Kawasaki Mule Clutch Rebuild-Creeps Forward In Gear/Stalls When Stopped-(Clutch Rebuild) 

TO ALL WHO ARE HAVING TROUBLE DISASSEBLING THE CLUTCH: I was unable to unscrew the aluminum piece on my clutch after lubrication, heat, and brute force. Here is how I did it: 1-1/16" 3/4 drive 12pt socket. Cut two slots 180 degrees out from each other so that when you place it over the shaft it fits over whatever you use for the pin to go through the shaft holes. I used a 1/4" impact driver extension bit (good grade tough material). Hold the aluminum threaded hub with a gloved hand or clamp it some kind of way, I just held it. Be sure that since you are turning the shaft the impact is turning clockwise. Give it hell. 3/4 impact level hell. Good luck to you all and many thanks to @atvrepairsandmore2482 for taking the time to share your work!

Good video man. Helped me get all the little pieces in

Took a look at & just cleaned everything up. Spring “felt” good, no burrs or unusual wear apparent. I did clean up throttle body, re routed PVC and all appears good to go for now.👍

Thank you for this. I have a 2012 that was stolen two months after I got it for our small farm. Well, just recently recovered it & cosmetically it’s very rough but @ 867 hours it runs great. The only apparent issue was it needed a battery, done, and it cranked right up and ran smoother than a baby’s butt. So, mechanically it appears solid except had the same issue as you describe and I believe,🤞 I can de burr, clean up/ polish bearing surfaces, etc. and it should do what its new purpose will be and that is to ride my Grandson around our small farm. Again, 😊 thank you. Oh, OK I’m gonna OCD nerd out (& apologize in advance) a 10mm socket/bolt head, 99.9/10th’s % will be a 6mm bolt with a “avg”, torque value of 90 inch lbs. LOL, when a kid & when school let out, I put new bikes together for a Yamaha dealer. Loved & learned off road going FAST & ended up owning a multiline motorcycle dealership and racing Desert & MX, plus a few Hare & Hounds for years.

Thank You for information and advice, seems to be a easy fix now

I greet you! I wanted to change those pads myself on a 2007 polaris sportsman 500 but couldn't get that part to thread. I gave even with heat and nothing. I gave up because he wanted to break up with acx with everything.

Great video. Is there any way to know if just a spring could be weak? I’ve got a 3010 mule. Clutch seems to work good engages and disengages with no noise and pulls good. It will sometimes just barely drag the belt and cause a hard shift. I can depress the spring with almost finger pressure and even with idle all the way down it’ll sometimes still barely drag the belt. Thanks

I have a 2005 3010 and the primary clutch was stuck fully in engaged, would not release. Only 300 hrs on the clock so should not need rebuilt. I was wondering if I could rub some grease on the fly weights or the rollers that they slide on? I first thought of silicone spray but afraid it might get on the friction surface of the belt or pulleys. Any other thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Do you know where you got your clutch puller from I’m having a hard time finding one with the correct threads

Will a c clamp push the rollers in place ??

How did you take it out. Did you use special tools?

What's up with the DeWalt battery on the Hercules ratchet

I rebuilt my 4010 clutch and installed new spring and it engages while idling sometimes, is there a shim kit for spring? the spring seams a little weak, the new spring is better but not enough

Vă salut! Am vrut să schimb și eu acele pastile la un polaris sportsman 500 din 2007 dar nu am putut reuși să desfiletez acea piesă. Am dat chiar și cu căldură și nimic. Am renunțat că vroia să se desfacă cu acx cu tot.

How can I pull the clutch out if the thread inside stripped when I try tu pull it whit a different bolt it's a mule 4010 gasoline engine

WHERE DID YOU GET THE CLUTCH REBUILD KIT FROM

How do I get this piece off of the engine?

I’m more of a guy who presses things not beat them together