Every video is free advice and helped me get to know my audi very well. You have also responded to me quite a bit. Some people ask for advice and dont actually want to hear your opinion. Some people dont have the ability to put wheels on lol. I appreciate being able to reference procedures from someone who knows the ins and out.
Thanks for the great content! I worked as a lead tech in a VW/Audi dealership in Maine. I left in 2011 for a different job, and have been taking in some of your videos to catch up a little on what VW and Audi have been up to since I left. It's surprising to me how completely the character of their engines have changed. The old engines didn't know what piston damage was. The bottom ends were rock solid. The top ends were pretty good. I used to buy 1.8T Passats with slipped timing belts, replace the valves, and run them forever. Not sure how bad I want one of these direct injected jobs. Currently working on my boss's 09 Audi Cabriolet w/BWT FSI. #4 misfire, and it's a dead miss. Compression will push 100 psi for the first few strokes then seems to decrease to around 30 psi if you keep cranking and release the accumulated pressure from the gauge. I found a pitted roller on the rocker on the front #4 intake valve along with the corresponding cam lobe being chewed up. At 150k I'm recommending at least a complete head w/valves, rockers, cams. Just hoping the piston's still viable. Any thoughts you might have would be appreciated. Thanks for this channel and sharing all your hard won experience. I know what the acquisition of that experience takes.
Imma tell u now we r having a hell of a time with mt 2010 volkswagon cc 2.0 turbo. I just bought it from a lady pd cash for it and got it legal. Drove it down the road 10 miles and it started pouring smoke out the exhaust pipes. We took it apart found hose broke off inside a hose! Found fuel injectors, oxygen sensor stopped up. Now we r looking at the turbo. Seems everything is ok but were gonna put it bk on with new gaskets and wire the car back up see if it starts. Anyways i bet ive watched every1 of ur videis for guidance. YOU R A HUGE HELP!!! TY SO MUCH!
HI J , I would encourage you to do more of these types of videos, but pick questions that are more focused (ie the person asking must at least have a scan/codes) or as you stated a comp. test. Your insights , experience really come through in this type of format. You could also do, Dealer stories etc. or why you left the Dealer.
Couldn't agree more. I enjoyed this video. I was surprised the original email didn't have some generic P-codes listed as well as it was written. I have learned a lot about Audi and the 2.0 from you. Please keep the videos coming. I will watch your videos either turning wrenches under the hood or Q&A's. I think there's a market for dealer stories as well. Having never worked at a dealer before, a lot of us have preconceived notions on how things work there. I would enjoy hearing your insight and stories.
Disagree. My TSI has 250k miles, oil changed every 20k miles. Original chain, not stretched, just changed the tensioner. Friends in the USA: stop changing crapy oil every 3-5k. The reason why you need to do so frecuent oil changes is crapy oil and crapy petrol.
I’m starting to agree with that, I see so many people not running the correct specification oil in these motors I.e VW502.00 is what it’s called for, Naptown has done several videos on the oil control rings, the bridge screen, vac pump screen and balance shaft screens I think those are getting blown out is crap oil and improper viscosity.. I think that is a major contributor to oil consumption and low oil pressure and these platforms HAVE to run fully synthetic.. meaning you have to spend well over $40-50 for 5 qts
@@virtisconsole12 and those 50$ have to go to oil, you have to add labour, filter. I wouldn't be comfortable with a garage that charges less than 100$ for this oil change, and even that is ver short.
@@xg5zm The chain I just did in a Tiguan CCTA had 83 000 miles. P0016 and cam adaptive was at -11 deg. Tensioner was all the way out and chain stretched a full tooth. Not sure on their oil change history but this is pretty low mileage.
Good day, everyone. I am experiencing the problem described in this excellent video by NaptownbTuner ( you have all my appreciation for all your time invested and hard work to produce those educational videos free of charge, thank you for that). I'll do my best to keep this story as short as possible, but it's impossible... I own an Audi A5 1.8 TFSI CABD, I've had it since 2010, 180k miles, and I've fallen in love with it, but along the way I've encountered a slew of issues, including being hit by lightning, bent valves, a blown rear main seal, windows regulations, and a slew of split electric cables. The more work you do on this engine, the more you find. I'm currently experiencing miss fires on cylinder 4 on idle only, despite having 165-180 Psi on all cylinders. To date, I have removed the screen from the Cambridge, replaced the cam oil valve, replaced all of the sparkplugs, coils,injectors, intake manifold with all of the relevant valves, cleaned all of the carbon build up, replaced all of the intake line and hoses, replaced the throttle body, the rear main seal, replaced the camshaft sensor, and checked all of the electric cables from the entire engine loom through the ECM. I recently replaced the PCV valve, and the camshaft lum has some scoring marks, which is most likely the source of my problem. I do all of this work because I enjoy it, and I intend to keep this car until it becomes vintage ( not far to go,😁)
I’ve got 255k on my Audi b7 2.0t. I’ve got a stubborn misfire on cylinder 3 at start up. CEL flashing. Stops flashing after idle comes down. Using vag com I can see the misfire counter stop as soon as get on the throttle. Changed the plugs coil and even replaced the plug harness. Only one thing left to do….. injector time, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I'm following with you man same problem happened to me last night, (code p0303 misfire on cyl 3) I've changed spark plugs back and forth, that helped but was still misfiring, I changed all sparkplugs and still still happening, I threw in a new air filter just because I thought oxygen might now be circulating well but it's still misfiring, now I'm going to either replace injectors or fuel filter, the car drives but when you try to gain speed it starts misfiring, after changing sparkplugs and air filter it runs better and feels smoother but there is still a misfire. (CEL) WAS ON AND FLASHING BUT IT WENT AWAY AFTER CHANGING THESE PARTS HELP!!!
@@deevee6203 did that fix it in the end? Ive bought a audi tt 2.0t and have misfire on cylinder 3 it sounds like a lawnmower haha and the engine shakes real bad im hoping it is the injectors however might be bent valves
Just subscribed and find your advice very informative. I’m nearly sixty years old and I just bought an Audi A4. First time owning a European vehicle. Dodge , ford , gmc and Chevy since I was sixteen. So owning this Audi will be a challenge, but I like to do as much of my own maintenance. Looking forward too watching more of your vids. Cheers,
I agree. Confirm that the engine is mechanically sound before throwing parts at it. Also, I think anything over 5k OCI is asking for trouble (especially for turbo/GDI systems).
Hey Naptown Tuner. You have good advice and a wealth of knowledge when it comes to Audi/VW stuff. Scotty Kilmer offers free advice on stuff and I tried it and was extremely disappointed in the brush off comments he made. It costs a lot to create and app, but it probably only costs $500 to setup a website. Not sure how much RU-vid $$$ you make per month. But with your experience you should really consider starting a website and let paying customers ask you for advice for $25 or $50 a pop. You can list your answers on the site or make them go dark if the answer is paid - up to you. But might be able to gross an extra $500 or more per day in your pocket giving solid answers to questions with paying customers. Imagine making an extra $10K or more per month. I think your worth paid advice. Don't you?
i have a benz clk 200 2.0 .i have missfire in intake...at cold start at the iddle pops hard and at cylinder 4 the exhaust glows cherry red....replaced coils ,spark plugs,watched in the dark for sparks on wires but it is ok......car runs fine but when after engine brake and accelerate again it pops for few seconds but it runs fine after
Had same issues in cylinder 4 also Cleaned intake valves,injectors and air intake and new plugs Coil packs replaced New bore scope camera Found burnt valves and a piece missing from the valve and cylinder wall damage Found burnt valve
I am having misfiring issue until engine warms up. Once it reaches 90 C it runs perfect . Not too bad now but once it gets cold it won’t be fun. Intake was walnut shell blasted 3 months ago. What could it be?
Im the unlucky one stuck with this mystery idle 2.0T ecu doesnt even pick it the misfires they only occure sligtly on idle car doesnt idle dead smooth as they should. When i take off its all smooth. tranny does shift a bit early and you feel the little bump nudge forward at every shift(AT)
Hi there, I need some help and I've seen your content and I think you could possibly help me. I have we a 2015 audi a6 2.0t. I have misfire on 1,2 and 4. I took off the coil and has oil in chamber in all 4. I can only assume it's gaskets but not to sure.
I cleaned chamber before installing new plugs and coils. I drove it around my neighborhood and about 15 min in. It went back to limp mode. I checked the spark plugs again and the oil came back.
when engine reaches normal operating temperature .......you have a very small droplets of coolant going into your cylinder chamber causing a misfire, ........ a video cam would help,
Could it be damage to the coil wiring harness? Maybe the clip is broken and not making good contact with the coil. I’d compression test first. Then look electrical.
I have Tiguan with 2.0 TFSI engine. Driving on highway injector blow up and got stuck in open position. Drove home for about 10 minutes, had some white smoke coming out exhaust. My question is, how likely that there is catalytic converter damage from fuel coming out and should I change engine oil as well? Thanks
No way!! I’m doing this job on Wednesday to my 16 a4 flex fuel. Misfire on every cylinder tons of codes. Going to use your expertise to remove everything & put it back together. Fingers crossed it’s the injector. Strange thing though. The misfire happened 5 minutes after I filled up with E85. I’m hoping it’s the injector or injectors. I’m going to replace all four. Then change the oil, coil packs, spark plugs, air filters. I really hope this helps. Sounds like my exact issue. I have an epc light on & flashing engine light. I change my oil every 3k miles consistently.
Ok guys I've got the same problem, misfire cylinder number 1, replaced plugs, coils, injectors, compression test, de-carbed the valves. The car misfire on start up brings up the EPC light soon as it gets to operating temp it runs fine no issues, would I be right in saying it might be the coolant temp sensor for the ECU?
I'm dying to know where you were "babysitting" 1000 2.0T's. Was this a fleet of cars? Rentals? I can't even imagine. MERRY CHRISTMAS! Moving to Arizona but I WILL BRING MY CAR TO DETROIT and LEAVE IT if ever I get to the point that I have to have pistons.
Fun fact just take it to audi ik its expensive but na bro these cars are for people with money neverr everrrrr mess with the harness sadly im 18 and learned the hard way and had to pay 4k
@@youngdm9603Yeah don't do an engine rebuild on these unless they're under warranty or you have an RS or R8 model where it's worth it. A B8.5-B9 used S5 is going for $14-20K everywhere with low miles so don't spend $14K on a rebuild 😂 just get a new one. Unfortunately that's how it is in Planned Obsolescence Markets.
I’ve had issues with 2011 audi a4 2.0l avant for almost a year. Rough idle, white exhaust smoke, sputtering, shaking, acceleration issues. Put around $8k into it 6 different mechanics. New engine, oil filter housing gasket, Spark plugs, Pcv valve, lower+ upper control arms, tie rods, cabin, oil, air filters, getting p0304 misfire cylinder 4. Just had oil changed it was at max removed .5liter of oil now just under max. Running better. Spark plugs were just put in. Ran good for 700 miles after the Pcv valve replaced. Then oil change back to rough idle. Dumping money into it. Still issues. Any help would be much appreciated almost ready to give up got $500 more to put into it. Thinking injectors or coils. It’s also shown rich idle before Pcv valve.
I noticed 2nd time it happened after oil change... did u use the right oil? These VW Audis nowadays are sensitive to the type of oil u put in. They want fully Synthetic no matter how much miles u have on it. Wrong oil might clogg up or damage some engin parts that come in contact with it. Like sensors and PCV system. In a lot of late VW Audi cars the PCV valve works together with an Oil/Air Separator located on the block side. If the PCV is clogged oil gets up through the OAS into the intake and burns oil causing white blue smoke. The OAS only suppose to push up oil fumes. Not the oil itself... this can also kill your spark plugs and injectors getting contaminated with oil
@@babelonchabalala1690 it was the correct 5w-40 oil. Overfilled. Did the Diverter valve, coils, ran a lot better. put lots of time and money into the car but after all it would still need timing chain and still a engine prone to bent valves and many other issues that total more than the car is worth. Not worth it to me got into something more reliable. Would get a 2009 3.0L or a post 2015 a4 but not again with the b8 Audi.
Had low oil pressure issues, timing cover leak, cylinder head cover leak, oil filter housing leak all costly repairs. 2 water pumps, Then timing chain would need to be done eventually, lower and upper control arms, struts, sway bar links it’s an $35,000 car to maintain with a worth of $7k these days.
Ecs dipstick measurements are off. 4.7 liters 5w-40 as stamped on oem drain plug. The 4 denso coils and updated Diverter valve were $150 in parts and $150 to install and significantly made a difference in acceleration and cold starts. The upgraded Pcv valve also and ngk spark plugs all highly recommended maintenance under $500. But for example Pcv valve on my car now is a $14 part and not known to blow out like an Audi. Maybe not as fun to drive though.
I am currently in the same boat......i replaced, spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, replaced rear main seal, pcv......car smells like it is burning rich.....a little bit of white smoke coming out.....rear main was damaged, replaced injectors because gas was coming out of tail pipe. I am getting misfire in cylinder 1 and hide cylinder. Checked compression and it is 150......At this point not sure what to check/change next.....i did an intake valve carbon cleaning when i replaced the injectors......I am getting EPC light and check engine with code P0301 for cylinder 1 misfire....car is currently not driveable......car is a 2010 Audi A3 2.0TFSI Quattro with 68K.......any thoughts anyone?
Audi scan tool has “reset misfire adaptation” but all the engines I’ve ever worked on at the dealer I’ve never been told by Audi technical assistance that injectors had a code or needed coded. In my region we has very few tdi engines so if that’s that case for those or newer models someone can let me know. I was always told to do reset misfire adaptations after every engine install / injector swap. And without doing that the car can take a few drive cycles to re-learn itself
I was anticipating this same issue when I swapped in a 14 CPM A5 engine into my 11 CAEB A4.. So I pulled the old injectors out and put them in to avoid having to code them.
This is what happens when you go cheap and try to outsmart someone with 50k+ invested in his career. Not including blood sweat and tears. Well deserved 👏 keep throwing parts making big parts companies money and working class poor.
