great video. A couple of things for those of us lacking tools and a garage. The puller can be substitude by turning the rotor around and using it, as a puller. An electric angle grinder works too along with a metal chisel. Any advice on getting the outer race out of the shaft assembly? Mine seems stuck and I'm not about to start pounding it....Why was the speed sensor removed?I don't have a press so taking axle to a local mechanic and hopefully I will not be raked over to coals.Thanks for the step by step
Thanks for the video. I was having a helluva time getting that inner race off and was cutting into the retainer bracket. I didn't even think to angle the cutoff wheel at an angle like that.
The black wire is not a speed sensor for the speedometer, but for the ABS braking system ;-) It's not necessary to remove the sensor. The new bearing will be greased better if the outer race is taken off. It comes off easy.
I wish I had a bearing press, great video! I had one side cooperate taking the bearing race out, the other side I had to get creative.. Too late to grind and stuff so Ill have to tackle that tomorrow.
Great video. I will stress to notice how old bearing came out. Manufacturers label facing toward wheel or you when you pull it out. I knew to do this but still put it on backwards. Couldn’t believe it. So stupid lol. Anyway some folks at store and others say it doesn’t matter. I cut f/up one off and bought another new one and put it on correctly. I suspect some that say they did it exactly like this video and now have noise prolly put it on backwards. It’s not hard mistake to make. Also I didn’t have a press, nor was I gonna buy one and take it back. Shops around here wanna charge a Normal vehicle repair job around 600$ for 10 minute press job for both axles. BS I know. Anyway saw a video and the guy had a pipe and slammed it a few times and was done. I bought a 12” pipe, think it was 1 or 1 1/2 diameter, (matched pipe with bearing at store) and four or five whacks and it was pressed. Make sure the pipe doesn’t have any residue inside it or it will come off and prolly get into bearings. I was replacing rotors so I put old ones on backwards. That way I could stand axle vertical when I was sliding/slamming pipe/bearing, and used it knocking axle out with hammer.
Differential oil lubes the bearing you don't initially grease them, petroleum jelly that will melt is just fine. Actually it's plugging up the bearing passage for the 90w to get in there.
First time seeing a rear greased axel bearing??? But you got it all done, no more contamination! The retainer plate substitute seems thinner than the OEM, check it after a while.
It's important to note that you should NOT reuse the four nuts holding the shaft and seals to the axle. Even cleaning the nuts, using locktite can still allow the four nuts to vibrate loose. The nuts are inexpensive through after market like Dorman. The nuts have been discontinued according to Jeep. So for the few extra dollars it costs do NOT reuse the retainer nuts. On the new nuts and retainer bolts it's a good idea to use the locktite.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. Thanks for the correction Svein - maybe I can dub the audio over ;) Edgar, the only thing I can think of for the rubbing sound is: 1) the bearing was bad 2) the bearing wasn't greased properly 3) the differential is low on fluid 4) another bearing or component of the vehicle is making the sound
Hi I was wondering I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee quad drive. can I replace my axle the same way. I was told I couldn't I have to get the part from the dealer and drain my rear release a pin?
great video. my childs 04 had the axle come out and start rubbing the rotor against the caliper bracket actually wore 1/4-1/2 inch off of it. have taken the axle out and am doing this procedure tomorrow. luck has it my father in law has a press. thx joel
note: if you pull the axle on a dana 35 44 and no axle oil flows out then do the other side too because the oil is what keeps those bearings lubed. u should do both sides anyway many reasons but cost is lower if u get the sets. plus u know they came from same manufacturer and u know both are good. and done
If this is a gear oil lubricated bearing why are you packing that new bearing with grease? That grease would in turn break down in that gear oil and contaminate the whole axle.
I’ve heard to always use new locking nuts ! They don’t come w most kits. So be sure to get them, 14 mm wrench removed them! Not sure w mm nut size! Also if you want to know which differential you have it is stamped on the fill plug! You may have said this … just good info would’ve saved me hrs of cross reference every part!
Your need to put Mopar diff fluid additive in the rear diff orr you'll burn it up. These are limited slip differentials. Mix it in with your gear oil and have it in level ground and add it till it starts pouring out.
probably didn't need to pack bearing that is soaked it gear oil but just an fyi you pack a bearing by taking a small amount of grease in the palm of one hand and slap the bearing into the grease until grease oozes out the top of the bearing and rotate it until it is full ... aside from that great video
Or just drag the bearing up your palm repeatedly, grabbing a bit more grease with each pull until you see it come out the other side. A mechanic taught me that back when I was a kid.
thank you, I have liked to see how its put evrey thing back in place I am a begginer in this things ja ja ja . I got WJ and I started to lift it 6 inches and Ihave this questions : Which Cherokee has the strongest Transmission ?? for off road purposes ?? . Sorry for my English
It has to go back in (all of the way). Try turning the axle so the “teeth” at the end you are inserting will mesh up with the teeth in the differential. If it can out relatively easy, it should go in easy (with some turning of the axle). If you absolutely can’t get it in, you may have an issue with the rear differential and may need to remove the differential cover (which will necessitate change the fluid, but it should be done around every 30,000 miles anyway.
Furthermore, the rear differential cover is visible at 20:42 in the video (when I begin to top off the fluid lost from removing the axle). The bolt (visible in the video) all around the edge would need to be removed. You would use silicone to re-seal it when re-installing the cover. Again, this is if you can’t get the axle completely in and need to remove the cover to inspect the “guts” of the differential for a problem or obstruction. Otherwise, if just changing the fluid, it is easier to pump out the old fluid (with a transfer pump) and pump in new fluid.
I'm about to do this same job on my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L. Do the 4.7 and the 4.0 share the same rear end? If so, this video will be amazingly helpful!
I Noticed you put the race on the bearing. That would be backwards than how it comes from factory. Is that a better means of doing that install? Did it hold up good?
just had this done for 2nd time same wheel 1st time in jan 20 20 told seal leaking was caused by my axel rod that was not replaced 1st time dif oil leaked onto drum and had burning smell also 2nd time car sounded like i was dragging something.new axelrod now so far so good 100miles your opinion please.have 2001 jgc with 144000 miles
Edgar, might be a bad bearing, u joint, or an issue with your brakes. Try jacking up the rear end with the truck in neutral (make sure the front tires are chocked good and that you are on a level surface!!!!!!!!). With the rear end jacked up, try turning the rear wheels. If a bearing is bad, you should hear and/or feel a "growl."
I thought this was an excellent video. I've normally only owned a Chevy (2 Camaros and a Cutlass) Just recently bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 1999 185k miles, for 2500 Tax, Title and License. So, i hear this noise from the rear driver's side wheel. Whirring noise. Knowing bearings i knew it had to be them, no leaks no smoke. Took it to Les Schwab they said its either the bearings or a bent axle. Went to go buy bearings and he said they're in the axle, now from watching your video i understand what he said. LOL thank you. It sounds like bearings don't have any, or very little grease in them, whirring kind of noise, gets faster with speed and slower with deceleration, under 10mp cant hear it at all. slowing or speeding up. Any ideas would be greatly appreciative. A guy i know and trust said 800 or so, with the a/c problem im having. think that's a good price? im thinking it might be low on fluid?
Why not just replace the entire hub assembly? Opposed to sawing the bearing off ? I live in northern Michigan and if I were to go through all that trouble on a vehicle with over 100k miles it'd make sense to replace everything
Great walk through... done this on many vehicles myself and I couldn't have done it better. Off topic what rotors are you running, stillen? Any who I'm 99wj01tj on jeep forum. And to Edgar if its not the bearing making g the sound it may be u joint on the driveshaft. When they go bad they him too.
I dont get "packing" the bearing as its lubed by gear oil. Also, the diff may need special additive or oil for the limited slip or locker depending on which 4x4 system the vehicle has.
Nice video...did you open the differential to remove the C-clip before you pulled out the axle or this model doesn't have C-clip? Really appreciate it if you could give me some info., thanks!
After replacing Wheel bearing.....the bearing/race failed to keep the axle in place. Brake caliper bracket started rubbing rotor which in turn locket up the wheel. The race bearings and other components were fully seated. Any suggestions on how to prevent this?
off topic a bit , i have a 99 jeep grand cherokee limited, full time 4 wheel, started making noise on the freeway this am, told it might be wheel bearing, when i jack up the front with it in park should the front wheels spin easy
Very good video, and great explanation. How did you clean the inside if the axel shaft? Also, did you have any difficulty with the wonky stud plate that came with your kit? Did they supply the fasteners?
Hi My garage has change mine twice now, same nearside wheel, 1st one lasted 2 weeks the second about a month and its still leaking, any ideas whats going on, even he is stumped
@@r.weaver3769 i had mine done in jan this year then again last week told my axelrod cut into seal. since been replaced.wasnt cheep.thats when i found out what jeep stands for Empty Every Pocket.
I have to replace my bearing for a 3rd time. somehow the hub starts off with a little play on it and gets worse as time goes on. What is it that holds the hub in place and stops it from moving? Garage says it maybe the shaft is worn and bearing is not holding tight anymore. Thoughts?
I am having the same problem. I replaced bearings on both axles. The passenger side held but the drivers side did not hold. Within one week of driving the bearings failed. This is the second time in two months. Did you find the problem and the solution?
@@mdew24 i got about 5000 miles on my driver rear just have to redo now paid a shop 3 00 to fix them i tenn ,,gurr they used a torch to cut off an messed up the axle ,,now 306 for new part again 11.24 18
Hey flash....The noises are gone...now the only thing I notice is a wobble when being driven on flat road...both sides!!!it's driving me crazy...did you have to hit the axles with slide hammer when putting back in?
I just bought shafts from a guy who chose to go a different route. The seal and bearings were recently redone and were installed for only 100 miles. Do you think the outer race of the bearing is reusable because the outer race is not included.
Let him do it. That’s about how much the parts cost. I’m doing both sides though. Think the kits that have plate, bearing w/ races and seal is around $160.
@@peterdahlstrom3632kool. Thanks. Where are buying the kit from? Online?... Do share the link if you have any recommendation for me. Appreciate your reply.
@@peterdahlstrom3632 Thank for your reply. So I was making a purchase at the advanced auto part. Wanted to share the link with you to see if I need anything in addition to this. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crown-auto-jeep-replacmnt-axle-shaft-bearing-kit-left-or-right-rear-dana-35-dana-44-ball-bearing-incl-seals-single-d35wjabk/11740134-P?searchTerm=wheel+seals
That’s it. I changed my rear pads cause one side was wet with oil from leaky seal. I also adjusted parking brake pads and replaced both rotors. I also didn’t use a press. Just got a pipe and slammed the collar down. 5 hits or so. Worked great
I have to do the same work on my Liberty 2004 in the rear end. Anyone has done it for a liberty?? Is it the same process? Do you always need to cut the bearing to get it out??? Thanks in advance
When you put the axle back in did you have to press or use the sliding hammer to push the bearing back into the housing? I can't imagine the bearing retainer is used to pull it back into the housing? Thanks.
rmontez No, the completed axle just slides right in. Once it is almost all the way in, you may have to jiggle it or rotate it slightly so the splines at the end of the axle line up (but it should not take any significant force to push it back in).
I habe a problem with my 2002 Grand Cherokee. When I try to reverse, my right tire locks up. It's ok in forward. I drove it home, 200 miles with no issue. just no back travel. pulled the rotor disc, put the tire back on, and problem still there. Eliminated tje brakes. Any suggestions... I'm at a loss...
We heat bearings in a oven at 250 for heavy equipment still expands a thousandth an inch for every inch of diameter not sure if the bearing is big enough for that tho
Sorry but that is incorrect it will not dissolve with any predictability (put a gob of grease into some gear oil and see how long it takes to dissolve). When I was an apprentice I used too do this as well but my mentor set me straight. A bearing lubricated by gear oil should only have a coating of gear oil before putting it in. You never really packed it properly so the grease you did put on will prevent the proper lubricant from getting to the rollers and seal. lar4305
2000 jeep cherokee xj Will a broken rear leaf spring shackle bracket cause the rear end to be a little off enough to where you can hear a noise in the rear end? I have replace Ring Gear and what i call cluster bearing with what i know was a good set up out of my other Jeep with the same ratio. New axle bearing, no help. I thought well has to be pinion bearing then i thought will that broken shackle bearing cause that rear end to be off centered and make a noise???
Anyone can help? First time i changed It was leaking but bearings were ok, It lasted for a week, thought maybe i put something wrong or the part was not good. So i did It again lasted for 5 months and now again leaking the same wheel, bearings are ok though its always the seal?
my 2002 laredo 4.7 ho has bad seals in the right rear, im gonna replace it mysepf but i have a few questions, what bearing grease did you use, and how do i find out what gear oil to use? also im getting some move to the left (rear end shifts left) when accelerating, and back to the right when i let off the gas, much more noticable at highway speeds, have i blow my diff? how do i know if i have a limited slip diff? and if the not a blow rear ens could it be a bad control arm or somwthing of thay nature, thanks to anyway who can respond and help
John Aranjo mine shifts slightly as well when accelerating and decelerating, almost feels like its steering slightly from the rear. I crawled under my WJ and found one of the side bushings on the upper Y link severely worn and believe that's my issue. Crawl under yours and grab every link with a bushing/ball joint and try to see if it moves any. There should be nearly no movement by hand.
Show me the tool you would use to press a bearing off.. And show me a press that can fit a 3 foot long axle shaft upside down. No! You press bearings on. They are always cut off. Trying to press them off will only bend your axle shaft and make it useless.
