2 Great Planer Upgrades & 1 Bad One! 

1. If the floor has a slope, level the workbench. 2. to avoid wiggling, make a mechanism to temporarily buckle the cart to the workbench

For the slope issue, there are adjustable casters that you could put on the bottom of the assembly table legs, then adjust the far end up, keeping the planer end down low.

I used the HAUL-MASTER 1000 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart from Harbor Freight with the same planer and didn't experience excessive movement. I've since upgraded my planer, but I still find lots of uses for the cart.

1. the lift is not structured for side force.2. Presto has a light weight lift that would do 1000 lbs. 3. hydraulics will drift. 4. there is a kid out there that made his own version of a scissor lift out of wood which would be really easy to do with a CNC. Love the work, you getting there.

I did something similar a few years ago for the same planer. Your torsion boxes are under the planer, at the infeed and the outfeed. I have one removable torsion box that slides into and sits on the bed of the planer. The dimensions are 48” x 13” x 3”. I never use the full height of the planer so I don’t mind losing that functionality. My torsion box is 3/4” ply with a 3/4” MDF top. I added a 1/4” HDPE surface to the MDF and recessed the screws. I can slide the single surface infeed/outfeed torsion box in an out as needed for storage and mobility.

For the outfeed support I'd suggest adding some kind of keying system that mates to a feature on your assembly table. That will enable you to easily align it to be coplanar every time you bring the planer out. This will both help with the non-level floor and make it easier to get to the exact right height every time. Then something like the swing-down legs you proposed with quick-adjust leveling feet so it's supported nice and snug, but the key means less checking back against a straight edge and lets you put a little tension in the supports without being pushed out of flat.

I have the same issue with slope on my floor. For my build table, I used short pieces of 1" iron pipe going into iron floor flanges. I had to use different lengths of short pipe as my floor is ridiculously sloped. Basically a heavy duty version of the legs on your infeed/outfeed torsion box.

I did the exact same thing with the moe ped lift years ago... it really changed things.

Use a straightedge to make the planer bed and table’s slopes match, then add some over center latches to attach the planer to the table and keep the two surfaces aligned- the extra width of the the table should help with the stability of the planer side to side, but perhaps a different lift is needed since you indicated it was already breaking/ wearing out. Appreciate you sharing your experience/ issues along the way- hopefully you will find an easy fix

I ordered the Wixey planer gauge today based on the install in your video. The depth stop on the Ridgid R4331 is a little spongy which is why I’m adding Wixey (plus consistent easy to read measurements)

Using adjustable stabilizer legs that swing down from each side of the torsion box. When not in use, they can swing back up for storage.

I saw one at anothers person shop. They did the same. But they used a heavy duty motorcycle scissors jack. I plan on doing the same build. Also available from Amazon. It has minimal side from side sway.

I have mine on a cart. It has storage under. Dust collection cart that Rockler gives free plans on their site associated with the chip separator kit. I like low carts and carts that stack another tool above. Good candidate for a cart with planer under a sander.

Great video and I really like the table! Here are a couple of suggestions to improve stability and alignment: 1. To prevent the cart from wobbling, perhaps you could build a connector that stabilizes it with your outfeed table? 2. For the slope issue, consider adding a heavy-duty shim or washers between the planer and the top of the torsion box to align with the slope of your table.

Perhaps add a couple of draw latch sets to the underside of the planer outfeed and the table to align and connect the planer securely when in use - think of the way a removable leaf is secured to a table. I think this would stabilize the unit and simplify getting it to the right height each time.

I have been thinking of doing something similar with my DW734. I plan to add an extension to my 2’x4’ workbench so the planer bed can sit level with it. I thought of maybe having heavy duty hinges so it could fold down if I needed it out of the way. My idea for micro adjustment is to use 1/2” Allthread Rod with nuts and washers to raise and lower either the planer itself or the top part of the planer extension wing. Mounting directly to the end of the workbench should eliminate that sloping issue you encountered having 2 separate items butted together.

Folding legs on the cart that you drop once the lift is fully extended. My planer is on a shopmade steel cart. It's not height adjustable, but is at the same height as my workbench for outfeed. I made cupboards underneath for storage.

I just got this planer. It didn’t come with outfeed plates so the sled part of the build was very interesting to me. Thank you. Most of all…thank you for being genuine and honest re the stand. I’ve already picked up the planer a couple of times before watching this and had some idea of the weight. I’d be uncomfortable using in like that due to that shifting. If possible please post an update to the vid and share what solution you decided on.

I did the jack upgrade about two years ago great addition.

If you added fold down legs with leveling feet under your torsion box, then when you raise the planer and put it in position you could let the legs down which would do two things - first, it would stabilize the whole thing so it won’t tip over (or move in any direction). Second, you could adjust both legs and the start of the indeed table to create the little slope you need to match the outfeed.

Great project even if it didn’t work as expected, appreciate you sharing your trial and error work. My solution since you got the lift and it’s handy for what you need it for, is to make a sliding tray that you can push your unit unto your perfectly flat bench. Then when you’re done, slide it back without lifting it each time. Otherwise the other solution I’m looking at is a spin type cart, the unit flips under, either sharing the cart with a sander or just a flat top table.

Great build that simply needs a base widener/ stabilizer that could easily be made retractable or folding and it would eliminate top load pitching yet still allow under counter storage.

You can also make to saw horse and lower the planner onto both on it will be side to side sturdy. Then shim far side of finish table

Great video, I appreciate your efforts and brevity in not showing endless minutes od doldrum sanding, cutting, moving stock, etc. In so far as your issue with the sideways motion of your jack, if you haven't resolved it already, I would suggest 2-4 swing away outriggers, at least on the non0-operator side. You could do both sides, but then they would get in the way of your movements. I'm not sure that the movement will affect the final product as the bed should be stable relative to the planer, if the concern, is tipping, then maybe 100lb. lead plate on the bottom of the jack might help out. Thanks again for the professional video and the time you take to keep the shop clean and presentable during your takes.

Once you get the outfeed table problem solved, you could set up the outfeed table with a set of bolts and threaded inserts to align n both tables with repa\eatability! That should remove a LOt of the movement you're getting from the scissor lift/motorcycle lift.

What about a hydraulic table cart? They look like an oversized, less wobbly version of the one you used. I do like your idea. I may pursue something similar. Excellent video too!

for side way wobble I would bolt a piece of steel plate through the caster holes then move the castors to the outside edge of your steel plate which will act as a down rigger The steel plate could stick out beyond the legs as far as you want.

I haven't read all of the replies so this may have been suggested. Forget the workbench. Make a new, longer torsion box as an extension that can easily be fixed to the end of the existing torsion box. Add a couple of folding, extendable legs to the end of the new torsion box for extra support. You may find it better to put two more at the front end of the new torsion box as well. It should easily be removed, collapsed, and stored. For stability, you may try a similar idea, adding side wings that are removable with extendable legs but adding cross supports to reduce lateral movement. Again, design to easily remove, collapse, and store. Mine doesn't collapse like yours with the scissors lift. I've built a tray with wheels that I've put the planer and stand on (it was easier than just adding wheels to the stand). I move it out of the garage onto the driveway to use. I do have some snipe but it's not as much a problem for the kind of work that I do. Saying that, I might look into something to reduce the snipe (just in case I need to at some point). Thanks for your ideas.

That's just brilliant, dude! It may be wobbly, but it's a fantastic idea! 😃 Now, to fix this issue, I'd say you have 2 options. First is to replace the jack, as people suggested already (and there are also those hight adjustable tables that should work)... Or to make a wooden structure around it, to reinforce it. Which isn't going to be easy... But it's definitely doable. You know? I don't know, perhaps with drawer's sleds and things like that. Either way, looking forward to see how you fix it. 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

I really like the collapsible stand idea, as I have a small garage shop. Please look into this some more. Maybe a larger stand. great Idea.

@25:25. You can make a caster extensions and move the wheels farther out.

Mount some swing down adjustable legs to both ends of your torsion box. Once you get it jacked to height swing the legs down and slide the adjustable legs to height that levels the table. 4 legs will eliminate side to side stability issue as well.

Justin, some great ideas here. I wouldn't toss out the jack acting as the base, at least not yet. When the planer is raised and in position to operate, would it not be possible to attach legs to your platform, thereby temporarily turning it into an extended and fairly stable workbench? You could create legs in any number of ways; my thought would be to do so using 3/4 ply in an L or T shape, and with adjustable feet screwed to the bottoms, to allow to fully stabilise the whole unit -- but you're a creative guy, and can certainly come up with your own solution. And, as for the slope of your main bench, given that (I believe) it is there for the long term, it might just be worth your while to level it out, even roughly, thereby eliminating most or all of the outfeed slope challenge. Always look forward. to what you come up with. All the best from Canada.

I had the same idea. I ordered one of the jacks off of Amazon (same type and color) I didn’t like the stability as well and changed direction. Looking at the harbor freight 500lb lift table

In my experience scissor lifts are never perfectly stable unless you buy really expensive ones. The better option would be to use an interlocking wedge under your two table tops. You would have a small piece protruding from the bottom of each table, but it only needs to be enough to catch the bottom of the opposite table. The wedge is placed on one table and two pieces are fastened on the opposite table so they are tight against the sides of the wedge when the tables are clamped together. Use two of those cam locks like you use on window sashes to lock the tables together. It’s simple and strong and accurate every time. Then I would level the longer table, but it is up to you which table to align with the other. By having the wedge be four parts you can spread it to the width of the out feed side of your planer table so that it is locked in all the way across. I’ve used this to lock together modular systems where a perfectly smooth transition is needed between modules with great success.

Where the wheels connect to the motorcycle jack, tack a wider piece of ply (possibly another torsion box) and extend your wheels. Now you don’t have to raise it as high and you have additional storage.

You could either use shims on the lower end of the workbench to level it better or you could put extender feet on the mobile base to make it more stable, as they do with mobile cranes, just an idea or make the base bigger.

Really neat idea with the jack. I think Marius Hornberger made his own. The other thing you could try is, putting leveling feet on your torsion table.

Hi , great job on video. I just wanted you to know I used a 500lb hydronic lift cart I purchased from Princess Auto and it works great. I modified the handle height and changes the wheels so they all can lock and swivel. I would send a picture if you like.

For the outfield, add shims between the lift and torsion box to bring it to the same slope as the assembly table.. As long as you intend to position at the same end of the assembly table every time, should solve that concern.

Well since you already built it you might as well add side stamps like those mobile cranes use to stabilize their footprint. That would solve the side rocking issue. For the out feed table I would raise one side to make it level (assuming it wasn't level).

As someone else mentioned latching it to your assembly table I would suggest adding alignment pins

With that table, it has holes in the base where the scissor lift slides. There is supposed to be a bar that goes across the frame to secure the lift from coming down under accidental release conditions which is held by a hairpin. If you lower the lift back down to that point, it becomes more stable; I have the orange vevor(I think) version and it works great. As an idea to keep it flush with a table, you could actually make an assembly out of that heavy square unistrut that would hold the planer square to the table when it is lowered down onto it. Make a pair of receiver hitches basically that accept tubes from the planer side; when you drive the planer up and take the pressure off from the stand, it should ride with the torsion box and float together (if that makes sense. I am thinking like a forklift holds a load basically, but your outfeed table is the forklift

If you have the space? Maybe build another torsion box that you could mount the lift on less the wheels. The new box could be made wider than the current wheel spacing. The wheels to be mounted on the box itself thus giving more stability. Cheers

Can’t help you on the shakey cart other than beef it up or buy a better one. But your torsion assembly table should be shimmed dead level. You want that to be not only dead flat, but also a REFERENCE surface for level. Having that in any shop is a game changer.

I appreciate the transparency and look forward to seeing your solution!! Side question, do you still plan on calibrating the depth stop since you have the digital readout or can you even calibrate it with the thickness of the laminate?

Hubbie has a similar jack and was concerned about how stable it would be. Maybe add a set of telescoping legs, think photography monopods to little swing arms. Love the upgrades you share…I have the same Delta saw.

If it were me, I would level out the workbench. You can get machine levelers for a reasonable price that would allow you to plane it out easily and still have a rock solid bench. This also gives you a LEVEL surface as well as it being a FLAT surface. While not totally necessary for a lot of woodworking projects, if you plan on doing any epoxy pours, or any projects including liquids, concrete, etc. a level surface becomes extremely important. It also gives you a nice reference surface to build other projects on, or to. Anything else you plan for in the shop, if built to a level reference, should plane out to the bench. Why try to cure the symptom when you can fix the actual cause? As for the lift being wobbly, I see 2 options: 1. Add some fold out adjustable wings at the base to stabilize the base, or remake the base wider to gain stability 2. Eliminate that mini lift, and go buy a lift CART that performs the same function but has better stability.

what about a ramp type setup (wedge) on your big table to match the drop so you don't have to level the table or raise the back end of the planer. Also was thinking of a few of those bench top type rollers that have adjustable height's, usually used on temp chop saw setups. You could mount them to a board or clamp them on your big table and just raise them separately to match the stock as it comes out of the planer. Good luck, and great idea!

Leveling the table seems Easiest and maybe some locking latches to eliminate the wobbling

couple ideas.. add hinged stabilization arms (like a crane) to the jack. reweld the jack frame with new stable size. add a plate above the casters, moving casters to new corners.

I had this idea too earlier this year. I decided against it since I figured it would wobble like shown on your video. My idea would have it locked down to your bigger workbench when its the same height. Maybe with with nuts and bolt. I hope that makes sense with my current description.

Great video. Vervor builds using a cheap metal/plastic alloy. Caution, there quality is questionable at best. I'm thinking some sort of solid legs that drop down once its cranked up and then stabilizing it with some sort of bracket attachments to the bench. Im seeing some kind of telescoping legs that stay in contacts with the ground as you are bringing it up but if the lift fails, a mechanism that prevents them retracting for safety. It sounds better in my head.

If your outfeed table doesn't move around your shop, you could add shims under you low side of the table.

First thing level your table. Second HarborFreight has a lift cart that looks like it is the same size as your torsion box feed and out ramp it is very steady and stable you won’t have the tipping issue. I know I own one and love be it.

Build a modular mount off the end of your work table. Use the jack only to transfer the tools from storage to the mount and back. Each tool would require a baseplate that fits the modular mount. The baseplates can be fitted to drawer slides that hold them in storage high enough to use the jack. Slide tool out of storage, lift with jack, install to table mount. Done.

I’ve been wanting to do something very similar but I was planning to build it into my out feed table so it would store away but loft up when needed. I guess I would not need the torsion indeed or out feed.

Just built a cart for my 735 with work bench in mind for out feed, haven't had a chance to try it yet, floor slope is in my mind, I figured I'd tackle that when I get to it lol...still no idea what im guna do bout that...

Here’s my thought: The lift is doing what you want, but it’s unstable when at height on lateral force, outfeed table(workbench) needs a docking area for the setup. That back leg can have a flip up wing with a leg and 2 (I can’t remember what they’re called) hooking clamps to secure lift setup to solid wing. I can picture it in my head. I’ve been using a melamine bed but still getting snipe and I’m guessing it’s because I need a torsion box like this. Great video.

Gluing wood to melamine with wood glue is a recipe for failure. (I tried this on my miter saw station). Titebond makes a Melamine Wood Glue specifically for this. Regarding the leveling, it’s a good idea to level every work surface in your shop, to avoid this kind of problem at the end. A 48” + level and shims (or leveling feet) are all you need. Last tip, don’t be afraid of using aluminum or steel strut in shop fixtures. It is always straight, very strong, and often lighter, cheaper and less labor intensive than wood. You can get it at Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.

Perhaps the wood base. Stabilize by creating latches on mobile base to secure to stationary base. Or you could create outriggers or “training wheels”. Just a couple thoughts.

Could you attach two sliding bars - 1 to each side of your torsion box or stand - that slides out and attaches to your bench to give it rigidity in the top position? Something like bedrail clips to quickly attach the bars to your outfeed table and then detach them and slide them back for storage.

Maybe fixed braces on the sides of the motorcycle lift secured with possibly wingnuts for easy removal.

That's an awesome set of upgrades.

What I really appreciated with this video, is that even with a good plan, and proper execution, sometimes it still doesn't work out the way you hoped. ❤

Change the casters to those longer liftaway casters and mount them to the side that allows the shaking

Cool idea. Saw this coming having built table saw outfeeds. Felder FAT tables are awesome but $1600. Just be safe. Those motorcycle jacks aren’t really designed to go that high.

remove the wheels/casters, add a plate (plywood?) and add to bottom, get better casters and just make a slightly wider support at the base? You could build in the lean to match the bench at the same time

I made a similar item with a 30 x 18" SS wire cart and a RV stabilizer jack.

I’d definitely just shim the workbench so that it’s level. Way less hassle. As for your tippy-cart… another short but wide torsion box on the underside of the motorcycle jack and move the casters to the further-spread-out corners. Making it wider at the base should help with your stability as long as the scissor portion is strong. This would of course increase its minimum height in the fully collapsed configuration, so only possible if you’ve got a few inches of clearance under the cupboard you want to park it under.

2:40 just came to mind, Something Norm might have done with a bench too tool. The tool lives under the center of the table, you remove a cover plate Crank the planer up from below 2 or 4 arms fold out to lock the tool in place so the work area is flush And its in the center of your bench. Depending on length of the bench You have a 3 to 6' both sides. It lifts on a crank screw drive system when the tool reaches the top 2 to 4 arms like a door hasp pop out on the sides to lock its table into perfect position because Its bolted to this it can't move.

This is going to sound a bit odd, by maybe look into 'server lift carts'. They are used in the computer industry to help lift big computer servers to mount into 'computer shelving' aka server racks. They are a larger platform, but might be a little more stable since they are designed to lift a lot higher than the bike lift.

Build a set of foldable outriggers to the base of the jack..

Level your table, What about some sliding tubes that come out of the bottom of your table and extend to both sides of your planer so it can’t move in the side directions?

Great build. One tip for the threaded feet if you didnt want to use the plastic you can drill the wood the right size and cut threads with a regular tap. Threads in wood are surprisingly strong and resilient.

Justin, just a quick what about adding some out riggers like you see on cranes for stability

Look into a Harbor Freight lift table, I use mine for lots of different things, and it seems very stable.

"Sometimes, your experiment doesn't work..." Truer words were never spoken, and something I tell my grad students ALL the time. More constructively, I wonder if rotating the planner ninety degrees on the jack would improve stability at all; I have my doubts, but I think it's worth a try as long as it would not require an excessive amount of modification to the substructure. The second thing I am wondering about is if you could add some sort of stabilizing feet to the sides to absorb some of the rocking (think the feet on a bucket truck that are used when the cherry picker is extended). Those are my two immediate thoughts on how you might modify the existing jack rather than resorting to a new product outright. Best of luck!

Level the table, and have a clamp system that attaches to the table to deal with the stability

After working as a Mechanical Engineer in steel, I know the stiffest machine tables have diagonal (X) bracing rather than orthogonal (H) bracing. In this application, you could use a Rossiyan (Ж) approach if your geopolitical opinion allows. For most woodworkers, this adds fitting complexity, but for me, switching to woodworking in retirement, it means more practice cutting table saw bevels.

Buy some Unistrut it comes in 7/8 and 1 1/2 depths take the wheels off the bottom use the Unistrut to bolt into the place where you took the wheels out of then widen the cart by way of the uninstall The Wheels on the Unistrut it will give you a wider base so it doesn't tip over

Adding screw down leveling feet to the cart would solve both problems. Stabilizing your cart nd adding the ability to lift the back end to match the slope of the outfeed table. Or level the outfeed table and add a way to lock the two platforms together.

what about adding ratcheting feet onto the bottom of your outfeed table to make it level. The ones I have on my table have wheels but you can lower them all the way and they will sit on rubber feet. My outfeed table is so big that it is very stable even on the wheels. Another option would be to build a table to place on top of your outfeed table that will be level. It would essentially look like a big wedge. This might be difficult to build and hard to store but it would solve your issue.

Add weight to the bottom of the cart. That should help offset being top heavy

Try turning the motorcycle jack crosswise to stop the tilting to offset top heavy ness.

Harbor feight has a lift cart than can go very low to the ground but it also lifts higher than a pickup truck bed.

Gas shock assisted collapsible table that mounts to your workbench.

Try putting screw type levelers on the legs of your larger torsion table. You can level up your out-feed table. Problem solved!

As far as adding stability and removing the side to side movement, why not add a couple clamping spots to the table and cart and clamp it to table when you get it to the desired height? Also, just level your assembly table with some shims. Problem solved. Great video brother!

Great idea, even if the result still needs tweaking. Instead of un-leveling the cart, can you level the workbench? Also, Harbor Freight sells a pretty affordable hydraulic cart that would be more stable, although I don't know how well you can finetune the height.

Suggest level you our large work table. Should be level no matter how unlevel your floor. :)

Some kitchens have a bread mixer lifter that stores the heavy machine under the counter, then lifts it into place when you want to use it. Could a similar lifter store the planer under your workbench?

Would shimming the assembly table be an option to consider. You might also be able to make the assembly table legs longer.

The issue you have with the lift is its only rated to 300. The planer plus added stuff is already 60% capacity then you add the weight of the Wood your planing then you potentially over the 300. Also it's designed for stationary no movement

Add some shims on the infeed side betwee the jack and torsion box.

I'm not sure but this seems like a lot of work for minimal return. Am I missing something? I'm new to woodworking so take this comment as me just not understanding the benefit of so much work and expense. I do think the digital readout is a great idea and will add one to my dewalt planer. Thanks for showing us/me that sometimes things just don't work out even though there is a truckload of planning and execution. Keep up the great videos as I'm a big fan of your channel, thanks for passing on all your knowledge...

I know I'm late to this video but I have a question. Is there a way to take off the table that comes with the planer? Mount the planer to the torsion box as the table so it's one large in-feed mid-table and out-feed table?

What type of glue did you use to attach the torsion boxes to the melamine? I've found that regular wood glue doesn't adhere very well.

Good ideas for upgrades but as for the problems, couldn't you level your workbench to correct for the outfeed slope? and maybe fabricate or purchase collapsible outrigger legs like a camera tripod uses for the side to side stability? Just initial ideas.

Mr. Bitner, I’m late to this video but I have a recommendation for fixing both of your issues: create a vertical extension on the out feed side of the planer that is fitted with the top side of a French cleat. Mount the receiver of the French cleat to the side of your workbench so that when the extension cleat engages the work bench the tops of the workbench and planer bed are coplanar. Then use F-clamps to cinch the top of the extension to the top of the workbench. The clamping will draw the torsion box into alignment perpendicular to the legs of your workbench. Shims may be needed if you workbench’s sides are not 90 to the surface. Finally to use, you jack up the planer and lower it into the cleat and hold it fast to the bench with the clamps, pump slightly on the hydraulic base to make it extra ridged. This should give you both a sturdy and flat connection between the two surfaces. I hope this explanation is clear enough to understand.