy but I managed to finally do it. Lots of wiggle and when you can get your fingers behind it you're done. PITA but way better than dash removal! Turn signals are not rapid flashing anymore. Thanks! p.s. forgot to add - I have a 2001 Excursion so no ashtray just the 'panty holder' hook to remove (2 screws)
This did make it easier I thought I would need to take the dash off and being away from home I didn’t want to do that. I did have difficulty pulling out the old relay though. But at least now I shouldn’t need to manually flash turn signals
Yeah that was a big help locating it but my arm wasn't fitting thru there 😅 luckily I have a double din radio took that out & my arm fits there easy thanks for the vid
Great video! Thanks for the help. Only difference was that my flasher was the one closest to the engine compartment. Regardless, it is the large blue one!!
Not to hop on OP’s video but for us bigger fellas the easiest way for me to get it out was to put truck down to 1 gear and remove dash bezel and remove the radio and there is plenty of room to get your hand in there to remove the relay and place a new one in its place. I fought with trying it this way but I couldn’t see it. I removed the radio and I saw it right in the way 5 minute fix max.
I wonder if my 2000 f250 would allow me to do this? I have a cb radio and an aftermarket single din radio in the slot where the factory radio was. My cb radio quit working so I removed it and sent it off for work under warranty and in the mean time, all my blinkers quit working. It ended up being this relay. But since i already had my cb radio out and my stereo radio halfway out, it was easy for me to just reach down in there.
our work truck started having intermittent issues with turn signals.. i found the turn signal relay. i could hear it click only when the lever was moved,, but it did not click click click... i removed the relay, and being the electronics guy that i am, i took it apart, i took a close look at it, and i could see almost microscopic cracks on the repay connections inside the unit.. i did some resoldering and reinstalled / tested.. it works like new now. not sure how much i saved, but saving is always a plus..
Man you are sooooooo right, was a piece of cake and double layer the tape as I am 69 year old retired diesel shop owner an my old man skin would of been in shreds THANK YOU SIR
Word of warning. In some older trucks, there might be a strip of black tape wrapped around the black box. If you can't see the black box (or the tape), then removing the case will be a futile attempt, as it won't budge without removing the tape first.
I did, too. One side popped off, the other side refused to cooperate. I said many choice word.😡 I couldn’t get a good grip. I ended up pulling my radio, and used a trim tool to gently pry around the half opened cover until it eventually popped. The relay part was easy.
Going thru the removed ashtray was a great idea (2000 f-250). However, I couldn't actually see inside , so I did it by feel. As indicated in the video at 4:43 , the flasher is on the left. So I pulled and pulled and finally got it out. Only problem is that it wasn't the correct flasher relay. It was 2 stacked relays and not the correct one. Mine is on the right towards the firewall.
Out of the 126k views I've had a few people comment where the relay was on the right not the left. I just wonder if that's because the place they plug into could have been installed incorrectly from the factory flipping the position from left to right? IDK? Thanks for the comment.
My arm is to big around to fit in that hole but I figured out another way you can take off the duct down by the accelerator only one screw behind the fuse panel cover holding it on only took about 5 mins and you can see what your doing
Thanks for sharing, electric guy tell me get fix it this thing going cost me 150 just for labor plus the parts, but I’m fix it my cell because I see you video
You don’t have to take anything apart. Just reach up in there, take the relay cover off and pull out the relay. Replace by feel. Once you do it a few times you can do it in 10 seconds.
Yo! Tried and tried. could not pull them out. watched another video. used my five dollar radio extractors and pulled the radio. they are about 8 inches below the "WIDE opening of the radio. reached in and, with no arm scratching, pulled them out. Mignt note the i had a parasitic drain which i could not locate. checked the draw after removing the 3 flashers, NO DRAW. Never would have discovered it if the blinkers had not gone out. Consider pulling the radio, it takes about 2 minutes in and out.
I'm trying, too. I can't even get the tabs to release the cover.. my arm is torn up even with the tape. I'm going to try the radio way. BTW, I'm not a chubby chick, but I can't get my arm all the way in that ashtray opening. Maybe because my forearm isn't as long as a dude's. IDK...
Thanks a lot brother. As soon as I put my head under the dash and listened for where the flasher was I turned to youtube to see if anyone has an easy way to get it out lol. Glad I stumbled upon your video. I'm tracking down a parasitic drain myself but the video helped me nonetheless
Thanks for the "short cut"... There was now way in hell I could get my big mitts through that small hole.. My 16 YO daughter got her arm in there most Ricky ticky..
Tip for changing due to hyper flashing: If you question that you are removing the right part, turn your flasher on. You should be able to hear the flasher to help recognize the flasher relay. This obviously will not work if the flasher has stopped working.
hi mate I have a excursion 7.3D and a couple days ago the flasher left side don't working!! but only a left side: the bulbs in front and side and mirror also!! but in rear and on right side everything is working well!! any body know who is problem? or what caind of problems can be?? thanks for put this great vedeo cheers from Norway
Start with the easy stuff, Check fuses, there is a fuse panel inside under the dash and a fuse panel in engine compartment look for blown fuse, check wiring harness grounds(-) to the body. Look for damage to wiring harness in door jam and trace wiring in engine compartment to front signal look for damage. Check all connectors in harness for corrosion. Check the bulbs themselves for corrosion in light sockets. Check with a volt meter if there is 12volts coming to light socket. I hope this helps. Good luck.
What were the symptoms? I have continuous clicking sound that won’t go away after the signals and hazard are returned to off position so is that what you had?
When my relay quit, it just stopped working all together. A LED compatible relay will click a few times after the turn signal is shut off. It sounds like , if yours is continuing long after you use the turn signal or flasher you have another problem. It's a good possibility that you have a short that is feeding power to the circuit for the relay. The short could be in column or the multifunction turn signal switch. Thanks for the question.
@@ZeroFuelRequired Just following up with this, it turns out the other possibility may be the multifunction switch or also known as the turn signal unit. The entire lever and the housing that is in the steering column may be the culprit. I tried a new relay but it didn't fix my problem.
@@raulangulo6351 Yes. Unfortunately, you will need to pay about $200 for the discontinued Motorcraft multifunction switch, that lever and the base is the whole unit that needs to be replaced. There are videos on YT. The process was easy. But the cost was a bitch.
Ford f 150 2001 turn signal from side right it doesn't work. left or front directional yes. the ones behind also working. serve the flasher relay if it ticks .. noise. But the multifunctional switch to change directional from left to right the following I put it to the left and the Light on the dashboard flashes my fast I move the switch a little and is working normal.. that can be wrong?
Hmmm, on my 2002 4x4 XLT diesel the ashtray is tiny, between the pullout cup holders.... Where your ashtray was is a panel with a hook... I removed that panel (2 7mm screws) but couldn't find any relay assembly cover under there, doesn't help that i have XL hands.
Ah hah. Found another video suggesting coming from the fuse panel side.... Well my relay block wasn't where it was supposed to be, but it was hanging loose under there, looks like whomever installed the trailer brake controller mucked about.... Anyways, Ford blue flasher out, Napa EP27L in, and it's good to go!!
i have a 2001 excursion, im going thru the same hole, but im not sure but it might be smaller. i can reach but not release the cover. the tabs are on the side but i can only get to one side. not sure if i have to remove the other whatever next to it. any suggestions? love your technique because i dont want to remove the radio etc.
It's tight in there. Squeeze it and wiggle at the same time. Or find someone with a smaller arm that might be able fit in there easier to grip and press the release tabs. I hope this helps and thanks for the comment.
I'm looking where I bought the relay. I'll have a link here shortly. And no you don't have to have LED bulbs to use this flasher relay. It is LED Compatible, meaning you can use regular bulbs or LED or both. I had an LED burn out in my rear taillight and I put in a regular bulb until the replacement LED came in the mail. The flasher works fine with a LED in the front and regular build in the rear or vise versa.
@PewPewPapi80085 Turn signals and hazards share the same flasher. Since they share the same flasher, if the relay quit both the turn signals and 4-ways wouldn't work. So if one or the other works, then most likely the relay wouldn't be the problem and it would be something else like a bad multi switch, bulb or ground. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question.
Thank you for mentioning the orientation of the flasher, it would've gone bad if i had tried to plug it in upside down.No more hyperflash EP27.... you deserve a thumb up.... 10 thumbs down I don't understand why? Went from impossible to smooth as silk after watching this video.I tried the radio hole but that didn't work for me but through the ash can hole, instant success .... indentations on arm no cuts,
In this video when I show a picture of where there flasher relay is inside the dash. The fuel pump is the other one in the picture. The relay only turns on for 20 seconds then shuts off to prime the system so the truck will start. Hope this helps thanks for the question.
Try wiggling it from side it side, it's hard to reach. If it's stuck really bad and you can't get it to move or come out. you might have to pull your radio and go in from the top.
So in the truck I’m working on there seems to only be one relay, and it is on the right hand side (towards the front of the truck) there is an empty space for a relay on the left. I tried pulling the right one out but it is stuck and I can’t for the life of me get it out of there. Any advice?
It'll come out, just wiggle it. It's odd that there isn't another relay in that block. It's a flasher blower relay block. Like it sounds it Contains the flasher relay and the fan blower relay. If you are missing one in would guess something isn't working lol. Maybe you can get in there with a small channel lock pliers or vise grips just to get a better grip to wiggle it out. Don't crush it. Thanks for the question good luck. 😁👍
It's so much easier to remove the radio to get to the flasher cover. I tried it your way and I was not able to get my arm in far enough to reach the flasher cover. Your way may work for a person with slim forearms.
I don't have slim forearms, I'm 6'2" , it was tight and that's why my arm was all tore up from the sharp edge that I put tape on. Even with that, I didn't have any problems and this video is just showing another way to get to it without tearing the whole dash apart. Whichever way works, thanks for the comment.
Just finished replacing mine. Rapid blink gone, thank you. The only thing is I have an extra blinking sound from the relay after the signal is turned off. Just one blink sound after the signal is turned off. Any one else experience that ?
Yes the LED compatible relays make blink or two extra, even when turned off, it uses up the voltage that was sent to it when it was in the on position. Nothing to worry about. Thanks for the comment.
I bought my relay today and will get around to installing it by the weekend. I do have a question. Why is it that when you add LEDs to the truck, this needs to be done? Like why does it hyperflash? And how come the hazards don't hyerflash but the turn signals do?
Standard flasher relays are designed to flash as a specific rate with the standard incandescent bulbs on the amount of current they draw. The LEDS pull such low voltage when the blinker flashes 2 bulbs it speeds up (hyperflashing) take a bulb out like I did on the video where it is only flashing one bulb and it flashes so fast it fried the one LED. I don't reccomended doing this unless you want to burn out a LED. When you have 4 way flashers going with LEDS in, it is pulling more current through the relay and it will seem to flash closer to the normal speed because it is pulling more current. I hoped this answers your question. Thank you for the comment.
Zero Fuel Required got it. Mine was actually the blue one. Omg; what a nightmare to actually pull them out. It was all finger strength. You can’t get ur palm on them. For forearms r killing me
@@Deerector yeah but it's better than tearing the entire dash apart. Definitely Not much room in there. Glad you got it done and the old saying "pain is only temporary" 🤣. I'm glad I could help and thank you for the comment.
4:55 Showing the orientation is helpful for installation, thankfully the terminals are not symmetric. There's no way to install it backwards. The 3 vertical terminals point upward. You can get in there and take a photo with your phone to look at while you try and slide it into position.
Definitely quicker than taking off the upper and lower dash. However, mine had 3 relays in that location under the cap, and the flasher relay was on the right.
I have a '99 F250 and your video was a great help. I did manage to get a short clip showing the relays on mine. The blue relay on the right is the flasher relay on my truck. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B_QTLzHj1N0.html
Is the flasher a LED flasher or LED Compatible. They are different. A plain LED flasher relay needs LED bulbs in to work properly or a load resistor installed in each turnsignal. A LED compatible relay will work with both bulbs front and rear incandescent, a LED in the front Incandescent in the rear or vise versa. And all LED. Double check what your relay is.
Zero Fuel Required It is a led flasher relay. I have led turn signal lights in the front but stock tail light bulbs. So either replace the relay with the correct one or buy led tail light bulbs ?
@@ivan-ky9je take a front turnsignal bulb out and put it in a back tail light so you have a LED IN Front and rear on the same side then test the turnsignal on that side to see if it blinks properly.
Zero Fuel Required it already blinks properly the relay fixed the hyper flash but now my problem is that the relay itself is clicking even with the key off
Would this fix my issue I have on my truck? It's a 2001 Ford F250 and when I have the 4 ways or left side blinker on they work fine but once I hit the brake they stop flashing and then when I let off the brake they start flashing again
The problem you mentioned can be the result of a bad ground. When you operate both blinkers and brake lights and the blinkers stop blinking, it’s because the circuit is not good enough to operate both lights. Same with headlights and blinkers. Solution is the add an additional ground for the tail lights. Tail lights are the farthest away from the battery. Find the ground wire in each tail light assembly and add an additional wire and connect it to a good solid metal point and your problems should be gone! If not, Check your light bulbs, the two filament bulbs can short out when one filament breaks and touches the other filament, electricity back feeds when the brake is applied. Make sure you have the right bulbs in and check the wiring harness going to your lights for chafing / bare wires and take a look inside the light assembly for any short circuit. Also any additional light like the third brake light could short. Also to check make sure trailer light plug isn't shorted Inside, it can do it too. Or trailer plug wiring is incorrectly wired. Good Luck
This was a great video but i need help still...i drive an 2001 ford f450...shuttle bus. Im so lost ...ive taken off the panel below the wheel and my stereo out. I think i see it but i honestly have no clue... Any advice? I dont have an ashtray but an instrument panel...shoot can you Skype me or somethimg?
@@ZeroFuelRequired lol um i dunno... But i found it...went through the where the stereo is... But had a hell of a time removing it . the damn thing is mounted to the frame. Oh AND it wasnt even the problem i guess...but blinkers still didnt work but whenever i put it in drive or reverse it click like a blinker the entire time i drove. Soooo... I am right back where i started except 15 bucks more broke and a Lil bit mote frustrated! Thanks for answering Hun...i need all the help i can get!
@@roadtrip2recovery625 ok this might sound strange but you say your vehicle is a 2001 f450 shuttle bus. I'm guessing it's a diesel. Diesels don't take a lot of battery power to run and drive. With dual batteries it'll start even if they are weak unless it's really cold outside. There's a possibility that your alternator isn't putting out at least 14 volts or one or both of your batteries are weak and going bad. The reason I say this if the voltage is running low in your f450, relays can act up because they aren't getting enough voltage to stay engaged. That could be the non stop clicking you hear that sounds like a turnsignal relay. So before you replace any more parts let's check to see if your vehicle is putting out the correct voltage. I have a video to help you troubleshoot charging issues. I'll get you a link. Just give me one second 😉....I copied and pasted it, here you go .... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H1o3D8sWb08.html check it out and make sure you've got good batteries and voltage before you do any more troubleshooting. Let me know how you make out with your diagnosis.
@@ZeroFuelRequired BUT you are good. I actually replaced my main battery right before i changed the relay. And the old battery i set on auxiliary battery spot but i havent connected it yet (that battery was getting jumped all the time though but i havent had any battery there at all for months) so it probably is a voltage thong if both spots need good working batteries....ill get back to you
Automotive manufacturers don't seem to care about sharp edges and objects. I'm an automotive technician, and not a day goes by without getting a cut or puncture wound from something.
You can go through the radio to reach the relay also. But radios can be difficult for some people to remove if you don't have the right tools. Factory radios can be a pain. Which ever way you think is easier. Thanks for the question and good luck.
