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Another Safety Tip: If you have a load in your front end loader and are going slowly (like we're all encouraged to do), you can STILL get into a hairy, tipover situation if a wheel drops into a pothole or climbs up onto a hidden obstacle. QUICKLY lower your loader to the ground. It will lower your center of gravity AND it will introduce lateral stability because the bucket is generally wider than the stance of the tires. Lower that loader to the ground! You might have just prevented a rollover.
If you store your tractor outside wipe any exposed hydraulic rams after each use with a rag soaked with whatever hydraulic oil your system uses. If you don't have any extra hyd oil then wipe them down with WD-40, 3-in-1, or some other light oil. I learned this in military aviation to protect landing gear struts in salt water environments. Works like a champ. 👍
Another safety tip I ALWAYS follow, is if your working alone or just using your tractor at all in general, I AWAYS make sure I have my phone with me, and FULLY charged, sometimes I’ll even bring a portable charger if I think I’ll need it, I don’t. Like being out moving brush, moving logs and stuff without my phone in case I need it
Additional info on tractor brakes... The majority of tractors only have brakes on the rear tires. If you put the tractor in 4WD, you are effectively tying front axle to the rear axle through the 4WD system. That means when you brake the rear tires, the front tires also see a braking force. If you're carrying a heavy load with the FEL, especially down hill, and you do not have adequate ballast on the rear end, the rear tires can get very light, if not come off the ground (hence GWT's insistence on proper tractor ballasting!). If you're not in 4-wheel drive, you're going to go for an uncontrolled ride until you get that FEL load down on the ground. On some bigger utility Ag tractors, they actually include automatic engagement of 4WD when the rear brakes are applied.
I operated a forklift in a yard that had slopes both ways, if the forklift leaned and one wheel came off the ground you would completely loose all braking, scary lesson, also lost all my brakes on my Husqvarna MZT61 zero turn commercial mower, it spun into one of my broken vehicles when it lost traction to one rear wheel on a slope, hydro drives can be very dangerous when you loose traction!
The problem with sliding in 4WD is you loose your steering too😜 Sometimes it’s best to just ride out a rear wheel slide if you need to turn going downhill.
When carrying a load downhill, engaging four wheel drive will allow the rear brakes to also apply stopping power to the front wheels. I added heavy duty casters to a good wooden pallet, the forks go in the pallet on one side, the bucket sits on the pallet on the other side, it saves space and is easy to spin on smooth concrete.
The rule for tire air pressure change is every 10 degrees colder you lose 1 lb of pressure. Conversely at 10 degrees warmer, you increase pressure by 1 lb. Always keep tire pressure maintained with an accurate gauge. Your belly mower could scalp with low front tire pressure! Watch out.
For the tube storage, I use a pvc pipe that fits the tube on my New Holland Workmaster 25. I cut out the top and I store my chains there and a few tools. I also use the same red gripper test plugs you were using.
My JD4044m sits under my steel building’s garage, the tube in the lift is great for a PVC half cut sliding shelf to store extra tools, etc and is waterproof. Cutting a pvc tube in half but leaving two or three inches round allows you to plug it and create a handle for sliding it out almost the entire width of the tub without falling out. It also make a great bolt holder or light bench for holding things when extended.
I've been operating tractors for thirty years. My first thought when I saw this video was, who doesn't know this. Then you demonstrated the sixth function. Well I'll be dipped. You learn something new every day
I wish I had your experience. I did not grow up on a farm, I just bought my first tractor. I would love if I had someone with so many years of knowledge to teach me first hand. These videos are as good as I get right now.
Greetings from Spain. Great pieces of advice, thank you. I store my bucket curled all the way up so the hydraulic cylinders do not get exposed to the elements. We don't get snow here and the bucket can stand a little amount of water.
Hi. Did you know that the angel of the top of a deere bucket is the same as the bottom angle? What that means is you can estimate the level of the bucket to the ground by simply eyeing the top of the bucket in relation to the ground. Hope that made sense.
Sure does, that's what the folks with a 3e need to do. Some of the Kubota buckets have a sticker on top that says "level indicator". Thanks for sharing!
I store my tractor in my shop at all times when not in use. I lower the front loader all the way to the ground & then i lower the bucket itself flat to touch the ground. i use bright orange duct tape on 2 places on my level indicator rod. Thankya for sharing this video. take care
My bucket is on a stack of pallets in a heated building. My pallet forks are stored in the bottom pallet. I can leave either one attached or easily change. I am aware of nearly all you discuss but being reminded is a good thing.
Cant tell you how many times I let newbies drive my tractors (in Low) and they are surprised the tractor goes so slow. I love their reaction to this. I have discovered a lot of people have this belief that tractors are fast. 🙂 All my tractors are in a dedicated garage with climate/humidity control. They are spoiled! 😂
As usual, thank you for this very instructive video. Nice tips for both new comers and also as a reminder before using again with a loader. SAFETY FIRST!!! Just another tip : avoid the bucket or attachment to be too much curled back when raising the load (typically dumping something onto a dump truck), this may fall back onto the tractor or worse, with a log, slip through the loading arms and guess what? get onto your legs... so take care.
Yesterday while backing my mower deck over a sinkhole, I noticed my kids coming out to see me. I didn't look over the shoulder and BOOM, the right rear tire went into the hole. I got stuck at an angle, with the front left tire spinning away. Good thing I had the loader on it to keep me from going titz up. Had to get the other tractor and the wife to help me undo that little error. I was also grateful for the seatbelt, although it wasn't critical to have.
My Kubota B2650 hangs out in my shop... on a cold Wisconsin day it can stay warm and ready to work. It's like family ya know! You're not going to just leave them sitting outside in the cold and elements... Especially if you plan to make them work 🤓
Courtney, using a pair of Channellocks on a hex head bolt!!! Your'e breaking my heart, man! I park my tractor in the shop with the bucket fully dumped which actually makes my tractor "shorter" so that I can walk between the bucket and the door.
I don't care, haha. It already took 5 hours just to shoot the darn video. I wasn't searching through the drawer for the right wrench for a five second clip. 💔😂
Never knew the loader could stop depending on how heavy a load is and how far out on the tips of the forks it is. Something I’ll keep in mind if I’m ever on a tractor with a loader. Thansk.
Ever since I switched from pin on to SSQA on my BX I leave the loader on all year round (even when mowing). So I store the bucket outside propped on a 4x4 at the back of the bucket so no water build up. I store the tractor in a lean to open shed with the loader curled
Storage for my 1025r and all of the attachments are stored in a heated and airconditioned garage, better than some of my cars. All of the attachments are stored on wheels of some sort. A pallet or a furniture dolly. Makes for easy attachment. I have some work to do when 3 new attachments arrive from Good Works. Hopefully soon.
Air pressure change avg 1psi per 10 deg change. Small volume tires will show this more than larger tires. This is why many new cars with low profile tires have nitrogen in them. It is more temperature stable. Great tips on loader use! 👍
Thanks so much for all these tips. I am looking to buy my first compact tractor and learned a ton from this and you other videos. We will be talking soon.
Courtney, another great video! With lots of great advice! Heavy Hitch toothbar is a must! I use a pallet for storage. Bucket on pallet; forks through the pallet and parked in the garage. This does a couple things for me: 1) the bottom of the pallet keeps the forks off the ground (I have always been told to use a block of wood under your equipment to help prevent rust) 2) It gives me the ability to store my bucket in the garage. 3) I’m lucky enough that my loader actually can disconnect from the forks, drive forward with the loader over my pallet forks, hook up my bucket, and be ready to go. I’d recommend double checking your clearances because every tractor, loader, and set of forks is a little different. Thanks again~ SBYD!
Good video. Really liking the new tires on the 4066R. Would love to see some action videos of those tires in multiple different terrain types. Mud, grass, dirt, turf , etc. etc.
Bucket stays outside with a chunk of wood under the bucket's heel so water runs out and tractor sits in carport with curl cylinders mostly/full retracted. About the only time the bucket (or any other implement) is on the loader is when it's being used. With the exception of the finish mower in the summer it's the same story for the 3pt implements as I'd rather take the extra few minutes to remove an attachment after using it vs. having to detach it and then attach any implements I'll be using the next time I'm on the tractor.
The plugs also save you from critter invasion especially if the loader frame lives outside...Lucky for me, my lil Jonny and its attachments sleep inside.
I had made two dolly's one for the bucket and one for the loader stand and I wheel it to the front of my garage .I was brought up on a farm driving different size tractor yes away be aware and always use caution while operating a tractor of any size.
When not in use, I roll the bucket down...estimate 15-25 degrees, so rain and snow doesn't stay in the bucket. That said, come snow season, I have a Frontier plow, so the bucket comes off. I set the bucket down so the cutting edge is a few inches lower than the heel of the bucket...again, so rain and snow don't accumulate and will drain out.
Big one for me was forgetting to have my Kubota B7500 hst in 4wd when going down a hill with a load in the bucket. Didn’t even occur to me that all of that weight in the bucket would make the rear tires light and therefore totally ineffective. I’ve only done this three times in the 19 years of having the tractor but that’s three times too many.
You have a 7500 you used 3 times, im thinking you def under utilize that machine, changing oil yearly is a must for the engine, using the machine or not, and a warm up and brake pad use for 1 hour to clear rust lub the caliper 1 x a month , unless its a collection tractor, you may be better to hire a tractor once in a blue moon, im thinking
I am happy to see safety videos such as these on here! 2 other things I would bring up would be the loader lock out and curling too far with an MSL loader. I have a John Deere 4052R with an MSL loader and my dad has a John Deere 4520 with a standard loader frame. I do not recall if his loader lock has 2 positions, but I know mine does. I have talked with many people who accidentally hit that from getting on their in a rush and then could not figure out why their bucket wouldn't move. Hahaha. Now for the MSL loader, make sure you curl back after you dump from a low position and need to raise the bucket. The MSL, when trying to lift, will try to over stroke the attachment point causing it to bind on the stop and possibly damage your loader if you apply too much force. I used to work for John Deere and that was a problem one of our customers was having with his tractor when working a manure pile. He had no idea that's what it was because he never had an MSL before. Sorry for the short story. Lol
That part about looking around/behind u is so important. My friends wife and kids were out on a bike ride and he stayed behind to feed the animals so noone was supose to be home but right when he backed out from the bulls his daughter came cycling in and shes not with us anymore. Nobodys fault just a sad accident and they happen so easy.
Sometimes when I’m trying to dig a rock out of the ground I end up with my front wheels off the ground - pushing under the edge of the rock with my back wheels. It works ... but is that causing damage? I have a JD 2025R with a 120 FEL and a heavy hitch tooth bar. When my front wheels are off the ground it sometimes allows me to grab the “lip” of the rock and pry it out of the ground. Not sure about whether the tractor can take that stress. (LOTS of big rocks on our property!)
My 2019 MF 1735 M has auto throttle. Best feature when running loader. Keeps rpm low when you are articulating but instant response when traversing. Thanks for the tips! Rob
Thank you for these tips. I’m new to a front loader on a tractor. I still feel uncoordinated but I’m getting it. I have a grapple for clearing my wooded area. Another learning curve. Any advise on weather or not I can use a double bale Speer as a set of forks for some light stuff. Great channel. Thanks
A more accurate way of calculating the tire pressure change is based on the ideal gas law. P1/T1 = P2/T2 (assumes volume is a constant) but the temperature has to be in absolute units (Rankine or Kelvin). 0 degrees Fahrenheit is equal to 460 degrees Rankine and 0 degrees Celsius is equal to 273 degrees Kelvin. The thumb rule is easier to use though and is probably accurate enough for the temperature ranges people deal with.
A little secret about storing your front bucket in the winter time I’ll take that ice all day long in the front bucket but I’d rather have that than ice build up on the cylinders the cylinder ramps because when you roll the bucket back that ice can cut into your seals and also by having your bucket rolled back should something drop and fall if it hits on that cylinder ram and puts very much of a dent or a gouge you’re screwed man this is Jim from Pennsylvania with that little 850 John Deere again all right I’ve been driving up machine since 1992
A lot of good tips on your video today! I was wondering if you sell one other item for those that have a pin on bucket? There are kits for a lot of tractors that you can buy. Sometimes it looks like you can find a real bargain on a pin on bucket and you are still ahead on savings if you get the kit. I saw somebody on a video do it and it went well, but it looked like the key was to find a welder who is really good to get the welds right.
My number one safety suggestion to any tractor owner is NEVER modify your ROPS system. That is to say, never drill into it, cut it, or alter the fasteners and adjustment hinges/bolts. If you need to mount something to it make sure to use bolt on brackets, double-sided tape, existing holes etc., but even then do so sparingly. Extra lights, a canopy, or toolboxes are all fine but heavily modifying and adding things to the ROPS can reduce its effectiveness.
The advice folks are giving of putting your tractor in 4wd for braking downhill is good BUT, that really only helps if your lack of breaking is from lack of TRACTION. The 4wd trick works great anytime if you are skidding your rear tires. Mud, snow/ice, loose material like sand or wood chips, down hill, all good reasons for 4wd to help braking. The real problem with tractor brakes is that the brakes are just TOO SMALL for all the weight. Bucket or trailer full of something heavy? GO SLOW! Never giving the weight of your tractor a chance to over power the brakes in the first place, is how you will live a long and healthy life. ;-)
I wish they sold tooth bars in Australia… But they don’t, and it costs over $1k to ship one for a subcompact tractor bucket from the USA. Guess I’ll make friends with the local machine shop.
A guy asked me move rocks and dirt, from a pasture to a fill area, he broke his foot, first bucket fill i came zipping down the hill, BOOM no brakes as I head toward a farm pond, 😏. Had to smash the bucket down and grind to a stop, I drove to his house, went ask him, Hey Roger WTF, the machine has no brakes, he said yeah thats how i broke my foot 😂, "old bastard" , lol, was joking, i finished the job in low gear 4x4 creep down the hill, so dont forget that hidden option, the bucket will stop you, if all else fails, but not the best way obviously, 🚜🙃
Great video. Everytime I watch your videos I learn something new. Thankyou. Also have a question I have a 4066m with a 170 loader, do they make a loader level indicator for that loader ?
I would like to add a speedco quick loader to my Branson subcompact tractor with loader -- but I also use a Woods 660 72" finish mower. I have seen them on quick attach on other pages, with a modification for the top attachment (basically making the lower 3 point hitch easier to attach--but requiring a pin to be placed in the upper arm. If this can be done, is it safe--I know I have the length for the PTO hook up! Mike Waters
Nice video once again! I store mine inside an 8' door and would be real interested to know the size of those R14 tires on your 4066R...regular R4's deflated to 11 psi still wouldn't fit under my door so I had to put R3's on (I thought anyway) but they are not the best in snow!
@@GoodWorksTractors yes, I've been trying to eye up size letters in a few of the videos - must have missed the ones where the size was mentioned - more watching to do I guess 😅 👍
I leave my buckets, forks, snow pusher, et al outside...I then close my FELs on all the tractors so none of the chrome cylinders are exposed to the weather inside the barns
