Developed a leak at the water pump. This video describes the replacement and things learned. Pitfalls and issues encountered. O Ring trouble with the heater return tube.
Yeah that's my problem is mine just keeps slipping I'm trying to take it off and all the videos either they I've one of the numatic tools or it just magically comes Comes off and gets put back on with no explanation
Awesome,..you showed exactly what I was looking for with the heater core tube. O'Rillieys said it was to be pressed in far enough to bolt it to the water pump itself, and I was like i dont think its gonna make it past the 45 degree turn, now i see where its supposed to bolt up to to keep it from blowing out. Thank You ! Great Job !!!
Awesome video. I was teeter-tottering on the edge of deciding if I was going to do it myself and opted not to after watching what was necessary. Thank you.
Good video! I've paid to have the water pump replaced twice on my 01 Dakota but after seeing this video I think I can do it myself now. One thing that really helped a lot was showing the application of the gasket sealant (always something I never did very well) but I think I can mange now. Thanks for the video! James
Thanks for the Video , it helped me a quite a bit one thing i would suggest is showing people that the Bolts for the water Pump have to go back exactly the same way they came out. I changed my water pump sat 01 07 17 ,
This is a great video. I plan to drive my '02 Dakota on a trip 1000 miles away in a few months and I think my water pump has a full 180,000 miles on it. I've had a water pump fail on me in the past with another vehicle with far fewer miles, and this seems like a surprisingly easy project to protect me against a potentially expensive and inconvenient repair. It should also help that I run with an efan so I have plenty of space and no clutch fan to worry about.
No, we went to take it out and everything was so clean that it must be a replacement water pump. I ended up keeping the pump (I plan to replace the engine with a v8 one day) and ended up replacing the thermostat.
Another good way to remove the fan clutch is to strap a chain vise grip wrench around the water pump pulley after you remove belt to hold it still while you get a large wrench on the nut
Your old tube was broke that wolverine has a groove that goes around the tube just like the replacement one so part of your tube was broke off in your old water pump it actually snaps in with the oil ring
Leave the fan off. I live in South Texas. And I haven't overheated once since I took off my fan clutch assembly. I took it off about two years ago. It's an unnecessary noisy hastle.
One thing to add about the steel tube and o-ring assembly for your viewers, DO NOT push the tube and o-ring all the way into the pump! If you do and the o-ring goes past the machined surface it can get caught inside the pump and you'll most likely tear it or pull it off the tube completely trying to pull the tube back out. Then you get to replace the o-ring again.
I just installed a Dorman replacement tube. It's shaped with a lip to help prevent that from happening. Also, I installed mine with its retaining bolt for the integrated bracket loose in the block ... so that I _couldn't_ push the tube in too far. As I know you're aware, the bracket welded to the tube would then hit the bolt and the tube stops getting inserted yada yada.
sometimes you get lucky with breaking the the fan off loose off of the pump while the belt is on just have to make sure you going reverse since most fans are reverse thread I know they can be a pain in the butt to get off at time if taken off whole Like you did in the video especially if you don't have a vice laying around anyways looks like a easy pump to replace thanks for the video now off to replace my friends pump
Morning,I think you'd find the small piece that is missing off the end of the original tube below the rubber sealing ring probably sheared off during removal . I removed this tube from my old original water pump on my 1999 Dakota and it looked the same as your new one with the little extension below the rubber ring intact. It is the original water pump. The new or replacement water pumps could be threaded where that tube goes into the water pump body and a nipple provided as in the larger outlet thus eliminating the need for that Mickey Mouse Tube. Food for thought... I removed that tube from my old water pump using a mini grinder very carefully notching the body of the water pump on each side of the tube and then using a small chisel snapped the piece out so it exposed the tube otherwise I was in to about 25 bucks for a new tube. Cleaned the tube up and repainted it. Installed the new seal then after installing the new water pump I applied a thin layer of silicone to the end of the tube and a little around the new seal to help lubricate it. Inserted the tube into the hole, lined up the bracket installed & tightened the bolt. Worked great with no leaks...
Thanks for the useful video. I have a question dude which aftermarket brand we should buy because there are a lot of names in the market any recommendations please
Ok. I've watched your informative video and have the pump removed from the engine with the fan and pipe attached, but cannot figure out how to wrangle it out of the engine compartment without removing the coolant reservoir. How did you do it? Thanks! (2000 Dakota 3.9L)
+Average Guys Garage Yes, shroud removed. I gave up struggling with it and I ended up removing the reservoir. It wasn't a big deal. Thanks for everything. Repair was a success!
You don't need all that RTV on the pump, the stock gasket works just fine and you won't have to worry about RTV chunks in your cooling system. Other than that great video.
+trackerrrr Thanks for the comment. Plus if you use the stock gasket then you don’t have to wait for the RTV to set up. And you can be back on the road sooner
I have the same squeak on my 03 dakota 3.9L. Have u diagnose wher the noise is coming from when u first started the engine? I changed the belt aligned all the pulley check the a/c clutch. My water pump is good. I couldn’t figure out where is the squeaking coming from.
i am sooo worried that i will break off a bolt. my 94 dakota needs a new pump....is there a way to guarantee not to break a bolt? tips or tricks? thank you so much and have a great weekend
Kevin S. Some WD-40 goes a long way to easing out the tough bolts. Let it penetrate for a while...an hour. Water pump bolts usually aren't that tough. Let us know how it goes.
Thanks; i ended up paying a mechanic; he also replaced my belt tensioner....now i'm having a leak of red fluid on the ground roughly in the same area.....front seal tranny?
Thanks Jim! For it to simply be an easily replaceable hose would be wonderful. i met a young mechanic that does work on the side; i'll have him check those hoses. Thanks again
Check it out...couple months ago I went change the pump had it all taken out but got to that heater tube and had no idea what to do with it. I needed the truck running the next day so I just put the old pump back in with a new seal...that worked but now it's leaking again most likely now around the shaft..so now I'll take it out again but now I know what to do with that heater return tube...thanks
Oh yea... gotta make sure you keep that O Ring in good shape. When I replaced my Power Steering Pump, I didn't even notice that little bitty O Ring on the Heater Return. Gotta get a new engine now. Coolant sprayed out while I was doing 70 on the interstate. Engine shut itself down. Compression tests came up around 20 on all cylinders. That dang little 5 cent O Ring can break your engine
Average Guys Garage - I just replaced the thermostat, a bad frost plug, and flushed out the old coolant. STILL heating up. Do you suppose it's a bad water pump?
+slytherin I found this water pump in a 2000 jeep cherokee w/ 4.0 L6, the bearings n seal were still great. But the pump wasn't moving the coolant. EZest way to check it, is to wait til the engine's cool, take one hose off the heater core, have an asst start the engine, 2secs shut it off, either the hose or the port of the heater core should shoot antifreeze. Don't get any in your mouth or eyes! In 30yrs this is the 1st one I found where the fins were GONE from the impeller!
how the he double hockey sticks did you get the dang fan clutch off.. I have the tool it's not moving, and yes I'm going counter clockwise (left) 97 dodge Dakota sport
I used a small bar as a punch and with a hammer, hit down on a leftward portion of the nut. After a few hits it did begin to rotate a little and then spun easily with fingers. "As seen elsewhere on RU-vid."
I have an overheating problem on my kota .. I change the sensor and the thermostat and now it overheating on idle and I can smell the radiator ... also my heater core is out and I say that cuz smokes comes out of the vents. my question is could the overheating problem be because of the heater core or something else like the water pump not circulating ..? BTW there's no leaks
+Mario Murillo In my experience, no matter what else I did to correct overheating, I end up replacing the water pump. When the engine overheats you are in danger of a gasket going on either the water pump or head. The water pump is a cheaper alternative that head gaskets. I would try the water pump first.
I had the problem you had and the only way out is switching it out for a new heater core and when they pull it out check your ac core to I didn't change my ac one and it had a leak
You may have a defective thermostat even though it's brand new,that does happen sometimes. Or else you put the new thermostat in backwards,that's easy to do if you're rushing.
That only works if the nut isn't rusted to the water pump. I had to pull my fan off after the pump was off with a pipe wrench and some long screwdrivers to hold the impeller in place. My truck's from New York (i.e. lots of salt in winter and rust) so it put up a fight.
trackerrrr Soak the treads in PB blaster or wd-40, also with the correct fan clutch removal tool and a rubber mallet it should come off regardless of where the vehicle is from. I would also recommend putting anti-seize compound on the treads so that doesn’t happen.
So do you let the silicone blue dry before you put it back on or put it back on while the silicone blue is still wet and then let it dry? I'm kinda confused.
+Naxarine It just slipped back on. I checked to make sure the clamp was then covering the pump and that the screw that tightens the clamp was at a good angle to tighten.
i do too, but i didnt have any of the right size on hand, FYI i ended up taking off the alternator and compressor, not i gotta go blow money getting the AC system vaced and charged
I put lil on the pump then gasket then put pump on have this guy that has just a small little shop right down the road he is hands-down the best mechanic I've ever met he's probably 50 some years old I have took some crazy s*** to this man and he is figured it out took him a Mustang one time with no motor in it boxes of Parts where somebody has started taking the damn thing apart brought him a used motor out of a Mark 7 and he made that thing look like it it just rolled off the assembly line so I was doing a water pump on the same Mustang and he showed me what to do and he only put ceiling a little bit on the pump and then the gasket never between the block and the gasket I would think if you use just the ceiling it's got little bumps in it you know cuz it's not perfectly flat and smooth and yeah I get that it'll squished but once ceiling gets hot so many times a breaks down after a year or two it's still there but it's going to leave a void somewhere so it's not going to last as long but if you put it on and then while it's still wet I have that gasket in when you tighten it to the motor it's going to flatten it out perfect
I'm hoping mine is still usable. There was a new o-ring included with the new water pump. My problem is the bypass hose at the top, I can't get it to fit over the nipple on the new water pump! $*#&@^$&. I might need to removed the AC and alternator brackets in order to replace that hose.
@@JhanJo oh like the main inlet hose that one is a pain in the a** to change i had to change it on mine too mine seems work good make sure when u change it while the water off before you go to put new one on will ruin the gasket and get thread sealant for threads and not thread locker has to be sealant i had changed mine year ago and month ago but I think that was my problem was thread locker and I used permatex gasket maker I think better off with the paper gasket and make sure u torque them properly 30 foot lbs its not very tight so it is easy to over tighten the bolts and good luck with it not very hard i think I finished it in less than 2 hours
@@miker5700 I figured out my problem. the nipple on the new water pump is 5mm longer than the old one. When trying to slide it up into the bypass hose the factory hose clamp was in the way. I removed the hose clamp and the new pump seated properly. New hose clamp is a typical one that tightens with a screwdriver. Question, you used thread sealer for your bolts? My manual didn't say anything about using thread locker or sealant. Fortunately I have a torque wrench (from work) so I have the bolts tightened properly. I did use gasket sealant (not RTV) on the machined surface of the new pump and a paper gasket that came with the new pump. I have it mostly back together but haven't leak tested yet. Thanks!
@@JhanJo yes u want to use thread sealant I guess always use it on water pumps because antifreeze travels through the motor and some of the bolts go through the channels so if theads not sealed antifreeze might come out where the bolt head is when u took bolts out there shouldve been some that started leaking antifreeze out of bolt hole the thread sealant is by the thread locker and is a white paste kind only like 7$ a tube
So with the dakota 3.9L for this year, the best way is to just let it idle on a flat surface with the radiator cap off. Let it run with cap off until the engine is fully warmed up and there are no bubbles. These trucks (at least 3.9, 5.2 and 5.9L gas )do not have a bleed valve. Just gotta make sure there are no bubbles coming out from the radiator cap.
Not trying to diss ur video, but I see you omitted to show how to remove the fan and fan clutch from the water pump, Oh my bad I guess you did it by OSMOSIS... thanks for nothing actually. .
+David Paine Thanks for watching. At 5 minutes in we talk about having to use a pipe wrench to hold the shaft of the water pump still while loosening the nut. After doing it that way, the hard way, i learned about a chain that can be used around the water pump pulley to hold it in place while it is still in the truck. In the future I will be using that tool to remove the fan before removing the water pump. Thanks again for your comment.
