Put mine back together on Saturday. I got a little impatient. I assumed the black marked links were to be aligned with the dots however after gettin it all back together I got to thinking about it and realized I didn’t count the links in between and wasn’t sure if one side was suppose to have more link than the other. But the video has answered that question. Great vid thanks otramm
you can put a small wide jaw clamp on the bottom sprocket and chaing to lock it on as well , great vid put the orings in with little dab of grease to make them sticky. you should let Fipg from Toyota skin up for a bout 15 minutes before assembling as well
Torque specs are insane on the crank pulley bolt. Hard to believe so I looked it up and sure enough the 1995 torque specs is 304 ft lbs. Wasn't sure which veh. you were working on so I grabbed that one. Have seen people not torque the bolt tight on the older 4 runners that caused a misfire at higher rpm that caused a ton of parts thrown at it.
My 94 LC's timing chain broke at 185K. after opening it up there appears to be no damage inside the cover tho both upper & the lower gears were also broken. my question is the oil jet is pointing to about 4 o'clock & shooting oil to the right side of the gear on the chain; the casting on the block looks like that is correct but the repair manual's shows it shooting straight down on the gear. what do you think should be the correct placement of the oil jet. i sure don't want it to happen again. your videos are most excellent & your opinion would be appreciated. thanks again
Hi there. My name is Francisco. I have 1fz fe inline 6 engine that repair and put it all back together. But is not starting. I have already checked all fuses, connectors and relays. Everything is fine. But the engine still wont start.
@@OTRAMM the earliest version of 1fz it used to have that type of tensioner, at least in Venezuela, but I don't know if here in the U.S. was the same deal , do you have any idea how to contact the guy on Australia that makes it ? thank you for the information
I got my block back from the machine shop and the oil pump bushing is out. I was able to find one and im not sure which way to press it in. The bushing just has one hole in the side of it but the spot where it needs to get pressed in has 2 holes. One on top and one on bottom. Can you tell me if the bushing hole goes to the bottom or the top? I'm guessing from looking at the bottom of the block right under the oil pump circle/port that the bushing hole goes down towards the oil pan because I see the bottom hole goes all the way through?
@@OTRAMM ok but when you had the gear off in this part 2 video do you remember if the hole in the bushing was on the bottom or top after you cleaned and scraped the old gasket? Or when you're putting the sprocket back on, do you remember seeing the hole in the bushing?
Great video, I have a question, I'm working on my 1994 Land Cruiser and I'm trying to change the timing chain tensioner that I think it was no longer at the correct tension. The one I got is a hydraulic from autozone, I've never done this job in the past, but I'm a little worried if it's just taking the old one off and putting the new one on or I need to do something else because it supposedly runs on oil pressure, but I don't have idea if there's something I'm missing, so on my first start up it doesn't skip time or anything else
I would trust a 400k mile factory tensioner over and garbage from AutoZone. I wouldn't bother putting that in. They rarely fail. Toyota is the only tensioner I would use. What makes you think there isn't enough tension? Broken guides are much more likely than a bad tensioner.
@@OTRAMM i ordered the toyota tensioner too, but they seem to be pretty much the same, i having a little rattle that seems to be coming from the timing chain area, we tracked down with a stethoscope and even if thats not the problem i guess it wouldn’t hurt to have a new timing tensioner instead of the oem one after 240k miles.. Im going to follow your recommendation and stick with the toyota, but still its the one that works with oil pressure so what it’s actually the process on replacing it? Just take the old one out and put the new one in? I heard people on forums talking about submerging it in oil before installing it etc. What would you recommend me to do?
I've never done anything special installing them. Just remove and replace. I've only ever done them while already having the engine apart for rebuild or head gasket. I'm not positive on doing it by itself.
@@OTRAMM I guess I’ll just go ahead and replace it, take old one out and put the new one in. Seems pretty straightforward, thank you so much for the help
I put a brand new Aisin timing cover on, brand new oil pump included. I forgot to drop in some oil in the hole you mention at 19:10. Should I just soldier on with the rebuild and make sure to rotate the engine over a couple times before I crank it for the first time? Pull the entire oil pan off so I can drop some oil in there? Or just pull the front oil pump cover off so I can get some oil in there?
Great Video! On start up many old FZJ80 Land cruiser have a rattle for a second or two while oil pressure builds in the Chain tensioner. Mine makes this same noise @ 2k-2700k RPM under light load. Is this a sign of a bad chain tensioner? Have you used the Ratcheting chain tensioner from Wits' end?
@@OTRAMM Ive spent all morning looking for the part numbers on the Toyota online part site with no luck ..What are the called or used for? TIA!! Im getting ready to do my chain and head gasket and trying to get a parts order in...Should I replace the sprockets too?
I just call my local dealer. You'll be better served building a relationship with your dealer than chasing the lowest internet price. Replace everything the chain touches, sprockets, guides, tensioner.
@@OTRAMM They are my local dealer..They have an online parts look up and ordering with local pickup when the order is together..I can usually save some time just looking it up myself...Ill give them a call ..Thanks!!