A tip I learned the hard way. When you put the small O-ring on, put the new filter on first. This limits any side pressure you may put on the shaft while struggling to get the new small O ring on. I didnt and snapped off the shaft from where it mounts inside the cover. Took a day of driving all over Minnesota to find a dealer that had another one. Good luck all!
Just did the first oil change. No more free at the dealer. Last was about $85. That little socket tip made things much easier with that small o-ring. Total job time about 1 hr. Tks for the tip - came in handy for sure.
Changed mine today. Removed 3 of the air dam 8 mm screws (left the starboard rear one and swing the air dam over to the starboard side out of the way). Replace all 3 oil filter oil rings: used screwdriver to stretch the little one off. Put new small O ring on needle nose pliers and OPENED the pliers to stretch it out, got it right on. Sucked oil out through the dipstick hole with a pump, but....then pulled drain plug and 2-3 qts still gushed out. Probably a bit less gushing/cleaner than letting all 6 qt gush out. Decided i won't be able to just use the Harbor Freight oil pump to pump the oil out. Add full 5 qt jug of Full Synthetic and drove off ramps. Will slowly top off to 6ish qt tomorrow.
I use a piece of single strand coated copper wire to get under those o rings. I bend the end of the wire and work it under the o ring then pull the wire through and pull the o ring up and off. Some people use a plastic dental pic to get the o rings off. Or a metal curved mechanics pic. Also I only remove 3 of those under engine cover bolts. I just loosen the drivers side rear bolt then rotate the cover out of my way. It makes it easier to put it back on. Good video.
Thanks for the video buddy! I'll be doing my 3rd oil change tomorrow on my 2018 2.7 ecoboost, 15K miles, just like the one in the video. I'm an old guy so I like to refresh my memory before doing it again. Getting the right size sockets from the start etc. Since you asked, I use motorcraft filter and 5W-30 oil just as you did. Sometimes it's actually the cheapest oil on the shelf at walmart also. Hopefully an oil change will be the deepest I'll ever have to dive into this truck for the rest of my life. I traded in a F150 5.0 L cause I didn't like how much throttle I had to apply when merging on the interstate and long inclines while pulling about 6K lbs. of camper and cargo. This little engine and 10 speed tranny is sweeeet....hell, I dont even put my hamburger down cause I need to focus on the truck...turn up the tunes, eat a french fry and cruise with confidence! :)
Good Video Brother! My 2015 2.7 has 5w20 on filler cap, but I use 5w30 synthetic blend. Also, one thing I have learned over the years is stay with what the MFG says to use in your engine or trans! It is formulated by Mfg for your specific application, period!
Manufactures don’t formulate oil, they just require a set specification to be met. Motorcraft is a decent oil. However I prefer full synthetics of the proper grade. When it comes to transmission fluid def stick to OEM in these newer vehicles for long service life 👍🏻
Just did mine and installed the Rhonin oil plug. I'm sure the next oil change will be worth it. Though I gotta say, holding the factory plug in a bit to regulate the flow for a minute or two wasn't bad at all. Very easy.
Because the shop where I work recycles our used oil, I don't recommend spraying the brake clean into the oil drain pan as it contaminates the oil to the point where we cant get it hauled off!
If you like checking your oil level afterwards for peace of mind, don't forget to let it sit at least 15 minutes after starting! I heard a horror story of someone putting 10 quarts in because it wouldn't mark on the dipstick.
@@meditationstation710 People be doing things like that! Had a jeep a few weeks ago, said they needed a brake job. They ignored it so long a backing plate shot out and killed the caliper.
That plastic oil plug is the most infuriating design. On my Bronco, it shoots oil out to the passenger side tire. To say I made a mess on the first change is an epic understatement.
Might as well leave that air deflector off after the oil change. One corner broke off of mine after about 15k miles so I just removed it, and can’t even count how many I’ve seen hanging while driving down the road. Didn’t see any difference in fuel economy, and it sure doesn’t offer much in the way of protection.
I like oil change vids. Always interesting to see how they differ. I can recall how terrible it was to do the oil on my gen 2 5.7 Toyota Sequoia. Had to remove a skid plate that was sort of heavy and awkward. I'd like to know what your worst oil change is/was....? I like to use OEM oils or Mobil 1. In my big diesels I'll use T6 Rotella or Mobil Delvac. I've had good results with both. Key is to change often. I'm not a big believer in keeping oil in there for more than 3,500 miles. Oil is cheap, an engine is not. Thanks for the video pal, hope all is good in D land!
Love the channel, you do great work. Wish there was someone like you where I'm at. Every time my F350 been for recalls or warranty they've trashed other parts when getting to the recalled parts. It's unbelievable. Keep up the good work!
Great video! Thanks for breaking it down. Yes that plastic drain plug and then that design of where the oil dumps out is frustrating. I bought the RONIN drain plug, sooo much better and cleaner to do my oil changes, no splashing anywhere. And as always I’m running AMSOIL Signature Series 100% synthetic! 🫡🤙🏽
Hey ARod. I know 2.7 EB owners are pissed when we find out that the oil pump is driven by a belt. I found that the replacement oil pump, Part # FT4Z-6600-1A is a CHAIN driven pump. It even comes with the CHAIN !!
That plug, if you loosen it up and leave it in the pan but pull it out a little, the oil will flow directly down. You have to hold the plug the whole time but it snot as messy for a DIYer.
I have a 2018 2.7, I have changed the oil at least 10 times. Removing the lower panel is the hard part. Could you please send over the guy that helped you.
Top of engine oil filters should be the standard imo, i think the europeans got it right. Less mess.... but it still doesnt make up for the drain plug location.
Thanks for the video. I was able to do mine as I had an idea how to start. I was doing last week but didnt have 27mm soceket and all my other 1/2 socket needed a tad more to fit. I tried other ways to break off but didnt want to damage the oil caseing so I had to wait about 2 days for the socket to arrive. Not too much labor. This filter was black (ran 4100 miles). I just wonder if the dealer ever changed it. Dealer charges about $85 and wait time is about 3-4 hours with an appt. I got this done in about 1 hour. Next time it will be much quicker. Have the tools and sizes needed comes in handy.
Thanks for the video. I plan I doing this early in the a.m. tomorrow. Have all my parts and tools. I may look up torq specs for filter. I dont want to crack it. How long should I let run to cycle all the new oil thru? I think a minute would be good. Now I have to look up how to reset the oil percentage. 2017 2.7. using original ford oil and filter. have only 38k on this engine -dont put a lot of miles on it. Dealer is about $85 but it takes hours to get it done. I paid $26 less of the $85 just for parts and I do the labor at home which I dont mind.
oops forgot to change o rings not leaking good to go change them next time. run full synthetic change every five thousand do not trust dealer reccomendations kinda like why the engineers of ford approved of this plastic plugs and and plastic filter cover, great video liked it bunches
Just got a 2020 Explorer ST. Just turned over 1000 miles, so haven’t done the first oil change yet, but will go with full synthetic. On a side note, holy shit balls is that Explorer fast!!!
Good video. Seems the drain plug is causing me to hesitate about doing this. Maybe my 2021 F 150 might be easier, but probably not. I experimented with no oil change with 100% synthetic. Did ok for 10 + years with my 06 4.6 V8 Crown Vic with 135,000 +. Everytime it was down a quart I would just add a quart and change the filter, which is in essence adding 2 new quarts of 6. The synthetic does not tar up. The CV eventually was totaled but the engine was in good shape I figure.
Great video. Ty for the simple explanation on how to change the oil. Does the O rings come with the oil filter or is that separate? Just so I know to ask and purchase both at the same time.
Thank you, in Russia there are no such videos, because there are no these machines) Can't find the part number, The bolt at the bottom of the engine that is yellow ... and I saw you poured a 5 liter canister, but it seems you need 5 + 1 liter?
@@repairvehicle did you watch it or are you being real skeptical? No he has not. The oil has all the proper certs and badges as do all the other brands. Check out how he tests then come back and bash what you actually have researched a bit. I'll wait.
@@repairvehicle API'S CERTIFICATION MARK AND SERVICE SYMBOL identify quality motor oils for gasoline- and diesel-powered vehicles. Not my words. Hey no one said you have to use it. It's just another possibility.
i took my f150 to dealer for oil changes every 5k. the one time im doing it myself. the bolts is rusted shut and rounded. I dont think they changed my oil unless they used some oil pump through fill cap
Quick question. I have a 2016 2.7 ecoboost F150. The other day I checked the oil after the truck sat for about 15 to 20 mins on level ground. The oil was just below the first hole on the dip stick. So I added oil to it and checked the dip stick again in the morning. Now the oil level is slightly above the second hole on the dip stick...is it okay if the oil level is a little above the second hole? Anything to be concerned about?
I can’t believe how most mechanic shop and dealership charges 150/200 CAD to do an oil change when you can do it at home in less than 30 minutes by yourself without waiting a few hours getting it done somewhere else
Thanks for the lesson. When I was younger I always did my own oil changes but it's be a few years and engines have changed. Albeit a simple thing to complete it is nice to know the new tricks. My truck has over a 100000 km now so I went with a 5/30 Castrol High mileage. My understanding is that it is 50/50 oil and synthetic. It is nice to hear from you that OEM was a mix as well. 1 question though if you could. The winters were I live now hit -60F and a balmy day is -15-20F. If I run an oil pan heater, can I stay at 5/30 or should I go with a 0/30? Thanks again for the lesson, it is a good video.
I have a 2019 F150 2.7, 44k miles. I've noticed oil on the front cover below the oil filter housing...particularly around the bolt, an dfurther down the front cover. Where is this leak coming from? Just the thought about taking it to ford dealer under factory warranty, I may not have my truck for 3 weeks!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Bummer. I have an appointment to take it to ford dealer Monday. Hopefully it's not major. Love the truck, but hate these type of issues. Thank you!
Do the oil filter O rings need to be change during every oil change? or can they be used a few times? I ask because since it is time consuming, I don't believe the dealer or quick lube will care to change these O rings.
Did it take the full 6 quarts? Bunch of folks with the new 2.7 Bronco can’t seem to get 6 quarts in without going over the max fill mark on the dip stick.
A bit of brake clean gets inside the engine when you clean off the plug with it and immediately put that plug back in the engine. I'm sure the small amount of brake clean in the engine wont matter since itll just burn off, but Im pretty paranoid that the brake clean would "degrease" anything it comes into contact with
My new filter didn’t fit snug when put in the housing, when turned upside down to screw it back in chamber it would slide down to the end of the little pole thing sticking out. Is this an issue or will it snug up when tightening the housing back w a torque wrench?
