If you're having a problem putting the blower back I have an easy fix. You will need a five quart oil bottle or a round gallon plastic bottle. Cut out the side 5" X 10". Slide the plastic halfway in the backside of the opening, now slide the motor in and pull out the plaatic.
I had to combine this along with removing two screws in order to get some wiggle room that allowed me to pop the blower motor back in. Ty for the suggestion on the archaic combination of tools to get that back screw out.
Nearly 4 years later, your video has again saved the day for this frustrated Alaskan Hyundai owner (loaner car for visiting guests)..I was ready to use a Dremel Tool to cut the motor housing apart or a crowbar to extract it in pieces but I will give your swivel/palm ratchet/extension setup a try first..You rock, Bruce L.!!
Hey Ralph. Once you get the back screw out, it takes a little wiggling to get it out, but it does come out. Good luck and I hope it helps! Thanks for the comment, It's always nice to hear about one of my videos actually helping people
This video gets a lot of views. Takes a lot of wiggling and some force to get the blower out but nothing silly. If you aren't already, you should make a video of it. I get lots of people asking me to get it out and I tell them what I told you. I could just refer them to your video next time they asked
I have a small socket set with screw driver attachments and a socket connection than bents too 90 degrees, no need to go through adapting bits. Just buy a very small handle socket and screw driver set. I got one from Aldi years ago and it has been so handy over the years. Best $20 I ever spent!
I am trying to remove mine but it will not just drop out. It acts like there is something internal like some seal or weatherstrip between the top of the fan and the housing! Any ideas?
Thank you for posting! That 3rd screw on the blower is terrible. I had to loosen the 4 bolts holding the whole housing, so i could pull the housing away from the wall, to get enough room to put the new fan in without damaging it. Daughter's car lives another day!! Huff
So I have an 06 Santa Fe Sport and recently the fan stopped working on the AC. You can still feel some cold air but barely. Also, once the car has been running 5 to 10 minutes, the fan kicks on with a little more force but not the max. Does this sound like the same issue?
It could be the fan, but it sounds like the resistor for the fan. Here's a video that might be helpful ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sQblTKSiCBs.html
If I check the blower motor outlet and have ground and power does that mean it can't be the temp. control switch? I replaced the switch a few months ago and I'm just trying to rule out that being it. Thanks in advance
Thanks Niamh. I hate it too. I'm not quite as flexible as I once was but I'm actually more flexible than I was a year or two ago. Maybe I should take up yoga! A friend of mine owns a cat cafe here that has "Yoga with Cats" nights, she's always trying to get me to come.
Awesome Bruce 《☆》It seems like Engineers design stuff to make us swear & want to buy more tools or modify the tools We have. I've been without heat in My 98 Dakota for 10 years since the core started leaking but I live in Fl. I'm not going in deep like that unless the a/c quits & needs an evaperator ☻
Thanks BDOG. It certainly does seem that way sometimes. If you don't need the heat, I can't say that I blame you. I did a Jeep Liberty not too long ago that took about eight hours and 250 screws, nuts and bolts to change the heater core. I think I still have a few left over screws from that one lol
Thanks a ton for this video, great info and great tip with the jointed socket adapter! Didnt manage to slide it out though. Ripped out the firewall to get even more clearance, twisted and turned it in all sorts of way with decent force but it just wont.. Protip?
I just did this repair yesterday, the only way to get the blower motor back in is to loosen the black box it goes into and pry it away from the firewall a 1/4" or so then slip the blower motor back in and tighten everything back up. I could not find this little hint anywhere.
Did you solve it? Having the same damn issue. I bought a ratchet with a joint to get the inner screw, however no matter how I twist and turn it, it wont come out.
I just did this repair yesterday, the only way to get the blower motor back in is to loosen the black box it goes into and pry it away from the firewall a 1/4" or so then slip the blower motor back in and tighten everything back up. I could not find this little hint anywhere. 2 screws and 1 bolt on the bottom to loosen the black box.
I just did this repair yesterday, the only way to get the blower motor back in is to loosen the black box it goes into and pry it away from the firewall a 1/4" or so then slip the blower motor back in and tighten everything back up. I could not find this little hint anywhere.
@@caseyniestat3807 There are 2 screws and a bolt you have to undo on the bottom of the box, then pry it away from the about 1/4 of an inch. Then the blower will slip right in. Tighten everything back up and you are done.
This video has been super helpful in telling me I needed to make a DIY tool with the extension and universal and ratchet, but the only thing is...I guess I don't really know how to use a ratchet? I can't make the tool I made loosen a screw. I feel pretty stupid. I won't give up though.
Glad my video was helpful. Go to any auto parts store and ask them any questions you might have, I'm sure they would be more than willing to offer advice
@@BruceLyeg Thanks Bruce. It turns out the screwdriver bit I have taped info the......1/4 inch socket (? Idk the name) turns with the socket. I was able to get it to work in my house on a random screw and not turn without the universal but as I added parts (extension and universal) it just started spinning and wouldn't catch. Idk. I don't feel like the people at the auto parts store can help. Maybe the hardware store. I said I wasn't going to give up but it's very discouraging.
@@BruceLyeg I got the screwdriver bit snug in there again and I can work the ratchet with only the socket and the extension and socket but when I add the universal I just can't get it, it just flops all over the place. What's the trick to actually unscrewing something with the tool I made. It would be comical how the tool 'works' with the extension if I wasn't so frustrated.
Did you get it back in yet? If you pull the carpet back away from the firewall in the foot well, it gives you a little more wiggle room. Its a tight fit but if it comes out it'll go back in
I just did this repair yesterday, the only way to get the blower motor back in is to loosen the black box it goes into and pry it away from the firewall a 1/4" or so then slip the blower motor back in and tighten everything back up. I could not find this little hint anywhere.
Bruce L. I have a set of SO 1/4" drive standard I bought 20 years ago. They are not optional working on Continental and Lycoming aircraft engines. I just bought 3/8" drive metric and standard sets. I will do a video on all 3 sets. The extra length of a u joint and short socket tend to try to twist if much torque is applied.
Bruce L. I have found it odd that the European aircraft I have worked on had a mixture of SAE, metric, and even British Standard. Old Fokker F27s were what I cut my teeth on but there are no civilian ones flying in the US as far as I know. The US Army parachute team has a couple. "Like new SO BS 1/4" drive socket set, available cheap". I bet there are a few F27s in Canada, your aviators tend to be diehards.
