Dude this helps so much, I didn’t know about the valve adjustments. Mine has been running bad lately. When I start it the motor wants to run wide open so I have to choke it just to get it in gear. I think rebuilding the carb and adjusting the valves might fix these problems I hope.
I glad this helped! I have to post the next video but the issue I am having now is that the pilot jets keep plugging so it will only run on choke or at full throttle. Adjusting the valves though definitely improved idle and hesitation off of idle. Thanks for watching!
@@greenhillgarage ok since I wrote to you last time I rebuilt the bottom of the carburetor and adjusted the valves and that solved the problems I was having. Now it starts without any problems and idles perfect. I also noticed it has a lot of power now compared to how it was before. Thanks again man the video helped me out a lot.
@@diegaspumper8501 I am so glad this helped! Cleaning a carb throughly works in most cases, especially if the engine ran before and sat for a few months. If you can, avoid the ethanol fuels. My local Maverick gas station sells clear ethanol free gas for just a few cents more per gallon. It saves you the hassle of cleaning your carb every couple of months. Thanks!
I had to cover the bottom of the seat holes with sheet metal, the rats loved taking the foam for a nest. I don't have any cats. I believe I took the cover off the passenger side and was able to set TDC. To adjust the valves I made some wheel cover s from a plastic containment drum and cut in half a d bolted to frame look perfect and work great.
We don't have any rats, but we do have mice. Those mice seem to build nests in every piece of equipment I get. Fortunately, we have 2 good mousers on the place, although the solid gray one is rather lazy. I thought about pulling the passenger side cover, but didn't have time. Thanks for watching!
I never knew there were two adjustments on top of the carburetor! I have a new fuel pump, and carb rebuild kit. It idles up and down sporadically and then dies anything past half throttle.I think adjusting the screws will help a ton!
Have you checked the blow-by of your motor yet? Just asking because my kawasaki Mule was doing the same thing and it was because the piston rings were worn out. Hopefully it's just the carb, but if it isn't than I have a new video to show you how to tell. Thanks for watching!
@@greenhillgarage it’s doing better now since I adjusted those screws they were screwed really far out and I moved one of the gaskets that was on the wrong side of the carb.
@@alexmozingo8972 That is great to hear! If you are replacing the fuel pump, then be sure to use a stock replacement and not a clicker type pump. The clicker pump pushes to much fuel and washes out your cylinder walls.
@@greenhillgarage where can I get a stock pump? The clicker type is on there now. I’m working on this mule for a neighbor. The clicking one seems to be working fine.
@@alexmozingo8972 I got mine off of Ebay. It was only $15 for my 3010 Mule. I am not sure what model yours is, but I saw other models fuel pumps listed for similar prices. My Mule had the clicker pump on it for a few years before I got it and it worked ok until I got it, then in a matter of weeks whatever self-regulation it had quit, and it fuel washed the pistons and cylinder bores.
i just rebuilt the carbs on a non-running mule 3010. it starts up and idles fine now. the problem i have is, if you just tap the gas, the idle runs away. i have to floor it to get the idle to drop back down.
Could be a sticky butterfly on the throttle. I am guessing that by just tapping it, it is getting stuck partially open but is able to slam closed when you floor it. It could also be it's running a bit rich, but I would check the throttle first since that seems to be the most direct correlation. Hope this helps!
How often should we have to adjust the valves? New carb, fuel filter, after adjusting valves, ran great, a lot more power etc. But after a couple days it won’t idle without full choke & wont start. We adjust the valves, have 1 valve that seems to stick, but after adjustment runs & idles great again. But after a couple runs it acts up again & wont idle/start. Any suggestions?
Do you see a heavy burnt oil residue under the valve covers? sometimes the sludge buildup in the motor means it needs cleaned. change the oil and filter and use Seafoam in the oil. It is not a gimmick and I have had great success with it. after about 4 weeks change the oil and add a half a pint of ATF transmission fluid and the rest 10w30. this should solve your valve sticking. The valve springs could also be worn and weak. check these if the seafoam and ATF doesn't work. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
On my mule the holes where the adjust ment screws on the carburetor have these brass plug looking things with a pinhole in them. It doesn't look like they come out but I dont seem to have adjustment screws. Never seen something like this before
I tried a replacement carburetor, and it was horrible. It had those brass covers on it. You can either drill or punch the covers off to adjust the screws. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
There has to be something off with the timing. Are you certain that you installed the key for the flywheel the right way? it is an offset kay, so that would mess with timing. I assume it has compression, but even if it had low compression, it should pop.
Just adjusted the valves going off the flywheel and making sure each cylinder was at TDC. Making lots of clanking noise. Adjusted valves while cold. Any ideas
Are you sure the clanking noise is valve train? The most I have ever heard was tapping, so unless your motor has jumped timing (very unlikely unless you disassembled it), it might be rod bearings.
@@greenhillgarage it ran alright before I messed with it. It did pop a pushrod out the other day before I tinkered with the adjustments, it ran fair after I put the rod in place
@@greenhillgarage it ran alright before I messed with it. It did pop a pushrod out the other day before I tinkered with the adjustments, it ran fair after I put the rod in place
@@tylersgoatinsurance7081 These little motors have very soft valve springs, so I can see how it lost a push rod. Check to be sure that the rod is perfectly straight or it will make a pretty bad sound since it won't stay in adjustment with a bent push rod
Front cylinder is number 1. Looking at the engine from the passenger side, number 1 will be on the right. Since the flywheel only has one keyway it only goes on one way. It sends a spark every time the pistons reach TDC. So there is a wasted spark in the power cycle for each piston. This makes it much easier to work on than a distributor since the CDI does all the timing adjustments as the RPM changes. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I loosened the governor so that I could get more power for going off road in 4x4. This particular governor just sits in one place at idle so that when you disconnect it, it doesn't move. It only moves when the Mule is running. Loosening the nut allows the gas pedal to have total control of the throttle. To reconnect the governor, shut off the Mule, leave the gas pedal alone, and tighten the nut down. Hope this answers your questions! Thanks for watching!
Just did a carb rebuild and now I'm getting fuel from the vent line with the fuel pump. If I gravity feed fuel it runs, but not great. I need to adjust the governor after I fix this I think. Any ideas on that? Too much fuel pressure maybe??? Thanks
Vent line means the float isn't closing. Could be too much pressure but I would check float height first. I can't remember if it is adjustable. if the float is fine then try tapping the carb to see if the float is stuck. did you replace your needle valve? These wear out so replace it even if it looks fine. If all else fails, then the fuel pump may be the culprit. these pumps are internally regulated and the spring inside the pump can wear out causing higher fuel pressure. The Kawasaki Mule carbs only need 2-3lbs of fuel pressure and more will cause them to flood since they have small floats. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@greenhillgarage absolutely correct. Valve shifted and got stuck. Float is non adjustable BTW. Pump is putting out 3psi. Got that fixed and now it dies everytime I give throttle. I don't understand the governor on this thing. Never worked on one with a governor before. It may be that.....? I also adjusted the valves again. I thought the rear cylinder was #1 from a video I saw. After some research I found the manual says the front is! It idles low and will run if I spray carb clean into the air box though. I'm so confused! 😡
@@GSLBoling1979 that is a blocked pilot jet, the pilots are very small so they clog easily. Since it runs with carb cleaner that means that your carb is running lean. Also, check for vacuum leaks near the back of the carb and intake manifold. One of the bolts on the intake goes directly into the manifold and if it is loose you will have a vacuum leak. If the pilot jet looks clean and there are no leaks, then you will need to make the pilot jets larger. I had a set of gunsmithing drill bits that were able to make very small increases in size. Let me know what happens!
@@greenhillgarage I changed the jets back to the originals after cleaning. It did run. I had a terrible time trying to get it to idle between adjusting the idle/air screws, throttle cable, governor arm, worn springs, and throttle/governor adjustment screw..... Finally got it idling and ran around the block!!!! 😁 Then it died and will not start again. 😂 I'm convinced the governor is ONE of the issues, but I don't know how to set it or how it even works. Guess I'll do some research tonight. 😡
@@GSLBoling1979 I had issues with the aftermarket jets and aftermarket carburetor I tried. Stick with the original. The governor should only control the speed of the engine so I don't think that is the problem. You can disable the governor by removing the bolt where the governor shaft comes out of the transmission.
Possible lean idle screws, if adjusting the two brass screws on the top of the carb don't make it idle, then the passage ways are clogged and the carb will need cleaned. Do not leave it idling with the choke for any long period of time because it will wash the cylinder walls with gas and ruin the piston rings. I found this out the hard way, but we are rebuilding the motor so we will have a video soon on the full rebuild. Hope this helps, if you want, I can make a carb teardown and assembly video so you can clean yours. Thanks for watching!
